Walker 93632 Jack Rebuild

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Well,

My buddy asked for his vent cap back (mine broke off) and the jack was starting to leak down so a PM was sent to Hiball for a Walker 93632 kit and vent cap. It came in yesterday (thanks Steve...) so I thought this would be a good Saturday morning project.

I don't know if you guys would be interested or not but thought I would add this in case anyone else wanted to know how this series of Walker jack comes apart.

The jack....

Implements of destruction and partially disassembled. All you need to do on this jack to get the bottle out is remove the 4 side bolts and then loosen the nuts on each side of the lift arm pivot.

Bottle jack free of the frame and the fun can start.

Pump assembly removed from the jack and partially disassembled as well as the release assembly.

Disassembled pump assembly.

Completely torn apart pump assembly. Just take your time when driving the retaining pin out and everything should go fine.

Next up was the ram but I did not have a homemade socket for this particular tank nut. I usually make one from schedule 80 or 120 pipe, a piece of plate and a nut welded to it but this time I decided to cheat. The local bargain tool store had some VERY cheap Chinese Budd sockets on sale so what the hell... 15 minutes with a cutoff wheel, a little file work to make it fit and a little bit of impacting with the MG725 and presto.

Tank nut loose in 5 seconds.....

Main ram and reservoir pulled.

Easy to spot the problem with this one. The main seal is ripped from the center section along half of its diameter.

Almost forgot the release valve. It should have been removed when I pulled the release assembly out. It's tough getting old and forgetting things...

Next up are the pressure and safety valves under these expansion plugs. I just center punch them and then pop them out.

Here they are removed and ready to start with the valves. The valve on the left is the safety valve and the one on the right is the pressure/suction valve.

First up is the safety valve. NOTE !!!!! make sure you look at the location the screw is at and then TIGHTEN and count the total amount of turns until it bottoms out. This way you can get the jack back to where it was (+/-). In this case 1 1/2 turns was the magic number. The valve is to the left, next is the spring and cup and then the adjustment screw.

Next up is the pressure and suction valve. This screw will take a LOT to break it loose. Get your big screwdrivers out with a bolster and wrench. You WILL need them. From left to right we have the suction valve, suction spacer, discharge valve, discharge spacer, gasket and high pressure plug.

Just for grins, I removed the gallery plug that is located under one of the side bolts holding the pump in the jack frame. I just like to make sure that everything is nice and clean before starting to put it back together.

One thing that you will need on most of these rebuilds is a GOOD set of mini picks. The best that I have found so far are these little Snap-on ones but make sure yours are tough and sharp.

That's it for a complete teardown of the jack. Now I just need to find the time this weekend to clean it all up and re-assemble the little ******. If you guys want me to take photos on putting Humpty Dumpty back together again, just let me know.

 

[billymade]

Heck yeah.... keep the pics coming! I love autopsies of all sorts; this kinda info is helpful to the community at large! Thanks!

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Got told to quit playing around and put it back together. We have some company coming over.... I did get it back together a few minutes ago:

No problem taking both front wheels on the Pilot off of the ground. The assembly is the easy part, just take off each seal on the way back and replace it. Now I just need to clean up in the garage before they get here......

 

[Hiball]

Looks Good Dave I can promise you that your New Vent cap wont break. LOL

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Steve,

With it being solid brass, I doubt that it ever breaks. I never did figure out why they went to those plastic vents... By the way, this is what is left of the "U" cup seal. Other than this one, this rest looked to be OK.

One thing I do need to mention, when you install the expansion covers over the pressure/suction valve and the safety valve, install them with the "crown" to the outside, seat them all of the way into the jack and then use a 3/8 or so punch and "flatten" the crown to seat them into the bore.

 

[Hiball]

One thing I do need to mention, when you install the expansion covers over the pressure/suction valve and the safety valve, install them with the "crown" to the outside, seat them all of the way into the jack and then use a 3/8 or so punch and "flatten" the crown to seat them into the bore.

Yep.. Crown up and I use 2 ball peen hammers. I sit the 1st hammer ball side down and then useing the second hammer i Give it a Couple Whacks. It doesnt take much to get a clean fit.

 

[CRTDI]

Thanks for taking the time to post pics. Nice Work.

 

[midnightcruise]

Great doc... Thanks for taking the time to post this!

 

[Cacti]

Thanks for posting. I think I have to rebuild my 93632? I added jack fluid but can't get the housing to lift (the jack has set idle for 20-years). Does the rebuild kit require the same amount of breakdown as you have noted?

Cacti

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Cacti,

More than likely your "U" cup seal is bad but to be honest about it, it only takes an hour or two to tear down and about that to put back together (without any problems). You might need to make a tank nut socket similar to mine to get it apart but other than that, most guys on this board will have the other tools that are used.

The kit will have all of the other seals in the jack so why not replace them while you are in there and have it apart? That way you have new seals, new fluid, a clean jack and it will last another 20 years or more. If you replace all of the seals, the kit will also include the steel "ball" valves also so you will need to break it down as shown if you replace them.

 

[mrbelvedere]

great thread, GeorgiaHybrid, insight into what I'm in for, on a bit smaller scale!

great pics and info on things to look out for!

should I say I'm a GA hybrid too? Grew up in SE GA, 'immigrated' to CA, now on my way back to GA, probably w/in the next six months.

peace...mrb

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Glad you liked the thread and may I be one of the first to welcome you back to the great state of Georgia.

I take it you are from the Savannah area?

 

[mrbelvedere]

I grew up in Hinesville, just a bit south of Sav. Brother & sister still there. Dad retired there after his A/F career.

I'll be going back to the same area, maybe not Hinesville, but close. Hinesville has changed a little too much. Funny how I left for greener pastures near 30 years ago, and how green the old pastures seem now.

And yes, my big jack will be coming with!

 

[Cacti]

Thanks.

Cacti

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Talk about a small world,, I was born at Wright Pat AFB outside of Dayton, OH and my sister at Hunter AFB in Savannah. Lived outside of town near the Ogeechee river back then. Dad retired from the USAF back in 69 and we moved back to this area. In case your wondering, the GeorgiaHybrid comes from both of my parents being born and raised within 25 miles of where I am right now but I was born up north.

 

[mrbelvedere]

Maybe even smaller than we think.....dad retired in late 68-early 69, then went right into civil service at the same location....what we knew as Hunter Army Airfield. He passed away less than a year after his retirement. He had something to do with the radio systems and early warning systems of the day. At the time, it was a tiny little base...wonder if they knew each other.

My earliest memories are of my dad putting me up on the fender to sit while he worked on his old brown Rambler wagon, he was a freak and removed the battery whenever doing service, but it gave me a spot for my feet while I 'helped'. I credit him with giving me the mechanical side of his mind, and my lifelong love of Mopars. My brother got the electronic side!

You know how it is with Air Force families, where you're from is where you land!

 

[Cacti]

When I removed the main ram and reservoir the white colored seal remained in the bottom of the threaded pipe and also the washer that sits of top of the white colored seal was damaged. Do I have to remove the threaded pipe from the base in order to get to the white colored seal or can I just hack it out? Is the white colored seal and washer part of the rebuild kit?

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Just use a long handled pick to get it out. I doubt that you will get that "pipe" out of the base. The "washer" that you are talking about is the "U" cup seal. Both pieces should be part of the kit. If you get it from Hiball, make sure he knows what you need and it will be there for you.

If you don't have a long pick, get a radiator hose removal pick and grind it down to what you need. I have also used a cheap screwdriver and a grinder to make one.

 

[Hiball]

Just use a long handled pick to get it out. I doubt that you will get that "pipe" out of the base. The "washer" that you are talking about is the "U" cup seal. Both pieces should be part of the kit. If you get it from Hiball, make sure he knows what you need and it will be there for you.

If you don't have a long pick, get a radiator hose removal pick and grind it down to what you need. I have also used a cheap screwdriver and a grinder to make one.

He's actually talking about the Teflon Guide and the Metal Washer, Its not included in the kits as they are Normally not needed. What happens is the Ucup detiorates and that allows that White teflon piece to fall off along with the Washer and sometimes they get damaged. I believe ive already spoke with this member in regards to securing the proper pieces.

 

[cubfarm 1]

Watch those "heel plates",,, that is the white plastic piece that supports the seal. Sometimes they swell on the OD and they stick in the tube. Just grind the OD untill a loose fit lets it slide in the tube A too-tight heel plate will pull the seal off of the ram. In our shop I get 1 1/2 to 2 hours to rebuild a good floor jack! Great fun!

 

[_CY_]

thanks for sharing... just purchased a Walker 93632 off Craigslist that needs attention. pumps up, but doesn't stay.

 

[Z27]

Thanks for the write up and picture breakdown. I think I will attempt to
dismantle my Walker 93633. Everything should be similiar.

 

[bhalv]

and this is why I love this forum; a quick search and a nice walkthrough comes up. jut got 3 of these, and identical one from snap-on and a 2 no-names of the same size for $110, let the rebuilding begin!

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

and this is why I love this forum; a quick search and a nice walkthrough comes up. jut got 3 of these, and identical one from snap-on and a 2 no-names of the same size for $110, let the rebuilding begin!

Have fun, it doesn't take too long to make these jacks new again. Hiball is a great source for a kit with even better service. If I ever get done with the new garage, I plan on doing a "how to" like this on my long frame Blackhawk.

 

[bhalv]

Have fun, it doesn't take too long to make these jacks new again. Hiball is a great source for a kit with even better service. If I ever get done with the new garage, I plan on doing a "how to" like this on my long frame Blackhawk.

definitely gonna be going to Hiball for parts once i get them broken down, currently working on getting a puller rig set up to get one of the front wheels off. all the jacks i got sat in the rain for at least 5 years so they need a lot of love. have any ideas on getting the actual arm assembly off?

 

[Hiball]

definitely gonna be going to Hiball for parts once i get them broken down, currently working on getting a puller rig set up to get one of the front wheels off. all the jacks i got sat in the rain for at least 5 years so they need a lot of love. have any ideas on getting the actual arm assembly off?

Im assuming your meaning the Main Lift Arm, If so you will need to obviously remove the Nuts on the Main Pivot (1 each side). Once these are removed you will have to Remove the Strut arms that connect on the inside of the frame to the Lift Arm. Normally the connections at the Pad Hinge are held in place by a C-clip/Snap ring and Welded onto a stud on the Inner Frame, So obviously its better to disconnect from the Hinge below the pad.

Ouch.. Puller to Remove the Wheels? Sounds like Serious Rust issues, How is the Wheel condition? I suspect if they are rusted on, They werent Rolling.

 

[bhalv]

Im assuming your meaning the Main Lift Arm, If so you will need to obviously remove the Nuts on the Main Pivot (1 each side). Once these are removed you will have to Remove the Strut arms that connect on the inside of the frame to the Lift Arm. Normally the connections at the Pad Hinge are held in place by a C-clip/Snap ring and Welded onto a stud on the Inner Frame, So obviously its better to disconnect from the Hinge below the pad.

Ouch.. Puller to Remove the Wheels? Sounds like Serious Rust issues, How is the Wheel condition? I suspect if they are rusted on, They werent Rolling.

well the one well I have off so far literally slid right off and was rolling fine. the other one doesn't have any pitting or anything, its just really rusted. have any recommendations for removing the struts where they attach to the main body of the jack?

 

[bhalv]

so question of the day for Hiball, can I replace this pin?

 

[Hiball]

so question of the day for Hiball, can I replace this pin?

I believe i could find a used one..

 

[mstang]

Great thread and write up. My tank nut won't break loose with the modified socket shown in the pics. Any suggestions to break it loose?

 

[Hiball]

Great thread and write up. My tank nut won't break loose with the modified socket shown in the pics. Any suggestions to break it loose?

LEVERAGE......

 

[mstang]

Hiball, did you get my PM about needing a part?

 

[Hiball]

Hiball, did you get my PM about needing a part?

Yes... Replied.

 

[KMinAF]

Great thread and write up. My tank nut won't break loose with the modified socket shown in the pics. Any suggestions to break it loose?

I used 6' pipe on the end of a really big pipe wrench. last resort because the socket didn't work for me either.

 

[pop pop]

Progress update Hiball. I got 3 of the 4 bottle packing nuts off and am finally disassembling these rusty scraps. My newer one still is refusing. Used a IR 2135TiMax impact and a 1 1/2 modified 3/4 drive socket. More later. The newer one is still soaking in PB and ****** fluid.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I used 6' pipe on the end of a really big pipe wrench. last resort because the socket didn't work for me either.

I had to help a guy with one last week. Went to a truck shop and borrowed a 1" drive impact and it zipped it right off in less than 3 seconds.

 

[KMinAF]

I had to help a guy with one last week. Went to a truck shop and borrowed a 1" drive impact and it zipped it right off in less than 3 seconds.

So what are you using when reassembling?

 

[Hiball]

So what are you using when reassembling?

Use Loctite 518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker where the Metal meets the Metal and you dont have to torque that Tank nut down Near as much, You still want it fairly tight but doesnt have to be 200 ft/lbs tight.

 

[pop pop]

Update. Seems if you turn the tank upside down and spray a good quantity of PB Blaster into the vent (remove the vent obviously) hole and let it sit about a week. It will loosen. There is a 1/8" hole in the packing nut that will allow the PBB to get into the threads from the reservoir. I'm 4 for 4 now! Last one took about 30 seconds with the impact, once it was soaked.

Hiball, any hints on how to remove the cylinder from the block without damage?

 

[pop pop]

Question Hiball on the frame. Are the pins under the lift saddle plate held in place with snap rings? These are too rusty to tell and the pins will need replacement for safety. Looks like maybe 2 of the 3 rusty units could be salvagable with combining parts. One main lift pin ( With the big nuts on each side and grease fitting in the center ) isn't going to come out without damage. So that one will be scrap. Think I can salvage the frame though. I should have enough salvage parts to put two back together and a few good parts left over. Looks like I'll need a couple of soft part kits soon. What can you do for the two pins under the saddle plate? There is a picture in this thread above of the rusty ones. Let me know what you have new/used and what you need to get for them (PM me). I'll be a bit slow, but get everything at one time for one order/shipment once I complete the tear downs and clean up.