Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Thread

[Cruzan80]

Yeah, I think I have almost all the accessories for my 10" besides the Miter Hold Down and the powr panel. Three wings, dado throat, regular, fence, fence extension (only one) Hold down kit that attaches to fence, Rod extension like yours, blade guard and pedestal base. Even found some Acme ball casters that should fit so it can roll. The older lever-lock wheel kit they sold to attach to their sheet-metal stands is converted to a vise table for me.

BTW, contacted my friend, will let you know about the status of those wings you are looking for.

 

[jywilli69]

1956 Craftsman 103.20000 manual: http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2729
Nice saw you have. If you upload a picture and how you got the machine on
Vintage Machinery. Org, that is a database of old machinery. Which tells a story of the machine and population. Your saw would be #4 on the database. They would appreciate it.

 

[Smokeshow69]

1956 Craftsman 103.20000 manual: http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2729

Nice saw you have. If you upload a picture and how you got the machine on

Vintage Machinery. Org, that is a database of old machinery. Which tells a story of the machine and population. Your saw would be #4 on the database. They would appreciate it.

Was this directed at me ? Could not tell for sure since no one was quoted or named [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[jywilli69]

Wow, it will be 2 yrs since I have seen this thread which I posted on 6 June 2015. Since then I have added 2 other saws to my collection. The ones pictured in my post, I still have the 1936 Craftsman 8" Bench Saw Model 471. Other 2 I sold. I picked up a 1940 Craftsman 8" Table Saw 101.02143 and a 1954 Craftsman 10" Cabinet Saw 103.27270. These machines I will eventually get fixed up. I know it will take me a while since I will need some parts. the 1940 came with new bearings and a new fabricated Drive Shaft which I need to install and it would be a functioning saw. The paint on it is pretty good shape considering how old it is.

1940 CRAFTSMAN by Jayson Williams, on Flickr

 

[ckadams00]

Nice saw!

 

[jywilli69]

Nice saw!

Thank you Sir.

 

[ckadams00]

When you start to tear into it let me know I learned a lot and have taken mine down to the bolts twice. Be happy to offer any thoughts along the way. It's a great saw.

 

[Outlawmws]

JYW: I have a couple of questions on the fence setup of your 1940 saw with the micrometer adjustable fence:

• How well does that fence lock down? Does it flex, or is it solid?
• does it clamp just at the bar, of does it have s tip clamp like the 103/113 10" saws do?
• How smooth is the movement with the micrometer screw?
• Does the micrometer have a dial scale?

 

[Sawdustmaker]

JYW: I have a couple of questions on the fence setup of your 1940 saw with the micrometer adjustable fence:

• How well does that fence lock down? Does it flex, or is it solid?
• does it clamp just at the bar, of does it have s tip clamp like the 103/113 10" saws do?
• How smooth is the movement with the micrometer screw?
• Does the micrometer have a dial scale?

Think I can answer this as I have the same saw.
(1)Fence locks down well. The chrome knob secures it. Solid. (at least on my saw)
(2)Clamps only at the bar. Does not have a tip clamp.
(3) Micrometer screw is smooth if lubricated. I usually don't use it.
(4) There are inch graduations on top of the bar. The cursor just to the left of the knob can be adjusted. With some tweaking it can be pretty accurate. I usually don't use the scale and measure from the blade to the fence for set ups.

Fence in the photo does not have the Maple attachment. I'll try to get pics of my saw tomorrow and post.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Here are the pics of my Craftsman (ca 1940) Tablesaw. Belonged to my dad. He built the base (original to the saw). From what I've seen in other posts it looks like my dad added on the wings and front extension. Saw is in great shape just needs cleaning and new arbor bearings. Motor needs to be cleaned. Hasn't been used in several years as I bought a Powermatic. Have built more projects with the Craftsman than with the Powermatic. Case in point, the Craftsman is easier to use than the Powermatic.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Here are two more pics that didn't load on the first posting.

 

[Outlawmws]

I see; so with the front extension, you need that maple accessory bar to extend the fence.

Nice saw! And that it was your dads makes it even more special!

I've been looking at the Atlas built saws in the catalogs, and I like what I see. The 8" is a little bigger than my Companion tilt table (without the extensions) and the 9" is near the size of my KS saws. I'd like to find the base 8" complete (mine works good but is missing the fence...) So I'l look for both and see what pops up first... (If anything...)

 

[jywilli69]

Very nice saw you have there Sir.

Here are the pics of my Craftsman (ca 1940) Tablesaw. Belonged to my dad. He built the base (original to the saw). From what I've seen in other posts it looks like my dad added on the wings and front extension. Saw is in great shape just needs cleaning and new arbor bearings. Motor needs to be cleaned. Hasn't been used in several years as I bought a Powermatic. Have built more projects with the Craftsman than with the Powermatic. Case in point, the Craftsman is easier to use than the Powermatic.

 

[jywilli69]

JYW: I have a couple of questions on the fence setup of your 1940 saw with the micrometer adjustable fence:

• How well does that fence lock down? Does it flex, or is it solid?
• does it clamp just at the bar, of does it have s tip clamp like the 103/113 10" saws do?
• How smooth is the movement with the micrometer screw?
• Does the micrometer have a dial scale?

Not really sure. I have yet to do anything with it yet. I am working on a 1936 Craftsman 8" Bench Saw Model # 471.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

I see; so with the front extension, you need that maple accessory bar to extend the fence.

Nice saw! And that it was your dads makes it even more special!

I've been looking at the Atlas built saws in the catalogs, and I like what I see. The 8" is a little bigger than my Companion tilt table (without the extensions) and the 9" is near the size of my KS saws. I'd like to find the base 8" complete (mine works good but is missing the fence...) So I'l look for both and see what pops up first... (If anything...)

Don't know if that maple part of the fence came that way or if my dad added it after he set up the saw. I'm thinking it was an option as there are pre-drilled and tapped holes in the steel fence to attach the maple extension. Works well.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

Very nice saw you have there Sir.

Thank you.

 

[Outlawmws]

All the fences I've seen on vintage saws have a way to attach a sacrificial wood face. This saves blades if you kiss the fence, and allows dado blades to be "burred" in the fence if needed... (Easier for rabbits to set the fence for the depth in that direction)

i would think modern fences would also do this, but I've not paid them any attention.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

All the fences I've seen on vintage saws have a way to attach a sacrificial wood face. This saves blades if you kiss the fence, and allows dado blades to be "burred" in the fence if needed... (Easier for rabbits to set the fence for the depth in that direction)

i would think modern fences would also do this, but I've not paid them any attention.

Hi Outlaw,
Nope modern fences do not do this. Modern fences (for the most part) are covered with HDMW (or something like it) plastic. The user needs to make auxiliary fences that either clamp or saddle over the factory fence. I made a saddle fence for my Powermatic and will also be making a clamp on fence. Can use any type of wood for this, but usually what is used is baltic birch or maple. Attached a few photos. My saw isn't set up right now, but I was able to few pics of the fence.

 

[jywilli69]

Hi Outlaw,
Nope modern fences do not do this. Modern fences (for the most part) are covered with HDMW (or something like it) plastic. The user needs to make auxiliary fences that either clamp or saddle over the factory fence. I made a saddle fence for my Powermatic and will also be making a clamp on fence. Can use any type of wood for this, but usually what is used is baltic birch or maple. Attached a few photos. My saw isn't set up right now, but I was able to few pics of the fence.

That is pretty cool what you did Gene.

 

[Outlawmws]

CDM; you could also remove the plastic and replace with a wood face, No?

 

[Sawdustmaker]

CDM; you could also remove the plastic and replace with a wood face, No?

Yes, I've even thought of that, for wide ripping the HDMW works fine. It's when you do rabbets or something else when you need to bury part of a blade in the fence that the auxiliary fence comes in handy. Often saw my dad clamp a sacrificial fence to the maple fence on the Craftsman saw.

 

[notlob]

Good shape top of the line Craftsman cabinet saw in East SF Bay area - nice buy for $100.

No affiliation yada yada.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/6139377369.html

 

[toddmp]

oh man I woulda' bought that in a heartbeat!

 

[Woodworker63]

Hey all! I'm new to this forum. I'm trying to find answers. I just purchased a Sears/Craftsman 12 in. Table saw #113299132 direct drive. After two days of sanding, and cleaning, I plugged it up and it started turning real slow. It speeded up just slightly. Then I heard a slight pop and it quit. I tried resetting the thermal switch, but it hadn't popped. Now it won't start at all. I checked the capacitors and they read fine.
Any ideas? Also, I can find the capacitors, but other parts like the relay is null and void!

 

[454ragtop]

A month or so ago, I found this one on the side of the road with a "free" sign on it. If it's free it's for me. Late 40's near as I can tell, has a rectangular throat plate versus the more oval shaped throat plate from the 50's. Needed a couple pulleys and a belt, works nice, though the 1/2 HP motor seems a little underpowered.

 

[Sawdustmaker]

A month or so ago, I found this one on the side of the road with a "free" sign on it. If it's free it's for me. Late 40's near as I can tell, has a rectangular throat plate versus the more oval shaped throat plate from the 50's. Needed a couple pulleys and a belt, works nice, though the 1/2 HP motor seems a little underpowered.

Nice side of the road find! Think you are right about it being late 40's. I have my dad's saw (1940) and it has a square throat plate. My dad made a couple of zero clearance throat plates for 1/4" plywood, but that was when plywood was a true 1/4". Still use them. Guess a zero clearance could be made with 1/4" MDF or 1/4" HDMW. Could even add a splitter of some type.

 

[AdrianBoomer]

here are some random Craftsman saws I own. Since the photo bucket thing, I thought I would upload a few. I rebuilt all these and have lots of spare parts etc if anyone needs assistance.

 

[AdrianBoomer]

a couple more shots.

 

[SAA44-40]

Picked this up today. Not exactly sure what I have yet, but should be a fun project.

 

[michaelwolson]

I have two that I would like to restore. A 10"er and an 8"er. The 8" one just needs a thorough cleaning and a new belt and it should be good to go. The 10" one is going to require a total restore.

Best thing was that they were both free. The 10" one came with a bunch of extra stuff. Couple vises, couple miter gauges, etc.

I will get better pictures, but they are kind of on the back burner project wise.

 

[tapered-pin]

I just picked up one of these saws last week! 113.27520 and it starts smoother than my dads craftsman from the late 80s. the bearings are still very tight and all the adjustment wheels turn smoothly. the old man I bought it from took good care of it for the last 40 years.


I'll be using this saw as my full time workhorse, so *blasphemy alert*, I'll be building a modern base for it, replacing the cast extension with an extended tabletop (with router), and throwing a Shop Fox aluma-classic standard length fence on it. (all that will be in a separate thread)..

The new finish on these saws looks great, I'm unsure whether I want to rip it apart and restore the whole thing or just leave that for "next time".

I KNOW that any bearings I put in it couldn't have been made as well as the ones that are in it..
I'll look for a 1.5 HP motor at some point for it, but right now, the 0.75 HP motor will be plenty.

I like how the bottom of the blade assembly has the elongated port, I'll probably fashion a shroud for it and use that as my major dust collection point.

I also picked up the guy's 4" craftsman jointer from the same era, but it's not in as good of shape as the saw is.

 

[SAA44-40]

Can anyone advise what material the miter gauges are made of on these 50’s era saws? And while I’m here, I’ll ask about the best method to clean said mitre gauge. Thanks

 

[Outlawmws]

What part? the slide bar and fasteners are steel, the head either aluminum or pot-metal generally, the knobs if used are probably pot metal, but I've also seen them polish up decently, and I'm not sure Pot metal does that.

 

[SAA44-40]

Thanks Outlaw- pretty sure it’s pot metal. Enjoyable project. So enjoyable I’m picking up a jointer and alien head planer tomorrow...

 

[All]

Yesterday I picked up a King Seeley 8", 3/4HP, 103.23832, mounted on the matching art deco contoured "washing machine legs" stand. Single knob, push-pull depth+tilt arbor control.

Has fence, but what a pathetic fence design! Not geared, not cast, no micrometer adjust, and doesn't grip the table at the motor end. The saw is all original, but I wouldn't hesitate to go forward or backward in generations to retrofit an entirely different fence set up, and welcome any advice or parts in this regard.

Has one cast iron extension wing, mounted on the right, with all rectangular holes (no diagonals). I could use another for the left side, and am actively looking locally, and would welcome any leads on obtaining another wing.

The motor alignment pin has evidence of being sawed off, so I am looking not only for a replacement (factory pin dimensions are 5/16" diameter by 4.5" long), I am also looking for HOW or IF this alignment pin engages with the motor base once it passes through the slot on the vertical tail of the sliding hinge the motor mounts to. I have spent hours looking at photos of similar saws on the OWWM site, and find that people have been quite creative in how they resolve the alignment pin engagement issue... some using long bolts that pass all the way through the motor mount hole, as well has the slot on the hinge. Some have used threaded rods with nuts on either side of the motor mount hinge. Some have retrofitted springs along the pin, which is something I did when I got the saw, before I realized that my pin had been sawed shorter than what it should be. Anyways... still seeking guidance on this guide pin.

Also need a miter gauge, a riving knife, and a blade guard assembly.

 

[bagged89s10]

Yesterday I picked up a King Seeley 8", 3/4HP, 103.23832, mounted on the matching art deco contoured "washing machine legs" stand. Single knob, push-pull depth+tilt arbor control.



Has fence, but what a pathetic fence design! Not geared, not cast, no micrometer adjust, and doesn't grip the table at the motor end. The saw is all original, but I wouldn't hesitate to go forward or backward in generations to retrofit an entirely different fence set up, and welcome any advice or parts in this regard.



Has one cast iron extension wing, mounted on the right, with all rectangular holes (no diagonals). I could use another for the left side, and am actively looking locally, and would welcome any leads on obtaining another wing.



The motor alignment pin has evidence of being sawed off, so I am looking not only for a replacement (factory pin dimensions are 5/16" diameter by 4.5" long), I am also looking for HOW or IF this alignment pin engages with the motor base once it passes through the slot on the vertical tail of the sliding hinge the motor mounts to. I have spent hours looking at photos of similar saws on the OWWM site, and find that people have been quite creative in how they resolve the alignment pin engagement issue... some using long bolts that pass all the way through the motor mount hole, as well has the slot on the hinge. Some have used threaded rods with nuts on either side of the motor mount hinge. Some have retrofitted springs along the pin, which is something I did when I got the saw, before I realized that my pin had been sawed shorter than what it should be. Anyways... still seeking guidance on this guide pin.



Also need a miter gauge, a riving knife, and a blade guard assembly.

Where are he pics? I think I have the same saw.

 

[bagged89s10]

The picture showed up now. That’s a nice saw. Mine is a completely different style

 

[All]

Where are he pics? I think I have the same saw.

Oops... was that your garage that I stole it from?


Actually, the saw belonged to a friend's uncle, and the friend gave it to me because I needed a working table saw at a property remote from my home, and he wanted to see it get used instead of just sitting in his garage.

Because I didn't get it for purposes of restoration, but simply for use, it never occurred to me to take photos. When I get back to that property, I'll take a few photos.

In the meantime, I don't have internet access there, but I do here, so I'm doing all the parts research and learning about the saw while I'm here, before going back.

 

[All]

The picture showed up now. That’s a nice saw. Mine is a completely different style

Not my pics. I haven't taken any.

 

[michaelwolson]

Has one cast iron extension wing, mounted on the right, with all rectangular holes (no diagonals). I could use another for the left side, and am actively looking locally, and would welcome any leads on obtaining another wing.

Also need a miter gauge, a riving knife, and a blade guard assembly.

The wings pop up on ebay for me randomly for a kings ransom. I could locally source two newer table saws for the price I would have to pay for two wings so I am still searching for a set for my 8"er.

I'm assuming you're trying to keep it all original? If you're not the newer 113/315? miter gauges work on the older 103/113 table saws and aside from the handles look pretty much the same at least to me. I have both the older style and newer styles.

The guard you're going to have get lucky and find another member here or on OWWM I believe. I never use them but I do have one for my 10".

Riving knife is going to have to be aftermarket. They never came with any and I still don't have one for any of my saws.

EDIT:
They might have come with a splitter attached to the guard. Not sure though I will have to check when I get home for my 10". I'm not sure if that's what you were looking for though.