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Vintage S-K Tools

d42jeep

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While on the topic of beaver tails, here is a 1/2" Artisan, a Brazil ratchet produced for Gambles:

IMG_4430.jpgIMG_4431.jpg

And here is a somewhat strange one. It appears to be a Brazil 4070, but it carries no markings whatsoever! I wonder what the story was behind this one:


IMG_4432.jpgIMG_4433.jpg

Those were usually unmarked, came in generic chrome alloy sets.
Mine are both conventionally marked but in the early days Sherman Klove did a ton of contract work for others. Many of their early and wartime tools are totally unmarked. Sometimes doing a search for unbranded or unmarked tools will turn up early S-K drive tools. IMG_3689.jpeg
One of these was taken apart and reassembled backwards. IMG_5948.jpeg
-Don
 
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MAD

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Here is an SK short metric box wrench set in the recessed panel style of Lectrolite/ Tru-Fit. I suspect that SK may have only offered this style wrench to fill government contracts. I have seen this metric set in pouches with the NSN 5120-00-103-9782 number, but not in catalogs. I have also seen mixed sets of these and newer flat panel style short box wrenches with the same stock number on the pouch, so perhaps SK used the old tooling as a transition to compete on the contract until they got the newer wrench style into production. I'm not sure how old these are, but the NSN number was created in 1972. I also have Duro-Indestro and Pro America short metric box end wrench sets likely produced to satisfy the same government specification.

The SK wrenches are similar to the Dunlap wrench I posted earlier, but with a higher level of finish. They are nicely polished except inside the recessed panels, but not as smooth as the late production Superchrome tools. The 13mm x 14mm wrench matches the dimensions of the Dunlap 1/2" x 9/16" wrench (other than the openings).
sk1.JPGsk4.JPGsk3.JPG
 
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d42jeep

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Since I had some Christmas eBay card money to use up, I decided to put together this pre or early war 1/2” drive set. When the partial set arrived I was pleasantly surprised to find that most of the sockets were either unused or very lightly used with only two being postwar. IMG_5940.jpegI went through my spares and picked out a couple to replace the postwar ones. IMG_5946.jpegIMG_5941.jpegIMG_5943.jpeg
After completing the sockets, I picked out a Pat Pend ratchet for the set. IMG_5951.jpeg
I found the missing correct 17” flex handle. IMG_5974.jpegIMG_5973.jpeg
Now just the crossbar is missing. I believe this set was made in late 1941 right after the socket name change from S-K Chrome. IMG_9571.jpegIMG_9573.jpegIMG_9572.jpeg-Don
 

d42jeep

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This partial 4347 set came from an eBay seller in San Rafael, CA. I offered to pick it up to avoid the seller having to ship it but it came in the mail anyway. IMG_6273.jpeg
I would date the set at around 1956. IMG_9711.jpeg
I’ve cleaned up the box and sockets a bit. The S-K sockets included all seem to be original to the set. I gathered the missing sockets up from my spares along with a nicer speeder, the missing extensions and an appropriate ratchet. IMG_6294.jpegIMG_6295.jpeg
I borrowed a flex handle and a crossbar from an Artisan set for pictures but still need to source those and a sliding tee to complete the set. The 1/4” drive set needs a flex handle that goes with a smaller diameter crossbar and two less small sockets to be correct for the set. IMG_6324.jpegIMG_6326.jpeg
-Don
 

d42jeep

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After a deep dig through my S-K boxes today, I came up with the pieces to complete the set. IMG_6331.jpegIMG_6333.jpeg
Along with the sliding tee I found another ratchet that was a better visual match to the rest of the set. The 1/4” drive set now matches the catalog image as well. It is interesting to see that the set is so similar to the one offered in 1949. IMG_9710.jpeg
-Don
 
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BigMike782

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My dad sold S-K and I have a handful of the steel hinged boxes. Sadly back in the day they were "just metal boxes" and most have been repainted but I do have a couple that are still in their original green.
I don't have much in the way of tools. My favorite 1/4" ratchet was an S-K but it kept falling apart and I replaced it with a SnapOn.
 

Cruzan80

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Anyone know when the SK started putting the numbers on the jaws of the combos? I thought it was during the Wayne era, but just got some that didn't have any markings on the jaws. Will post comparison pics later.
 

d42jeep

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I can’t pin it down exactly but in the overall timeframe of S-K, I would say it’s fairly recent. I have several of them, all found at sales. IMG_3285.jpegIMG_3286.jpegIMG_3648.jpeg
A quick catalog check shows the additional sizes in 1983 but they aren’t shown in 1977.IMG_9759.jpeg
IMG_9758.jpeg-Don
 
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genog

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A nice Seller at the Flea Market had some good quality tools....

I bought a nice little Snap-On OEXM8 8mm combo wrench from him
Hey, I can use that.
I'll add it to my Snappy Metrics....

Then.... I noticed that he had some more nice tools.....I spotted green handles
I have plenty of Diamond nippers, cutters, pliers, etc...
but, I took a peek at them anyway

Hey.....they're SK
Made by Diamond, perhaps?
Sure looks like it.....

Even though I have more than enough......plenty of diagonal cutters, linesman pliers, and nippers (I don't have little straight nippers like this one) so I bought them anyway

sk1.jpg
 
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Beerhippie

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sk1.jpg
I have the exact same multi-bit screwdriver--but blue and labeled for Cornwell.
 

Shelbylex

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I had an addition to my slowly growing collection (this is to slowly complete 6700 vs 6702 set). I think I overpaid for it, but went for it given 21/32, 25/32 and especially 31/32 socket

Don - THANK YOU for the education on relative rarity of **/32 sockets. Your help is greatly appreciated!!!

SK Wayne 5/8
S-K 21/32
S-K 11/16
S-K 3/4
S-K 25/32
S-K Chrome 13/16
S-K 7/8
S-K 15/16
S-K 31/32
S-K Wayne 1"
S-K 1 1/16

Addendum - this is after cleaning them up in Evaporust and with a wire brush

SK_Dec29.JPG
 
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Oldtuleguy

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Here's some ww2 era stuff

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d42jeep

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I like that display. Those universal sets are pretty rare. I found some interesting items on Saturday at an estate sale. The shorter 3/8” drive S-K spark plug socket is early, the longer 1/2” drive version is a little newer. IMG_6993.jpegIMG_4353.jpeg
At the same sale I found this lightly used 8 point Chrome Alloy (Brazil) socket. IMG_6964.jpegIMG_6965.jpegIMG_6966.jpeg
I added it to the Brazil box with the others. IMG_6967.jpeg
-Don
 

jmarkwolf

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I bought this 1/4" drive set at the local hardware store in 1971. Still have it and use it regularly. The Jensen ratchet made it into the box mistakenly but I still have the original ratchet.

IIRC the universal was not in the original set, but a long extension was. I'm sure I still have that also.

The blow molded organizer has been disintegrating for years and the parts rattle around in the box now, makes me crazy.

Bonus points to anyone that can point me to a 3D printed organizer to fit the box. May have to join the world pf 3D CAD and printing.

SK_socket_set.jpg
 
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Outlawmws

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Bonus points to anyone that can point me to a 3D printed organizer to fit the box. May have to join the world pf 3D CAD and printing.

Positive I've seen someone do just that, - not sure if it was for this box. a lot of 3D printed stuff on Eprey, and there are sites for downloading the models for free.

Ir you can find the 3D model - libraries are starting to provide 3D printing these days.
 

d42jeep

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People have made red ones for the Craftsman sets where they are almost always broken. I haven’t seen one offered yet that I would purchase.IMG_7506.jpeg
-Don
 

RTM

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Doesn't anyone have a vacuum-former anymore? That's how the originals were made. A foot-square would be plenty for these.
I’ve thought about making one, using a shop Vaal and vacuum pump in tandem, but free time and energy run away from me.
 

Beerhippie

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I’ve thought about making one, using a shop Vaal and vacuum pump in tandem, but free time and energy run away from me.
My father had a 4'X 8' vacuum-former in the basement when I was growing up. It just used a cheap vacuum cleaner for suction--it doesn't take much. Vacuum pump would be massive overkill.
 

Outlawmws

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Doesn't anyone have a vacuum-former anymore? That's how the originals were made. A foot-square would be plenty for these.

I just saw an original Vacu-form toy, in the box recently at a flea market. I was tempted...

but those are very limited in size, maybe 3X3 or 4X4 IIR (One of my childhood friends had one)
 
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Beerhippie

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I just saw an original Vacu-form toy, in the box recently at a flea market. I was tempting...

but those are very limited in size, maybe 3X3 or 4X4 IIR (One of my childhood friends had one)
It's a dead simple device. A frame to hold the plastic sheet, mounted on dowels so it can be raised and lowered, a heater large enough to uniformly heat the sheet up to... I don't recall, but not all that hot, and a box with an outlet for the vacuum cleaner--shop vac would be fine--and a perforated surface for the mold. The molds can be made from any number of things, and smaller ones don't need venting. 3-D printed molds would be ideal. We used to use a lot carved out of styrofoam. As the sheet is heated but not the mold, they still work.

For those socket sets, all one would need is one good liner for each design. Hit it with mold release, fill it with resin and you have your mold. Non-destructive of the original.

If I had anywhere to put one, I'd build one, if for no other reason than to make repro parts for old Coleman coolers--like the ice box and butter tray.
 

RTM

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I just saw an original Vacu-form toy, in the box recently at a flea market. I was tempting...

but those are very limited in size, maybe 3X3 or 4X4 IIR (One of my childhood friends had one)
Our neighbor had one, 3x3" sounds right. So does burning my fingers on his 'pour liquid into a heated mold" toy to make rubber bugs.

It's a dead simple device. A frame to hold the plastic sheet, mounted on dowels so it can be raised and lowered, a heater large enough to uniformly heat the sheet up to... I don't recall, but not all that hot, and a box with an outlet for the vacuum cleaner--shop vac would be fine--and a perforated surface for the mold
Co worker made one in college, not that long ago. He said new plastics can be warmed in a toaster oven. Using the vacuum pump was to compensate for thicker films and cooler temps he suggested.

I'm trying to come up with an easier way to make the molds, can't we just line up all the tools, and **** the plastic down over them😆, with a perimeter the size of the box?

Someone suggested a down draft table as the base, but seemed a bit off (too big a pattern of hole density) per another's comment. I have various perforated substances available.
 

Beerhippie

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Our neighbor had one, 3x3" sounds right. So does burning my fingers on his 'pour liquid into a heated mold" toy to make rubber bugs.


Co worker made one in college, not that long ago. He said new plastics can be warmed in a toaster oven. Using the vacuum pump was to compensate for thicker films and cooler temps he suggested.

I'm trying to come up with an easier way to make the molds, can't we just line up all the tools, and **** the plastic down over them😆, with a perimeter the size of the box?

Someone suggested a down draft table as the base, but seemed a bit off (too big a pattern of hole density) per another's comment. I have various perforated substances available.
My father's just used a piece of perf board (pegboard). An old air hockey table would be dandy.
 

Cruzan80

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I'm trying to come up with an easier way to make the molds,
3d printing the molds would be fairly easy. The "issue" comes from layer lines, and the smoothness of the top, compared to vac forming. Not sure how smooth the molds need to be.
 

Beerhippie

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3d printing the molds would be fairly easy. The "issue" comes from layer lines, and the smoothness of the top, compared to vac forming. Not sure how smooth the molds need to be.
Depends on whether it's a positive or negative mold, and how thick the material being vacuum-formed is. The thinner, the more small irregularities will "telegraph" through.

Seems I've been seeing some very smooth 3-D prints lately. It also seems like some paint or filler would even things out.
 

Cruzan80

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Yes, there are ways to smooth out the prints, either during or afterwards. Just depends on how much work people want to do.
 

jmarkwolf

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Took a fresh pic of my 54yr old SK 1/4in set with all the correct pieces as far as I can remember. The thing is that all the sockets are contained with semi-circular constraints (see pic below). This has always kept them from rattling around in the box. I'd like to recreate it with a 3D printed tray insert.

I'm finding numerous CAD files from which Stanley socket set inserts can be printed to fit stock tray, but not SK, at least my SK tray.
 

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d42jeep

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I saw this fractional rack in an eBay listing that I hadn’t seen before. It looks like a shorter version of the popular metric socket rack.
IMG_7044.jpeg
I went through my more modern spares and added sockets.IMG_7045.jpegIMG_7052.jpegIMG_7053.jpeg
A little varied in lengths but all the listed sizes are included. IMG_7051.jpeg
-Don
 
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