Walker 93632 Jack Rebuild

[starbrite]

Thanks for the write up and picture breakdown. I think I will attempt to
dismantle my Walker 93633. Everything should be similiar.

New to this terrific forum. I took the bottle out of my 93633 1 1/4 ton Walker today.

The process is similar to the op's with a slight difference. There is just one spring that mounts to the frame's pin and that pin is the bottle retainer. It has to be driven out, from the connection side, in order to remove the bottle.

I have a hydraulic repair shop locally that works/rebuilds floor jacks so I'm going to take it to them to remove that troublesome nut, rather than trying to make a suitable socket.

Btw, I had the common symptom of not holding height and then eventually failed to lift at all. I bought this jack new, way back when, just before Lincoln took over.

 

[pop pop]

New to this terrific forum. I took the bottle out of my 93633 1 1/4 ton Walker today.

The process is similar to the op's with a slight difference. There is just one spring that mounts to the frame's pin and that pin is the bottle retainer. It has to be driven out, from the connection side, in order to remove the bottle.

I have a hydraulic repair shop locally that works/rebuilds floor jacks so I'm going to take it to them to remove that troublesome nut, rather than trying to make a suitable socket.

Btw, I had the common symptom of not holding height and then eventually failed to lift at all. I bought this jack new, way back when, just before Lincoln took over.

How about a picture?

 

[starbrite]

How about a picture?

Sure, I can do that a little later today.

 

[starbrite]

Ok, here's pics of my 633. Physically very similar to the 632. A little smaller frame and round lift plate.

The "scissor" array is a little different, so I couldn't fold the mount block to the rear like the op's pic. Note that the spring holder/bottle retaining pin is driven out from the top. What you can see of the blue is what extends. Also note the different position of the filler/relief valve. Other than that the bottle is virtually identical to the 632.

View from the bottom with the bottle in place and pin almost all the way out.

Gee, now that I look at the pics, pretty messy looking. Is there paint available that matches the original Walker yellow and blue ?

Lastly, before I found this forum, I noticed the rebuild kits on Ebay and the hundreds that have been sold. Are all these buyers making their own custom socket for the tank nut? It seems that Walker would have had many service centers around the U.S that serviced these jacks. There must have been a socket made at the time that would enable easier removal of that nut.

 

[pop pop]

Thanks for the pics. I've worked on restoring some 32 and 42 models. Had not seen the 33. Hiball is THE Guru!. He can tell you about the socket from Walker, but earlier in this thread is how I made one for my use. Has worked well for me. He also offers the soft parts kit for rebuilding, and occasionally a hard part can be had!

Paint I used is the Rust Oleum Light Blue Hammered paint. Not correct, lighter in color, but similar to the color Walker used on the ones not branded "Walker" or "Snap On".

 

[starbrite]

Thanks for the info pop pop.

I bought this jack, back in the early eighties, when I had American cars that were somewhat lighter than the ones we have today. My German sedan weighs 3850 lbs and my wife's Japanese SUV weighs in at 5250 lbs.

I wondering if I should move up to a 2 ton jack like the Hein-Werner HW93642 ?

( I'll still rebuild the 633 and maybe sell it). Seems like a reasonably priced jack that's still made in the U.S.

 

[Hiball]

Thanks for the info pop pop.

I bought this jack, back in the early eighties, when I had American cars that were somewhat lighter than the ones we have today. My German sedan weighs 3850 lbs and my wife's Japanese SUV weighs in at 5250 lbs.

I wondering if I should move up to a 1 1/5 ton jack like the Hein-Werner HW93642 ?

( I'll still rebuild the 633 and maybe sell it). Seems like a reasonably priced jack that's still made in the U.S.

FYI.. HW 93642 is rated at 2 ton.

 

[starbrite]

Yes, thanks, I knew that, typo, my bad......I'm getting old what can I say.

Any response to the question anyone ?

 

[pop pop]

As to should you move up to 2 tons? Depends on what you are lifting. What you have should be good for most automotive use. Might not try lifting the front of a big V8 though.

I've got an 883 I've used for 40 years. It's a 1 1/4. It was my junkyard carry. Light enough, high enough, and strong enough for that.

 

[starbrite]

Thanks pop pop. The shop did a great job in the rebuild, so I think I'll keep the 633.

 

[123Go]

Ive been lifting 3/4 4x4 and 3/4 ton full custom vans for yrs with my 2 ton jacks and they never hesitated once. I have had some big trucks on them over the yrs. My nephew uses a HW 2 ton with his 4x4 suburban all the time.
I know people read gross wt {max loaded} alot on door stickers instead of curb wt so make sure your looking at correct numbers.
The safety valve on jacks if set right on them will not allow it to lift anything too heavy starlite so keep the 1 1/4 ton unless it wont lift something. If it lifts a vehicle then its within its lifting limits. Ive never seen or met that max limit, not once but I know its there.
My niece has some Hummers both big/small versions and the big H2 curb wt is around 6400lb. Half being 3200lb is still within the 2 ton HW range but Ive not lifted one. Millionaire's dont visit their families you know...lol

 

[drefi]

Update: I found a local jack rebuilder (S&K PALLET JACK REPAIR Hopkins, MN) who was able to do a complete rebuild on my 93632 hydraulic unit. He was even able to use the seals & parts from the kit I had purchased years earlier. He charged me for 1 1/2 hrs at a very reasonable labor rate. I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions for getting the return springs back on? Can you hook them first & pivot the bottle into place? Just wondering if there is an order for reassembly written down anywhere? Thanks to anyone with ideas, Stan

 

[pop pop]

Stan, what I've done is position my body in front of the jack (opposite the handle) with the lift raised about half way. Hook the rear of the spring into the jack body then using some small faced Channel Lock pliers grab the end of the spring, pull out and hook onto the post, close the spring end around the post.

 

[Hiball]

By far the best way to install the springs is prior to folding the linkage up inside the frame, Below is a illustration of what I mean. The picture doesn't represent a walker jack, but the procedure is the same.

 

[Ladd]

I'm pretty sure I'll need to purchase a socket to be modified to attempt to take off the tank nut on my two-ton Lincoln 93652 Series E, manufactured late 1986.

I haven't take the jack apart yet to accurately measure what size socket I'll need and thought I might ask what size socket other folks have used for the modifications necessary to remove the tank nut. I eyeballed mine with tape measure and am guessing I would need a socket about 2.25 inches across. I am unable to see the size of the socket the OP show in the original photos.

There have to be better brands or types of sockets for me to purchase, so as to reduce the chances of the pins that are left after modification shearing off.

Would an impact socket be stronger than a "regular" socket?

Any and all advice appreciated.

 

[Hiball]

I'm pretty sure I'll need to purchase a socket to be modified to attempt to take off the tank nut on my two-ton Lincoln 93652 Series E, manufactured late 1986.

I haven't take the jack apart yet to accurately measure what size socket I'll need and thought I might ask what size socket other folks have used for the modifications necessary to remove the tank nut. I eyeballed mine with tape measure and am guessing I would need a socket about 2.25 inches across. I am unable to see the size of the socket the OP show in the original photos.

There have to be better brands or types of sockets for me to purchase, so as to reduce the chances of the pins that are left after modification shearing off.

Would an impact socket be stronger than a "regular" socket?

Any and all advice appreciated.

Based off David's pictures it appears he used a Budd socket that measured 1 1/2" x 13/16". I would definitely use Impact, and you want the socket to clear the ram that pertrudes out the tank nut (ID) and also fill as much as the spanner grooves as possible.

 

[Ladd]

Based off David's pictures it appears he used a Budd socket that measured 1 1/2" x 13/16". I would definitely use Impact, and you want the socket to clear the ram that protrudes out the tank nut (ID) and also fill as much as the spanner grooves as possible.

That's the size I thought I could read off of the socket in the photo; what confused me is that when I did a rough "turn my jack on its side and roughly guess an eyeball tape measurement of the gland nut", I got about to 2.25" in width. That's *WAY* larger than David's socket size. I guess my Lincoln 93652 is more different than his Walker 93632 than I expected.

I'm not sure I want to know how much a 2.25" impact socket is going to cost ...

 

[Hiball]

That's the size I thought I could read off of the socket in the photo; what confused me is that when I did a rough "turn my jack on its side and roughly guess an eyeball tape measurement of the gland nut", I got about to 2.25" in width. That's *WAY* larger than David's socket size. I guess my Lincoln 93652 is more different than his Walker 93632 than I expected.

I'm not sure I want to know how much a 2.25" impact socket is going to cost ...

I suspect David's socket didn't completely encompass the tank nut, what your looking for is the Socket ID to straddle the short part of the ram that extrudes from the unit "And" a socket that has a big enough OD fill the spanner grooves as much as possible. Btw if your handy with minor metal fab and have access to a welder, it's not hard to make a tool.

 

[Ladd]

I suspect David's socket didn't completely encompass the tank nut, what your looking for is the Socket ID to straddle the short part of the ram that extrudes from the unit "And" a socket that has a big enough OD fill the spanner grooves as much as possible.

And, of course, you are correct. I took the hydraulic unit out of my Lincoln jack yesterday and was surprised at the length of the notches. The ram itself was 1.25" in diameter so I now realize why David's socket was 1.5".

 

[pop pop]

And, of course, you are correct. I took the hydraulic unit out of my Lincoln jack yesterday and was surprised at the length of the notches. The ram itself was 1.25" in diameter so I now realize why David's socket was 1.5".

Ladd, if you check Northern Tool, they have a 3/4" drive deep impact socket in 1 1/2" size that works. When you machine away for the tabs, leave the flat or fattest part of the socket metal. This will fit almost exactly the OD of the packing nut and fill about 2/3rds of the slot. Has worked for about 6 for me. ID fits over the rod and cost isn't too bad either. I made one with the fit on the ID that was a metric socket and the torque on the packing nut would not transfer and sheared my pins. Less force on the outer edge for the same loosening torque with the larger socket.

 

[Ladd]

Ladd, if you check Northern Tool, they have a 3/4" drive deep impact socket in 1 1/2" size that works.

Thanks for the tip; I never thought to check Northern Tool. I ordered a Sunex impact socket from Lowe's this morning for about $6 less.

When you machine away for the tabs, leave the flat or fattest part of the socket metal. This will fit almost exactly the OD of the packing nut and fill about 2/3rds of the slot. Has worked for about 6 for me. ID fits over the rod and cost isn't too bad either. I made one with the fit on the ID that was a metric socket and the torque on the packing nut would not transfer and sheared my pins. Less force on the outer edge for the same loosening torque with the larger socket.

I've got the grinder and the cut-off wheels and I'm looking forward to mounting the socket into the vise. Hopefully cutting metal away on the socket and leaving the correct size pins will go as planned.

Assuming you mount the socket in a vise prior to engaging the cut-off wheel, how do you mount it in the vise? Metal-to-metal? Install the rubber pads on the vise jaws? Use soft wood? Or just ensure that the cut-off wheel always engages perpendicular to the jaws, not parallel, to keep the socket from spinning in the vice?

 

[pop pop]

Just held it in my gloved hand.

 

[Ladd]

Just held it in my gloved hand.

Gotta admit that hadn't occurred to me.

 

[Ladd]

Just held it in my gloved hand.

Were you using a Dremel tool or a bench grinder with cut-off wheel? That's the only way I can think of hand-holding the socket.

 

[pop pop]

Used a cut off tool and the bench grinder. File for finish dimension.

Used tape to mark the cut line.

 

[Wayne J]

Hiball,
pm sent.

 

[Ladd]

Re: rebuilding a two-ton Lincoln 93652 Series E jack:

Got the 1.5" impact socket last week from Lowes, cut/filed it down so that it had the correct dimensions to fit the slots on the gland nut, hooked it up to my trusty Harbor Freight 425 ft/lbs impact wrench and six-gallon pancake compressor and the nut didn't budge. After half-a-dozen tries, I upped the pressure from the recommended 90 lbs to 100. Didn't work. After two tries, I upped the pressure to 110 lbs and tried once. Gland nut didn't budge.

Took the hydraulic unit and the socket to a friend's auto repair shop today, he connected my modified socket to his Snap-On wrench and immediately after pulling the trigger one of the nibs sheared off the socket. So, the good news is that his wrench is much, much stronger than mine.

I'll try cutting down the socket one more time and see if fresh, unstrained nibs are somehow stronger.

BTW: Kind of getting ahead of myself here, but how much jack oil will I need to purchase to re-fill my hydraulic unit after rebuild?

 

[EDGAR]

It would be better to make a couple of notches on the socket and weld a couple of inserts of low or medium carbon steel to the socket. Make the insert of a size that will span the whole slot length on the big nut so the torque is spread better and not just in one small place. If you cut new nibs, there is a great possibility they will shear away again.

There is a trick I was thought a long time ago to help loosen a very tight nut. Find something similar to the socket, or maybe even the socket itself, place it over the main nut and give it a couple of whacks with a 2 or 3 lbs sledge hammer. Try to hit it squarely on the top so the force is spread evenly to the main nut and nut just to one side. Try this and then apply the impact wrench. If it does not loosens the first time, try again with the hammer, this time a little harder. The idea is to "break" the seize between the nut and the cylinder, and not to loosen it completely this way, of course, you will still need some power to take it off. This should only reduce the amount of power needed to remove the nut.

You know that threads have some play in them and when you tighten an assembly of any sort, the threads of the assembly parts get together on one side, leaving some space in the other side. In the case of the pump, when you hit the nut, you are trying to separate the nut threads making contact with the cylinder threads. For this movement, or separation to happen, the oil tank, which is the part keeping tight the nut, would have to compress a couple of thousands of an inch or so, and not much more, to make it easier to loosen the nut. This is why you need to hit it squarely, so whatever compression happens, is even. Whatever compression you get should not be noticeable to the naked eye since, at most, the total compression you could achieve, if striking very hard, would only be of a similar amount of the play between the nut and the cylinder threads, which should be very small. This, properly done, will not damage the oil tank.

 

[pop pop]

Sheared one ear one time. I let the impact (well, I didn't exactly let it) move a bit and all the energy must have transferred through one ear. Try again. Keep the fit tight and hold the jack steady as well as the impact. I use a IR 2135TI and it scares me but does the job. If you shear another, I'd go for another socket with better metal. You did purchase an impact one, right?

I also soak the threads by filling the tank with a few ounces of penetrating oil ( I use automatic ****** fluid) and inverting the tank (rod down). Let it sit this way a few days. You'll see a hole in the threads that allows oil to reach the threads once you remove it.

 

[Ladd]

It would be better to make a couple of notches on the socket and weld a couple of inserts of low or medium carbon steel to the socket. Make the insert of a size that will span the whole slot length on the big nut so the torque is spread better and not just in one small place. If you cut new nibs, there is a great possibility they will shear away again.

Yup, the OP has said he usually welded up a tool for this task prior to trying the socket trick. Unfortunately for me, I don't have a welder or ready access to one.

There is a trick I was taught a long time ago to help loosen a very tight nut. Find something similar to the socket, or maybe even the socket itself, place it over the main nut and give it a couple of whacks with a 2 or 3 lbs sledge hammer. Try to hit it squarely on the top so the force is spread evenly to the main nut and nut just to one side. Try this and then apply the impact wrench. If it does not loosens the first time, try again with the hammer, this time a little harder. The idea is to "break" the seize between the nut and the cylinder, and not to loosen it completely this way, of course, you will still need some power to take it off. This should only reduce the amount of power needed to remove the nut.

I'll give this one a try.

 

[Ladd]

Sheared one ear one time. I let the impact (well, I didn't exactly let it) move a bit and all the energy must have transferred through one ear. Try again. Keep the fit tight and hold the jack steady as well as the impact. I use a IR 2135TI and it scares me but does the job. If you shear another, I'd go for another socket with better metal. You did purchase an impact one, right?

Yup, Sunex impact socket from Lowe's, chrome-moly steel.

I also soak the threads by filling the tank with a few ounces of penetrating oil ( I use automatic ****** fluid) and inverting the tank (rod down). Let it sit this way a few days. You'll see a hole in the threads that allows oil to reach the threads once you remove it.

I'll give this a try. Time I have.

 

[EDGAR]

LADD

Now you have the perfect excuse for buying a welder. You need the welder to fabricate a tool to fix your jack.

 

[Ladd]

I've put my Walker 93652 Series E 2 Ton back together again and it won't lift. Not an inch.

To recap: I removed the hydraulic cylinder from the frame. I unscrewed and removed the release valve assembly. I unscrewed and removed the pump assembly. I attempted multiple times to removed the slotted gland nut and was unsuccessful. Since the jack actually worked previously and was only leaking a small amount of oil (from somewhere), I decided to put everything back together in preparation for putting on snow tires in a day or two.

Screwed the pump assembly back into the hydraulic unit and tightened. Screwed the release unit back in and snugged. Put the hydraulic unit back into the frame. Removed vent plug and added oil to cover cylinder visible in hydraulic unit prior to adding oil. Opened release valve one turn and pumped handle rapidly ten times. Closed release valve and pumped handle but the jack didn't lift. Repeated with no success.

With release valve closed, I lifted the jack by hand to fully up. Strong sucking noise heard. Opened release valve one full turn and extended jack didn't go down. Pushed the extended jack and it went down rapidly. Closed release valve and pumped; jack would not go up.

Repeated the above. No success.

Added oil until it came to the level of the fill hole (which, I believe, is too much oil). Repeated all of the above with no success. One change though -- this time after raising the jack by hand, opening the release valve and having the jack not go down, I again pushed it by hand and it went down rapidly, this time pushing a quantity of jack oil out the fill hole in a two foot radius of the jack. That's what paper towels are for!

Reviewing the beginning of this discussion thread, I see where the OP has removed a conical piece of metal from the release valve hole. I did not do this, nor do I find it in the hole now. It is not in the area where I attempted to remove the gland nut and it seems a bit too late to check the area of the shop I took the the unit to a while back (twice).

My symptoms seem to fit the scenario where the actual release valve is missing. Photos below of the release valve assembly and the hole it screws into (now filled with new oil; a pick goes in quite deep below the surface of the oil and the only thing felt deep down is what I'm guessing is an oil port hole).

Opinions?

 

[pop pop]

Can't see for the oil, but just below the surface should be the flat end of the release valve. It is a turnip shaped metal piece. If you've lost that, it must be replaced. They do fall out at the most odd times when working on the unit. Without that being closed, it will not lift.

 

[Ladd]

Can't see for the oil, but just below the surface should be the flat end of the release valve. It is a turnip shaped metal piece. If you've lost that, it must be replaced. They do fall out at the most odd times when working on the unit. Without that being closed, it will not lift.

Turnip shaped -- good description. I'm pretty sure it isn't in the hole as a pick goes at least 1/2" below the surface of the oil before hitting bottom.

 

[Hiball]

Turnip shaped -- good description. I'm pretty sure it isn't in the hole as a pick goes at least 1/2" below the surface of the oil before hitting bottom.

AH.. the Old Missing Release Valve, Almost as common as the "The Jack was working and I loaned it to my Neighbor and Now it doesn't work" Story..

PM, Responded too.

 

[Ladd]

AH.. the Old Missing Release Valve, Almost as common as the "The Jack was working and I loaned it to my Neighbor and Now it doesn't work" Story..

Almost comforting, making a *common* rookie mistake!

 

[Hiball]

Almost comforting, making a *common* rookie mistake!

The Only people not making mistakes are the People not doing anything..

John Wooden

 

[Sharpest]

I have been working on my rebuild and it has fought me at every turn. I had to tack-weld my tank nut to the socket. The ears on my socket held up fine. The metal of the tank nut gave so I had to weld them together. Then I had to heat the nut up to a dull glow to get it loose. Luckily no threads were damaged. Then the pump plunger required every ounce of my *** on the end of a 2' box end to break loose. Now I can't get one of the plugs out as well as a few other issues.

First off the is the main shaft. The rebuild kit only came with one seal and it appears there were three nylon ones and one steel originally. How do I go about reassembling these?


Next is the tank nut seal. The main seal is the same in the rebuild kit but the dirt wipe in the kit is rubber. The original appears to be jute (which i tore removing) and I just want to confirm its the right seal.



I can't get this gallery plug out. It is fubar and I may have to easy-out it. Is there somewhere I can get a replacement?



Finally I have the pump plunger. The removed seals are stacked as they were taken off. Four seals with a convex washer on bottom and a flat one on top. My kit only came with one seal that has one convex side and one flat side but I has three convex washers I have no idea what to do here.


Thanks for the help!

 

[pop pop]

I'll leave the jack technicals to HIball. On the plug, I use the hand held impact driver from Sears.