Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
RK--Ooh-ooh! The #4 missing a knob is an early one. It needs a low knob. Those turn into excellent users. One of the #7s is also an early low knob plane. In all, a great batch of vintage tools. You did great!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: congrats on the great news and what a relief i'm guessing.
ALL: i agree and have read many posts about fires started with rags that were just set in the wrong place after using them to stain a project. my neighbor was staining his new fence's 2x's and put the rag on his 1.125 inch plywood topped steel framed bench. i can't recall how long he said it sat there before he smelled something burning so he moved the rag and under it the plywood was a black charcoal and about to ignite.
have a can with a lid for oily rags if you don't have a clothes pin and a line inside or out to hang them to dry and don't throw them in the garbage especially if the garbage cans are next to a tree you like or your home or garage.
carry on and back to WOODWORKING!!
ALL: i agree and have read many posts about fires started with rags that were just set in the wrong place after using them to stain a project. my neighbor was staining his new fence's 2x's and put the rag on his 1.125 inch plywood topped steel framed bench. i can't recall how long he said it sat there before he smelled something burning so he moved the rag and under it the plywood was a black charcoal and about to ignite.
have a can with a lid for oily rags if you don't have a clothes pin and a line inside or out to hang them to dry and don't throw them in the garbage especially if the garbage cans are next to a tree you like or your home or garage.
carry on and back to WOODWORKING!!
haha that's right! good work.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
CSR: love the pens and great work!!
do you have any before and during shots to post or did i miss them? also did you make the stand or is that something you by from a supplier?
do you have any before and during shots to post or did i miss them? also did you make the stand or is that something you by from a supplier?
CSRPenFab
Well-known member
Sorry, I didn't take any "in process" shots when I made those two. I'll try to get some on the next batch. I buy those lucite display stands from one of my pen hardware suppliers. They make all types to hold any number of pens.
Knyte Tyne
Well-known member
Even if its not your cup of tea... you have to appreciate the craftsmanship... The subtle hints of gun theme really make it
250
Well-known member
So after a month long cancer scare, it looks like we are in the good zone. We were able to escape the hospital and I napped the afternoon away. Then we went to a birthday celebration to cap it all off.
Life is good.
Excellent news.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Wood Storage
I think a lot of us ww turn into wood collectors--I know I am one. I just love the beauty of wood in its infinite varieties. Over time, I have accumulated quite a stash. Some of it is construction lumber, some of it is exotic, some of it is just good cabinet wood. In fact, there is wood all over my shop. It is stored in a variety of ways and I need to get it better organized because it is hard to use wood that you cannot see. In that vein, I thought it might help if we discussed wood storage.
My primary wood storage rack was built out of necessity when my workshop was in a basement apartment. I needed something that was carpet friendly and mobile. So I used 8 ft 2x4s and built an 8x4x4 storage rack. It has four levels and could hold about 500 bft of lumber.
There is room on top for veneer storage along with Christmas ornaments.
Other lumber is stored vertically.
About 20 years ago, I purchased about 300 lbs of exotic and domestic cut offs from a lumber seller. The (now) herniated UPS guy delivered six 50-60 lb boxes directly to my door. The boxes have held up pretty well.
Then there is the kitty litter container full of ebony scraps.
And a variety of domestic shorts stored in the metalworking area.
I also have a drawer full of turning wood blanks and some apple that I use to repair saw handles.
Since much of my invisible wood is thick shorts, I plan to open up some shelving and store it out in the open where it is visible. Years of shop dust has not harmed anything that is out.
So how do others store wood? Is it getting out of hand? Are there any clever ideas out there in cyberwoodland?
I think a lot of us ww turn into wood collectors--I know I am one. I just love the beauty of wood in its infinite varieties. Over time, I have accumulated quite a stash. Some of it is construction lumber, some of it is exotic, some of it is just good cabinet wood. In fact, there is wood all over my shop. It is stored in a variety of ways and I need to get it better organized because it is hard to use wood that you cannot see. In that vein, I thought it might help if we discussed wood storage.
My primary wood storage rack was built out of necessity when my workshop was in a basement apartment. I needed something that was carpet friendly and mobile. So I used 8 ft 2x4s and built an 8x4x4 storage rack. It has four levels and could hold about 500 bft of lumber.
There is room on top for veneer storage along with Christmas ornaments.
Other lumber is stored vertically.
About 20 years ago, I purchased about 300 lbs of exotic and domestic cut offs from a lumber seller. The (now) herniated UPS guy delivered six 50-60 lb boxes directly to my door. The boxes have held up pretty well.
Then there is the kitty litter container full of ebony scraps.
And a variety of domestic shorts stored in the metalworking area.
I also have a drawer full of turning wood blanks and some apple that I use to repair saw handles.
Since much of my invisible wood is thick shorts, I plan to open up some shelving and store it out in the open where it is visible. Years of shop dust has not harmed anything that is out.
So how do others store wood? Is it getting out of hand? Are there any clever ideas out there in cyberwoodland?
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
More handplane rehab
Frozen screws are pretty common on vintage basket cases. Here is how I am dealing with a frog on a type 11 #3 Bailey.
Screw #1 yielded immediately but screw #2 was stubborn. I soaked it with Liquid Wrench and will let it sit for awhile.
In the meantime, the cap iron was stuck on the blade also.
This one also yielded immediately. Those big vises really come in handy.
Frozen screws are pretty common on vintage basket cases. Here is how I am dealing with a frog on a type 11 #3 Bailey.
Screw #1 yielded immediately but screw #2 was stubborn. I soaked it with Liquid Wrench and will let it sit for awhile.
In the meantime, the cap iron was stuck on the blade also.
This one also yielded immediately. Those big vises really come in handy.
you need to get some clear plastic containers for the small scraps so you can see and label them. what's going to happen is someone is going to go through your stuff when you aren't looking and either call it all firewood or simply not understand what it is, what it cost, what it's worth now, etc. I bet since CITES your collection is more of an investment now.
I made some shavings today. Have a workbench I have been planing down but there are just too many big knots and cracks in it so it's getting a new top eventually. but for now im looking to get one part of it flat enough to do glue ups.
taking a huge pile of 2x4 cutoffs & 'big scraps' cut off all the knots and gluing up a 24x75 top for some file cabinets that are sitting below my wood rack. as the clamps move from one section to the next I am doing some sanding and planing between other stuff in the shop. don't have any photos phone was mostly dead all day and I was too lazy to charge it or even take it with me.
I made some shavings today. Have a workbench I have been planing down but there are just too many big knots and cracks in it so it's getting a new top eventually. but for now im looking to get one part of it flat enough to do glue ups.
taking a huge pile of 2x4 cutoffs & 'big scraps' cut off all the knots and gluing up a 24x75 top for some file cabinets that are sitting below my wood rack. as the clamps move from one section to the next I am doing some sanding and planing between other stuff in the shop. don't have any photos phone was mostly dead all day and I was too lazy to charge it or even take it with me.
derosa
Well-known member
Cut off storage is easy, when it gets to be too much I start making cutting boards till there isn't any cut offs left. Right now I store all my boards above the cistern in the basement or by leaning the shorter ones against the cistern wall. Not a lot of cash and more projects then wood keeps the collection now. Only exception is the 12' long 24" wide cherry boards I have to store in the barn and the apple wood I went and cut down myself.
Hoping in the next two weeks to cut down a couple of larger beech trees in the woods behind my house and figure out how to get the logs out to the road. Local place will bandsaw them for .30 a bf and kiln dry them for another .50bf. I'm thinking 3" thick quarter sawn to finally build my workbench out of.
Hoping in the next two weeks to cut down a couple of larger beech trees in the woods behind my house and figure out how to get the logs out to the road. Local place will bandsaw them for .30 a bf and kiln dry them for another .50bf. I'm thinking 3" thick quarter sawn to finally build my workbench out of.
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
All:
A few weeks ago I won a C-Man woodworking vise at an auction for 5$. There was also a dowel jig and a mystery contraption (first picture). First, I thought it it was part of a machine that got discarded, until I did some research. Found out it's a Face Maker pocket hole jig.
Second picture shows how to use it. My woodworking skills are very rudimentary, but I'll have fun playing with it.
Does anyone have experience using one of these?
A few weeks ago I won a C-Man woodworking vise at an auction for 5$. There was also a dowel jig and a mystery contraption (first picture). First, I thought it it was part of a machine that got discarded, until I did some research. Found out it's a Face Maker pocket hole jig.
Second picture shows how to use it. My woodworking skills are very rudimentary, but I'll have fun playing with it.
Does anyone have experience using one of these?
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Cheechi--CLEAR PLASTIC TOTES! Great idea. They often go on sale at HD. Sounds like just what I need to replace those boxes.
Mark--You sound like the auction king. Kudos on your recent scores. Keep working with the face frame jig and you will be able to make some nice cabinets.
Mark--You sound like the auction king. Kudos on your recent scores. Keep working with the face frame jig and you will be able to make some nice cabinets.
R_einan
Well-known member
Been reading this thread for awhile, really enjoyed some of the info available here. Anyhow, I've been doing hobbyist wood projects for fun and have really been wanting to get deeper into wood work. I've had a tiny 8" makita job site table saw for years and while it's great to toss in the truck and does ok, I realized I wanted and needed a larger table saw. I was considering a Grizzly hybrid because it was much more saw than I had and was going to be a tough sell to my bride at $850. Until yesterday anyway...
And here she is, my craigslist find for a crazy good price. It's a 1990, 3hp unit. It is missing the miter gauge and the brackets to mount the rear of the splitter and gaurd. Have a mitergauge ordered and haven't decided is I will track down the parts for the splitter, not used to having one anyway.
Here's a couple of my most recent projects before I picked up the new saw, can't wait to start building with it.
I'm super excited!
And here she is, my craigslist find for a crazy good price. It's a 1990, 3hp unit. It is missing the miter gauge and the brackets to mount the rear of the splitter and gaurd. Have a mitergauge ordered and haven't decided is I will track down the parts for the splitter, not used to having one anyway.
Here's a couple of my most recent projects before I picked up the new saw, can't wait to start building with it.
I'm super excited!Attachments
Toolfool
Well-known member
Congratulations ! Great saw with a great fence. Make sure the fence is properly adjusted before you start using it . Have fun.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
R-- That is a great looking saw--good score. I am impressed with the neatness of your shop.
R_einan
Well-known member
Jim: Thank you, when my wife and I moved in a year ago I downsized my shop space by 50%, so neat and organized became a priority. Ive had to learn that small spaces can still be functional if they are organized.
Toolfan: Thank you as well, I checked everything before I brought it home, everything was square but some minor adjustments to make sure the fence was riding above the table without rubbing we're necessary. It's all set now!
R_einan
Well-known member
Yes, I did **** joint them, originally planned to rabbet joint them but things happened. The **** joints are pilot drilled and glued before screws were used. The metal corner bracing was added as an extra measure to prevent racking of the box due to the depth; there is one on each corner. The bottom is 1/2 ply set in a dado around its perimeter and glued.
Toolfool
Well-known member
Toolfan: Thank you as well, I checked everything before I brought it home, everything was square but some minor adjustments to make sure the fence was riding above the table without rubbing we're necessary. It's all set now!
It's best to NOT have the fence dead-on parallel to the blade. Spacing should be "just slightly" wider at the back edge of the blade than at the front edge.
It's best to NOT have the fence dead-on parallel to the blade. Spacing should be "just slightly" wider at the back edge of the blade than at the front edge.
hunterguy86
Well-known member
Can you expand on this? New to woodworking and haven't heard this before. Why is this so? How much is "just slightly?"
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
New project
This little box arrived in the mail this week.
It opens up to reveal drawers and a pincushion. It is, of course, a sewing case.
It is made from reclaimed furniture walnut and there is some trim missing.
Granddaddy did a nice job.
But I think it is very pretty with that Victorian/Edwardian charm.
I need to repurpose it so I will reluctantly remove the pincushion. And I need to make two different types of trim. There are nails slightly protruding from the bottom and I think it would benefit from some biscuit like feet. This bit of woodworking will be a relaxing break from all of the handplane refurb.
This little box arrived in the mail this week.
It opens up to reveal drawers and a pincushion. It is, of course, a sewing case.
It is made from reclaimed furniture walnut and there is some trim missing.
Granddaddy did a nice job.
But I think it is very pretty with that Victorian/Edwardian charm.
I need to repurpose it so I will reluctantly remove the pincushion. And I need to make two different types of trim. There are nails slightly protruding from the bottom and I think it would benefit from some biscuit like feet. This bit of woodworking will be a relaxing break from all of the handplane refurb.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
The wood stash revealed
Time to do something about the hidden wood stash. First I emptied the boxes.
This was the heaviest--69 lbs. UPS guy is still hurting.
And here it is dumped onto the workbenches.
I think the brown wood is African tambootie. The sticks are African blackwood and padauk.
Mostly 16/4 and 8/4 maple. There are a few nice pieces of 8/4 walnut and cherry.
Lots of figured maple. I burned through most of the birdseye.
But there is some nice quilted stuff left.
The tambootie (?) is heavy stuff and it mostly filled the tote I had on hand.
Back in its old resting spot. Only now it is more easily accessible. The 16/4 and 8/4 maple is beside it on the lower shelf.
I was able to store the blackwood sticks in the backs of various drawers. That left only a little bit of figured maple without a home.
I can drop by HD tomorrow and pick up a tote and a spare for the maple.
I am very glad to get rid of the 20 year old boxes. Now that the wood is out maybe it will get used. This shop organization project is beginning to tickle me.
Time to do something about the hidden wood stash. First I emptied the boxes.
This was the heaviest--69 lbs. UPS guy is still hurting.
And here it is dumped onto the workbenches.
I think the brown wood is African tambootie. The sticks are African blackwood and padauk.
Mostly 16/4 and 8/4 maple. There are a few nice pieces of 8/4 walnut and cherry.
Lots of figured maple. I burned through most of the birdseye.
But there is some nice quilted stuff left.
The tambootie (?) is heavy stuff and it mostly filled the tote I had on hand.
Back in its old resting spot. Only now it is more easily accessible. The 16/4 and 8/4 maple is beside it on the lower shelf.
I was able to store the blackwood sticks in the backs of various drawers. That left only a little bit of figured maple without a home.
I can drop by HD tomorrow and pick up a tote and a spare for the maple.
I am very glad to get rid of the 20 year old boxes. Now that the wood is out maybe it will get used. This shop organization project is beginning to tickle me.
Craptain
Well-known member
When you cut wood with the fence perfectly parallel to the blade there's a possibility of the "back" side of the blade catching with resulting kick back. Also if the blade is not perfectly sharp it will tend to burn the cut surface. Remember the dimension is from the front of the blade to the fence so you should still get accurate cuts.
So if the fence is off parallel just enough to relieve the contact, maybe a couple of thou this can be a benefit. My preference is to use the riving knife which if correctly set up can achieve the same results. My current saw has no riving knife so I have the off parallel set up.
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
My plywood storage is against a wall, with the full width sheets laying on their long edges. Narrower cutoffs are stored in a rack above them. Photo shows a glimpse of it, on the left.
Long lumber is stored vertically, under the roof peak.
Long lumber is stored vertically, under the roof peak.
R_einan
Well-known member
I've never heard that before either, I was always taught to set up parallel. And I've never owned or used a saw with a splitter or riving knife.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Low morals
Back when I was a young pup and just out of college, I had a job with a state agency. The mailroom (remember those?) was run by a nice old lady, a lifer, who was our own version of Madame Malaprop (google it). My favorite of hers was on disappointment, about which she said proudly, "It just sorta lowers your morals." Being young and not shy about debauchery, we all agreed with anything that lowered morals.
My morale (and probably my morals also) stepped down a peg this morning in the shop. I was sweating away working on a reallllly nice #3 bench plane. It was a highly desirable type 11 (1910-1918) and I was cleaning the sole just prior to reassembly. Here is how it looked before.
It had almost 90% of its japan finish and everything was going well.
As I was polishing the side with a red Scotchbrite, I was stunned when this was uncovered:
Oh, snap! My cleaning revealed a hidden crack.
Now these parts are just parts. Buying raw vintage handplanes is a crapshoot and casting breaks are part of the game. Cleaning and putting one back into service after many years of neglect is a real high. But discovering latent flaws really does "lower your morals." -sigh-
Back when I was a young pup and just out of college, I had a job with a state agency. The mailroom (remember those?) was run by a nice old lady, a lifer, who was our own version of Madame Malaprop (google it). My favorite of hers was on disappointment, about which she said proudly, "It just sorta lowers your morals." Being young and not shy about debauchery, we all agreed with anything that lowered morals.
My morale (and probably my morals also) stepped down a peg this morning in the shop. I was sweating away working on a reallllly nice #3 bench plane. It was a highly desirable type 11 (1910-1918) and I was cleaning the sole just prior to reassembly. Here is how it looked before.
It had almost 90% of its japan finish and everything was going well.
As I was polishing the side with a red Scotchbrite, I was stunned when this was uncovered:
Oh, snap! My cleaning revealed a hidden crack.
Now these parts are just parts. Buying raw vintage handplanes is a crapshoot and casting breaks are part of the game. Cleaning and putting one back into service after many years of neglect is a real high. But discovering latent flaws really does "lower your morals." -sigh-
R_einan
Well-known member
That's the pits Jim, always hate to see good tools damaged from neglect. On the bright side you have some really nice hard woods for projects. What's first?
hellagrant
Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2017
- Messages
- 6
Help please. I am going to cross cut some 3/4" plywood(4x8). The width will be about 3 inches. These will be bevel cuts, 45degrees. I am using a circular saw. I have something called a Kreg rip cut, a tool to help make perfectly straight cuts.
How should I suppport the plywood and the pieces that will be cut off? Let it just hang off the table?
How should I suppport the plywood and the pieces that will be cut off? Let it just hang off the table?
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Cutting plywood with a circular saw always gives me the heebie-jeebies. Not that I don't do it but that it just seems so unsafe. A 4x8 sheet of plywood is not easy to manage--even if you have the arms of a gorilla. The circular saw excels at crosscutting 2x construction lumber but is really out of its element on large sheet goods. Yes, we have all done it but that does not make it safe. Here are a few tips to put some bits of safety into those fearsome cuts:
1. Support the large sheet well. Clamp it to sawhorses or to a workbench. You don't want the big heavy sheet jumping around while you are doing your surgery on one end. Supporting it with clamps at least gives you a fighting chance.
2. Now that you are cutting on the free (open) side, clear a walk path. Hold the saw firmly and walk. Cutting with your right hand leaves your left hand free. Now a 3" bevel cut is just about right to take out a finger at the distal joint so resist the urge to grab the piece while you are cutting. Best to have a friend/helper at the initial kerf install a batten clamp or something to keep the offcut level with the sheet.
3. Be mindful of where the sawblade is. Avoid chopping your leg or your free hand. Be prepared for kickback. This wonderful little Kreg thing can conspire with warping plywood to bind the blade and throw it back at you in a split second.
4. You might be able to adjust your blade depth if your circular saw permits that adjustment. You could set up several sawhorses with sacrificial tops that could withstand a bit of a kerf. Adjust the saw to cut the bevel and an additional 1/8" or so. That way, the sawhorses would support the main sheet and the cut off section for its whole length.
That is about all I can think of off the top of my head. A 3" bevel cut from a 4x8 sheet of plywood is something that really lives in the world of a large industrial table saw. Good luck with your project and I hope you salute next week with all of your digits.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Well, just seeing the wood again has started my juices flowing. I hope the projects will come streaming out.
I like to lay plywood on the ground and use a piece of 1" thick extruded poly insulation. Then set the blade depth to barely deep enough to go through. Then there is no worry about supporting the board
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
So I rethought the whole wood storage thing. The African blackwood sticks were small and easy to hide amongst my new drawers. I had them everywhere. And then I realized that I--just like the jumpy squirrel with a huge nut stash--would forget where I stashed them. So I rounded them all up.
And pretty much filled one of my new storage containers.
I also filled one of the new containers with most of the figured maple. At least now I can get to the wood when I need it.
And pretty much filled one of my new storage containers.
I also filled one of the new containers with most of the figured maple. At least now I can get to the wood when I need it.
56vette461
Well-known member
Cutting sheets of plywood is always a crazy process.
I have found that a pair of solid sawhorses and two 8' 2x4's as a sacrificial surface works well. 2x4's can be set at any distance apart to support your plywood. Set your saw on the 45 degree set, and then set it just slightly deeper (proud is an old term here) than the thickness of the plywood. Clamps can also help secure the plywood if needed.
When you set up your cut try to cut back under your guide. Because your on the sacrificial 2x4's you don't have to worry about pieces falling or you saw binding. You also avoid dangerous kick back that can cut stuff you don't want cut.
Hope this helps. Good luck and be safe.R_einan
Well-known member
I've always just cut 4x8 sheets on the floor, put a couple pieces of scrap under both sides of the cut and another to support the edge of the piece to be cut off. I adjust my circular to only cut 1/8-1/4 below the surface. Never used a kreg rip-cut, but I've used an aluminum straight edge clamped to the face as a guide. Works for me, but probably not the absolute safest set up.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Never heard of a Kreg rip cut. Your project sounds ideally suited to a track saw.
On 3/4" plywood you would usually make the straight cut at 90* and then put the bevel on it. When breaking down sheets of plywood, I generally lay several 4/4 sacrificial strips on my workbench, at 90* to the cut, with the plywood on top of that. The blade depth is set to penetrate the strips by ~1/16"-1/8".
Coolerman
Well-known member
Whew! Just finished reading 103 pages of interesting posts!
Only took me two weeks off and on...
I'm no wood worker (electrical things are my talent) but as I age I find I want to start into this hobby. I live in a log home so... I have been putting a few tools together...
My current powered wood working tool list
Ridgid TS2424 1 10" table saw
Jet 15" floor drill press
Rikon 25-130H 12" planer
Makita LS1020 10" Miter saw (looking for work holder set and vise assembly for this saw)
Kutch 6" disk/belt sander (cheap but works OK)
Craftsman Router & table (very cheap and SOON to be replaced!)
Anyway, that is what I have now.
I am in the process of modifying a newly purchased Harbor Freight dust collector to keep the fine dust out of my basement workshop. Don't think the wife would appreciate any more dust than we already get from living in farm country!
I ordered a large Onieda dust deputy for chip separation, a WynnEN 35A filter to fit the HF dust collector, and once those parts are here, will start building a mobile frame to mount all this to. First project will be to build a wood working bench...
jimreed2160: Your plane tutorials have educated me on the wonders of these tools. I will now start keeping an eye out for them at yard sales and flea markets. I don't want to collect them, I want them to use them. You should make a list of, "Here are the 5 planes you can't do without." That way I will know which ones to buy!
Mark aka Coolerman
Only took me two weeks off and on...
I'm no wood worker (electrical things are my talent) but as I age I find I want to start into this hobby. I live in a log home so... I have been putting a few tools together...
My current powered wood working tool list
Ridgid TS2424 1 10" table saw
Jet 15" floor drill press
Rikon 25-130H 12" planer
Makita LS1020 10" Miter saw (looking for work holder set and vise assembly for this saw)
Kutch 6" disk/belt sander (cheap but works OK)
Craftsman Router & table (very cheap and SOON to be replaced!)
Anyway, that is what I have now.
I am in the process of modifying a newly purchased Harbor Freight dust collector to keep the fine dust out of my basement workshop. Don't think the wife would appreciate any more dust than we already get from living in farm country!
I ordered a large Onieda dust deputy for chip separation, a WynnEN 35A filter to fit the HF dust collector, and once those parts are here, will start building a mobile frame to mount all this to. First project will be to build a wood working bench...
jimreed2160: Your plane tutorials have educated me on the wonders of these tools. I will now start keeping an eye out for them at yard sales and flea markets. I don't want to collect them, I want them to use them. You should make a list of, "Here are the 5 planes you can't do without." That way I will know which ones to buy!
Mark aka Coolerman
mefast
Well-known member
Hi Mark,
It looks like you have a good start on the power tools.
My recommendation on the top 5 planes to start with are:
1) Block plane (No. 9-1/2 standard angle or No. 60-1/2 low angle)
2) Jack/fore plane (No. 5 is the standard and can be used as a jointer or smoother if needed)
3) Shoulder/rabbet plane (lots of variation, but I like my old No. 93)
4) Jointer plane (No. 7 or No. 8 if you can handle the extra weight)
5) Smoothing plane (No. 4 or No. 3 if you work on smaller pieces)
Take my list with a grain of salt, as I'm just a beginner to planes. However, eagerly learning as much possible about them
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Hello Mark. Welcome aboard! It sounds like you are well on your way to outfitting a nice shop. Good luck with that. I hope the end result will be a place of much enjoyment. If you manage to kick out a project for the wife every now and again, you will maintain balance in the force.
As for a must have handplane list, it really depends on what you intend to do. But there are a few must haves for almost any situation. With that in mind, here is something to start with:
1. Bench. A good workbench with an end vise and bench dogs. Planes are very hard to use without a good bench. BUT they are a joy to use with a good bench.
2. Block plane. Find a good low angle block plane with an adjustable throat. Remember that the blade goes in with the bevel UP. Learn now to sharpen and then go to town.
3. Jack plane, #5 size bench plane. This is a common bench plane and is very handy around the house. It is a bevel DOWN plane. Use it to take shavings off of a balky door. Use it to tame your workbench. Learn how to sharpen the blade and learn how to use the plane by practicing on construction lumber. Light and wispy shavings (full width) are what you are aiming for.
4. Smoother, #4 size bench plane. This bench plane is shorter and lighter than the #5. It is good for those smaller projects as well as for fine work.
5. Jointer, #7 size bench plane. This aircraft carrier sized plane is just the stuff for jointing edges before glue ups. A good jointer will help you make good glue ups for tables and carcasses. If your volume is small, a plane can take the place of a motorized jointer.
Completing the above list will immediately advance you from "interested novice" to "working journeyman" in the planecraft world. Good luck.