which t8 fixtures?
- Thread starter jethrob
- Start date
vonhef
Well-known member
Any electrical wholesale supply house can hook you up.. I see you're in Southern, Oklahoma.. Where exactly ?? My sales territory includes Paris, TX. If you could make a trip there, I could get one of my distributors to fix you up. I can work up a project quote, and give you pricing, then just get the order from them, with pre negotiated pricing to you.
They don't turn away "free business"..
I will give you my info in private soon and see what you can offer. Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Who's advertising their business?
I've offered lighting layout and design to multiple people on this forum. Without any suggestion of charging a dime.
With the majority of my projects being $ 500k plus, I can assure you that on the highly unlikely possibility of me ever facilitating a purchase of any of my products on this site, doing so would be of no financial benefit to me.
I enjoy the site. And if I can contribute any of my knowledge or expertise, that's my only desire.
Telling me what town someone lives in, is hardly providing personal, private info.
2ManyProjects
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2013
- Messages
- 757
I'll believe 5% "flicker free" when I see it.
Uh, huh. At $150+ a pop:
http://www.grainger.com/product/5KB39
...which brings us right back to what I said about requiring "some rather expensive dedicated controls to accomplish even that much."
Because, with the potential exception of trivially less installation hassle/expense, they buy you NOTHING which cannot be accomplished with two individual 4-foot fixtures, AND they impose additional limitations which are themselves undesirable.
That simply isn't true. The least expensive 8-foot tandems which have been mentioned here are in the realm of $40 each. Decent 4-foot fixtures can be had for little more than $20 each (one of my favorites is $22 at any Lowe's you happen to have handy).
Dual-ballast fixtures will drive up the costs still further vis-a-vis those "$40 specials" noted above. And you STILL forfeit spacing flexibility.
When exactly did that decision get made? And are you willing to reconsider it (you'll surely be better off in the long run if you do)?
That has to be one of the worst bases upon which to determine fixture placement that I could possibly think of.
In case I was not sufficiently clear earlier, the term "high performance" as used in that Menard's ad is absolutely meaningless.
A. - You don't need a GFCI breaker. A standard GFCI outlet will have a second pair of terminals (marked "Load") to feed standard outlets located "downstream" of the GFCI outlet, which will then also be GFCI-protected.
B. - You neither need nor want GFCI protection on your LIGHTING circuits.
C. - You really should split your lights between at least two circuits, even if a single one is adequate to handle the load. That way, you won't be left completely in the dark if/when one breaker pops (or must be shut down for maintenance).
Potentially true, but only to a trivial extent. Assuming a reasonable quality modern electronic ballast, the "overhead" it imposes is just not all that great. And besides, this concern certainly pales by comparison to the lost flexibility; and any "energy savings" are more than wiped out by having to run more lights than you really need, at least sometimes.
12 foot wall height, white metal ceiling, white metal for top 8 foot, bottom 4 foot is going to be light gray
2 many,
I'm not here to get into one of your proverbial ******* matches.
Advance mark 10 dimming ballasts are about a 40-50 $ adder to the cost of a fixture.
5% flicker free is a standard on commercial and school projects. Just because you've not witnessed it, certainly you won't deny it. I've literally sold thousands of dimming fluorescent troffers, hi bays, and linear strips in the last year. Miraculously, none of them flicker at 5%. Your original assertion of "very expensive controls" was referring to fluorescent dimmers. I was simply showing the readers that, that's not exactly the case. And since we are all so keen on payback of lighting, perhaps we could debate the speedy payback of initially purchasing dimming fixtures, for a location that they'd be useful?
Or the potential daylight harvesting possibilities, using dimming fixtures. Dimming fluorescent is much more mainstream than you'd think.
I'm not here to get into one of your proverbial ******* matches.
Advance mark 10 dimming ballasts are about a 40-50 $ adder to the cost of a fixture.
5% flicker free is a standard on commercial and school projects. Just because you've not witnessed it, certainly you won't deny it. I've literally sold thousands of dimming fluorescent troffers, hi bays, and linear strips in the last year. Miraculously, none of them flicker at 5%. Your original assertion of "very expensive controls" was referring to fluorescent dimmers. I was simply showing the readers that, that's not exactly the case. And since we are all so keen on payback of lighting, perhaps we could debate the speedy payback of initially purchasing dimming fixtures, for a location that they'd be useful?
Or the potential daylight harvesting possibilities, using dimming fixtures. Dimming fluorescent is much more mainstream than you'd think.
2ManyProjects
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2013
- Messages
- 757
"Too narrow" for what?
I never said they were "junk". I merely pointed out that we have no evidence to suggest that they AREN'T junk; and no amount of meaningless ad puffery will ever change that. So what we're left with is simply yet another el-cheapo plug-in "shop light". Notably, as a class, MOST such el-cheapo plug-in "shop lights" are indeed junk; so failing any credible reason to believe otherwise regarding THIS particular el-cheapo plug-in "shop light"... Well, I'll leave the obvious final conclusion to you.
Besides which, junk or not, they simply aren't appropriate for the application at hand -- which is really the larger issue anyway.
NO WAY.
$16-20 for a standard GFCI Duplex outlet:
$15.79
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...I-Outlet-Light-Almond-R06-X7599-0KT/202514667
$16.29
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...lex-GFCI-Outlet-White-R12-X7599-0PW/202514677
$19.41
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...et-White-R02-X7899-0KW/202514681?N=5yc1vZc33a
Or $36-50 for a single-pole GFCI breaker:
$35.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...le-GFCI-Circuit-Breaker-HOM120GFICP/100002959
$49.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Murray-20-Amp-Single-Pole-GFCI-Breaker-MP120GFP/202315529
$49.97
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens-...uit-Breaker-QF120P/100007210?N=5yc1vZbm0kZ1dd
Have you not been paying attention? As has been explained countless times (by MANY folks; not just me), plug-in "shop lights" inherently have all sorts of problems when (mis-)used for general illumination:
1. - The NEC requires ALL 120V outlets in shops/garages to be GFCI-protected; GFCIs and fluorescent loads (especially large-ish fluorescent loads) can be a problematic mix, causing (otherwise unnecessary) "nuisance trips".
2. - At least most such "shop lights" are NOT rated for direct surface contact, due to heat-dissipation issues. That means they MUST be suspended at some distance below the ceiling (hence the cheap-*** chains typically supplied with them). This often plays hob with your desired light-distribution patterns, as the light now has less opportunity to spread out to the sides before reaching "working height". Hence, you now need still more fixtures, spaced closer together than would otherwise be necessary, in order to avoid spotty uneven lighting.
3. - The plugs & sockets themselves are inherently less reliable, especially after lots of thermal cycling, than a properly made hard-wired connection.
4. - The cords themselves become an ugly rats nest, which catches all manner of dust & dirt, and becomes next to impossible to keep clean & tidy. And if your area is prone to birds and/or critters with teeth... Well, good luck.
5. - All those (otherwise-unnecessary) boxes, duplex outlets, and switch plates add significant cost to the job.
I'm not sure on the codes, I think so though!
Just wanted to pipe up and say it's actually a better way to do things if the outlets are in remote locations such as a ceiling where it would be hard to reset.
If you panel is hard to get to then I think the outlets my serve you better but they are pricey.
I bought my GFCI breakers off of Ebay for $15 each.
Just wanted to pipe up and say it's actually a better way to do things if the outlets are in remote locations such as a ceiling where it would be hard to reset.
If you panel is hard to get to then I think the outlets my serve you better but they are pricey.
I bought my GFCI breakers off of Ebay for $15 each.
2ManyProjects
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2013
- Messages
- 757
As I said earlier, that's NOT what should determine fixture placement.
Indeed, I did.
But those are two different statements. The REASONS you don't want them were summarized a few lines down, when I said:
And THAT is the key point: They are simply the wrong tool for the job, regardless of how well-made they may or may not be.
Really? Just how "inexpensive" do you expect such a product to be? You have to figure, by the time all the wholesale/distributor/retail markups are accounted for, along with the packaging, shipping & warehousing costs, and general overhead at each step along the way, the actual manufacturing cost of that "$15" fixture is maybe five bucks, if that much. Just how much "quality workmanship" and/or "precision engineering" do you expect for about the price of a fancy cup of coffee at Starbucks?!?
You are not being realistic.
Not at all. But what YOU are obviously overlooking is that exactly the same principle applies to GFCI outlets. Every one I've ever seen (or that you are likely to find), including each of those I cited earlier, has TWO sets of terminals. One set is marked "LINE", and accepts the incoming power feed from the breaker; the other set is marked "LOAD", and is used to feed power "downstream" to additional (standard, non-GFCI) outlets, which then automagically also become GFCI-protected:
That you are apparently unaware of this tells me that you have never even looked at a GFCI outlet (at least, not one which has not already been installed). Given that, the hubris embodied in your arguing such things is at best comical.
The Hell I haven't! Each and every one of those numbered bullet points which followed that statement is an incontrovertible FACT. And since you chose to argue with them individually, here they are again:
Wrong.
It does not matter if the GFCI circuit happens to be installed in a breaker or an outlet, it is still subject to EXACTLY the same "nuisance trip" issues when saddled with an "unfriendly" load, such as a large-ish motor or a bank of fluorescent lights. It is the GFCI circuit itself (and the manner in which it operates), vis-a-vis the characteristics of the load, which potentially causes the problem. The packaging is utterly irrelevant.
You can "think" and "imagine" whatever you want. That doesn't change the FACT that, unless a fixture is EXPLICITLY rated for direct surface mounting, it is illegal and dangerous to so mount it. Case in point: The spec sheet for the specific fixture you asked about at the start of this thread (and which you have been irrationally "defending" ever since) EXPLICITLY states:
Code:
Suspended mounting only with included chain.This admonition is repeated (in more detail and multiple languages) in the installation instructions for that same fixture.
As I said before, that is typical of the type.
I'm saying that a plug & socket connection is not AS secure or reliable as a properly made hard-wired connection. Now, by comparison to the some of the other issues in this list, this one is perhaps a more minor concern (because it would likely take quite some time for the problem to manifest itself); but it remains true nonetheless.
Repeating a mistake several times over does not make it less of a mistake.
It would still be an ugly dirt-catching rat's nest; and those coiled-up cords would still be subject to damage from various sources, including critters.
First, where are you getting "$40"? Of the half-dozen or so fixtures that I suggested to you earlier in this thread, only ONE of them approaches that price point. Three others are in the $20-22 range; and two are about $28-30.
Second, assuming you're using quality components (which admittedly is perhaps NOT a safe assumption in your case, what with your penchant for eBay shopping and what not), each of those box/outlet/switchplate combos will likely add something like $5-8 to the cost of each fixture. (cf. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-W...lectrical-Outlet-White-TRBR15W-SP-L/203492687, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...Electrical-Box-B121ADJ/202077339?N=5yc1vZbohn, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-R62-0PJ26-00W/100356918?N=5yc1vZc6r0Z1z0v9zg, etc.), not to mention the extra labor to install it all. And guess what? That "overhead", plus your $15 bargain-basement "shop light", brings the total cost of doing it wrong right up to what one of those $22 surface-mount fixtures would have cost. Whooda thunk?
More to the point, when choosing your fixtures, you are presumably getting something of value for any "extra" money you spend (say, in the case of picking the $40 fixture vs. the $22 fixture, even if that is done solely for aesthetic reasons). But the cost of those aforementioned boxes, duplex outlets, and switch plates represent an UNNECESSARY expense, which actually buys you nothing of value vis-a-vis a properly installed surface-mount fixture.
So... Are those enough FACTS for you?
As you will note, I dealt with it. But would it really have been so difficult for you to PROPERLY form the quoted portions of your post?
You are apparently laboring under one of the same misconceptions that "jethrob" is clinging to. In EITHER case, you only need one GFCI device per branch circuit, provided that you install it correctly.
See the photo & diagram posted above.
You really think it is dangerous to surface mount a hanging fixture on a metal ceiling? Have you looked at or held the Menards high po fixture? It feels really solid and has a nice pained finish. It should be easy to drill a couple of holes in the middle to screw the boggers straight up to the ceiling.
It is way friggin cheaper to install a breaker than buy a bunch of outlets. GFCI outlets are $12 a pop or so. I got GFCI breakers for $15 each and I can rig up to 8 outlets easy enough to a single 20 amp breaker.
All of the $20ish lights you suggested have terrible reviews.
It is way friggin cheaper to install a breaker than buy a bunch of outlets. GFCI outlets are $12 a pop or so. I got GFCI breakers for $15 each and I can rig up to 8 outlets easy enough to a single 20 amp breaker.
All of the $20ish lights you suggested have terrible reviews.
2ManyProjects
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2013
- Messages
- 757
What I (or you) "think" doesn't matter. If the fixture in question was really safe for surface mounting, it would not carry that warning.
None of that matters one whit, either. Those fixtures are NOT suitable for surface-mounting PERIOD.
My Ghod, man... Can't you even READ?!?
What part of:
And/or:
did you not understand?!?
lol, sorry, didn't read it, who has time for that?
Just messin wtih ya. I stand corrected.
What do you think of this one?
http://www.menards.com/main/lightin...around-fluorescent-light/p-1656206-c-7495.htm
Spoke with AFX regarding the high po chain haning light. They said it could be surface mounted no problem but would it would void the warranty if I drill holes in the fixture to do so. Also they didn't think the light would last very long for continuous duty and said it was designed more for intermittent use.
Just messin wtih ya. I stand corrected.
What do you think of this one?
http://www.menards.com/main/lightin...around-fluorescent-light/p-1656206-c-7495.htm
Spoke with AFX regarding the high po chain haning light. They said it could be surface mounted no problem but would it would void the warranty if I drill holes in the fixture to do so. Also they didn't think the light would last very long for continuous duty and said it was designed more for intermittent use.
and the winner is....after much great debate and discussion...
Utilitech wrap around fixture!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_163697-337-...&cm_mmc=AFF_CJ-_-6147012-_-2470763-_-11450439
thanks for all the help
My only minor concerns is the ballast is residential. Sales rep on floor said they won't last as long or made as well as the commercial. Also hoping the diffusers don't make it dimmer.
Utilitech wrap around fixture!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_163697-337-...&cm_mmc=AFF_CJ-_-6147012-_-2470763-_-11450439
thanks for all the help
My only minor concerns is the ballast is residential. Sales rep on floor said they won't last as long or made as well as the commercial. Also hoping the diffusers don't make it dimmer.
Attachments
armorerr
Member
Let us know how you like them; I was strongly considering those but am waffling (again) and looking at the 8' fixtures like you had previously purchased. The diffuser (that I thought I wanted) is now a hang-up.
I dunno which is better. The commercial fixtures may be built a little tougher. Also they are supposed to be more energy efficient at the cost of RF interference.
I just bought the utility light because 2manyprojects said it was his first choice.
Still a little nervous bout the choice.
I just bought the utility light because 2manyprojects said it was his first choice.
Still a little nervous bout the choice.
they are junk, save your coin and yourself so hassle and get the commercial fixtures if they are going in your garage
Turned out they were different than the one on display. No cover for internal wires and ballast is exposed. They are meant to wire into a junction box. No knockouts. One on display had knockouts also.
I kind of figured the diffusers would break and yellow over time but thought the fixtures could be used without them. Not with the way the ballast and wiring is exposed it would look like ***.
I think those are probably about the worst possible choice for a garage. I don't know why 2many recommended them as his number one choice. Obviously he hasn't installed or used those fixtures.
took them back, not sure what I'm going to use
Turned out they were different than the one on display. No cover for internal wires and ballast is exposed. They are meant to wire into a junction box. No knockouts. One on display had knockouts also.
I kind of figured the diffusers would break and yellow over time but thought the fixtures could be used without them. Not with the way the ballast and wiring is exposed it would look like ***.
I think those are probably about the worst possible choice for a garage. I don't know why 2many recommended them as his number one choice. Obviously he hasn't installed or used those fixtures.
took them back, not sure what I'm going to use
one other thing about those residential lights I think they would be OK if you are just installing a few in a house.
if you are doing several dozen there are much better options for the money
also spare parts are not available for that fixture such as a diffuser which you have to have or it will look terrible
I can imagine diffusers in general being a pita for a garage type installation, breaking, getting dirty, not replaceable, yellowing with time, etc.
if you are doing several dozen there are much better options for the money
also spare parts are not available for that fixture such as a diffuser which you have to have or it will look terrible
I can imagine diffusers in general being a pita for a garage type installation, breaking, getting dirty, not replaceable, yellowing with time, etc.
Kevin C
Well-known member
That was on of my concerns; lots of recommendations and no real world testing / experience. I started a thread on why that style of wrap light ( with a diffuser) was a bad choice and provided some measurements of their light output. Any conversation as to why they were not the best choice always seemed to turn into a ******* match.
Not sure if 2MP got a time out or a permanent ban.
Bummer on the bad advice.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231996
Somewhere in that thread is a 4 lamp T8 that worked pretty well.
wow what a great link. Thanks.
I've decided on using these for general lighting, and may add some extra lamps for task lighting.
http://www.menards.com/main/lightin...dem-t8-fluorescent-strip/p-1385175-c-7242.htm
If I had my rathers I would probably go with the coopers first but they are to narrow for my application.
I"m gonna hang 15 8' fixtures.
5 rows of 3 on the trusses which are 8' apart.
so the building will kind of look like this
wall --(28'6")--
8ft ======
8ft ======
8ft ======
8ft ======
8ft ======
wall --(28'-6")--
ceiling is white metal and the top 8 foot of the building is is white metal.
It also has 5 windows which let a lot of light in. total inside height is going to be 12' and the average working height is 4-6 feet
I've decided on using these for general lighting, and may add some extra lamps for task lighting.
http://www.menards.com/main/lightin...dem-t8-fluorescent-strip/p-1385175-c-7242.htm
If I had my rathers I would probably go with the coopers first but they are to narrow for my application.
I"m gonna hang 15 8' fixtures.
5 rows of 3 on the trusses which are 8' apart.
so the building will kind of look like this
wall --(28'6")--
8ft ======
8ft ======
8ft ======
8ft ======
8ft ======
wall --(28'-6")--
ceiling is white metal and the top 8 foot of the building is is white metal.
It also has 5 windows which let a lot of light in. total inside height is going to be 12' and the average working height is 4-6 feet
also I want to say after some thought I don't give to shits about fm reception. The radio ***** anyways plauged with adds and hard to find a good reliable station. Wifi radio on the other hand is the shizznit. Actually has some decent tunes. I dunno if I'm even going to install and FM antenae but will have wifi for sure.
armorerr
Member
Thanks for the info. I don't have a Menard's here so I will probably go with something from HD or Lowes similar to what you got. Can you explain what happened with your original choice being too narrow?
It was strictly aesthetics.
I'm using the lights to help disguise a screw line and seam on the metal ceiling.
I personally would go with the Metalux. I did a little research and they have a Philips "advance" ballast which is supposed to be good. It doesn't say it on the box or package but read on the web that the ballasts carry a 5 year warranty. The fixtures have flip up sockets and seemed to be well made.
I'm using the lights to help disguise a screw line and seam on the metal ceiling.
I personally would go with the Metalux. I did a little research and they have a Philips "advance" ballast which is supposed to be good. It doesn't say it on the box or package but read on the web that the ballasts carry a 5 year warranty. The fixtures have flip up sockets and seemed to be well made.
got my hands on 11 of the Menards fixtuers. Opened the first one up and guess what? Philips ballast! Score!
So they should have the same 5 year warranty.
The American Floursecent(menards) fixtures are wider and seem to be better made. They are also a good deal cheaper.
The American Flourscent are assembled in the USA of foreign and domestic components. They have a two year warranty.
The Coopers Metalux have a one year warranty, not sure where they are made.
Picked them up for $32.98 on sale. I'm tickled.
So they should have the same 5 year warranty.
The American Floursecent(menards) fixtures are wider and seem to be better made. They are also a good deal cheaper.
The American Flourscent are assembled in the USA of foreign and domestic components. They have a two year warranty.
The Coopers Metalux have a one year warranty, not sure where they are made.
Picked them up for $32.98 on sale. I'm tickled.
ArmyVW_GuyInTX
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sounds like a good deal!
I just put 6 RAB model RB4T5 fixtures in various parts of my shop and am very happy with the super bright T5HO tubes (chinese tubes are $3 each but I opted for the $5.42 Phillips tubes out of Europe) and the fact that as stated on the carton - there are no sharp edges anywhere on the fixture unlike the ones from the giant retail stores (comes assembled - just install tubes).
They are powdercoated white.
Fantastic lights!
http://www.rabweb.com/product.php?product=RB4T5
I just put 6 RAB model RB4T5 fixtures in various parts of my shop and am very happy with the super bright T5HO tubes (chinese tubes are $3 each but I opted for the $5.42 Phillips tubes out of Europe) and the fact that as stated on the carton - there are no sharp edges anywhere on the fixture unlike the ones from the giant retail stores (comes assembled - just install tubes).
They are powdercoated white.
Fantastic lights!
http://www.rabweb.com/product.php?product=RB4T5
Ger12
Member
Re: Menards 4 lamp T8-Anyone use??
Bought two of the Menards 96" four bulb fixtures that are on sale for $32.98. Put them up today to replace some old T12's that were on their last leg years ago. Good construction for the money. I looked at the Lithonia's at HD which were more money and flimsier. Very sharp edges and cheaply made. The Menards fixtures also came with Phillips ballasts made in Mexico. Time will tell but quite impressed so far.
Bought two of the Menards 96" four bulb fixtures that are on sale for $32.98. Put them up today to replace some old T12's that were on their last leg years ago. Good construction for the money. I looked at the Lithonia's at HD which were more money and flimsier. Very sharp edges and cheaply made. The Menards fixtures also came with Phillips ballasts made in Mexico. Time will tell but quite impressed so far.
Last edited:
Re: Menards 4 lamp T8-Anyone use??
Did you try your radio?? Do you have FM radio static??
Did you try your radio?? Do you have FM radio static??
Delta74
Well-known member
wow some good fights going on in this thread, as for the GFCI, go ahead Breaker ( easier to reach ) or Plug and feed downstream from it with added costs of Plugs and covers, based on the budget of ****** lights for 15 bucks your likely installing 69 cent plugs, with the thermal loads and constant tension holding the plug from the ceiling, they will be getting replaced in a few years.
as for the surface mounting of a HANGING fixture, there is a reason they spec DO NOT SURFACE MOUNT, its called HEAT, the ballasts get hot and the fixture was designed as a heat sink with open air space for cooling, so go ahead put them tight to the ceiling, cook the ballasts and come back and ***** about the crappy ballasts that failed.
as for the residential / commercial rating yea the commercial are a little better made, but the big difference is the RF noise, the residential ballasts are choked to help prevent screwing up your radio, where the commercial is all about performance screw the radio have something piped in for music.
as for the dimming ballasts yea I believe he has sold thousands in the last year,last commercial job I was on was 144 fixtures per floor ( 4 lamp troffers )over 20 floors ( all dimmable ) never mind all the other fixtures all letter coded for different area's ( stairs, bathrooms , common area's , office spaces ) and on top of that different K levels depending on area's.
next time your in the supermarket look at the lights and color of the tubes, the meat section will have lower K value bulbs to help the meats look redder, same idea around the seafood.
as for the surface mounting of a HANGING fixture, there is a reason they spec DO NOT SURFACE MOUNT, its called HEAT, the ballasts get hot and the fixture was designed as a heat sink with open air space for cooling, so go ahead put them tight to the ceiling, cook the ballasts and come back and ***** about the crappy ballasts that failed.
as for the residential / commercial rating yea the commercial are a little better made, but the big difference is the RF noise, the residential ballasts are choked to help prevent screwing up your radio, where the commercial is all about performance screw the radio have something piped in for music.
as for the dimming ballasts yea I believe he has sold thousands in the last year,last commercial job I was on was 144 fixtures per floor ( 4 lamp troffers )over 20 floors ( all dimmable ) never mind all the other fixtures all letter coded for different area's ( stairs, bathrooms , common area's , office spaces ) and on top of that different K levels depending on area's.
next time your in the supermarket look at the lights and color of the tubes, the meat section will have lower K value bulbs to help the meats look redder, same idea around the seafood.
Hung 6 of the Menards fixtures yesterday, still impressed with them.
Also the plug in for the ballast has an extra space for wires going out to hook your fixtures inline. The coopers did not have this.
Going to hang some more today, happy as lark with them.
Also the plug in for the ballast has an extra space for wires going out to hook your fixtures inline. The coopers did not have this.
Going to hang some more today, happy as lark with them.
Re: Menards 4 lamp T8-Anyone use??
My radio (fed through the wifi on my phone) works perfect!
FM ***** anyways I don't care about rf.
My radio (fed through the wifi on my phone) works perfect!
FM ***** anyways I don't care about rf.
How about these Metalux 6 lamp high bay fixtures ?
http://www.menards.com/main/lightin...-t8-fluorescent-high-bay/p-1805092-c-6353.htm
http://www.menards.com/main/lightin...-t8-fluorescent-high-bay/p-1805092-c-6353.htm
Gravelcowboy
New member
Got the metalux lights on a 14' ceiling (4 in a 40x50) 6500 t8 bulbs light is excellent. FM reception is horrible with the commercial ballasts that come with them!
LifeLongWNYer
Well-known member
I saw something strange Saturday, and wonder why. The local HD has Lithonia 2 bulb, 4', T8 fixtures, and it has "tandem" models of the same fixture. Those are 8' long and have 4 bulbs, each 4' long, also T8's.
But, the tandem fixture, also a Lithonia, was a little over $ 2.00 more than buying two of the 4', but separate fixtures.
Next, the "electrician on duty" told me that the tandem fixtures have only one ballast.
So, does the ballast needed to drive 4 tubes cost more than 2 ballasts which each fire 2 tubes?
But, the tandem fixture, also a Lithonia, was a little over $ 2.00 more than buying two of the 4', but separate fixtures.
Next, the "electrician on duty" told me that the tandem fixtures have only one ballast.
So, does the ballast needed to drive 4 tubes cost more than 2 ballasts which each fire 2 tubes?