Blue Frog
Well-known member
Has anyone heard from Jim Reed? The last post from him that I've been able to find was on 5/25.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
I have been wondering the same thing.
Top drawers are glued up and rough fitted in. The middle drawers are currently in glue up.
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Craptain
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I asked Shortykorte to check up on him. They live close by. Here's the reply.
"I have. With the heat he hasn't been in the garage and he's been painting the house interior."
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honza.vosalik
Well-known member
I'm trying to get into woodworking and looking into buying a pocket hole jig. I found these two:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Jig-Pocket-Hole-System-R3/202269070
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System-K4H/202074960
While the K4 seems really nice, it is also quite a bit more expensive. What is your take away on this? Would the cheaper tool do most of the jobs for a hobbyist?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Jig-Pocket-Hole-System-R3/202269070
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System-K4H/202074960
While the K4 seems really nice, it is also quite a bit more expensive. What is your take away on this? Would the cheaper tool do most of the jobs for a hobbyist?
Toolfool
Well-known member
I have a K4 mounted on a 24"x30" piece of 3/4" melamine. Works great.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
The pocket screw jig is singularly responsible for ruining more potential woodworkers than any other tool.
rlitman
Well-known member
ez-duzit
Well-known member
...without ever advancing your knowledge of woodworking.
raskal
Well-known member
I have this one and it works fine imo.
I'm not a huge fan of pocket holes but when I see them on plywood boxes they look not too bad.
The K4 adds the clamp that you have to do yourself with the smaller unit. Not really a big deal.
Ultimately, it comes down to what you want to achieve. I'm not really a woodworker, more of a fixer type, and the Kreg works fine when I need it.
I have the k4 and still use it from time to time. It is great for cabinetry and building drawers for cabinets. You can hide them behind other pieces and on the underside of furniture. Pocket holes is a good starting point to get into the newbie woodworking. You will quickly want to switch to other joinery as your interest in finer pieces grows. My biggest gripe with them is alignment and keeping the pieces from moving when glue is applied. You figure things out and it works fine.
The drawers are all glued up and roughly fit in. Some drawers were more finicky than others.
In order to spread my time management out better I stopped working on the drawers and started on the top. I milled the two pieces down and cut them to width. I didn't quite get the width I wanted but it will work fine. I'm shy by just over 1/2". There is still an overlap just not as much.
I used my newly acquired domino to help join the boards together. I had to stop at this point for the night.
I have a small insect slot on the top side of the board. I plan to fill it with clear epoxy as it is in the sapwood. Should I go ahead and use epoxy to glue to top up or go with tightbond 3 with the darker brown color. I've used epoxy for everything else.
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The drawers are all glued up and roughly fit in. Some drawers were more finicky than others.
In order to spread my time management out better I stopped working on the drawers and started on the top. I milled the two pieces down and cut them to width. I didn't quite get the width I wanted but it will work fine. I'm shy by just over 1/2". There is still an overlap just not as much.
I used my newly acquired domino to help join the boards together. I had to stop at this point for the night.
I have a small insect slot on the top side of the board. I plan to fill it with clear epoxy as it is in the sapwood. Should I go ahead and use epoxy to glue to top up or go with tightbond 3 with the darker brown color. I've used epoxy for everything else.
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txlonghorn1989
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Those drawers look great!
wood02
Well-known member
I have this...Porter Cable 560 Quick Jig...never was a fan of pocket holes, until my son bought me this as a gift. Sure is quick.
I am by no means a fanatic of pocket hole joinery but I do not understand the level of angst this causes. I am sure the puritans who use nothing but hand tools say the same of planers and joiners. The looks on the faces of those same people cringe at the sight of a Lamello (biscuit joiner for you heathens) and don’t get me started on the even newer kid of the block - Domino. Why use a precision router table or table saw when you can use mold board planes!? Get over yourselves. I am positive there are woodworkers who turn out much better furniture than most here that hide a pocket hole, biscuit, or domino and y’all would be none the wiser. Gone are the days of hand cut dove tails for knocking out drawers (who has time for that? I use Incra.) unless it is a small jewelry box and we want people to see a marginal product at best compare to modern techniques. I say to y’all - buy that pocket hole, biscuit, or domino and don’t worry about Roy Underhill over here. Appreciate the joinery of yesteryear but don’t hold back from being able to use the correct tool for the job. If that means batching our drawer boxes using pocket holes do it! Get in the shop and make something, you will be on your fourth project by the time the puritans finish a chest using nothing but hand tools.
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signcrafter
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- May 9, 2012
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Pocket screws have their place just like anything else. While some may have chose pockets over more complicated joinery it probably also got more people started in wood working because it allows them to make things they wouldn't be able to without more experience and expensive tools. I use mine all the time for "rough" stuff like shop shelves or things that I want quick, easy, and strong. Now if I'm doing something more fancy then I will do rabbits, dados, mortise and tenon, etc. I will use some pocket screws on fancier stuff IF they will be hidden 100 percent. Just because they are quick and easy to get parts lined up. Then spend more time where it counts on joints that will be visable. Everything has a place.
Craptain
Well-known member
What a great well reasoned post topcok.
I have and use a pocket screw jig for some projects but not for "joinery" projects. I also have and use a biscuit jointer. I admit that I no longer use dowels, or at least haven't seen the need for a number of years. Never say never.
In short, I just do whatever makes most sense for the project in hand. Case in point. My bathroom vanity is assembled with pocket hole joints. But the facing is built using conventional joinery. There you go. Melding of the new and the old.
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I have and use a pocket screw jig for some projects but not for "joinery" projects. I also have and use a biscuit jointer. I admit that I no longer use dowels, or at least haven't seen the need for a number of years. Never say never.
In short, I just do whatever makes most sense for the project in hand. Case in point. My bathroom vanity is assembled with pocket hole joints. But the facing is built using conventional joinery. There you go. Melding of the new and the old.
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rlitman
Well-known member
I recently installed a wall hung vanity in my basement. The brackets that came with the Ikea assembly were probably fine to hold up a lightweight sink over a cheap coutertop (if I were able to bolt them to the wall in their exact locations), but I mounted a heavy glass vessel sink over a solid surface counter, and on top of that I was concerned about the room's occupant leaning or falling on the countertop. So, how'se this for a melding of new and new?
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TwoBytes
Well-known member
That's the strongest IKEA furniture I've ever seen!
Love it!
Craptain
Well-known member
But does it still carry the warranty? [emoji16]
That's the strongest IKEA furniture I've ever seen!
Love it!
[emoji106]
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rlitman
Well-known member
Ha! What's a warranty?
My idea was that if the cabinet were destroyed, I could easily replace it without touching the counter-top, sink or plumbing. Nothing is attached to that left wall, and the corian counter is completely supported by the steel (which is bolted into blocking that I framed into the wall before it was closed), without putting any weight on the cabinet. So if someone were to stumble out of the shower and land hard on the counter (the fear that caused me to go to this length), it's not going anywhere.
I had to go with steel so as not to interfere with the almost full depth drawers and plumbing that miraculously fits in there like a high level on Tetris.
It's mounted next to a wall hung toilet to continue the whole floating theme. That Toto beauty came with a steel frame that has to be framed into the wall and bolted to the slab to hide the tank and give you the full 880lbs rating.
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With the top all glued up it was time to put a curve on the ends. I made a template from mdf and plywood. I cut the mdf to the size of the top plus enough room for 3/4" piece of plywood on each side. I marked the center and every 1/4" to help with laying out the curve. I used a flexible curve guide to make the curve. This template is flexible yet stiff and has screw holes to hold the shape that you want.
Once I was happy with the curve I used a flush trim bit to trim the mdf to the curve. The curve wasn't perfect and I used a sanding block to do the final shaping.
After the shaping was finished I glued on the plywood pieces which allowed the jig to stay aligned while on the table top. I shimmed one side with painters tape to center the jig.
I put the jig on and traced the curve a d the back line of the jig to reference where I would place the blue tape and to cut the excess off of the front.
I then used the flush trim bit again on the router table and trimmed the top to the jig. This worked very well. The larger size of the jig allowed me a spot to start the bit to the piece.
Before adding the bottom round over I am going to measure the top to the base and Mark my lines.
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Once I was happy with the curve I used a flush trim bit to trim the mdf to the curve. The curve wasn't perfect and I used a sanding block to do the final shaping.
After the shaping was finished I glued on the plywood pieces which allowed the jig to stay aligned while on the table top. I shimmed one side with painters tape to center the jig.
I put the jig on and traced the curve a d the back line of the jig to reference where I would place the blue tape and to cut the excess off of the front.
I then used the flush trim bit again on the router table and trimmed the top to the jig. This worked very well. The larger size of the jig allowed me a spot to start the bit to the piece.
Before adding the bottom round over I am going to measure the top to the base and Mark my lines.
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
1--a very fair curve can be created by bending a thin batten of straight-grained wood across 3 points (I use lead weights for those points). The curve is first drawn onto a piece of door skin and then transferred to the workpiece after refining with a plane or sanding block. Often 1/2 the curve on the door skin is more nearly perfect than the other, so I use that 1/2 (flipped over) to transfer the curve to the workpiece.
If I was better at doing anything symmetrical I would have gone that route. But unfortunately that isn't in my bag of tricks. [emoji38]. This gave me a hard reference surface to flush trim a curve from instead of rough cutting and then doing it by hand. This turned out really well and didn't take long at all.
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Routed the underside of the top yesterday. Will put either a mild chamfer or just break the top edge. Haven't decided yet.
Also started to make/install the drawer guides. No pics but turning out to be a major pain so far.
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Also started to make/install the drawer guides. No pics but turning out to be a major pain so far.
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Process shots of making some drawer pulls. Not positive they will be used but i do like them. 
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Craptain
Well-known member
This is basically the method I used to build my bathroom vanity. I used pins to locate the batten as I did this before adding the formica so no witness marks.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
ALL: it's been way too long since I visited this great thread, but i have a question that maybe has been discussed or needs to be updated.
i'm getting ready to start a huge cedar fence project and then a cedar deck project and I'm heading down the rabbit hole of Circular and Miter saw blades.
anybody agree the Diablo or Freud blades are the best or do tell what is the best for cutting mostly cedar and lumber?
I needed a few basic blades for other projects so found a seller on craigs that had some new old Dewalt blades to sell along with a few rotohammer bits that I can use.
the Dewalt blade on my 12 inch compound sliding miter saw I think is 40 tooth and it cuts cedar nicely so not sure what i'll use the 80 tooth for, but i'm sure i'll find something to cut down the road.
THOUGHTS ON SAW BLADES? brands and type?
i'm getting ready to start a huge cedar fence project and then a cedar deck project and I'm heading down the rabbit hole of Circular and Miter saw blades.
anybody agree the Diablo or Freud blades are the best or do tell what is the best for cutting mostly cedar and lumber?
I needed a few basic blades for other projects so found a seller on craigs that had some new old Dewalt blades to sell along with a few rotohammer bits that I can use.
the Dewalt blade on my 12 inch compound sliding miter saw I think is 40 tooth and it cuts cedar nicely so not sure what i'll use the 80 tooth for, but i'm sure i'll find something to cut down the road.
THOUGHTS ON SAW BLADES? brands and type?
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If you want the best then look no further than Forrest Saw Blades. The website is incredibly insightful/detailed about what makes a good blade for a specific task. Between Forrest Saw Blades and Whiteside Router bits I don’t think you can do any better.
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The 80th will leave smoother cleaner cuts when cross cutting the cedar.
I use Freud industrial blade on my miter saw but my table saw now has Amana blades. Still have a Freud industrial that I use often and gives great cuts.
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I use Freud industrial blade on my miter saw but my table saw now has Amana blades. Still have a Freud industrial that I use often and gives great cuts.
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Finally got some time back in the shop to work on the drawer pulls. Cut the rest out, sanded them down on the drill press drum sander and then finished with hand sanding. Really happy with them. Now I need to drill the back sides for the screws and finish the installation jig . 
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Sorry to have been MIA for awhile. Household projects have kept me busy. Here is my latest ww project.
My youngest daughter makes jewelry as a hobby so I made her a display stand using some exotic and figured scraps I found. The tower is bookmatched ebony and the arms are padouk. The base is a dense and heavy African hardwood that looks like walnut. Connecting bow tie is walnut and the rabbeted arms are attached to the base with dowels. It is sturdy enough to load and put on a table but it also has a hanger for wall if necessary.
Tanks for looking and I hope everyone is doing well.
My youngest daughter makes jewelry as a hobby so I made her a display stand using some exotic and figured scraps I found. The tower is bookmatched ebony and the arms are padouk. The base is a dense and heavy African hardwood that looks like walnut. Connecting bow tie is walnut and the rabbeted arms are attached to the base with dowels. It is sturdy enough to load and put on a table but it also has a hanger for wall if necessary.
Tanks for looking and I hope everyone is doing well.
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Toolfool
Well-known member
Very nice piece Jim. Glad to see you back. We need to meet one of these days.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
TC: thanks for the tip on the high end saw blades, but spending $300 for a saw blade isn't in my league at the moment.
RR: I realized I do have an 80 tooth already on my 12 inch dewalt saw and now I know why the cuts on the ends of the 2x6's I cut for my mailbox were so smooth. it's just a Dewalt blade so maybe when i move to cutting wood denser than cedar i'll move up in quality some.
thanks for the tips and nice work on the walnut handles!!
JR: welcome back and yes you were missed!! not sure you saw my questions yesterday, but i'm looking to buy new saw blades for all my circular and miter saws. diablo freud blades seem to be a bit better than average per reviews and wondering if you or others have a favorite?
ALL: i'm heading to HD now to pick up a couple diablo blades for my Makita 260mm beam saw and my other circular saws if they have any in stock. or do any of you have other favorites in that price range or maybe a bit more money do tell?
the Makita 260mm beam saw was a Craig's buy and the seller had been using an old 10 inch miter blade by turning it upside down so hopefully it will cut better and not try to kick back and cut me once I put the right 10 1/4 beam saw blade on it.
RR: I realized I do have an 80 tooth already on my 12 inch dewalt saw and now I know why the cuts on the ends of the 2x6's I cut for my mailbox were so smooth. it's just a Dewalt blade so maybe when i move to cutting wood denser than cedar i'll move up in quality some.
thanks for the tips and nice work on the walnut handles!!
JR: welcome back and yes you were missed!! not sure you saw my questions yesterday, but i'm looking to buy new saw blades for all my circular and miter saws. diablo freud blades seem to be a bit better than average per reviews and wondering if you or others have a favorite?
ALL: i'm heading to HD now to pick up a couple diablo blades for my Makita 260mm beam saw and my other circular saws if they have any in stock. or do any of you have other favorites in that price range or maybe a bit more money do tell?
the Makita 260mm beam saw was a Craig's buy and the seller had been using an old 10 inch miter blade by turning it upside down so hopefully it will cut better and not try to kick back and cut me once I put the right 10 1/4 beam saw blade on it.
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No problem I understand. Even if you can’t currently afford what there is to offer hopefully the information available on the website will tell you what to look for in a good blade. When I’m walking down the isles of the local stores I see the blade racks and it can be quite confusing if you don’t know what you need (cross cutting/ripping/general purpose). And honestly you will get more pleasure and quality out of any blade if you keep it clean! Look up videos describing how to clean your saw blades. The pitch/sap/resins/glues that are on lumber can do a number on the blade and sometimes a simple cleaning will breath enough life back into the blade to finish a project or two. Good luck!
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--My good blades are all Freud because they seem to work the best. I even have one for cutting brass (it is a non ferrous carbide blade with zero rake). For the chop saw and general TS work I pick up DeWalt carbides on sale at HD.
As you are aware, most cutting issues are due to dull and/or misused blades. You can extend the life of your good blades by swapping them out for old ones when you have to cut nasty stuff.
As you are aware, most cutting issues are due to dull and/or misused blades. You can extend the life of your good blades by swapping them out for old ones when you have to cut nasty stuff.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
TC: thanks again for the good words!!
Jim: thank you for the heads up and great tip that you can have a few old blades laying around to use when you are just cutting up junk.
ALL: I bought a 10 1/4 diablo beam saw blade for my Makita 260mm beam saw and now it cuts nicely and doesn't try to kick back and get me like it did with the 2 10 inch (dewalt and diablo) chop saw blades.
I also changed out my worm saw's diablo blade that I'd wager was put on maybe 20+ years ago. now it cuts like it should with a new demo blade for rough cuts. I started taking apart our deck to replace it and realized it would be best to keep it around while I plane up the 6x6's and 1x6 cedar fence boards so i had some scrap 2x10's to fill in where I took off old decking and trimmed it up some with the worm saw. not pretty, but it will do until i rebuild our deck.
I'll put on the nicer blades I bought for the chop saws and see how they work. I need to change the blades on my Ryobi 18v 5.5 inch skill saw and my old B&D 6.5 inch saw and i'm leaning towards diablo blades.
I bought a few more blades today to have some at the ready since they were a great price.
hope you all had a great weekend.
Jim: thank you for the heads up and great tip that you can have a few old blades laying around to use when you are just cutting up junk.
ALL: I bought a 10 1/4 diablo beam saw blade for my Makita 260mm beam saw and now it cuts nicely and doesn't try to kick back and get me like it did with the 2 10 inch (dewalt and diablo) chop saw blades.
I also changed out my worm saw's diablo blade that I'd wager was put on maybe 20+ years ago. now it cuts like it should with a new demo blade for rough cuts. I started taking apart our deck to replace it and realized it would be best to keep it around while I plane up the 6x6's and 1x6 cedar fence boards so i had some scrap 2x10's to fill in where I took off old decking and trimmed it up some with the worm saw. not pretty, but it will do until i rebuild our deck.
I'll put on the nicer blades I bought for the chop saws and see how they work. I need to change the blades on my Ryobi 18v 5.5 inch skill saw and my old B&D 6.5 inch saw and i'm leaning towards diablo blades.
I bought a few more blades today to have some at the ready since they were a great price.
hope you all had a great weekend.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
What a haul!
"Don't give him shade, dudes got a blade,"
"Don't give him shade, dudes got a blade,"
With much hesitation and lots of re checking I drilled the holes for the drawer pulls today. It went well. I might resize the holes a little to allow for some wiggle room. But overall they turned out well. Up next is to even out the gaps and plane the tops to give a less snug fit. Then on to sanding and finishing. 
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ez-duzit
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1--very attractive.