CRSINMICH
Well-known member
jim: Jeeze! I've never been a trendsetter before. LOL. That one is great. I wonder how it got left incomplete for so long. Congrats on the find.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
...I quickly finished the rectangular plug and applied stain. Now it is time to move on to the drawer slides. Two of them are very worn. I will glue in strips of hardwood. Time to go to the scrap pile.
A Fuller bit and plug cutter can produce a tight fit with no gap between the plug and hole. Recommended.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
JimReed, I have the exact drawer repair on my list of to do(s). I rebuilt an antique secretary desk about 37 years ago... that was found on an OPEN front porch... the base was trimmed to make it fit on a slanted floor... The bottom drawer needs that repair now... after using for a "bar supply" cabinet in my living room(s)...
Nice to see others have my projects...
Nice to see others have my projects...
R_einan
Well-known member
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Pelican--It is amazing what you will find on a front porch. The dresser I use is made from rich red Empire period walnut with beautifully figured walnut veneer on the drawer fronts. It has small hand cut dovetails. I got off the bus in Dayton, OH one day and saw it on a porch. I spoke to the owner and returned with my car and $25.
Good luck on your find. I have built up drawer sides with multiple thin strips of veneer. The desk I am working on has replaced bottoms on most of the drawers. Someone squared off the lower inch or two and replaced the side with a rabbet for the drawer bottom. Sometimes the slide frames can be reversed. I was going to fix these with wood putty but it had dried up and the strips seemed to be easier and less stinky. Once I finish I plan to coat the moving pieces heavily with paraffin to extend their life. I will add a block of paraffin so the current owners can keep it up.
Please show us your repair once you get around to it.
Good luck on your find. I have built up drawer sides with multiple thin strips of veneer. The desk I am working on has replaced bottoms on most of the drawers. Someone squared off the lower inch or two and replaced the side with a rabbet for the drawer bottom. Sometimes the slide frames can be reversed. I was going to fix these with wood putty but it had dried up and the strips seemed to be easier and less stinky. Once I finish I plan to coat the moving pieces heavily with paraffin to extend their life. I will add a block of paraffin so the current owners can keep it up.
Please show us your repair once you get around to it.
The night started off well. I cut the box in half and got the cut edges leveled off best I could. I beveled the edges slightly to help cover any mistakes. I then decided to tackle the hinges. I got them all marked out and it started off well. The sapele then started to flake on me causing the mortises to not be so even. One fit nice and snug while the other had some play. Ok I can live with it. I then pre drilled for the screws. Did one in each first. I then used the steel screw brusso supplies with the brass hinges. I did the first one fine and then it snapped in the second hole. FML. I drilled the rest of the holes and then one of the brass screws snapped off leaving two screws deep into the wood. Fudge. I got the rest of them in but am not sure what to do at this point.
I need to chisel out a small relief in the front for a finger grab but I am worried the sapele will flake on me again. I'm thinking of just taking a router bit to it for a recess in the wood.
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I need to chisel out a small relief in the front for a finger grab but I am worried the sapele will flake on me again. I'm thinking of just taking a router bit to it for a recess in the wood.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
lucy: Welcome to this thread. If you ever figure out THE solution to not enough space you'll be a hero to woodworkers everywhere. You'll probably have to try several things including the one that is hardest for me - put my things away when I'm through with them. Mobile bases can help. So can storage bins and containers. As for your bench being too small, You might be able to figure out a way to add temporary extensions for projects that require more bench surface. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress and projects.
rrich: The box is looking good! You got the proportions of lid to bottom just right. I can't wait to see it with finish on it. Hinges and small brass screws are the bane of woodworker's everywhere. Using the steel screw to cut threads for the brass screws was a good idea. It's just too bad the steel screw broke too. That shouldn't have happened. It must have been a cheapy. Did you put some wax on the threads of the brass screws before you put them in? That can act as a lubricant. How about a small tasteful brass knob for the lid? Good luck completing the box.
rrich: The box is looking good! You got the proportions of lid to bottom just right. I can't wait to see it with finish on it. Hinges and small brass screws are the bane of woodworker's everywhere. Using the steel screw to cut threads for the brass screws was a good idea. It's just too bad the steel screw broke too. That shouldn't have happened. It must have been a cheapy. Did you put some wax on the threads of the brass screws before you put them in? That can act as a lubricant. How about a small tasteful brass knob for the lid? Good luck completing the box.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
LUCY: are you able to post up a few pictures of your woodshop/garage and some of the tools and machines you own? of course we'd all like a 40x120 with no heat or electric bills, but not in the cards for most of us. currently i only have the 9x15 portion of our 2 car garage, a shed and lots of storage so i can feel your pain. good luck and thanks for opening up this topic!!
RR: only suggestion i have is to maybe carefully drill out the broken brass screw since brass is fairly soft, but maybe some of the other guys have a better solution. sorry for your pain and frustration, but you've accomplished making a box that i haven't tried yet so good for you so far.
good luck
RR: only suggestion i have is to maybe carefully drill out the broken brass screw since brass is fairly soft, but maybe some of the other guys have a better solution. sorry for your pain and frustration, but you've accomplished making a box that i haven't tried yet so good for you so far.
good luck
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
rrich--I am starting to hate screws. They were sure made better back in the day. Hardwoods only compound the problem. On my recent desk project I found that I needed to drill a proper pilot-not small, but pretty large. I also needed to use a steel screw first and lubricate all of them. I think in the future I will drill an oversized pilot and then put soft pine splinters and glue in for friction. I think your only choice is to drill and replace. Or you could just cut off the head and epoxy it into place.
lucy--Space is everywhere and you need to get creative. Drives had an excellent suggestion with the pictures. We love pictures. Having a large shop is really a luxury because you can work on wood anywhere. I refinished an antique spool desk while I was living in a dorm. Then I built not one, but two, grandfather clocks on a tiny deck while I was living in a tiny apartment. While living at home, my dad converted mom's laundry room to a production darkroom--it was amazing with flip down work surfaces and pop up tables. Ingenuity will get you making shavings. We will be happy to advise.
lucy--Space is everywhere and you need to get creative. Drives had an excellent suggestion with the pictures. We love pictures. Having a large shop is really a luxury because you can work on wood anywhere. I refinished an antique spool desk while I was living in a dorm. Then I built not one, but two, grandfather clocks on a tiny deck while I was living in a tiny apartment. While living at home, my dad converted mom's laundry room to a production darkroom--it was amazing with flip down work surfaces and pop up tables. Ingenuity will get you making shavings. We will be happy to advise.
what screws are you buying jim? As far as rrich, I hate having to use screws included in anything. Some of the things I've bought from HF, for example have more money in hardware than in the item itself. Most of the time you get a better bolt in a hardware drawer than you do in a bag included in something you bought. That said, hardware in general has gone downhill in recent years but there are some more tolerable than others.
I don't think I'll ever use a screw included in any High Point hardware ever again.
I don't think I'll ever use a screw included in any High Point hardware ever again.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Cheechi--Buying screws? I mostly use stuff I find in my shop. Maybe I need to throw out those packaged things and buy some real stuff.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Clamp rack
OK. Once you acquire a bunch of clamps your next problem is where to put them. Most clamps are special purpose tools and they spend most of their time waiting for a mission. So you don't want them in high traffic areas. Of course, if you put them too far out, they get lost--or in my case--forgotten about. Over time my shop has evolved to the point that I store similar clamps together. The large clamps are in the back room and are out of the way. The woodscrews are under the workbench--close enough to grab but still out of the way. The pinch clamps are on a rod above my fixit bench.
I drove two long drywall screws into the top frame and laid a piece of 1/4" drill rod over them. Then I just hung the clamps. They are close at hand but out of the way. To use then I just have to open them enough to clear the rod. BTW--that is getting harder to do these days. Just as old clothes shrink in the closet, the tension of pinch clamp springs increases over time. I am sure there is some sort of scientific explanation.
OK. Once you acquire a bunch of clamps your next problem is where to put them. Most clamps are special purpose tools and they spend most of their time waiting for a mission. So you don't want them in high traffic areas. Of course, if you put them too far out, they get lost--or in my case--forgotten about. Over time my shop has evolved to the point that I store similar clamps together. The large clamps are in the back room and are out of the way. The woodscrews are under the workbench--close enough to grab but still out of the way. The pinch clamps are on a rod above my fixit bench.
I drove two long drywall screws into the top frame and laid a piece of 1/4" drill rod over them. Then I just hung the clamps. They are close at hand but out of the way. To use then I just have to open them enough to clear the rod. BTW--that is getting harder to do these days. Just as old clothes shrink in the closet, the tension of pinch clamp springs increases over time. I am sure there is some sort of scientific explanation.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Plane repair
The glue dried overnight so I got out an assortment of planes to help with the drawer slide adjustment.
The best candidate seemed to be the LN block rabbet plane. But there was an issue.
Yeah. Not that the mouth is too tight--it just does not exist. I think I used this plane once and not much then. The mouth is just too tight for a shaving to exit.
So I just clamped it in my Parker vise. Eeeekkkkkkkk! A LN plane in a vise--ouch.
Sorry for the picture if you are squeamish. Turns out the mouth configuration was too tight to file that way so I had to take it out.
Holding it in my hand allowed me to go in from the top instead of the bottom and I could see what I was doing. It only took a few swipes to remove a (Bible)paper thin amount of metal. The result was still tight but much better. Here is a picture with the blade retracted a bit.
The proof, of course, is in the shavings.
Now I can proceed and trim those wood strips in the drawer slides.
The glue dried overnight so I got out an assortment of planes to help with the drawer slide adjustment.
The best candidate seemed to be the LN block rabbet plane. But there was an issue.
Yeah. Not that the mouth is too tight--it just does not exist. I think I used this plane once and not much then. The mouth is just too tight for a shaving to exit.
So I just clamped it in my Parker vise. Eeeekkkkkkkk! A LN plane in a vise--ouch.
Sorry for the picture if you are squeamish. Turns out the mouth configuration was too tight to file that way so I had to take it out.
Holding it in my hand allowed me to go in from the top instead of the bottom and I could see what I was doing. It only took a few swipes to remove a (Bible)paper thin amount of metal. The result was still tight but much better. Here is a picture with the blade retracted a bit.
The proof, of course, is in the shavings.
Now I can proceed and trim those wood strips in the drawer slides.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Trimming drawer slides
I assembled a bunch of tools like the LN rabbet but this job is really kicking my ****. Even with a bunch of planes on hand, the best tool for the end area was a Japanese paring chisel. It was dynamite.
I set my Stanley #92 in bullnose mode.
Turns out that this configuration of the plane has been used by the CIA during tough interrogations. I am sure of it although they will neither confirm or deny. The multiple sharp edges are really tough on tender paws but at least it works in tight spots.
Sorry for the poor photo, but here is the top slide after much gnawing with all of the planes and the chisel.
Sorry to $itch and moan but squatting down to work inside the carcass is not the easiest thing for me to do. Even with short sessions, things start to lock up. I might have to put this case back up on the bench. OUCH.
I will post more pictures once my knees recover and I can hobble back into the shop.
I assembled a bunch of tools like the LN rabbet but this job is really kicking my ****. Even with a bunch of planes on hand, the best tool for the end area was a Japanese paring chisel. It was dynamite.
I set my Stanley #92 in bullnose mode.
Turns out that this configuration of the plane has been used by the CIA during tough interrogations. I am sure of it although they will neither confirm or deny. The multiple sharp edges are really tough on tender paws but at least it works in tight spots.
Sorry for the poor photo, but here is the top slide after much gnawing with all of the planes and the chisel.
Sorry to $itch and moan but squatting down to work inside the carcass is not the easiest thing for me to do. Even with short sessions, things start to lock up. I might have to put this case back up on the bench. OUCH.
I will post more pictures once my knees recover and I can hobble back into the shop.
Thanks guys. I tried to drill the screws out already. Ill try again tonight. If I cant get them out I will glue the tip of the broken one in and cut the other one and glue it in as well.
Jim: I really really want one of the LN rabbet block planes. I just missed out on one on ebay the other day.
Jim: I really really want one of the LN rabbet block planes. I just missed out on one on ebay the other day.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
I have had this one around for years but never got a chance to use it. Until today, it would have been on my surplus list. But it performed well on this difficult task and beat out several of the others. So not it gets moved way up on the keeper list.
Well if you decide to get rid of it hit me up [emoji16]
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
1--the pilot hole for your screws is too small, causing them to break. The hinges appear to be a bit too wide for the thickness of the box material. And the mortises look to be too long for the hinge length.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Jim. Let me know if you need help getting the project up on the bench.
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ScottsGT
Well-known member
I was watching that auction. It sold for $7 less than you can order it new direct from LN.
Pilot hole was the right size they just weren't long enough. I contacted brusso and that was the hinge they recommended when I gave them the dimensions of the wood. I already stated I got one of the mortises too big. Anything else?
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Scott's: it's ridiculous what some of the planes are going for. I've been really wanting a veritas shoulder plane and they are selling for within $10 of normal pricing. People are ebaying it wrong.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
REMINDER
Speaking of planes, if you have some, here is a link to the "Show Us Your Planes" thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277733&highlight=planes&page=7
Liking this, but then I have a thing for figured wood, especially quilted maple. Nice.
BobL.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Going to "the box"
Most of my really good planes are stored in boxes inside where the humidity is less. If I need something really special, I go to the box. So after my brain finished its batch processing last night, it told me what to do. Here is the box I went for.
And here is the gem I was looking for.
It is an old Preston bullnose rabbet. My guess is that Stanley copied the Preston design for their #90. I like this plane because it is so comfortable to hold and use.
The brain batch also spat out a solution to the kneeling torture.
Rescued by a kitty litter pail seat and a Preston bull nose, I went to work on the remaining drawer slide. As expected, the Preston gnawed that cherry like a bad dog breaking in a new mailman.
Here is where I am working.
So I gnawed away for twenty minutes and made good progress. NOTE TO SELF--When repairing drawer slides, figured cherry offcuts should be used as a LAST resort. Here is where I left off.
The trial fit went great but I still need to do a little clean up and waxing. At least this part of the project is almost over. Normally, I love plane work but being inside the box really ***** the starch out of a good time.
Most of my really good planes are stored in boxes inside where the humidity is less. If I need something really special, I go to the box. So after my brain finished its batch processing last night, it told me what to do. Here is the box I went for.
And here is the gem I was looking for.
It is an old Preston bullnose rabbet. My guess is that Stanley copied the Preston design for their #90. I like this plane because it is so comfortable to hold and use.
The brain batch also spat out a solution to the kneeling torture.
Rescued by a kitty litter pail seat and a Preston bull nose, I went to work on the remaining drawer slide. As expected, the Preston gnawed that cherry like a bad dog breaking in a new mailman.
Here is where I am working.
So I gnawed away for twenty minutes and made good progress. NOTE TO SELF--When repairing drawer slides, figured cherry offcuts should be used as a LAST resort. Here is where I left off.
The trial fit went great but I still need to do a little clean up and waxing. At least this part of the project is almost over. Normally, I love plane work but being inside the box really ***** the starch out of a good time.
R_einan
Well-known member
Thanks bob, I am really liking the way it is taking shape. Little more difficult to work than some other woods I’ve used, but I think the rewards are worth it.
Those look useful, I’ll have to remember those!
Sorry to hear about the troubles rich, it’s a pain when things go wrong. Wish I had a trick up my sleeve to help you out with, but sounds like you’re on the same path I’d take. I’ve never worked with Sapele and from your experiences I may use extra caution if/when I try. I still think the box looks very nice, much better than what I would likely be capable of on a first try.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
When you screw up a project, try to learn from your mistakes, rather than rationalizing your poor choices or just getting angry and blaming the hardware supplier. Also learn how to repair the screw-ups.
The F'd up hinge mortise can be filled using a scrap of wood from the same piece, epoxied in, and then the mortise can be re-cut. The broken screws can be removed using this tool (use the smallest size that will fit the screw), the hole dowel-ed and then re-drilled to the proper size/depth.
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shortykorte
Well-known member
Thank you for posting this tool. I have one and always wonder what it was.
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
The proper tool for pilot drilling for wood screws is a Fuller bit.
Got the vise chop finally sized and cut. With no vise to clamp it in for final planing you have to make things work. This actually worked really well. Now if only I had a screw so I could put it in. The wait continues. 
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
rrich--Sometimes ya just got to innovate.
R_einan
Well-known member
Alright guys, need a little help. I have been designing this coffee table as I go and have a leg and apron design in mind. But I have run into an issue... I want to do a double bridle in the top of the legs. I had planned the aprons to be 3" tall which means the cuts in the end of each leg need to be 3" deep. The idea is to have the aprons run through each leg so that you see the end grain of the maple aprons on both outsides of each leg. I was going to notch the top of one apron and the bottom of the apron so they lock together in the center of each leg. I really didn't want to rebate the aprons where they meet the leg. The legs will be tapered from 3" down to 2" or 1 1/2" after the bridle cuts are made. My intention was to bring the taper all the way up to the table top.
Here is my issue: my dado set is only an 8" blade, leaving me with a maximum depth of ~2"... leaving me with 2 options... 1.) rebate the height of the apron to 2" where it will enter the leg, which takes away from the visual on the outsides of the legs, and also leaves me a angular issue to overcome so the joinery is tight. Or 2.) use a standard kerf blade to make multiples cuts until I reach the ~13/16" width thickness of the aprons and clean up the bottom of the notch with a chisel.
Any thoughts gentlemen? I am leaning towards the 2nd option, but thought I might ask some more experiences individuals.
Here is my issue: my dado set is only an 8" blade, leaving me with a maximum depth of ~2"... leaving me with 2 options... 1.) rebate the height of the apron to 2" where it will enter the leg, which takes away from the visual on the outsides of the legs, and also leaves me a angular issue to overcome so the joinery is tight. Or 2.) use a standard kerf blade to make multiples cuts until I reach the ~13/16" width thickness of the aprons and clean up the bottom of the notch with a chisel.
Any thoughts gentlemen? I am leaning towards the 2nd option, but thought I might ask some more experiences individuals.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
R--post a photo of a sketch.
R_einan
Well-known member
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Looks like a weak joint with so much material cut away.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
All that short grain on the "hook" is very weak. And the glue doesn't add any strength to the joint; it just tries to keep it from falling apart.