Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[jar944]

For me it's whatever is cheap (and not ring porous) at the time, since my wife really only likes painted wood. So in my case it's mostly poplar.

Im personally not a fan of the smell when cutting or look of red oak
I really like hickory/pecan except for the splinters, and the wear on tooling (compared to domestics).
There is something about the smell of birch that instantly brings back memories of childhood. I love that smell.

 

[drivesitfar]

Jar: i hear you on the smells and our childhood. i love the smell of CEDAR and especially fresh cut. i told the owner of one of the cedar mills that one day and he said he didn't even notice the cedar smells, but what he really liked was when they would cut up some old growth fir. my Gramps used to come home from work and after dinner would go out and maybe cut a square or two or more of shakes to sell to friends and clients to roof their homes.

are you doing anything to keep the poplar from cracking like painting the ends or is anything needed with that type of wood. it looks AWESOME. how long do you have to let it sit before you can use it? i'm guessing 3 months?

 

[jar944]

Jar: i hear you on the smells and our childhood. i love the smell of CEDAR and especially fresh cut. i told the owner of one of the cedar mills that one day and he said he didn't even notice the cedar smells, but what he really liked was when they would cut up some old growth fir. my Gramps used to come home from work and after dinner would go out and maybe cut a square or two or more of shakes to sell to friends and clients to roof their homes.

are you doing anything to keep the poplar from cracking like painting the ends or is anything needed with that type of wood. it looks AWESOME. how long do you have to let it sit before you can use it? i'm guessing 3 months?

I should have painted the ends, but the wood had been down for a few months before we got to it and had already started to check.

As for drying time it's species, thickness and airflow dependent. 4/4 poplar can get to equilibrium moisture content in 90 to 120 days under ideal Air drying conditions. In this case the stack is too close to the wall for good airflow, so after a year it's still not usable. The thicker boards will take substantially longer (the 12/4 slabs will likely take a few years in addition to better air flow.

 

[bj383ss]

Morning Woodies,

TerraNova glad to see you join. Enjoy your dad's stuff. I have a lot of my grandpas tools and like to think he enjoys watching me use them.

My favorite woods are Mahogany cause you don't have to stain it. Just put a clear coat on and its done. Second is Walnut and Maple. All 3 of those are my expensive ones. I also like Pecan it is relatively cheap down here it is everywhere in Texas. I also will use Poplar for structure pieces like drawer sides and what not. It does not stain well because of the green in it. At least the stuff I get around here.

And I would have to say Cabinet grade plywood is my favorite building medium because its all uniform and you don't have to worry about wood movement with it too much. I have a bunch that is pre finished and that really speeds projects up.

Everyone have a good T-day. No woodworking today going to start hanging Christmas lights. I do have some wooden Christmas tree décor I need to make for the front porch. I made these 3 pumpkins for fall so now my wife thinks she needs something for every season. HA

20160910_185938 by bjohnson388, on Flickr

 

[vartz04]

Well I just got my Makita track saw yesterday. I went back and forth 100 times, either sell my little Bosch GTS1031 and buy a bigger saw that could handle sheet goods, or get the track saw and keep the GTS1031. In the end i decided the track saw was safer than using the table saw, and if i had to break it down with a circular saw first and then recut it on the table saw that was a big waste of time and wood. I still need the table saw to cut little parts and narrow rips but i bet i end up using it and my worm drive circular saw quite a bit less

Now I just need to go get the OSB i need to finish my ceiling to "learn" on and then i can build myself some new shop cabinets that are custom sized and make the most of my tiny 12x20 workshop.

Any one else have a track saw?


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[ez-duzit]

Found my Festool track saw kit on c/l for $350. It has truly revolutionized my shop. Added a 10' track which I use for ripping full sheets of plywood and straightening the raw edges of lumber. WAY worth the money!

 

[vartz04]

Found my Festool track saw kit on c/l for $350. It has truly revolutionized my shop. Added a 10' track which I use for ripping full sheets of plywood and straightening the raw edges of lumber. WAY worth the money!

I couldn't spring for the long track. Too much $ for now. I have two of the 55" and the connector kit. I'll keep an eye out for a deal or a used 118" track as I can see the benifits of that.

 

[jar944]

I picked up the Makita track saw a few years ago. It's a fantastic addition to any shop. I'll often cut sheets on the truck as long as I have a cut list.

 

[jar944]

I couldn't spring for the long track. Too much $ for now. I have two of the 55" and the connector kit. I'll keep an eye out for a deal or a used 118" track as I can see the benifits of that.

When the Makita 118 was $200 with free shipping it was worth it. Now it's 200 with $100 to $150 in shipping or $300 shipped from some places. For those prices the $350 festool option makes sense to me.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Turkey Day.
This is the first time this thread has taken a breather since inception.
Good job folks. Great thread.

 

[drivesitfar]

ALL: thanks for all the help with the BOARD FOOT vs. BY THE FOOT pricing. when i eventually get my Shopsmith and other tools set up and start trying to make some things I'm sure i'll find different sources for good wood products. unfortunately we have a lot of raw material here, but a TON of it gets shipped to Asia last time i checked.

so here's some cool little wood bins i've found and since i love this kind of stuff i'm either going to put up shelving to hold them or make a cabinet. anybody make these and/or a cabinet to hold them please post details and LOTS of PICTURES.

hope you all had a good day yesterday and other than a few extra pieces of homemade almond roca and molasses cookies i escaped without too much damage to my waist line.

cheers

 

[Craptain]

I had Thanksgiving with friends yesterday and saw this box which I had made for the hostess several years ago, so I took a quick picture. While I was thinking boxes I also took a couple of pics of another box that i made as a practice piece around the same time. Both are made mainly from Lacewood, which I find very attractive, and use other woods which I can't remember offhand. Boxes can be made by several different methods. What I did (simplified version) is glue top, bottom and sides together and then cut off the "lid" with my table saw. Now that I have a decent bandsaw I would use that instead.

As my skills slowly improve I expect to make a few more boxes using different joints and decorations. Then move on to different shapes. I have an almost unlimited variety of woods available as I rent my shop space from a specialist Lumber yard. I also have access to his equipment when mine is not up to the job as the owner and his family are personal friends.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Craptain: Nice work on that box! I have only made one so far - a toy box - but I'm beginning to think that they could become addicting.

To ALL: Think what you could do with this combination lathe and bench.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Think what you could do with this combination lathe and bench.

Bench tops must remain clear.

 

[Slednut]

We were told by OSHA to destroy an oak ladder we had at work. I dismantled it, filled the holes (used a plug cutter) and made these folding door frames. I used ¼ inch ply wood for the panels so they would be light enough for the existing hardware.

The second photo shows the plug.

 

[Shoottx]

Dang

I get busy and don't log on for a while and boom, a woodworking thread with some old friends, from other woodworking forums.

Yup, I have to admit I am a bit of a wood worker.

As soon as I figure out uploading pictures I'll ad some

 

[cheechi]

Can someone with some bandsaw experience explain choosing the right blade? Is it just TPI for the material, and then you may need a few thicknesses in the right tooth count? Or is the combination of TPI & thickness how you choose? how does type of cut enter into it?

I have a 14" PC model, doubt it could handle a 3/4. manual says max of 1/2 but I bet it could do a 5/8 like the Delta its based on.

 

[ez-duzit]

Your saw takes up to 1/2" wide blade.

Unless you're cutting thin wood or veneers, there's no need for very fine pitches.

Most of my bandsawing seems to be re-sawing--making thin boards out of thick ones. For that I use a carbide blade on my 20" bandsaw. For this, the coarser the pitch, the better.

 

[cheechi]

that's interesting, kind of the opposite I expected. is that why I see a lot of 3 & 6 TPI blades? Generally with other types of saws, higher tooth count gives you a smoother cut. Do you always expect to hit a planer or jointer after a resaw?

For resawing, you want a 1/2" blade then? or is a thinner one going to benefit you?

I honestly don't know how much of what I use it for will be resaw but I don't know a lot in general about it yet.

 

[ez-duzit]

For resawing stick with your max blade width--1/2". After resawing I often run it through the thickness plane. You can belt sand or leave it alone too.

 

[bj383ss]

that's interesting, kind of the opposite I expected. is that why I see a lot of 3 & 6 TPI blades? Generally with other types of saws, higher tooth count gives you a smoother cut. Do you always expect to hit a planer or jointer after a resaw?

For resawing, you want a 1/2" blade then? or is a thinner one going to benefit you?

I honestly don't know how much of what I use it for will be resaw but I don't know a lot in general about it yet.

Cheechi,

I have a 3/8" Timberwolf blade on my saw. Link here http://www.woodcraft.com/product/83...aw-blade-9312-x-38-x-3-tpi-alternate-set.aspx It is a little bit more than the blades at Lowe's or HD, but the quality is so much better. It will last you along time. And when it gets dull you will know!

I resaw, cut curves, crosscut. I do everything with this blade. I am too lazy to change the blade. I have a 1/2" timberwolf as well and if I was going to do a lot of resawing I would switch to it. But I find this 3/8" blade can do just about everything else.

If you are going to resaw you also need to be able to set your fence up for drift or make you a resaw fence.

Bret

 

[Craptain]

That's the same blade I use, and like you once I mounted it it gets used for pretty much everything.

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[Shoottx]

Band saw blades are interesting, like other saw blades the more teeth the finer the finish, but the slower the feed rate of the material through the saw.

Width of blades tends to indicate stability of the blade, and the tightness of the circular cuts. Or the wider the blade, the better for straight cuts, the narrower the blade, the better for circular cuts,

Of course all of the above is predicated on a well set and great running saw.

Mike

Still using a 1949 Craftsman 12in Bandsaw

 

[jimreed2160]

Terranova--Welcome aboard. Sorry to hear about your dad. I have been acquiring tools since I was a teenager, so by now I have lots of tools from craftsmen of yore. Some I knew and some I didn't. And yes, my dad's tools are sometimes sad to use. But they live on and nothing is happier than an old tool that is working.

My head is much better and I plan to post another tutorial tomorrow. It is 70 degrees today and the shop is a dream climate right now. Finish up that turkey hash and get ready for making sawdust.

 

[Craptain]

Well I decided to share my plane collection. They are mostly users but the 4 and the 9 1/2 (low angle adjustable throat) are the most popular, along with the smallest un-named one. Farthest away is a home made wooden plane which I cannot get into adjustment. Then #7 #5 #4 a selection of low angle planes and my Japanese plane which I am learning to use and appreciate. I also threw in a couple of spokeshaves and a couple of draw knives.



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[turbowoodworker]

+1 on the 3/8" Timberwolf. Far superior to big box stuff.

 

[jimreed2160]

Craptain--Thanks for the class photo. That's a nice looking group of handplanes. I did notice quite a bit of empty space on your table. It is a little known fact that planes left together in the dark tend to multiply...

As for bandsaw blades, I agree on the Timberwolf. It is my favorite. I like to keep a few spares around. Most bs cutting problems can be cured by changing the blade. I use my bs all the time and cut stuff from firewood to plastic. Sometimes the blade lasts for years--sometimes only months. Once it starts to wander in the cut it comes off and is replaced.

 

[Craptain]

Jim. There are more already. But I just showed the one's I use or at least try to use. I guess in one sense I could have also added my various scrapers and even some of my chisels as they are all used to smooth or flatten wood and produce shavings.

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[cheechi]

Band saw blades are interesting, like other saw blades the more teeth the finer the finish, but the slower the feed rate of the material through the saw.

Width of blades tends to indicate stability of the blade, and the tightness of the circular cuts. Or the wider the blade, the better for straight cuts, the narrower the blade, the better for circular cuts,

Of course all of the above is predicated on a well set and great running saw.

Mike

Still using a 1949 Craftsman 12in Bandsaw

Perfect! thanks.

+1 on the 3/8" Timberwolf. Far superior to big box stuff.

I'm going to have to get one of these timber wolf blades. For now I have two blades. The 1/2" x 7 (?) tpi that came with the saw, and a USA made 1/4 x 14 tpi 'super cut' from HF. haven't yet taken the stock blade off, jus picked up a smaller to have options and play around.

If your Lowes stocks the bandsaw, they probably have one boxed in stock, sitting on its side (this end up?) they use as a table. I am sure the saw I got is that one and not one stocked in the back or above since I got all manner of extra junk in the box with it. Anyway, it's supposed to be fully set up out of the box (which I was going to at least check anyway) but it was way off. I've had it about 3 weeks now and today is the first time I plugged in because I was in the middle of other projects so I didn't have time to check it all out after I put it on the base.

I set it up like this and it works great.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wGbZqWac0jU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I've only ever used horizontal bandsaws on steel & Al stock before. as it's cutting mine is significantly louder than his in the video, but no noise when it's just running not cutting. Do new blades or tires take a while to break in?

 

[jimreed2160]

Cheechi--I keep a pair of ear muffs hanging on my bs because I do not like the noise. But your bs should not be much louder when cutting. Try to find out where the noise is coming from. Here are some things to check.

Blade--The blade needs to be tight. Some ww tighten the blade for use and then let the tension off. That is too fiddly for me so I tighten mine at about 80%. If it is too loose, it will wobble and make noise.

Rear blade support--There should be a support behind your blade. Maybe called a thruster or something like that. It supports the blade when you push your work too hard. Many saws have a wheel which spins when engaged. It is normal to spin the wheel, but make sure it is lubricated.

Side blade supports--There are side supports (called guides) which keep your blade straight and keep it from deflecting from side to side. Adjust these so that there is about a dollar bill's worth of clearance on each. Sometimes these blocks are steel and they make noise. Sometimes they are composite and that is quiet. Some ww replace these blocks with hard maple. I replaced mine with roller bands (blocks with little wheels) and they work great. When engaged, they sing.

Blade--Most bs problems are due to the blade. Make sure you have a quality blade. It should be sharp and clean.

Good luck tracking down your noise.

 

[jimreed2160]

Shiplap joints
Today's topic is the shiplap joint. It is a simple joint used to edge joint two boards. To make it, you run a rabbet on the right side of one face and another rabbet on the left side but on the back. When you put two shiplapped boards together, the opposite rabbets interlock and create a joint that stops dust, air, and sometimes water. I like to use shiplap joints of the backs of case goods. It keeps out the dust and gives my project an upgrade from plywood. Here is the back of a secretary where I used shiplap boards.

I start with a 4" furring strip and split it on the bandsaw.

There are many planes that you can use to cut a rabbet. It just needs a blade that goes all the way to the edge. So, of course, bench planes are out. I like my LN 140 because it has a fence and it has a skewed blade. Here is a shot of the bottoms of a Preston 311 shoulder plane and the LN 140.

Right on the bat, I discover a problem. The LN fence will not cut anything narrower than a 1/2" rabbet. But I want a 3/8". OK, no problem, just make a fence.

Clamp the board on the bench and plane away. Here is one rabbet done. Only three more to go.

Here is the finished board.

And here are two of the boards together.

As you can see, it makes a nice joint.

The bonus is that you have a nice pile of shavings. Use these to pad those tools you are giving your ww buddies for Christmas.

So now you know the secret to shiplap joints--they are easy. Time to make some shavings.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Jim: Welcome back after your short absence. I've wanted to try combining lapped boards with a bead cut into one edge in order to make handmade bead board. Have you done that? If so, do you have any tips for a first timer?

 

[jimreed2160]

CRS--My suggestion is to go to Lowes and get their premade beadboard.
I used that stuff in my bathroom and it is cool.

But seriously, it does not have a handmade look to it. Most vintage beadboard was probably T&G and beaded on the tongue side. Cutting a bead on the groove side would weaken the side of the groove and probably make it split off. Same holds for the shiplap bead board. Put the groove on the face and same side as the rabbet. Just inset it beyond the rabbet shoulder. That puts the bead on the full thickness of the board. Less likely to have problems with that. BUT insetting a bead that far will require a special beader. Modern routers and shapers would have a hard time because they want to bead right on the edge. That is not as much an issue if you are doing it by hand. In fact, the Stanley #45 or #55 will put a bead right smack dab in the middle of a 10" wide board. Take that--modern routers and shapers. They cannot begin to tackle that job!

Good luck with your project. Remember that we LOVE pictures.

 

[turbowoodworker]

The other thing one can do, almost like a bead, is to put a 45 degree chamfer on the edge near the lap. It give a relief cut for a visual change. Not as fancy as a bead but same idea.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Jim: Thanks! That's exactly what I was concerned about. It seems like a custom scratch stock would be just the thing.

turbo: A chamfer would be a good idea to dress up the joints too. I guess it would depend on just how formal or informal you wanted the effect to be. I'm gonna try both - but probably not on the same boards. Thanks to you too.

 

[rweaver]

Hey Jar944 im getting ready to start a project like your seat in the bay window in our dog house dormer area and wondering how far you kept seating cushion and framing from back wall so it would open properly if this makes sense

 

[jimreed2160]

I would prepare some short pieces of soft construction lumber and try out a few options. Once you get the look you like, you can "fire for effect". Good luck.

 

[ztorres]

Here is proof you never have enough clamps. I'm making a dresser for the wife and need 10 clamps at least 48" long



Zach

 

[turbowoodworker]

One other thing on beads. I agree that it would be almost impossible to get a router beading bit to work on shiplap. But an old hacksaw blade, and a rounded cut made by the right size round file can make a perfect beading scraper. Mount that in a block of wood as a handle and fence and there you go, a beading bit for shiplap. Scraping like that is really easy because the cut is both narrow and shallow. Not a lot of work.

Remember that all those nice profiles you see in ornate Victorian moldings were made by hand and by hand made tools. I doubt there was a Freud website in 1890.

 

[bj383ss]

Dresser looks good Z.

Jim thanks for the lesson on ship lap. I have never thought about using that before.

Bret