Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Thread

[shoot summ]

Funny I haven't seen this thread before, very cool!

We have had a number of older Table saws, Cman, and others show up for sale around here lately, prices are good, makes me want to start a collection...

 

[Michigan Mike]

CKS 1955 you confirmed my suspicion about the arbor housing. Do you have an opinion on the different blade height adjustment mechanisims ? Is one better than the other?

 

[Outlawmws]

Laf, I'm not sure that extension even goes with that table saw.

The fence guide on the back edge in the pic, table base, and how the table is mounted says its probably a KS tilting arbor, and the fence guide is the 10" style, but, the KS 10" saws never had the holes needed for that extension that I can recall (sold both of mine a couple years back)

The 1935/6 7" tilting arbor DID have a similar fence extension, with a lip to support the edge of the material, but the bars were only 1/2"

So that extension may not be Sears at all?

CKS, I can't find the reference you mention in the 59 catalog. (I don't have the 60...)

 

[Cruzan80]

I did have one of the sliding extensions. Able to mount side or back (back interfered with some fence positions). Was an accessory, forget years.

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[CKS1955]

CKS, I can't find the reference you mention in the 59 catalog. (I don't have the 60...)

I have attached a picture from page 12 of the 1959/60 catalog. Craftsman did not make a catalog for 1958 nor individual catalog for 1959 and 1960.

Jay

 

[CKS1955]

...Do you have an opinion on the different blade height adjustment mechanisims ? Is one better than the other?

No, I have not heard complaints about either the earlier one with the depth dial rack nor the later ones where the depth rack is part of the casting for the arbor housing. The later design has less parts. Interesting note about how parts changed, my Craftsman 10” bench model table saw 113.27521 has cast iron trunnions versus cast aluminum. The 113.27520 or 113.27521 wasn’t exclusively cast iron trunnions, because the more common cast aluminum is found on these models as well.

Jay

 

[Outlawmws]

Interesting that the split year catalog had that version, but the 59 did not:

and I have the '59 catalog in PDF:

 

[Michigan Mike]

Thank you CKS . You have given me something else to check out. I will check to see if the parts saw 113 27520 has iron or aluminum trunnions.

 

[CKS1955]

Interesting that the split year catalog had that version, but the 59 did not:

and I have the '59 catalog in PDF:

I always thought there was just the 1959/60 catalog. Would you consider posting your PDF at http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=222&tab=3 ?

Jay

 

[Outlawmws]

I picked it up off of Rose tools - not sure they would be happy about re-posting it.

 

[whateg01]

Curious if anyone has one of these sliding extensions?
Pic from CL:

<image removed>

Ad says it is a 7" saw? I just got one with some Craftsman 100 parts and have not seen one before. Just curious if they were sold separately or came with specific models. Can't seem to find anything on them.

I may have, but not sure. I know one of my saws had an extension, and it was something like that, but might not be the same. I think I have a 7" or 8", 9", and a couple 10" saws. (The ad said 8" saw, but it had a 7-1/4" blade in it and not enough space for an 8" as I recall.) I think that the smaller saws are in my storage unit, so I will try to remember to look when I get over there again. Are you wanting another? Or just info?


Dave

 

[lafester]

The catalog listing was plenty and was able to find the manual. I just didn't know if it was Craftsman and what vintage.

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[drivesitfar]

ALL: if any of you members are looking for one of these great old saws i'm moving my shop/storage and I think I have 5 of these in various condition that i'm going to sell soon if you can't find one send me a PM. I might put an ad in the classifieds, but thought i'd throw out a reminder to all of you that love these old saws first.

we decided to stay and not move for another 10 years hence my woodshop or workspace will not be big enough for more than one of these cool old tablesaws.

 

[MayerMR]

ALL: if any of you members are looking for one of these great old saws i'm moving my shop/storage and I think I have 5 of these in various condition that i'm going to sell soon if you can't find one send me a PM. I might put an ad in the classifieds, but thought i'd throw out a reminder to all of you that love these old saws first.

we decided to stay and not move for another 10 years hence my woodshop or workspace will not be big enough for more than one of these cool old tablesaws.

You don't happen to have any of the oddball 19" extension wings for the old Walker-Turner built ones, do you?

 

[drivesitfar]

Mayer: i'm not certain what the size of the extensions are, but I have more than a few here and there and not sure exactly what size or how many. are you heading up my way cause shipping might be spendy unless you maybe added a vise or two in the deal to make shipping costs reasonable.

actually not sure how i'd ship a cast iron wing so it wouldn't have to shippers breaking it.

do you have an exact dimensions and/or pictures of the wing you are looking for?

 

[bagged89s10]

I am getting ready to make some upgrades to my saw. I recently picked up a small dust collector which I will be plumbing to the cabinet to increase dust collection. I am also going to add some type of over arm dust collection such as this one from Justin Depew.
https://www.justindepewdesign.com/single-post/2018/01/18/Over-Arm-Dust-Collection-for-the-Table-Saw


I also want to upgrade the fence to a biesemeyer style fence. I’ve decided to use the John Heisz wooden fence to keep material costs down.
https://ibuildit.ca/plans/wooden-table-saw-fence/

The other thing I want to add is a riving knife. Has anyone added one and can you share how you attached it? Thanks

has anyone added a riving knife to one of these saws.

 

[MayerMR]

Mayer: i'm not certain what the size of the extensions are, but I have more than a few here and there and not sure exactly what size or how many. are you heading up my way cause shipping might be spendy unless you maybe added a vise or two in the deal to make shipping costs reasonable.

actually not sure how i'd ship a cast iron wing so it wouldn't have to shippers breaking it.

do you have an exact dimensions and/or pictures of the wing you are looking for?

Hey Drives, sorry for the delayed response on this one. Yeah I think shipping might be painful, but if you have them I'd be extremely tempted nonetheless. I've been looking for them for years now.

I'm trying to recall the dimensions of them exactly, but I believe they are 19"x6-8". They were meant for this version of the saw, made by Walker-Turner, for Craftsman:
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=10898
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=15405

They can be seen on Page 6 of this 1936 Catalog!
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2956.pdf

Also looking for the precision fence adjuster that hangs off the right of the fence adjustment that you can see in one of the pics...

Thanks for looking!

-Matt

 

[drivesitfar]

Mayer: sorry I doubt I've got what you need cause all my old table saws are either Heritage or Crowntop versions. I do have an old Walker Turner that I'm hoping to restore some day. that said I have a lot of stuff so maybe something walked into my shop or storage that i forgot about and i'll let you know.

I was going to keep the original craftsman table saw stand for one of my old Heritage table saws, but I offered it to a member that I know pretty well and if he can pick it up before the end of the month he'll get to add it to his growing Craftsman family.

I hear from a lot of old woodworkers that these old saws were maybe not very safe or was that because they didn't use feather boards, safety methods and gear or do tell?

of course i'd love to have a SAWSTOP find it's way into my new woodshop and wrap vintage stuff all around the shop to keep it's shine from blinding me, but I still like OLD TOOLS.

cheers

 

[CKS1955]

has anyone added a riving knife to one of these saws.

How did you adapt that rear roller to fit the table saw?

Jay

 

[bagged89s10]

has anyone added a riving knife to one of these saws.



How did you adapt that rear roller to fit the table saw?



Jay

it’s a craftsman accessory. I used to think it was custom but it’s made for the saw. i’ll try to take pictures of it later.

 

[Outlawmws]

The Riving blade is a fairly easy thing to make. The "floating" blade guard is the tricky part...

 

[MayerMR]

Mayer: sorry I doubt I've got what you need cause all my old table saws are either Heritage or Crowntop versions. I do have an old Walker Turner that I'm hoping to restore some day. that said I have a lot of stuff so maybe something walked into my shop or storage that i forgot about and i'll let you know.

I was going to keep the original craftsman table saw stand for one of my old Heritage table saws, but I offered it to a member that I know pretty well and if he can pick it up before the end of the month he'll get to add it to his growing Craftsman family.

I hear from a lot of old woodworkers that these old saws were maybe not very safe or was that because they didn't use feather boards, safety methods and gear or do tell?

of course i'd love to have a SAWSTOP find it's way into my new woodshop and wrap vintage stuff all around the shop to keep it's shine from blinding me, but I still like OLD TOOLS.

cheers

No worries Drives! Regarding your question about using these saws; my 8" Craftsman from the 1930's is a wonderful saw and my primary table saw. Granted I don't use it constantly, day in and day out, but for the DIY'er and Project-type guy that I am, I love it. I don't find it to be any less safe than any other table saw that I've used.

it’s a craftsman accessory. I used to think it was custom but it’s made for the saw. i’ll try to take pictures of it later.

Based on your image below, mine had one, but I found it to be annoying, so I took it off. It's not as safe without the blade guard, but it is safer than when I had it installed because the metal blade/bracket kept getting caught in the kerf and pulling up the guard anyway. Anyway, I use it without the guard now.

 

[Outlawmws]

Mayer, if the R blade was catching, you needed to adjust it and maybe sort of sharpen it so it had less chance of catching. Maybe a shim or so in the right spot?

Also, carbide blades generally have a wider kerf and that could have helped.

 

[Outlawmws]

WRT safety, Yeah a LOT of guys in the 30's, 40's and 50's lost fingers and thumbs to power tools. I believe it was a matter of carelessness, sloppy work habits, forcing things, and just a less than decent respect of what the spinning blades can do.

It was fairly common for me as a child to see guys missing fingers. Other contributing factors could have been drinking (much bigger problem back then...), and smoking on the "job". (split attention...) Or maybe some lost them in the War (WWII)

Almost ALL my floor tools are vintage and near antique in some cases. I treat them with R E S P E C T... (Knocks on wood) and I have all my digits still. A couple of scars? Sure, but NOT from floor power tools... after selling 4 table saws I'm back up to 2 smaller both from the 30's, (one tilting table) 5 or six RAS, still have 3, WAY too many Drill presses, (only sold one so far) Vertical mill, H mil, 3 metal lathes, a couple three wood lathes, Band saws, chop saws, mitering saws, abrasive cut off saw, Grinders, both bench and hand held, routers, (routers give me the willies) router tables (less so) belt and strip sanders, so it hasn't been for lack of opportunity...

 

[MayerMR]

Mayer, if the R blade was catching, you needed to adjust it and maybe sort of sharpen it so it had less chance of catching. Maybe a shim or so in the right spot?

Also, carbide blades generally have a wider kerf and that could have helped.

That's a very fair point that I hadn't considered before, but you are right, that blade was marketed as thin-kerf, so that very well may be why it was catching. Also, looking back at the photos I posted, I realized that maybe that lower bolt should be tight rather than loose on the bracket, which would help prevent the lifting...hmm.

WRT safety, Yeah a LOT of guys in the 30's, 40's and 50's lost fingers and thumbs to power tools. I believe it was a matter of carelessness, sloppy work habits, forcing things, and just a less than decent respect of what the spinning blades can do.

It was fairly common for me as a child to see guys missing fingers. Other contributing factors could have been drinking (much bigger problem back then...), and smoking on the "job". (split attention...) Or maybe some lost them in the War (WWII)

Almost ALL my floor tools are vintage and near antique in some cases. I treat them with R E S P E C T... (Knocks on wood) and I have all my digits still. A couple of scars? Sure, but NOT from floor power tools... after selling 4 table saws I'm back up to 2 smaller both from the 30's, (one tilting table) 5 or six RAS, still have 3, WAY too many Drill presses, (only sold one so far) Vertical mill, H mil, 3 metal lathes, a couple three wood lathes, Band saws, chop saws, mitering saws, abrasive cut off saw, Grinders, both bench and hand held, routers, (routers give me the willies) router tables (less so) belt and strip sanders, so it hasn't been for lack of opportunity...

I think you are probably right here too. I'm a relatively young guy (early-30s) but nearly every power tool in my shop was made in the 30-40s. Sure they lack some of the safety features that today's tools have, but I think there is just a lot more focus on training and personal safety today than there used to be.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Re: Old tool safety. Like OTG, I too grew up surrounded by guys missing all or part of at least one finger (including my Dad). I agree that it had to have been user negligence, not the fault of the tool. My newest stationary tool is a 57 Rockwell 12-14 table saw that I run with a riving knife but no blade guard. I look at power tools like I look at firearms. Don't want a gun to go off? Don't depress the trigger. Don't want a tool to take a finger? Don't give your finger to a tool. I think a lot of today's safety features are born of the tendency of society these days to file lawsuits. SawStop saws are nice but God forbid OSHA every make them or a similar product mandatory on job sites. Common sense is the best safety.

 

[CKS1955]

it’s a craftsman accessory. I used to think it was custom but it’s made for the saw. i’ll try to take pictures of it later.

I just realized your saw is the 8" model with 22" deep by 18" wide top, where as the 10" is 27" deep by 20" wide top. That roller was made for the 8" model with 20" deep by 17" wide top.

Jay

 

[bagged89s10]

I just realized your saw is the 8" model with 22" deep by 18" wide top, where as the 10" is 27" deep by 20" wide top. That roller was made for the 8" model with 20" deep by 17" wide top.



Jay

yea mine is the 8” model and the previous owner modified it to fit 10” blades.

 

[BlueBomber]

Yeah, I try to always, always, always be aware of where my hands, fingers, and even feet are when using the power tools. Feet because of stance and balance.

 

[bagged89s10]

No worries Drives! Regarding your question about using these saws; my 8" Craftsman from the 1930's is a wonderful saw and my primary table saw. Granted I don't use it constantly, day in and day out, but for the DIY'er and Project-type guy that I am, I love it. I don't find it to be any less safe than any other table saw that I've used.

Based on your image below, mine had one, but I found it to be annoying, so I took it off. It's not as safe without the blade guard, but it is safer than when I had it installed because the metal blade/bracket kept getting caught in the kerf and pulling up the guard anyway. Anyway, I use it without the guard now.

is that a walker turner or atlas blade guard?

 

[MayerMR]

is that a walker turner or atlas blade guard?

OEM Walker-Turner

 

[bagged89s10]

OEM Walker-Turner

ok I saw one on a walker turner but then searched and saw some listed as atlas.

 

[David M]

got this the other day was rusted up but got it running

 

[exmaxima1]

got this the other day was rusted up but got it running

I had the saw when I was a kid. If you manage to find some wings that fit, and get a decent fence (don't even bother trying to find an original), and source an affordable quality blade--Freud, Forrest, etc--you will be very happy with its precision.

 

[David M]

I got 2 of the wings cast iron I put them both on the right side so I can get 2 ft cut for full sheets of plywood. Love the saw but it dose need a new fence.

 

[misterbill]

I have a 103.22160 that I use infrequently. I am in need of a new blade to rip some plywood. Is there any place that sells blades with a 1/2" bore or does everyone put a bushing in a modern 5/8" bore blade?

TIA,

Bill

 

[Outlawmws]

I've done both, very recently, but I have some older blades with the smaller holes.

My "Dado stack" (3 identical carbide tipped blades) has a bushing I made that catches all three blades, (all newer, all 5/8") you just want to be sure the length of the bushing is slightly thinner than the blade at the hole...

 

[jboehm]

Has anyone made one of these old saws in to a portable job-site saw? I love vintage equipment, but I need portability,

 

[Outlawmws]

What capacity do you need? These are very heavy compared to the average modern portable. if you can get by with a smaller lighter saw it's doable.

Go back far enough and you get into the tilting table saws, and is that an issue? (will you need to make a beveled cut? - can be done but it's a hassle...)

Do you plan on just ripping or is this for sheet stock? small table don't do that well..

Let the use define the saw...

 

[jboehm]

Basic table saw use, rip, miter cuts, etc. small projects for repairs. No cabinet construction or anything technical.


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