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Wall cabinet storage solutions

tvtaurus

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Nov 16, 2014
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Indiana
It's been a long while since I have been on here, but I am back. I purchased a new house back in October and now that it is getting colder I want to tackle setting up my garage. My garage only has 8ft ceilings. I want to hang some large cabinets in the front of the garage for storage as I do not have a basement. I also want to be able to store my tool boxes underneath. My largest toolbox is a 67" roll cab with a workbench top. I just haven't found any store-bought option that I really like yet. I like the DIY option below, but I am open to suggestions. I kind of like the NewAge product line But I worry that there will not be enough space in the drawers and cabinets.
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Photos of garage:
 

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bad_idea

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I built a version of those in my last garage. I had 9' ceilings. I built them 2' high and 18" deep. Had to use a step stool to use them, but made use of otherwise dead space. I stacked plenty of weight in them and never had an issue.
 
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T

tvtaurus

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The sliding doors seem like the best idea for ease of access in a small space with vehicles in the way.
 

bad_idea

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I did the door slides differently too. I routed a 1/4" groove in the framework of the cabinets top and bottom. The bottom groove was half the depth of the top groove to allow the doors to be pushed into the top groove and then drop into the bottom groove. IIRC the bottom groove was 3/8" deep and the top was 3/4" deep. I no longer own that house, so I can not go out and measure them. I made the doors out of 1/4" MDF. Painted the shiny side and slid them in the tracks.

The cabinets were cheap to build as I already had the plywood laying around and I simplified the design to exchange fancy materials for labor.
 

RoyBell

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Oct 11, 2015
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Chicago
I started to cut the lumber for my garage cabinets. I am debating sliding or swing doors. I hate sliding doors because I have a hard time finding stuff. But they take up so much less room when cars are in the way.
 
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Voi

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Oct 10, 2010
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Western South Dakota
Sliding doors can be a good solution but work best, IMO, when you have fewer large doors vs more smaller doors.

I've used the plastic tracks as well as made my own.

I do like the plastic tracks with the radiused lower track. The wooden tracks I've built have not had the radius but I suppose with the right router but it should be doable. Or one could drop HDPE or UHMW dowels into the bottom of a wood track.

Cheapest price I've seen for the plastic track is Out water. I don't recall what the max length you could order was but it was more than I needed at the time.

I never broke the plastic track but always set it up so the bottom shelf sat slightly higher than the bottom track. That way anybody could slide stuff right out without lifting it up & over the track.

I liked to use peg board in the track but then you can only use hooks in the front door panel.
 

Slednut

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Washington state
I built a version of those in my last garage. I had 9' ceilings. I built them 2' high and 18" deep. Had to use a step stool to use them, but made use of otherwise dead space. I stacked plenty of weight in them and never had an issue.

Same here.

BTW OP, I would move the UPS for your FTTH to the other wall. If you're not using it unplug the 12 volt power/alarm wire and stuff it into the hole where the wire goes through the wall. Then you can just remove the UPS. If that is not the UPS for your FTTH (fiber to the home) never mind.
 

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tvtaurus

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Same here.

BTW OP, I would move the UPS for your FTTH to the other wall. If you're not using it unplug the 12 volt power/alarm wire and stuff it into the hole where the wire goes through the wall. Then you can just remove the UPS. If that is not the UPS for your FTTH (fiber to the home) never mind.

I'm going to take the UPS down entirely. Even though my house is wired for fiber I am currently too cheap, so i am using Xfinity instead. They originally placed it there because the garage only has one electrical outlet. I am going to use some wire mold and install several more outlets. I also have to do some drywall repair and paint before hanging anything. I will also put my road bike in the shed to save garage space.
 

forAK

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Nov 11, 2015
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380
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Peters Creek AK
I did the door slides differently too. I routed a 1/4" groove in the framework of the cabinets top and bottom. The bottom groove was half the depth of the top groove to allow the doors to be pushed into the top groove and then drop into the bottom groove. IIRC the bottom groove was 3/8" deep and the top was 3/4" deep. I no longer own that house, so I can not go out and measure them. I made the doors out of 1/4" MDF. Painted the shiny side and slid them in the tracks.

The cabinets were cheap to build as I already had the plywood laying around and I simplified the design to exchange fancy materials for labor.

This is the route that I was going to go. After having to clean up where the cabinet doors let loose through the earthquake, the sliders seem to be a better option.
 

jimreed2160

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Aug 7, 2016
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3,589
Location
Tallahassee FL
My garage shop was full of plywood and 2x4 furniture--functional but not efficient or pretty. I have replaced most of it with rolling toolbox bottoms and Gladiator cabinets. You can read about the transformation here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391603

The Gladiator cabinets look great and they are movable if you install them that way. I like the flexibility because my shop changes often. My homebuilt stuff was not very portable. And being steel they are great for attaching magnetic accessories.

You have a nice space. Good luck filling it up.
 
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