Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[turbowoodworker]

Here are some details of the build.
M&T the poplar to the cherry legs. I use the router with a spiral upcut bit when I'm pressed for time then finish with a mortising chisel.
Build up some home made moldings.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Finishing the base:
Stain, then multiple coats of paint; first red then black then several coats of the final color, white. Then the wear points are distressed with sandpaper and several coats of clear go over the entire base.

 

[jimreed2160]

Turbo--Great project with clever finishing techniques.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Thanks Jim. Sorry for the goofy picture orientation. I swear they start out proper then on GJ they are flipped sideways.

This was a fun project. I generally hate finishing, probably because there are so many ways to screw it up. But this painting and purposely distressing was fun. You can't screw it up (except maybe overdoing it).

 

[bandlaw]

Turbo looks good bud! Nice work! I love the top especially!


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[turbowoodworker]

Thanks, BandLaw. Hope to get with ya in the next few weeks.

More on how I did the top:
I put down the edges and a center cross member, each with a dado to accept the ship lap/ metered boards. This fitting is a bit labor intensive and uses a lot of wood.
I used a splined miter for the edge boards as they lie flat and I wanted them to stay that way.
Again, sorry for the sideways pics.
Rick

 

[turbowoodworker]

Here is the finish I used on the top. It is a weathering compound by Varathane. I would not call it a "stain" as there are some bleaching stains on the market that do not give the same results. This is more of a chemical reaction that you can watch happen and change with multiple coats (treatments).

Varathane says to seal it with lacquer if using poly as topcoat, so I did. Then several coats of semigloss poly as it is a coffee table. I don't usually use poly and prefer the more natural look of oil, but this table will take a beating between kids and spilled nachos.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Sorry, here are the pictures:

The Varathane was as easy as stain to use, give it a try.

 

[bj383ss]

Turbo your coffee table looks great. Interesting product by Varathane. Will have to get some of that and try it.

Bret

 

[jimreed2160]

I don't usually use poly and prefer the more natural look of oil, but this table will take a beating between kids and spilled nachos.

Exactly! The best coffee table is one that you can rest your feet on while the rugrats beat on it.

 

[R_einan]

That is a great looking table turbo! Love the herringbone pattern!

 

[Gasgt1]

Pretty cool Turbo

 

[EOC_Jason]

Very cool Turbo!

One question, what is the reasoning behind putting poly on top of lacquer? Why not just use poly only?

 

[royce]

Great work Turbo and a lovely gift for your wife.
Well done

Royce

 

[bubinga]

Exactly! The best coffee table is one that you can rest your feet on while the rugrats beat on it.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This
Years ago, l made my late Great Mother, A sort of hall table out of a beautiful 1/4 sawn 0ak table top, from the auction, (It was round, and just the top), lol.....Paid a WHOLE DOLLAR.........No on wanted it. I saw beautiful stock.
She had a lacy table top thing on it, said didn't want to stretch the finish (poly) I said , mum, just use it. You're are covering that beautiful 1/4 sawn 0ak grain rays.
heck, l could of just made it out of old pallets if you're going do that.

 

[jimreed2160]

SNOW in Tallahassee !!!!!!!!

It was just a few flurries, but still counts. Of course, the shop is a 49 degree icebox so today is reserved for napping with the kitties.

 

[drivesitfar]

Turbo: nice work on the table. also your puppy sure looks HAPPY in the one picture. thanks for posting up your stains and products you used and like Jason i'm curious to know what the thinking is behind the applications if you haven't said already.

Jim: so i guess you and Craptain shouldn't have made fun of me (us) and our SNOW COMMENTS?

at least you aren't in MAINE WITH HURRICANES or the MIDWEST AND CANADA with -20--40 degree temps yet.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Thanks everyone for the kind words.
Ya, Drives, that is my wife's Bassett. He is the stinkiest, laziest dog I've ever been around.

The question on the lacquer under the poly. Well Jason and Drives, it may surprise you but I actually READ THE LABEL! I almost never follow directions because labels are for the inexperienced, right? Good thing I did because the directions state that if poly is the intended top coat then lacquer is needed before the poly. Not sure why but I am not one to argue, especially with a product I'm not familiar with. So there you go.

 

[turbowoodworker]

I mentioned how the herring bone pattern eats up wood with miters at both ends. It is also quite labor-intensive and sometimes frustrating getting a no gap process. So I ended up with a bunch of shorts from the barnwood pile and the wifey found a good use for them. That ended up as another Christmas project. Very simple and easy to put together, but if it gets me points, so be it.

She saw something similar on Pinterest and I got to work:
A simple picture hanger.


And for the stinky dog aficianados:

 

[drivesitfar]

Turbo: i bet that dog smiles if not at you i'm guessing at least to your bride if she's the one feeding it. I'd love another dog, but with the kids all out of the house now babysitting our daughter's dog a few months a year while they travel is enough and then we don't have to find anybody to watch our dog if we want to leave for a few days.

i bet the directions (yep i'm not so good at reading them either) were maybe so it could SEAL THE STAIN before you put the shine on it and in any case it looks pretty good.

Jim: still got snow?? nice and sunny up here this week!!

ALL: anybody have a favorite drill bit for drilling holes in wood 1/2 inch to an inch? i've got several different styles and some powerful drills and it's still a PITA to drill holes for bolts, electrical or plumbing.

 

[ztorres]

Turbo: i bet that dog smiles if not at you i'm guessing at least to your bride if she's the one feeding it. I'd love another dog, but with the kids all out of the house now babysitting our daughter's dog a few months a year while they travel is enough and then we don't have to find anybody to watch our dog if we want to leave for a few days.

i bet the directions (yep i'm not so good at reading them either) were maybe so it could SEAL THE STAIN before you put the shine on it and in any case it looks pretty good.

Jim: still got snow?? nice and sunny up here this week!!

ALL: anybody have a favorite drill bit for drilling holes in wood 1/2 inch to an inch? i've got several different styles and some powerful drills and it's still a PITA to drill holes for bolts, electrical or plumbing.

How big of a hole? I have some forstner bits from Milwaukee that are large diameter and self fed that is great. But the 2-9/16" bit is $50 and the 3" is $80

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[drivesitfar]

Z: holes from 3/8 to and inch on this project for bolts and wires. i've got a few forstner bits and haven't used them for that. i use the Irwin bits that look like a mining drill sort of and the old school spade bits that are a bit easier (at least for me) to sharpen, but both are a not ideal. i'll get one of my forstner bits out today and give it a try if nobody else has one they like better.

yesterday drilling with a 7/8 Irwin wood bit you would have thought i was using a mortor drill bit and my drill is an almost brand new 1/2 inch Angle style milwaukee. i've always wanted to buy a HOLE HOG Milwaukee drill, but I have 2 of these angle drills both in like new condition, several 7.5 inch grinders and a Milwaukee hammer drill and that's not including those old school ones i have that will break your arm if the bit gets stuck or cockeyed.

THANKS

 

[BMR24]

When we run pipes and wires at work we usually just use a hole saw or an auger bit. These are not the best choice if you want a nice finish though

 

[drivesitfar]

BMR: i'm not so concerned with the finished look while running wires, pipes and bolts so do you happen to know the brand of your auger bits? maybe Irwin or what brands might be better and that stay sharper longer?

i suppose i should buy a Milwaukee hole saw, but GEESH I might own 40 drills already.

thanks

 

[BMR24]

Drives
I prefer Lennox brand bits and blades. They seem to cut better and last longer than any other brand I've tried. We get them at supply houses, most of which are closed to the public, but I'm sure you can find them online. If you want a local source, Fergouson plumbing supply sells to the public I believe. Don't buy their house brand Raptor, the Lennox ones are better. Milwaukee or Irwin would be my 2nd choice.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Okay, so I was really confused and looked up each of those products you took a picture of and finally found the process mentioned on that Weathered Wood Accelerator to do that... My only thought is maybe some chemical in it reacts bad with poly so they suggest to use the varnish first.

"If you choose to topcoat with a Polyurethane, seal with Watco Laquer spray and then apply Varathane Polyurethane. Test in an inconspicuous area first. Some topcoats may continue to react with the Weathered Wood Accelerator affecting the final look."

The question on the lacquer under the poly. Well Jason and Drives, it may surprise you but I actually READ THE LABEL! I almost never follow directions because labels are for the inexperienced, right? Good thing I did because the directions state that if poly is the intended top coat then lacquer is needed before the poly. Not sure why but I am not one to argue, especially with a product I'm not familiar with. So there you go.

Forstner bits aren't really "high speed" hole makers, but they do make a nice final hole. A similar bit meant to be used in a hand drill for making quick holes is a "Self Feed Bit", it looks like a forstner with a few added bits on it... Downside is they are PRICEY!

A good quality auger bit of whatever length you need is the way to go if you are wanting to if you are wanting to make a lot of holes through some lumber for electrical or piping. Pricing is more reasonable and the auger design lets you go from board to board without stopping to clean out your bit. You might have better luck at a local Electrical or Plumbing supply store than the big-box ones.

A hole hog is a serious drill, that sucker has enough torque that if it binds and you are holding on too tight it can hurt you. You might get lucky finding and old one at a good price at a Pawn Shop. From all the negative reviews I don't think the new ones are made nearly as well... The design is so you can get between the studs of a framed up wall to drill out holes. If you don't have the space constriction and your current drills aren't stopping or bogging down then the hole hog won't net you and gain...

holes from 3/8 to and inch on this project for bolts and wires. i've got a few forstner bits and haven't used them for that. i use the Irwin bits that look like a mining drill sort of and the old school spade bits that are a bit easier (at least for me) to sharpen, but both are a not ideal. i'll get one of my forstner bits out today and give it a try if nobody else has one they like better.

yesterday drilling with a 7/8 Irwin wood bit you would have thought i was using a mortor drill bit and my drill is an almost brand new 1/2 inch Angle style milwaukee. i've always wanted to buy a HOLE HOG Milwaukee drill, but I have 2 of these angle drills both in like new condition, several 7.5 inch grinders and a Milwaukee hammer drill and that's not including those old school ones i have that will break your arm if the bit gets stuck or cockeyed.

 

[BMR24]

drives come to think of it I have herd that lee valley sells really good bits, haven't tried them though.
And the diablo brand would be better than Milwaukee.

 

[drivesitfar]

BMR: thanks for the heads up and maybe i'll sell or give away the 200 drill bits and buy a quality set that might last. it also might help me get ORGANIZED.

Jason: thanks for the 411 and yep the hole hog would be for tight spaces on existing cause i have old Black & decker, Thor and other 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch drills that could break your arm and certainly a finger or wrist if not used safely.

ALL: speaking of safely please WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES when drilling especially when it's above your head even if out front of you cause i'm now digging a chunk out of my eye cause i only had my regular glasses on.

cheers and thanks for all the tips so far!!

 

[EOC_Jason]

Greenlee auger bits are also good quality...

 

[drivesitfar]

Jason: thanks and figures Greenlee would maybe make some high quality bits cause i love their products.

ALL: speaking of Greenlee some of you might be like me that lack enough space to STORE all your wood scraps and stuff and Greenlee job boxes are AWESOME and can be stored out alongside your house or on the corner of your property if you don't want to clutter up your shop. maybe not heated, but they keep stuff dry.

 

[jimreed2160]

Drives--I am impatient and often blow out the back side of the hole when I drill in a hurry. Whenever I slow down, I use a sacrificial backer to drill into and get much better results. When drilling studs for wires, you could clamp a 2x4 scrap to the back and get better results with your spade bits. Electricians will laugh because this would never work on the job. But I assume you are working at your own leisurely pace and can devote time to neatness.

 

[drivesitfar]

JIM: usually a LEISURELY PACE, but this month i'm cleaning out one of my 20x20 storage units and taking off for a few days for the Oregon Coast to celebrate our 30th Anniversary.

that said at least it's not snowing here this week.

thanks for the tips and sounds like even with better bits i'll probably use your tip of the back board to make cleaner holes.

 

[Notgrownup]

I mentioned how the herring bone pattern eats up wood with miters at both ends. It is also quite labor-intensive and sometimes frustrating getting a no gap process. So I ended up with a bunch of shorts from the barnwood pile and the wifey found a good use for them. That ended up as another Christmas project. Very simple and easy to put together, but if it gets me points, so be it.

She saw something similar on Pinterest and I got to work:
A simple picture hanger.


And for the stinky dog aficianados:

That dog picture is priceless...

 

[turbowoodworker]

Notgrownup, I will gladly sell you the whole dog for one half of "priceless". I just have to wait for my wife to leave the house long enough to convince her he "ran away"! Just kidding of course.

 

[jimreed2160]

Notgrownup, I will gladly sell you the whole dog for one half of "priceless". I just have to wait for my wife to leave the house long enough to convince her he "ran away"! Just kidding of course.

Ha. Back when The Queen and I were discussing our merger she asked me what I thought about her cats. They were two black beasts with glowing yellow eyes and bad attitudes to match. I responded that they "couldn't live forever." Well, they managed to spread misery for about ten more uncomfortable years.

 

[jimreed2160]

Japanese chisel roll

It is still too chilly in the garage to work but I did have time for a single shot. I know there is a controversy over chisel rolls. Some like them and some hate them. Do you get single side or double sided? And the users debate over how to store--end in pocket or handle in pocket. Well, like many other topics, I have some strong opinions on that subject.

Let's start with the storage protocol--edge in pocket or handle in pocket. I once received a used set of Japanese chisels in a nice leather roll. Too bad that one of the pockets had a big HOLE in it. WRONG way to store. Cutting edge in pocket will always lead to snags and holes if the chisels are sharp enough to do their job.

And I really like the double sided rolls. They hold more chisels and are really handy when it comes time to use the chisels. Just put a 2x4 scrap on the workbench and lay the roll on top. Your chisels will be presented for use.

So here is my tip of the day with a photo. Looking for 72 degrees on Tuesday so I think shoptime is in my future.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Cutting edge in pocket will always lead to snags and holes...

Only if you don't know what you're doing.

Use a tightly fitted plastic tip protector.

 

[Swingpress]

There is something in the pay it forward thread I hope someone here can use.

 

[cheechi]

I've sen people get hurt with chisel rolls being used the way you have yours Jim. One was a wood chisel, another was a pin punch, both occasions resulted in stitches. I realize your tools in your shop are not going to surprise you, but I like to do things so that I don't have to do any babysitting or first aid when people are in my shop.

I don't like wrench rolls either. I appreciate the utility of tool rolls generally just never been a fan.

 

[turbowoodworker]

My first thought at seeing Jim's idea for propping up the tool roll was that it was a cool idea. My second thought was how many times I would impale myself grabbing for one chisel.

But in your garage, you do what you are comfortable with.

I inherited a bunch of good quality chisels and wood carving tools, many in tool rolls. They were from my godfather, an experienced woodcarver. They came all with the handle in the roll, cutting end up, so that is how I have always kept them.