ScottsGT
Well-known member
Those pens are stunningly beautiful!
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
Crazyjake8493
Well-known member
CSRPenFab, those pens are gorgeous! Well done!
CSRPenFab
Well-known member
Thanks for the feedback guys! Sometimes I even surprise myself with how good they turn out! I really like working in burls, you never know what the finished pen will look like after lots of layers of finish, sanding, and polishing...
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Turbo--Thanks for the tips from ww of yore. I think they were on the right track because those techniques simulate dye instead of pigments. The pigments tend to make maple look muddy. To me, maple is very difficult to finish. Sometimes I use repeated BLO treatments to darken it. But that takes weeks. The nitric is much quicker.
CRS--It is simply amazing what you can do with a little scrap of wood.
CRS--It is simply amazing what you can do with a little scrap of wood.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Feet for sewing stand
I found a big block of luan or something like it to turn for feet.
But then I was rummaging around in the boneyard and found these.
These are maple toy wheel axles from my buddy Barry's stash. They look a lot easier. Especially for something that will not be seen. Time for some stain.
I found a big block of luan or something like it to turn for feet.
But then I was rummaging around in the boneyard and found these.
These are maple toy wheel axles from my buddy Barry's stash. They look a lot easier. Especially for something that will not be seen. Time for some stain.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Sewing box rehab
This project continues. Fixing up things like this is not so much hard as tedious. There are many steps and finishing slows things down as the stain and clear must dry. That's why I like to have several workbenches in my shop. I can work on many projects at once and do a little on each daily. Anyway, this one needs some feet. While the stain dries, I will drill some holes for them.
Drilling holes in 1/2" 100 year old walnut stock is not for the faint of heart as there is precious little room for error. No do-overs here. I used the trammel to assist in layout. The fence will ensure one of the boundaries and the trammel points will help provide equal distance between each pair of feet.
After the finish on the feet is dry, I will cut the tenons short. All I really need is a shallow hole. I am counting on modern adhesive glue to do most of the work.
Drawer pull
Now that the finish is dry on the new drawer, I can install the brass pull. WooHoo. I get to use my new drill for the pilot.
This maple is really hard and the screw needs lube. That is another lesson from my dad. We used Ivory soap on fence gate lags and they went in like butter on waffles.
A little soap goes a long way.
And here is the money shot. Camera kinda bleached out the birdseye.
It shows up better in its close up.
After the feet, I need to begin work on the missing trim. Of course, I saved the hardest stuff for the end. But for a reason as I have been mulling over the best way to create it. After several fever dreams, I think I have a good plan. Stay tuned.
This project continues. Fixing up things like this is not so much hard as tedious. There are many steps and finishing slows things down as the stain and clear must dry. That's why I like to have several workbenches in my shop. I can work on many projects at once and do a little on each daily. Anyway, this one needs some feet. While the stain dries, I will drill some holes for them.
Drilling holes in 1/2" 100 year old walnut stock is not for the faint of heart as there is precious little room for error. No do-overs here. I used the trammel to assist in layout. The fence will ensure one of the boundaries and the trammel points will help provide equal distance between each pair of feet.
After the finish on the feet is dry, I will cut the tenons short. All I really need is a shallow hole. I am counting on modern adhesive glue to do most of the work.
Drawer pull
Now that the finish is dry on the new drawer, I can install the brass pull. WooHoo. I get to use my new drill for the pilot.
This maple is really hard and the screw needs lube. That is another lesson from my dad. We used Ivory soap on fence gate lags and they went in like butter on waffles.
A little soap goes a long way.
And here is the money shot. Camera kinda bleached out the birdseye.
It shows up better in its close up.
After the feet, I need to begin work on the missing trim. Of course, I saved the hardest stuff for the end. But for a reason as I have been mulling over the best way to create it. After several fever dreams, I think I have a good plan. Stay tuned.
that birdseye looks great. I vote you replace all the drawers with birdseye fronts. Or maybe two tigers and 3 birdseyes.
I have a question that I'm going to try to ask without photos and still try to make sense. Some epoxy is sold in a 'syringe' applicator, and woodcraft sells a few 'glue syringe' products. I have a few gaps in a glue up I'm doing that are ~1/16 thick and would like to be able to fill them with wood putty or similar. is putty too thick to be applied via a syringe? or in a gap so small?
the glue up is a bunch of 2x4 scraps and cutoffs I am making a top for some file cabinets in the shop. The end goal is not meant to be kitchen counter grade beautiful. Most of the gaps are from where a cut end doesn't meet flush with a factory edge, or two factory edges, or where clamping in one direction was stronger than in another. The gaps won't affect the function of the end result.
I have never done a big glue up like this and figured what better way to learn than to make all the mistakes up front. it's planned for 76"x24" and I am about 2/3 of the way done, been gluing and clamping it in between other bigger projects so I'm sure one or two of the gaps have been leaving out a clamp from time to time. If these gaps can be filled with putty/glue/bondo/etc, should i flatten the whole piece first, fill the gaps, and then do the finish sanding? or before any sanding?
is it a matter of you knowing wood in general, you knowing your stock, or something else that makes you either sure/unsure what species of wood you find when you go through your stock? This has always been interesting to me as some go by grain, smell, some rely on labeling everything. Never met two guys whose system is exactly the same.
I have a question that I'm going to try to ask without photos and still try to make sense. Some epoxy is sold in a 'syringe' applicator, and woodcraft sells a few 'glue syringe' products. I have a few gaps in a glue up I'm doing that are ~1/16 thick and would like to be able to fill them with wood putty or similar. is putty too thick to be applied via a syringe? or in a gap so small?
the glue up is a bunch of 2x4 scraps and cutoffs I am making a top for some file cabinets in the shop. The end goal is not meant to be kitchen counter grade beautiful. Most of the gaps are from where a cut end doesn't meet flush with a factory edge, or two factory edges, or where clamping in one direction was stronger than in another. The gaps won't affect the function of the end result.
I have never done a big glue up like this and figured what better way to learn than to make all the mistakes up front. it's planned for 76"x24" and I am about 2/3 of the way done, been gluing and clamping it in between other bigger projects so I'm sure one or two of the gaps have been leaving out a clamp from time to time. If these gaps can be filled with putty/glue/bondo/etc, should i flatten the whole piece first, fill the gaps, and then do the finish sanding? or before any sanding?
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Cheechi--Wood identification has always been a hobby of mine. Some of my earliest memories are sitting in a pile of black walnut shavings. I was in a diaper and could not reliably walk. I have always loved the fragrance of walnut. I also have a few wood sample kits and then there is Mr Google.
As for the gaps, you learn the hard way. I like to make my large glue ups oversized and then cut the ends. It helps square the piece and it makes the ends more secure. I started this practice when I was testing glue ups. I noticed that most glue ups were very secure and the wood would fail before the glue. EXCEPT at the very ends. Many of them were weak, in spite of clamping.
Next time, make the top longer and cut about an inch off both end. For the one you have, glue alone will not help. Use glue and some thin shavings. Slather glue around and work the shavings into the void. Use a knife or something thin to pack it tightly. Trim after the glue dries. The new wood will blend in properly and only you will know what happened. Good luck.
As for the gaps, you learn the hard way. I like to make my large glue ups oversized and then cut the ends. It helps square the piece and it makes the ends more secure. I started this practice when I was testing glue ups. I noticed that most glue ups were very secure and the wood would fail before the glue. EXCEPT at the very ends. Many of them were weak, in spite of clamping.
Next time, make the top longer and cut about an inch off both end. For the one you have, glue alone will not help. Use glue and some thin shavings. Slather glue around and work the shavings into the void. Use a knife or something thin to pack it tightly. Trim after the glue dries. The new wood will blend in properly and only you will know what happened. Good luck.
lucky I'm not done yet, I do intend to cut off at least 1/2" of the end I've got done so far since it is uneven. The gaps are interstitial though so I may try that with the dust/glue mix. generally is it about 1:1 mix? or should I experiment?
I have one of the rockler silicon brushes that has like a scraper type flat end on the other side. I will use that like a putty knife and get in there.
I have one of the rockler silicon brushes that has like a scraper type flat end on the other side. I will use that like a putty knife and get in there.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
If you do the sawdust/glue mix, make sure it is close to the final color because it does not take stain well. I start with sawdust and use a pocketknife as a mixing paddle. I add glue and mix a ball until it gets to a thick doughy paste. It dries rock hard and can be sanded or pared with sharp chisels.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Yankee ratcheting screwdrivers
My dad promised a shower of tools "when I am gone". It made him feel good but left me on my own to acquire tools for working. That is why I was surprised the day he gave me his treasured Yankee ratcheting screwdriver. Seems he was prowling the tool bins and found a new one in the blemish bin. He got it home to discover that the "blemish" was just goo from a piece of tape. Gloating over his new tool, he happily presented me with his old one. "It's yours, Bud. I can't use two at once."
So imagine my surprise when I found the mini-me version and scored it for about the price of a Happy Meal.
The ratcheting works flawlessly. Surprisingly, the small blade is 3/8, while the one on the larger is 1/4. I am sure even dad would chuckle at the irony of that.
My dad promised a shower of tools "when I am gone". It made him feel good but left me on my own to acquire tools for working. That is why I was surprised the day he gave me his treasured Yankee ratcheting screwdriver. Seems he was prowling the tool bins and found a new one in the blemish bin. He got it home to discover that the "blemish" was just goo from a piece of tape. Gloating over his new tool, he happily presented me with his old one. "It's yours, Bud. I can't use two at once."
So imagine my surprise when I found the mini-me version and scored it for about the price of a Happy Meal.
The ratcheting works flawlessly. Surprisingly, the small blade is 3/8, while the one on the larger is 1/4. I am sure even dad would chuckle at the irony of that.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
New project for the spray booth
The rear door of my garage shop opens to a large open air spray booth, aka, the backyard. For finishing I usually set up two sawhorses and top them with a recycled cabinet door. But that is a lot of setup for a simple spray. Last night's fever dream resulted in an idea for a smaller setup. It started with seemingly random marks on plywood scrap.
Those rough design marks were followed by actual cutting marks. Here is the result.
And here they are in action.
The brackets are strong enough to support the box lid with its prizes and they are also lightweight enough to be very portable.
Spraying went fine but I did have a few visitors.
And yes, his friend did have a CHROME abdomen.
I used some sticks to demo their house. I hope it encourages them to pick another location. They are free to eat bugs, just not in my new spray booth annex.
Now that my shop is more organized, it is easier to knock off these simple projects that make life easier. Organization does have its rewards.
The rear door of my garage shop opens to a large open air spray booth, aka, the backyard. For finishing I usually set up two sawhorses and top them with a recycled cabinet door. But that is a lot of setup for a simple spray. Last night's fever dream resulted in an idea for a smaller setup. It started with seemingly random marks on plywood scrap.
Those rough design marks were followed by actual cutting marks. Here is the result.
And here they are in action.
The brackets are strong enough to support the box lid with its prizes and they are also lightweight enough to be very portable.
Spraying went fine but I did have a few visitors.
And yes, his friend did have a CHROME abdomen.
I used some sticks to demo their house. I hope it encourages them to pick another location. They are free to eat bugs, just not in my new spray booth annex.
Now that my shop is more organized, it is easier to knock off these simple projects that make life easier. Organization does have its rewards.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
How to have a small fortune in ebony wood
Start with a LARGE one, of course. Here is the beginning of my chesspiece project.
And after the explosion, here is what is left.
The small crack got larger and snagged the large gouge.
I was a bit startled.
Need to get another stick.
Start with a LARGE one, of course. Here is the beginning of my chesspiece project.
And after the explosion, here is what is left.
The small crack got larger and snagged the large gouge.
I was a bit startled.
Need to get another stick.
Finally getting pieces of the workbench top glued together. Final top thickness will be between 3 1/2"-3 3/4" thick. Having to do it in 5 sections so I can joint then after glue up. Then glue them into two pieces for the planer. 
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jimreed2160
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rrich1--Good progress on your workbench.
Thanks. I feel like it is slow progress.
I currently trying to find a leg vise screw kit that doesn't cost as much if not more than the lumber for the actual bench.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: i like your Yankee MINI ME!! just curious if you'd maybe have cut the original piece of ebony in half before putting on the lathe do you think it still would have split? and wouldn't that have been enough wood to do a little pawn?
CSR: great looking pens you make that is for certain!!
BJ & Auto: thanks for the posts about headphone options. i still haven't bought any yet, but good to have ideas.
anybody else like their music option for shop or outside work please post them up???
CSR: great looking pens you make that is for certain!!
BJ & Auto: thanks for the posts about headphone options. i still haven't bought any yet, but good to have ideas.
anybody else like their music option for shop or outside work please post them up???
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Well I should have picked a piece without a visible split. I was hoping to work around it. Or should have dribbled some superglue into the crack. Or could have planed it down. Shoulda, coulda, woulda...
CSRPenFab
Well-known member
I feel your pain. I hate when stuff on the lathe blows up. Usually it's my fault for rushing the process, but I've learned a steady drip of Thin CA in split or punky wood can save a lot of headaches.
TwoBytes
Well-known member
Very nice Jim.
This was my old one (still in use)...
View media item 70336
And it's vaguely WW related, because I built the speakers from a kit...
From this...
View media item 70337
To this...
View media item 70338
And with the speaker cover back on...
View media item 70335
I added a Bluetooth reciever to the old Akai amp, and it works great.
But it's not portable.
So I added this to the arsenal a few weeks ago...
View media item 70339
It's been fantastic to have it wherever I'm working
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Two--Good upgrade to your shop tunes. I just work better with tunes. And you are right about the ww tie in. Some of my earliest ww projects were speaker boxes. Back in the day, speakers in my price range sounded like tin cans, so I purchased a primo speaker from an electronics catalog, bought some speaker cloth, and made my own plywood box with sound holes. It just blew me away to rock out in my room to 1960s sounds.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
A dog named Tippy
My dad the vet ran an unofficial pet placement service and I was often the recipient. When I was 10 or 11 I picked up a fox terrier pup from a breeder. He was unable to show or breed so it looked like a one way trip was in his future. We became fast pals but his keen intelligence was his undoing. This fox terrier was a bored housepet and quickly wore out his welcome. He found a more suitable home as a guard dog but there was a hole in my heart. Luckily, a substitute arrived soon--a small terrier named "Tippy". He was smart also, but much more agreeable inside and quickly made friends all around.
I bring up Tippy because I was reminded of him this morning when I put the feet on the sewing box. But I get ahead of myself. First I had to cut off the tenons. It was a job for a coping saw and a Parker vise.
I cut them very short.
And glued them in place.
The clamps were really not necessary because they were a tight fit. I could not wait to try them out. AND THEN--I was reminded of Tippy.
With the lid open, the center of gravity changes and the box becomes "Tippy". OUCH!
Looks like more "wood reworking" is in store. I guess I will add a fifth wheel to the rear to stabilize the open box.
My dad the vet ran an unofficial pet placement service and I was often the recipient. When I was 10 or 11 I picked up a fox terrier pup from a breeder. He was unable to show or breed so it looked like a one way trip was in his future. We became fast pals but his keen intelligence was his undoing. This fox terrier was a bored housepet and quickly wore out his welcome. He found a more suitable home as a guard dog but there was a hole in my heart. Luckily, a substitute arrived soon--a small terrier named "Tippy". He was smart also, but much more agreeable inside and quickly made friends all around.
I bring up Tippy because I was reminded of him this morning when I put the feet on the sewing box. But I get ahead of myself. First I had to cut off the tenons. It was a job for a coping saw and a Parker vise.
I cut them very short.
And glued them in place.
The clamps were really not necessary because they were a tight fit. I could not wait to try them out. AND THEN--I was reminded of Tippy.
With the lid open, the center of gravity changes and the box becomes "Tippy". OUCH!
Looks like more "wood reworking" is in store. I guess I will add a fifth wheel to the rear to stabilize the open box.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Chess piece continued
So the ebony did not work well. Too brittle. I thought I might try walnut and then stain it to match. I found a nice board that is short, thin and wainy on one end--not your typical primo stock.
It started good. I love to turn walnut.
Cylinder--check.
To every season, turn, turn, turn...snap!
OUCH! This little project is really kicking my behind.
So the ebony did not work well. Too brittle. I thought I might try walnut and then stain it to match. I found a nice board that is short, thin and wainy on one end--not your typical primo stock.
It started good. I love to turn walnut.
Cylinder--check.
To every season, turn, turn, turn...snap!
OUCH! This little project is really kicking my behind.
ALinCarolina
Well-known member
Dang Jim, sorry for the bad luck on the turning. I'm surprised. What turning tool were you using when they broke? Spindle roughing gouge?
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
I was working at the break with a skew chisel. Just got too close. Next attempt will be maple.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: this might sound stupid, but why are your pieces of wood so long that you are using to make your pawn on your lathe? is there a minimum size requirement? i think i recall being able to make a bowl with the block of wood just attached to the bit on the left side or was/am i mistaken?
even though you are making a challenge out of this pawn i (we) are learning from your mistakes.
good luck
even though you are making a challenge out of this pawn i (we) are learning from your mistakes.
good luck
Craptain
Well-known member
I am thinking like drives. I would be thinking of chucking up a shorter piece rather than the longer spindles.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Well I started long so I could make a few to choose from. But I think you are correct. The long piece does seem to stress a lot. The chuck does seem like a good thing to try.
derosa
Well-known member
The replacement gear showed up for my jet planer/moulder, it stripped out last week after running 180 linear feet of moulding through it. Now that I could plane I could get started on the windows yesterday and finished with three total this afternoon.
I cut the center board of the double windows too tall by 3/8 of an inch and didn't realize till I tried to put the header on, couple minutes with a stanley 750 chisel and the header fit over the top of the center board perfectly, don't even need to use filler and it was sharp enough to not need a mallet even for cutting through the grain.
I've got the wood to finish another window but will need to buy more to keep going. There's another 20 windows to go along with the 12 more doorways besides the ones I've done. It is amazing the transformation that trim can make on a place.
I cut the center board of the double windows too tall by 3/8 of an inch and didn't realize till I tried to put the header on, couple minutes with a stanley 750 chisel and the header fit over the top of the center board perfectly, don't even need to use filler and it was sharp enough to not need a mallet even for cutting through the grain.
I've got the wood to finish another window but will need to buy more to keep going. There's another 20 windows to go along with the 12 more doorways besides the ones I've done. It is amazing the transformation that trim can make on a place.
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derosa
Well-known member
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Derosa--Wow. Lotsa trim work. That is really a project of love. Of course, at the end there should be lots of time to admire your work. Good stuff. And we all enjoy the pictures.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Derosa: if that's really your house you are restoring do you have any current pictures of the outside? nice work on the window trim and what kind of wood is that? PINE or ??
JIM: here's to third time's a charm on the PAWN.
good luck
JIM: here's to third time's a charm on the PAWN.
good luck
derosa
Well-known member
Sadly, unless I find a church job with a parsonage the house goes up for sale next month.
That really is my house. What's sad is that people around here can live in such squaller that I actually had people glad I had "moved in" since it was such a nice house. I was actually living 75 miles away and camping in an RVto begin with.
The wood is quarter sawn tulip poplar, local small lumber place is selling it to me for 1.80 a board ft measured at 4/4 even though its 3/4. He would be charging 2.20 bf if it was real 4/4 so a good price. To box a window I only have to joint an edge , cut to width, one run across the jointer to flatten though it may still be rough, then plane the other side. For trim I do the same but run the still rough but flat side through the moulding knives which run deep enough to smooth everything. The edges are cut down a touch on the tablesaw and any saw marks or jointer marks are skimmed off with a block plane. The back is relieved with a dado blade.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
DeRosa: You did even a better job on the siding. is that cedar and did you end taking off most of it and then replacing the good pieces? then filling in with new lumber where you needed some?
looks great and guessing you bought it to flip it so best of luck!!
looks great and guessing you bought it to flip it so best of luck!!
derosa
Well-known member
None of the original was cedar, just pine or whatever they had locally. The underlayment on just this side was reused siding, on the other sides it was one of two different tongue and groove boards. because of the makeup of this side the whole wall had to be stripped and 1/2" osb put up, the ladder actually went through the wall.
There is no thought of flipping though if I have to sell it I will make out, the property was 11k and I only have about 27-28k into it. My wife received a new job in the NYC area that is too good to pass up, if I can get a church with a manse/parsonage we will keep this one as a retreat. In which case I will tear up all the downstairs floors and replace with new hardwood and radiant floor heating. If we have to buy a place then this one gets sold and the full amount of the sale goes into a down payment for another house. We would probably rent first and look for a distressed property that has been foreclosed on and try to buy outright and fix it up.
There is no thought of flipping though if I have to sell it I will make out, the property was 11k and I only have about 27-28k into it. My wife received a new job in the NYC area that is too good to pass up, if I can get a church with a manse/parsonage we will keep this one as a retreat. In which case I will tear up all the downstairs floors and replace with new hardwood and radiant floor heating. If we have to buy a place then this one gets sold and the full amount of the sale goes into a down payment for another house. We would probably rent first and look for a distressed property that has been foreclosed on and try to buy outright and fix it up.
Slowly moving along. I made the top into 5 sections so it can fit the jointer. Got them all glued and jointed the top side. Will plane them to final thickness tomorrow and hopefully get them glued together. Really happy with the look of the hickory with the syp. Adds a nice subtle touch. Bad lighting pics coming. Length will be either 5ft or 5'2" overall. 
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jimreed2160
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Derosa--Thanks for the details on how you do the trim. I think that is the allure of ww--a little machining lets the wood do the talking. Good luck with your future plans. Hope everything works out.
rrich1--The bench is coming along nicely. I agree with you--syp and hickory like each other and mix well. Looks like you are going to be punching out dog holes pretty soon.
All--My current score with the pawn is 0-2 and my enthusiasm is fading fast. North Florida weather has turned and my shop usually hits 80 degrees by noon. For example, the outdoor temp today is 61 degrees at 7:00am, so the shop is probably a little above 65. Even with the dehumidifier, my time is limited to a few hours at best. The allure of the (inside) secretary desk project increases more every day.
rrich1--The bench is coming along nicely. I agree with you--syp and hickory like each other and mix well. Looks like you are going to be punching out dog holes pretty soon.
All--My current score with the pawn is 0-2 and my enthusiasm is fading fast. North Florida weather has turned and my shop usually hits 80 degrees by noon. For example, the outdoor temp today is 61 degrees at 7:00am, so the shop is probably a little above 65. Even with the dehumidifier, my time is limited to a few hours at best. The allure of the (inside) secretary desk project increases more every day.