What happens if you wet-sand the Rustoleum hammered gold?
Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Thread
- Thread starter BlueBomber
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What happens if you wet-sand the Rustoleum hammered gold?
softailgarage
Well-known member
What I usually find is the problem is that there is a burr on the shaft, usually caused by the set screw dragging and creating a slight crevis. If you can get to it, try a dremel to remove any burrs.
softailgarage
Well-known member
It creates more work having to repaint it.
The first set, prior to sanding.
Then wet sanding with 3M 600 grit silicone carbide Tri-M-Ite Paper
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ckadams00
Well-known member
Not having much luck with that.
I can't get my head around this: don't know how to push or press off the dial from the back with very little space and a 90-degree angle.
And since the handle is attached through the faceplate to the gearing, I am dead in the water on my resto until I can get this thing off.
Rick M
Banned
Not having much luck with that.
I can't get my head around this: don't know how to push or press off the dial from the back with very little space and a 90-degree angle.
And since the handle is attached through the faceplate to the gearing, I am dead in the water on my resto until I can get this thing off.
I've mostly done old lathes and a few smaller machines, no tablesaws, not very familiar with these 113's and the picture you posted is a dead link. I looked at other 113 saws and am not sure which part you are trying to remove. Is there is no way to get wedges behind the handle or dial? When I have a stuck handle I first try driving it on farther on because that's often easier than removing it, and that oftentimes will break it loose. The old Cman lathe I did had handles and knobs of pot metal so I had to be very careful, but one of them was really stuck on there, 60 years of stiction.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Depending on the saw, I have a few extra handles laying around, if you have to drill out the set screw.
AdrianBoomer
Well-known member
A couple updates on the status of my Atlas 10" HEre is the stand I built. IT is still in Primer but will be painted to match. I wanted to give it the column, art-deco effect. Not sure if I pulled it of, but I like it and the saw is stable. There is as much cast iron on the table as any Unisaw 
tombell572
Well-known member
ckadams-I can't quite visualize the location of the offending handle but if the set screw has created a burr on its shaft due to over tightening and you can reach it with a drill you might be able to drill out the set screw hole and just kiss the shaft using a slightly larger bit. This could eliminate any burr or raised metal, hopefully permitting removal of the handle-then re-tap the handle for the next larger set screw. Just a potential solution offered without actually seeing the problem.
Tom B.
Tom B.
920kip
Well-known member
That stand is great. What material is it made of? Will there be casters?A couple updates on the status of my Atlas 10" HEre is the stand I built. IT is still in Primer but will be painted to match. I wanted to give it the column, art-deco effect. Not sure if I pulled it of, but I like it and the saw is stable. There is as much cast iron on the table as any Unisaw
rickhigginshtbr
Well-known member
Well, think I blew the capacitor in my Model 100, and I'm in the middle of moving... but been keeping an eye on CL for a cheap running saw I can just cut with. Well, I got it for cheap, but it sure as hell isn't cheap. Drove over 200 miles round trip for this beaut. Guy was moving as well and just wanted to dump it, knew he could of gotten more for it. Needed belts and a power cord, and a fence.
A 103.22451 10" Craftsman Cabinet Saw! Date coded 3/58 under the table. Should be painted power bronze by that time, but the gray can stay for now. Eyeing up a late 60's 10"er on CL to take it's fence and higher HP motor. I need to quit buying saws, and then more saws to pillage parts off of it, lol.
A 103.22451 10" Craftsman Cabinet Saw! Date coded 3/58 under the table. Should be painted power bronze by that time, but the gray can stay for now. Eyeing up a late 60's 10"er on CL to take it's fence and higher HP motor. I need to quit buying saws, and then more saws to pillage parts off of it, lol.
AdrianBoomer
Well-known member
I made the stand out of everything I had in the shop LOL.
I used Alaskan yellow cedar for the lower stepped base and Red Cedar for the sides and it is reinforced with very large fir corner posts. The top is a slab of Maple I had laying around. I wanted to use dimensional lumber for this for some stupid reason. Anyhow, other than a switch, this saw is completed now and I am using it. It took me some time to get all the parts and acme thread to build the missing micro-adjuster on the fence.
I love looking at all these saws.
BTW, I am looking for a 1950s C-man 8" (the ubiquitous) Motor mount bracket if anyone has one laying around in their boneyard/rat hole.
I used Alaskan yellow cedar for the lower stepped base and Red Cedar for the sides and it is reinforced with very large fir corner posts. The top is a slab of Maple I had laying around. I wanted to use dimensional lumber for this for some stupid reason. Anyhow, other than a switch, this saw is completed now and I am using it. It took me some time to get all the parts and acme thread to build the missing micro-adjuster on the fence.
I love looking at all these saws.
BTW, I am looking for a 1950s C-man 8" (the ubiquitous) Motor mount bracket if anyone has one laying around in their boneyard/rat hole.
toddmp
Well-known member
A 100 with original stand I have been working on for a while. This has been torn down, de-rusted, primed and painted. Looking for a new motor for it to get her running again (and a pedestal stand!).
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Adrian, if it is the same as the 100 series, I have one around here. Let me find it and shoot you a picture.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'l have to go find the pics of my two 10 Craftsman saws bolted together on a single stand. Makes for a nice wide table when you need it and allows me to have both a cutting and dado blade setup.
I am having a lot more trouble justifying the space they take however. I just don't use a T saw much anymore, and when I do, its the tiny one out back...
BB you are staring 1K posts in the face!
I am having a lot more trouble justifying the space they take however. I just don't use a T saw much anymore, and when I do, its the tiny one out back...
BB you are staring 1K posts in the face!
I needed a motor for a belt sander I'm building. I found a Craftsman table saw model 101.02161 for $10 so I bought it. I put a new cord on the motor and blew out the 70+ years of sawdust, plugged it in and it ran very well. When spinning by hand is sounds like the bearings need some attention. I've been trying to find more info on the motor, it's a Craftsman model 5611D, but no luck on the vintage machine sites. Anyone have knowledge about how this motor comes apart, or where to find more info about it?
Another question. Where do y'all draw the line on restoring a vintage machine? The saw I bought has all of the parts, but it's very rusty. The blade turns freely, but I can't raise it. The tilt function works. The cast iron motor mount is broken. Is there a market for parts for this machine?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike White
Lorena, TX
Another question. Where do y'all draw the line on restoring a vintage machine? The saw I bought has all of the parts, but it's very rusty. The blade turns freely, but I can't raise it. The tilt function works. The cast iron motor mount is broken. Is there a market for parts for this machine?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike White
Lorena, TX
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Rust on the old machines is an easy fix. if it's all there, keep it whole. plenty of damaged machines for the parts market. raising it is probably just accumulated sawdust/pitch in the screw/gear for raising the blade - get some spray cleaner in there, and lube it.
Pics would help, as generally the model numbers aren't memorized...
Pics would help, as generally the model numbers aren't memorized...
Rileysan
Well-known member
My first post here. Once I figure out the rules for picture posting I'll add some.
I started removing some of the rust today to see I I was interested in doing a full restore. I don't think I'm going to get that involved. I got the motor I needed. Will probably let the rest of it go. Although I might keep the top for another project I have in mind.
Mike White
Lorena
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Where is the rust? How are you attacking it?
if on the flat table surfaces, a single edge razor blade does amazingly well. Then there are Electrolysis tanks that are not hard to setup, and work amazingly well. Lots of other options...
Picture posting:
Do this from the "advanced posting" menus; and at step 5 copy it into the URL field after hitting the "postcard" button:
[/IMG]
if on the flat table surfaces, a single edge razor blade does amazingly well. Then there are Electrolysis tanks that are not hard to setup, and work amazingly well. Lots of other options...
Picture posting:
Do this from the "advanced posting" menus; and at step 5 copy it into the URL field after hitting the "postcard" button:
Not that I have a ton of experience but I try to draw the line at buying parts, especially for machines that often cost less than that missing/broken bracket.
That doesnt count accessories if you have a particular function in mind.
Still, dont get into this with profit or even breaking even in mind. Rather look at it as an opportunity to learn as issues crop up. My table saw will be my first actual project for my lathe after I get THAT bought because I need to weld up and turn the arbor shaft, something that is more worth doing to learn from than buying one from ebay for several times the saws cost.
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I bought a 22 year old Delta DP and was able to restore it to very good condition after the PO kept it outside for years. This TS is 76 years old but built like a BSH. Someone else might want to take on restoring it or I might find someone who needs the parts.
Mike White
Lorena, TX
Mike White
Lorena, TX
Empty Pockets
Well-known member
I have an older CM 10" Cast Iron Table Saw from the late 90s. Model is 315.228410. Not quite sure if it qualifies as vintage. I still use it regularly.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
SOLD I picked up a CM table saw model 103.22161, made by King-Seeley.
It came with the CM cast iron stand, which I may use for CM grinders (Block motor style).
Here are a few shots of the saw.
I know it is missing a number of parts, but if anyone in the SE Michigan area wants it for a project or to use as parts, PM me.
It came with the CM cast iron stand, which I may use for CM grinders (Block motor style).
Here are a few shots of the saw.
I know it is missing a number of parts, but if anyone in the SE Michigan area wants it for a project or to use as parts, PM me.
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
Anyone selling a guard with splitter, a splitter, or riving knife that fits the 113.27580?
mysticalflight
Member
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Just picked up a Craftsman 100 today. This thread is going to be my inspiration. I post pics later.
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Ok, my turn to play! I went to habitat for humanity to make some donations today and they had this there ! Was able to get the saw which is a 103.20002 and has a 1959 date on the saw and the 3/4 hp motor! Saw has the miter gauge, extension rods and platform and the stand . Got it all for $40. It does need belts replaced and some general cleaning but I was pretty stoked to get a saw in good shape for a reasonable price. Where do I get belts for it ? Also how do you think I did on price?
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BlueBomber
Well-known member
Smoke: you got a pretty good price! That's a nice example from the "bronze" era of Craftsman tools. Somebody's grandpa is probably smiling down from whatever afterlife you believe in, glad that you rescued it. As for the belts, if you have a user-friendly auto parts store (one manned by people that are willing to do more than just punch buttons on a computer) you could ask them to do a "best match" comparison from the inventory. Other places are farm implement suppliers (TSC, for example).
Good luck!
Good luck!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Smoke: i think you know how well you did on the price so i'll just comment on the saw. i really like that version and another option it has is cast iron wings, but your version would be easier to move around. i also bought one with that exact stand and mine has a 1hp craftsman motor on mine. what size is your motor cause i think most of them come with 1/2?
when i went to pick mine up from another member he tried to move it and broke the lever/handle on the fence so i need a replacement on mine.
nice find and good for you for dropping stuff off at that place to help the charity and so another good soul might find your gifts useful.
once i get a bigger shop space to set up a table saw full time i'd like to put mine inside a workbench sort of like this one. i also want to put a switch on mine if i use it as is like this where i can hit it with a knee to shut it off.
when i went to pick mine up from another member he tried to move it and broke the lever/handle on the fence so i need a replacement on mine.
nice find and good for you for dropping stuff off at that place to help the charity and so another good soul might find your gifts useful.
once i get a bigger shop space to set up a table saw full time i'd like to put mine inside a workbench sort of like this one. i also want to put a switch on mine if i use it as is like this where i can hit it with a knee to shut it off.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Smoke that looks to be the 9" version? Drives yours, if the pic is yours, is the 10" Both are tilting arbor.
Besides the blade size, they used different fence systems.
Smoke can you please shoot a pic of the side where the bar comes out? I'm trying to ID the maker of an earlier TS that used bars for an extended support.
Besides the blade size, they used different fence systems.
Smoke can you please shoot a pic of the side where the bar comes out? I'm trying to ID the maker of an earlier TS that used bars for an extended support.
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
I think it's the 9" but have not measured it yet...They had the saw tagged as a 1957 saw but it is dated 1959 so now I am not 100% confident in their measurements but I will measure it today! I can get more pictures of the side bar area when I am in the garage today! I was looking and the 9" saw blades are somewhat hard to get but amazon has a bunch of them...I checked home depot and did not find any blades that size. As far as the belts, I will take them to my local napa store to match up! Those guys are all old school there and they are a mom and pop store so they know how to do the old school stuff that so many people today don't.
Drives-mine is a 3/4 motor and I think that is enough for this saw since it is a medium duty saw..
All-they also had a small 8" king seeley heritage logo/gray color that was in really good shape but had no motor on it. They wanted $40 for it as well but I almost bought it since it was so clean. Is it worth that?
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Outlawmws- here is how the side rails attach to the table. The rods are threaded inside and you pass the bolts through the table side . The end cap also has holes in it so the rods can pass through for smaller pieces of wood
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Another question...anyone know what size arbor a 9" saw blade is? I want to order one but don't want to get a wrong size!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
5/8" and here you go for the other published specs:
Thanks! I found a manual on the other forum but it did not have a spec sheet. Thanks!
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Rock knocker
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- Aug 14, 2014
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Can't you measure the arbor on the saw? It's probably 1/2", the new blade will likely be 5/8, but bushings are available.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
SS69, Thanks for the side pics. Nope I don't think its related. I finally got the model No confirmed (mine doesn't have a M/N plate...) and its 103, which for the year made (1936), is Central Specialty, a division of K/S who later changed the name to K/S (retaining the 103 M/N) then still later were bought by Emerson, and became M/N 113...
Smokeshow69
Well-known member
I just got my 1959 craftsman power tool catalogue in the mail and there is some really good stuff in there! Lots of accessories for these saws I did not even know existed. Also has a nice assortment of specs for these saws and some really nice cabinet saws and drill presses
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