ez-duzit
Well-known member
t--thank you. This isn't for kids. 
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
RickP
Well-known member
Kids are too impatient!t--thank you. This isn't for kids.
That cabinetry work looks really good -- your patience shows! Very clever use of the tube and cleat for easily removing the head. I've experienced the unpleasantness of a marine head once or twice, and moving it to the cockpit for repairs is definitely the way to go.
What he said !
I am 67 and I for sure thought you were younger than me.
I reckon between you and Bob H. there's no thinking 'what CAN I do' , and just go on and do 'er .
Good on Ya
BobL.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Thanks fellas.
Besides the 79 years, I am partially disabled from a fractured pelvis and calcaneus, with some hardware in my ankle. And arthritis pain is just something to live with. Not complaining. I truly feel blessed that I can still remain active and do my work.
Can't remember if I posted a photo of my boat, which is the reason for this project. It is a 43' sportfish built by President Yachts in 1983. Fiberglass, twin Volvo 6-cyl diesels
Besides the 79 years, I am partially disabled from a fractured pelvis and calcaneus, with some hardware in my ankle. And arthritis pain is just something to live with. Not complaining. I truly feel blessed that I can still remain active and do my work.
Can't remember if I posted a photo of my boat, which is the reason for this project. It is a 43' sportfish built by President Yachts in 1983. Fiberglass, twin Volvo 6-cyl diesels
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
@ez-duzit, that's how I feel as well, even though I'm only 78. Without arthritis I might never wake up -- pain lets you know you're still alive.
Your sportfisher is gorgeous. The paint on the hull looks like Awlgrip or Interlux. Do you paint the hull or farm it out? It's amazing in either case.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
B--thank you.
The photo was taken immediately after a professional rolled and tipped Awlgrip on the topsides. They did an awesome job.
Getting results like this is expensive. It takes weeks of man-hours just to prep it. Then meticulous application. A true professional gets this kind of result consistently.
The photo was taken immediately after a professional rolled and tipped Awlgrip on the topsides. They did an awesome job.
Getting results like this is expensive. It takes weeks of man-hours just to prep it. Then meticulous application. A true professional gets this kind of result consistently.
Bob out here again showing off the incredible range of topics he's knowledgeable on!
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Bonded the full-size tiles into place using 3M 5200 fast dry. will caulk them all once the other two are installed. Caulked the gaps at the medicine cabinet using same. Bonded the sink into place using 3M 4000 UV. Mounted the LED vanity lights, but not yet wired. Installed the toilet control module to cover a damaged area in the Formica over the sink. Also got some epoxy on the bare wood where the toilet mounts.
Greetings and Ahoy:
Looks like it needs the extra 7ft added to the stern...
I used to own a sailboat in MDR for a while. Back when the slips were smaller. And, the flight attendants from LAX were cuter. Known as, Stewardesses...
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
John, some of us passengers were cuter back then as well. Then we started pooping on the trolleys.
RickP
Well-known member
That 3M 5200 is amazing stuff. I never thought to use it on tile.
Your work looks good as always -- looks almost finished too.
Bob, I had several buddies of mine talk of spending more time with their boats at the pump out dock than anywhere else because of the stewardesses spending time aboard between flights. MDR harbor is about a 10 min. cab ride north of LAX. Less, if the slip is located east. If not at a club, each dock had toilets and shower facilities. But, still a problem. Especially for the married guys or those that didn't get down the harbor frequently. Both CYC and DRYC had a discreet maintenance program to take care of such issues but dock-masters talk if they see flygirls aboard and don't get enough
bonus. A club perk that may still exist. There is a reason why it's called a pleasure craft.All heard first hand while riding the rail on various racing yachts. And there is more:
I must say, the differences between the different harbors (Santa Barbara, Ventura, King Harbor, LA, Alamitos, Newport, Dana Pt., San Diego, etc.) were significant. On any given day MDR by far, had the most chicks on the bows of any of the stinkpots that were out for a bay cruise. A consistently frequent topic of discussion among race boat crews.. We even invited while on the water and met a few at post race festivities, had drinks with, on repeated occasions. At the time, advised that if they want to increase a chance to again be aboard (1st Mate) on this or that big yacht they should stow their fenders while underway and, make use of the shore-side facilities whenever possible. Good advice to this day even.
Added tidbit: The MDR boat is known all over the world for leaving its fenders out. You go to Catalina Is.? You see that boat on the mooring, with fenders hanging on the side? It is from MDR. Guaranteed. Just check the stern. You are welcome.
Never heard anything about 'pooping on the trolleys' though. Maybe a Florida thing?
Good luck,
John McA
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
John, I was referring to this 1995 story (possible urban legend):
In 1995 Gerard B.Finneran, the 58-year-old head of an investment-banking firm, was seated in the first-class cabin on a United Airlines flight from Buenos Aires to New York. Taking advantage of the free liquor being served in that section of the plane, Finneran proceeded to get very, very drunk. When a concerned flight attendant refused to give him another glass of wine, Finneran took charge of the situation and began serving himself drinks from the beverage cart. When informed that it was against regulations for passengers to get their own drinks, an infuriated Finneran told the flight attendant that he was going to "bust [his] ***."
When the threat failed to achieve Finneran's desired result, he resorted to plan B: going berserk, terrifying passengers, knocking over crew members, and then grabbing drinks and pouring them over his body. He topped off the show with an educational demonstration of primate dominance, by clambering onto the beverage cart that had been placed off-limits to him and evacuating his bowels on it, using the first-class linen napkins (and his fingers) to wipe his hindquarters. According to the criminal complaint filed against him, this captain of industry then proceeded to clean his fingers by walking up and down the aisles, "track[ing] feces throughout the aircraft."
In court, Finneran, pleaded guilty as charged, but his legal team claimed that the entire incident was a misunderstanding. Their client, they explained, had contracted a severe case of traveler's diarrhea, but couldn't use the first-class lavatories because they had been barricaded by assistants to the president of Portugal, who was also on the flight. In this situation, they argued, what choice did Finneran have but to defecate on the beverage cart?
Wow. Never heard of this. The return flight is always the long one. Captains are an interesting bunch. Smart Lawyers Too. Investment bankers generally have nice looking wives and generally hot daughters so, the behavior is understandable, to some degree as it gets passed on to the progeny. Explains a lot of rich daddy daughter recorded behavior.
Wonder if he owned a big yacht on the west coast? This is the MDR kind of guy who wouldn't bother with his fenders either I suspect..
cycle61
Well-known member
Working on ceiling ribs for the cargo van I'm converting to a camper. Intent is for these to bolt up to the metal roof ribs, and support strips running lengthwise. Raw material was the cheap 6' cedar fence boards at the big box store. Ripped down to a pair of 2.5" wide strips, planed to about 1/4" thick, and glued together two layers on a curve to make the approximate shape of the roof contour. This one is my practice sample, and despite spreading the glue out to a thin layer and putting every clamp I own on it, the two pieces didn't glue up tightly, there's at least a mm gap between the boards.
Open to input on how to get these glued up better.
Open to input on how to get these glued up better.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Why do you think it did that, not holding? Do you suppose the spring clamps are not enough?
Ive usually seen this work done in even thinner laminations against a fixture with screw clamps. Also, I think you are using a PVA glue? Maybe a glue with a longer open time would be better, ie. Polyurethane, Gorilla type?
Ive usually seen this work done in even thinner laminations against a fixture with screw clamps. Also, I think you are using a PVA glue? Maybe a glue with a longer open time would be better, ie. Polyurethane, Gorilla type?
cycle61
Well-known member
The spring clamps definitely didn't compress it enough to get any squeeze-out, and although I spread the glue out before putting the pieces together, it clearly didn't work. Building an actual clamping fixture now instead of just bending the pieces around a couple pegs in the MFT. Glue was Titebond 3.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Titebond 2 is my go to for almost all my woodworking, but in this case I might recommend a longer, much longer open time like Gorrila glue. TB 3 is good but only a little longer working time.
Im only thinking out loud here so I may be wrong, but most laminations are made of thinner pieces. There may be too much pent up energy in 1/4” slats.
I’m watching cause this will be an interesting fix and would love to see what you are doing with the van.
Im only thinking out loud here so I may be wrong, but most laminations are made of thinner pieces. There may be too much pent up energy in 1/4” slats.
I’m watching cause this will be an interesting fix and would love to see what you are doing with the van.
cycle61
Well-known member
I don't think this was a case of too much spring in the wood, the pieces bent very easily by hand. I think I just failed to apply enough compression to the stack as I bent and clamped it.
cycle61
Well-known member
I don't have a thread here, and not sure what the protocol is for posting links to other forums.
cycle61's Adventure Van build
Yesterday, after a couple years of looking, hoping, planning, and dreaming, my wife and I bought an van to convert to a four season camper. Our platform of choice is a Ford Transit AWD, 148" HR. The one we purchased was used, private party, but had less than a thousand miles on the clock...
www.fordtransitusaforum.com
ez-duzit
Well-known member
The problem is not with bending around the pegs--it is that the clamps are inadequate.
Also it is never advisable to laminate anything with fewer than 3 laminations.
Also it is never advisable to laminate anything with fewer than 3 laminations.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Fabricated, fitted and installed the Formica-covered panels for the ceiling and window surround. The ceiling panel was made from 1/8" veneered plywood, as it has to conform to quite a bit of curvature in the overhead. Fitting it was an especially challenging task as it had to be carefully fitted between existing teak trim on three sides. That trim is permanently glued in place. You can just see the short wires sticking out that are embedded in the original ceiling; these are for an overhead 12-volt light and must be extended to make the final connection.
The window surround was less fussy as there will be teak inner window frame and lower moldings applied later.
The window surround was less fussy as there will be teak inner window frame and lower moldings applied later.
SteveL
Well-known member
If you were going to build a bunch of cabinets out of melamine, what tools, accessories, would you want in addition to a good table saw, Festool track saw, Kreg Foreman pocket hole machine, good router table and plenty of clamps? I’m contemplating building my own garage cabinets and have a fairly well equipped shop, but think that I could make life a lot easier if I had items like a good MFT table, parallel guides for the track saw, maybe a Festool Domino instead of the pocket hole screws.
What would be your must have items to tackle making close to 20 cabinets, some of them full height lockers and some with very shallow, tool box type drawers? All but four would be the same depth at 18” while the other four would be 24” deep. Here’s a rendering of what I want to do.
What would be your must have items to tackle making close to 20 cabinets, some of them full height lockers and some with very shallow, tool box type drawers? All but four would be the same depth at 18” while the other four would be 24” deep. Here’s a rendering of what I want to do.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
You don't need a Domino, MFT, parallel guides... to build garage cabinets.
I have a rather complete shop, but have none of those.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
Steve: To be honest about it, if I had all the tools you already listed what I would most need to complete your shop cabinet build is:
1) Lots of shop time available,.
2) Persistence.
A good knowledge of jigs would be helpful too. Good luck to you.
1) Lots of shop time available,.
2) Persistence.
A good knowledge of jigs would be helpful too. Good luck to you.
LeeG
Well-known member
Steve,
I have all those. The Domino is nice, but it is much slower than pocket holes with the Foreman. I’d be concerned about the holding power of pocket screws in MDF, so the Domino might be a better choice.
I use my MFT all the time, but it really isn’t big enough to be useful for cabinets. The parallel guides (I have several, but today would probably get the ones from TSO. I use my parallel guides a lot, it still prefer my table saw for mass production accuracy.
I build all my cabinets using Baltic Birch, but that stuff is crazy expensive now. Let me know if you have any specific questions.
Lee
SteveL
Well-known member
I have a lot of #1 as I’m retired but #2 could be a problem!
Have had ADHD all my life and struggle to completely finish projects. That’s why I was thinking that setting up my 7’ outfeed table as an MFT and using the TSO parallel guides and dog stops would make the production work of cutting parts a lot easier. I tend to spend too much time changing set ups when I could set up the MFT to cut a bunch of the same size parts at a time. I’m accepting that this will take me a long time to do but the easier I make it the more likely that it will get finished. Especially once golf season starts up again as I tend to play 3-4 per week.My wife of 46 years is trying to talk me out of this but I’m having a hard time paying $10k plus for cabinets that will end up looking like they belong in a laundry room. Have not been able to find a decent steel or MDF cabinet that’s available in 18” depth with shallow drawers for tools.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
@SteveL, many years ago I did the kitchen cabinets in our last home. The companies that slapped a fresh layer of Formica on an 8' galley kitchen wanted $3,000 and that was back in the late '70s. The Almond (1/32") and Oak mica (in 1/32 and 1/16) plus glue and hardware (European hinges) cost me $300.
I splurged another $100 for a slitter so I could make all the edge and face banding with less waste (and a perfectly square edge) compared to a saw. You can buy edge banding that has hot glue already applied but it has never held as well for me as old fashioned contact cement. Every door and drawer had a 2.25" oak strip on the face and every edge had matching strips.
These are available for more or less but here's a link to Amazon:
cycle61
Well-known member
1) I wouldn't use melamine. It tends to be the low density particleboard that's good for nothing other than saving homebuilders money. If this is for a space you intend to use long-term, I would go with good MDF or plywood and then laminate it.
2) The Festool track saw is awesome for working with sheet goods. I haven't wrestled a 4x8 across my table saw since buying mine, and the quality of my work has improved substantially.
3) I don't find the MFT table particularly useful. Maybe I just haven't spent enough time adjusting my workflow to it. If you're going to use a track saw, I highly recommend a set of track squares like the TSO GRS-16.
4) The Domino is awesome, but it's not fast and there's definitely a learning curve
5) Pocket screws are fast and easy, but not very strong in particleboard/MDF. Great in plywood.
56vette461
Well-known member
I have to agree with using MDF or plywood however melamine is a good shelving if I do not want a specific paint color for my finish. I have been using my biscuit cutter and beechwood biscuits and glue for several years and find they make strong well aligned joints for my cabinet projects.
SteveL
Well-known member
Already have the TSO track square and their precision triangle, both awesome items, and plan on getting their parallel guides. I do have a biscuit cutter that would likely be just as good as the Domino if I go the MDF or Melamine route. Only reason I would use the Melamine is for carcasses and shelves to avoid the need for painting. All cabinets will ultimately be screwed together and anchored to the wall. Doors and drawer fronts would be MDF as I plan on painting instead of laminating. Really don’t like the hard edges that laminate creates.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Figured out that I could miter the corner tiles, myself, using the Dremel and diamond wheel. So I got those installed and caulked all the tiles using 3M 4000 UV. That allowed me then to mount the faucet and soap dispenser. A work in progress, but mounting that hardware makes it really come together finally.
Also picked up a double-rocker switch (so I can turn on the vanity lights individually) and cut the hole in the bulkhead.
Also picked up a double-rocker switch (so I can turn on the vanity lights individually) and cut the hole in the bulkhead.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Fabricated the adapter out of stainless, using 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT bushings, and mounted the Grohe thermostatic shower control valve.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Got the interior window frame and lower molding fabricated and installed.
RickP
Well-known member
Your woodworking looks really good on the interior trim.
Very interesting way to mount NPT adapters -- clever.
Almost finished!
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Thanks.
The NPT bushings I faced on the lathe to provide a wide, clean surface to seal against. Then I flipped them, end for end, and turned down a 1" diameter shoulder, on the hex end, to fit in 1" holes in the back plate. These were then welded on the back side. 1/2" NPT x 2-1/2" ******* with street ells install from the back to connect the plumbing.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Began another project before doing the varnish on the new woodwork in the head and guest cabin.
The tackle cabinet in the cockpit had to be sacrificed in order to provide enough space to store 2 propane tanks. The boat came from the builder with an electric Jenn-Air range, which a previous owner replaced with a gas stove. But there was never an approved storage cabinet for the tanks. Because propane is heavier than air, there is potentially great danger if a gas leak occurs on a boat, as the gas then tends to fill up the vessel, possibly leading to a terrific explosion. So ABYC standards dictate that propane tanks be stored in a sealed, top-opening locker which must be located outside the living space, and drain overboard.
In order to insure an effective seal, I designed a wooden hatch that will accept a soft rubber gasket which will mate against a standing ring of 1/8" aluminum flat bar. The ring attaches to a wooden frame (shown to the right in the first photo) which will itself be attached to the top of the cabinet, edging the access hole to be cut.
The hatch is built up from a piece of 3/4" ply with a doubler of 1/2" ply which has the seal groove routed into it. The edge of the ply which will mount the hinge has a solid wood edging to accept the hinge screws. The other 3 edges receive the frame members. Everything goes together with biscuits and epoxy. There are no fasteners except for a few brads to hold the 2 plywood parts together while the epoxy cures.
After shaping, the hatch will be fiberglassed on the outside and coated with epoxy before painting.
The tackle cabinet in the cockpit had to be sacrificed in order to provide enough space to store 2 propane tanks. The boat came from the builder with an electric Jenn-Air range, which a previous owner replaced with a gas stove. But there was never an approved storage cabinet for the tanks. Because propane is heavier than air, there is potentially great danger if a gas leak occurs on a boat, as the gas then tends to fill up the vessel, possibly leading to a terrific explosion. So ABYC standards dictate that propane tanks be stored in a sealed, top-opening locker which must be located outside the living space, and drain overboard.
In order to insure an effective seal, I designed a wooden hatch that will accept a soft rubber gasket which will mate against a standing ring of 1/8" aluminum flat bar. The ring attaches to a wooden frame (shown to the right in the first photo) which will itself be attached to the top of the cabinet, edging the access hole to be cut.
The hatch is built up from a piece of 3/4" ply with a doubler of 1/2" ply which has the seal groove routed into it. The edge of the ply which will mount the hinge has a solid wood edging to accept the hinge screws. The other 3 edges receive the frame members. Everything goes together with biscuits and epoxy. There are no fasteners except for a few brads to hold the 2 plywood parts together while the epoxy cures.
After shaping, the hatch will be fiberglassed on the outside and coated with epoxy before painting.
RickP
Well-known member
Nice looking hatch design. I like how the double gasket sandwiches the aluminum ring to keep out water.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
R--thanks. Here's the hatch now after a little shaping and the installation of its piano hinge. Did a trial fit at the boat to sneak up on the final size and location of the hinge. I will trial-fit it again at the boat to make certain of the final dimensions prior to fiberglassing the outside.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Made a bit more progress on the head. The cabinet door behind the toilet flips up on a stainless piano hinge to serve as an extension of the sink counter. Saw slots provide ventilation. The stainless handle doubles as a sea rail to keep your Dopp kit from sliding off. There is a small stainless ball catch to keep the door closed. And a stainless spring strut to prop it open. The blue tape means I am about to begin varnishing.
Also replaced the damaged Formica in the shower. Still a small piece of trim to install.
Also replaced the damaged Formica in the shower. Still a small piece of trim to install.
Last edited: