Robbie B
Well-known member
Well I was feeling proud about finishing my raggedy rabbit hutch tonight then I saw your miters. [emoji2359]
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
Well I was feeling proud about finishing my raggedy rabbit hutch tonight then I saw your miters. [emoji2359]
jar944
Well-known member
Show off the hutch.
Those lock miters are machine made and other than setting the machine up it really does all the work.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Machine made maybe, but designed and executed by a talented woodworker. Congrats.
Robbie B
Well-known member
(hangs head in shame)
Here it is. It took me forever to get it built. Since It got so hot out it was impossible to stand being in my building. When I started last night at 8:30 is was 99*. My next project is a chicken coop. Some how we’ve ended up starting a small farm during all this COVID ****. Still ain’t sure how that happened.
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jar944
Well-known member
(hangs head in shame)
Here it is. It took me forever to get it built. Since It got so hot out it was impossible to stand being in my building. When I started last night at 8:30 is was 99*. My next project is a chicken coop. Some how we’ve ended up starting a small farm during all this COVID ****. Still ain’t sure how that happened.
Looks good.
Working in high heat makes everything miserable.
Robbie B
Well-known member
Thanks. Yeah the heat makes it rough.. My job is maintance in a dye house. It’s 20* warmer in there on average than what it is outside. These last few weeks have been miserable and then coming home and trying to work on this too has been a hard sale to myself. [emoji23]
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Bought some Padauk yesterday. Hoping it matches my project nicely.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Padauk is wonderful wood. It is pretty hard but machines well. Be careful of the fine dust as it can be irritating to your skin and probably your lungs too. Good DC is key.
I wish it stayed the bright red orange when first cut but it mellows quickly to a dark maroon brown.
What kind of project do you have planned?
Coincidentally, I was just in the shop inspecting some stock of padauk that I plan to use for a dart board cabinet. Good luck.
Rick
I wish it stayed the bright red orange when first cut but it mellows quickly to a dark maroon brown.
What kind of project do you have planned?
Coincidentally, I was just in the shop inspecting some stock of padauk that I plan to use for a dart board cabinet. Good luck.
Rick
Farmerjonathan
Well-known member
Could you get the padauk to keep its color if you used a dye/stain that is UV resistant?
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
The UV resistant polys at least in my experience are a little more hype than substance. I’ve used it on padauk with little difference over standard polyurethanes.
Usually the color starts changing within a few days, Long before my projects are typically ready for final finish.
Usually the color starts changing within a few days, Long before my projects are typically ready for final finish.
rlitman
Well-known member
Perhaps it’s not a UV thing. Oxidation?
I know that the UV inhibiting urethanes protect the purple in purple heart.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
No, you are correct, it is oxidation that causes the immediate color changes. I was responding to the question about finishes preventing color change. Some of the UV products do protect woods like cherry from changing over time. But padauk will lose its orange in a couple of days.
Thanks for pointing that Rlitman, as it is an important distinction.
I made an entire bedroom set of padauk, seven pieces, twenty years ago. They are all a nice brown with hints of pinks and orange.
Thanks for pointing that Rlitman, as it is an important distinction.
I made an entire bedroom set of padauk, seven pieces, twenty years ago. They are all a nice brown with hints of pinks and orange.
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
A newbie to woodworking, got the inspiration to start with a headboard, thanks to GJ. Wife wants a white distressed look, hello google. Think she might agree to expanding our tool set. Used my dads 40 yr old Craftsman's a table saw and kreg pocket hole (first new tool). Alot to learn.
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Henricogolfer
Well-known member
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
I need some help with a typical F...Up. I was impatient waiting for hinge hardware to arrive and got ahead of myself. The result is a mistake that I would appreciate help with.
I am building a dart board cabinet and all was going well until I realized that I had glued the dart holders on opposite ends of the plain sawn cathedral grain ply of the doors. The plan was to have the flames obviously facing the same direction. Well, they aren't so I need to find a way to remove one of the dart holders and replace at the other end of the door (one side only).
Important considerations:
Doors are cope and stick 4/4 mahogany with 1/4" ply panel. They are stained but uncoated (no varnish, poly, oil yet). The dart holders are 1 1/2" by 7 3/4", glued with Original Titebond, no fasteners.
My question is, anybody have ways or tricks to loosen the Titebond to remove the dart holder? It is about 72 hours set. My concern is that the thin 1/4 ply will be damaged then I'm making two new doors. Damaging the dart holder, while not desirable, is not a deal killer.
Photos show the dart holder made with a Kreg step drill and jig, the doors as they are supposed to look (symmetric and bookmatched), and the doors as they sit-WRONG.
And no I can't live with the cathedral/flames pointing in different directions. Be gentle, I'm kicking myself with both feet.
Thanks.
Rick
I am building a dart board cabinet and all was going well until I realized that I had glued the dart holders on opposite ends of the plain sawn cathedral grain ply of the doors. The plan was to have the flames obviously facing the same direction. Well, they aren't so I need to find a way to remove one of the dart holders and replace at the other end of the door (one side only).
Important considerations:
Doors are cope and stick 4/4 mahogany with 1/4" ply panel. They are stained but uncoated (no varnish, poly, oil yet). The dart holders are 1 1/2" by 7 3/4", glued with Original Titebond, no fasteners.
My question is, anybody have ways or tricks to loosen the Titebond to remove the dart holder? It is about 72 hours set. My concern is that the thin 1/4 ply will be damaged then I'm making two new doors. Damaging the dart holder, while not desirable, is not a deal killer.
Photos show the dart holder made with a Kreg step drill and jig, the doors as they are supposed to look (symmetric and bookmatched), and the doors as they sit-WRONG.
And no I can't live with the cathedral/flames pointing in different directions. Be gentle, I'm kicking myself with both feet.
Thanks.
Rick
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
t--I'm sure you know what this is all about, but it is certainly not clear from all these twisted photos.
ALinCarolina
Well-known member
If I am understanding, the panels are opposite directions. Instead of moving the holders can you remove one panel and flip it. I assume the panels are floating and not glued. I think I would try cutting the lip of the dado on the inside of the door just down to the 1/4" panel. Then reinstall and add cleats to the back to hold it in attached with 23 ga pins. You could probably cut the wood with a Dremel, veneer saw, or some type of the Japanese pull saws.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Al, thanks for the reply. I thought about that but the cleat is a problem. Since this door will be open as much as it is closed, it is not your typical cabinet door where the inside appearance is not so important. It is a floating panel though.
What about this: As you suggest, cut the inside dado lip, reverse the panel, and reglue the 3/16" lip back in place. It might not be so noticeable, but I am trying to think of the best way to cut the lip. Maybe a knife on a straight edge? Eve the thinnest kerf will lose enough material to make it noticable. Thinking out loud.
What about this: As you suggest, cut the inside dado lip, reverse the panel, and reglue the 3/16" lip back in place. It might not be so noticeable, but I am trying to think of the best way to cut the lip. Maybe a knife on a straight edge? Eve the thinnest kerf will lose enough material to make it noticable. Thinking out loud.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
EZ,
Let me try to make it a little clearer. Sorry for the poor pics, but think of a bookmatched panel. What I have done by gluing on that dart holder, is to oriente one bookmatch door panel 180* from the other.
The door will function, but the grain pattern is no where near a match. that is what I need to fix.
I know you do a lot with boats and teak, maybe you have some tricks. But again I think you once said you work mostly with epoxy. There has to be a way around old style Titebond.
Let me try to make it a little clearer. Sorry for the poor pics, but think of a bookmatched panel. What I have done by gluing on that dart holder, is to oriente one bookmatch door panel 180* from the other.
The door will function, but the grain pattern is no where near a match. that is what I need to fix.
I know you do a lot with boats and teak, maybe you have some tricks. But again I think you once said you work mostly with epoxy. There has to be a way around old style Titebond.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Okay so my knee jerk when in trouble is to hit up the brain trust at GJ. Next thought was Google and I found this Finewoodworking thread on PVA glues:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/separating-titebond-glue
Two best sounding suggestions were heat gun and warm water or white vinegar soaks. Good thoughts there.
I will update when I try to get it apart.
Thanks folks.
Rick
https://www.finewoodworking.com/forum/separating-titebond-glue
Two best sounding suggestions were heat gun and warm water or white vinegar soaks. Good thoughts there.
I will update when I try to get it apart.
Thanks folks.
Rick
ez-duzit
Well-known member
t--the photos do not make it clear how/where the dart storage is attached. How about planing away the dart storage and removing the glue using a card scraper?
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
That is a good idea too. As mentioned, losing that 8" holder is no big deal. I could easily hand plane or even router most of it away. (The holder sits at the bottom of the inside of the door.)
Here is a picture of the dart holder on a cabinet from Etsy:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/784189353850689696/
or from Pinterest:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/184084703506775958/
It is not attached to a door or panel but you get the idea.
Here is a picture of the dart holder on a cabinet from Etsy:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/784189353850689696/
or from Pinterest:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/184084703506775958/
It is not attached to a door or panel but you get the idea.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
ALinCarolina
Well-known member
I bet you could make new cleats the size of the one removed plus the thickness of the kerf. Just glue like you say then with no brads.
I've made about every mistake in the book and remember having to replace a hole, gouge, or chipped edge with cutting a small piece in. As long as the grain is parallel and of course using scrap from the same board, it hides pretty well.
Cutting the holders off along with a 1/32 or so piece of the rail would work too. Good Luck. Be sure to let us see the outcome.
I've made about every mistake in the book and remember having to replace a hole, gouge, or chipped edge with cutting a small piece in. As long as the grain is parallel and of course using scrap from the same board, it hides pretty well.
Cutting the holders off along with a 1/32 or so piece of the rail would work too. Good Luck. Be sure to let us see the outcome.
txlonghorn1989
Well-known member
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- Feb 27, 2017
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- 2,786
Turbo, I don't know if you've ever checked out Sawmill Creek but they've got a Neanderthal Haven forum (hand tool woodworking) and their Power Tools forum where there is a lot of knowledgeable folks. You might consider checking those out. I was thinking the same thing EZ said. Cut that dart holder away down to as close as you can get it with a hand saw, recip saw or even a router like you suggested. Then use a hand/block plane to get it further down to the panel and then a scraper. Good luck!
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Thanks all. I took EZ's suggestion and ten mins with the old #5 Stanley brought it flat to the stiles. Next I will set the router up (tomorrow) and finish off to nearly flush, then a little more handwork.
I will say that I tried the heat gun, a wide chisel and a wide putty knife. The heat gun maybe softened the PVA a bit, but not convincingly. I stopped when I became worried about slamming through the 1/4 ply.
So thanks all. I think it will be fixed tomorrow and I will post either an update or the finished product.
I will say that I tried the heat gun, a wide chisel and a wide putty knife. The heat gun maybe softened the PVA a bit, but not convincingly. I stopped when I became worried about slamming through the 1/4 ply.
So thanks all. I think it will be fixed tomorrow and I will post either an update or the finished product.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Just be patient when you get to the glue line and let the card scraper sneak up on removing the last traces of glue without damaging the veneer.
HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
This is important. If there is any trace of the glue remaining, it will show up immediately when you apply your finish. I might even do a very light sanding with a very fine grit behind the scraper work.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Got it done this morning using all your tips. Thanks for saving my ****.
Pictures of the finished product probably next week.
Pictures of the finished product probably next week.
Working on a chest of drawers for my youngest. Made of cherry. So far so good. I just glued the two sides together yesterday. Will work on web frames next. All the rails received a curve on them. The back has a vertical stretcher running down the middle for extra support. 
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Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
What brand of clamp is being used in the second picture?
orangeblood
Well-known member
Working on a chest of drawers for my youngest. Made of cherry. So far so good. I just glued the two sides together yesterday. Will work on web frames next. All the rails received a curve on them. The back has a vertical stretcher running down the middle for extra support.
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Mr Krenov would be pleased
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
1--nice design. And I like the truck.
Thanks everyone.
It's actually another wood whisperer guild project. Faster for me to build/modify plans than make my own. Lol. Still learning designing of furniture as well.
Ez- thanks. It was my grandfather's '31 AA. Been getting it back into running shape. Luckily it was kept very well.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
It's actually another wood whisperer guild project. Faster for me to build/modify plans than make my own. Lol. Still learning designing of furniture as well.
Ez- thanks. It was my grandfather's '31 AA. Been getting it back into running shape. Luckily it was kept very well.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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txlonghorn1989
Well-known member
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How fantastic that was your grandfather's truck!!! It looks fantastic!
ALinCarolina
Well-known member
love that truck!
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
RR the chest of drawers is nice and the family AA is looking good!
