work benches... from scratch

[kbkna]

What would be the best way to protect either MDf or 1 1/2 press board if I were to use it as a top? Which would you use and why? I have both about 1 1/2 inches thick.

 

[mdbeck1]

After looking through almost every bench on this thread and others, I decided for a simple but functional bench. It's 5 1/2' long, 30" deep and 42" high. The top piece is oak plywood and I want to give it a clear coat to protect from spills. I also added a drawer that I bought at Lowes for $5 and the peg board was purchased at Lowes on clearance.

Now I need to figure out how to mount my vise since I have the 2x4 on the front edge and I'm not sure that drilling a bolt down through a small 2x4 is a good idea.

I've got a bench that looks a LOT like yours and had the vice connected through the top into the 2X4 stringers for 20 years with lag bolts. The third bolt just went through the 3/4" top.
Lately I have upgraded to use receiver hitches. See post 32 on this post http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86067&page=2.

 

[ujmchris]

What would be the best way to protect either MDf or 1 1/2 press board if I were to use it as a top? Which would you use and why? I have both about 1 1/2 inches thick.

I think either would make a decent base. I would cover it with 1/4 hardboard (if you wanna go cheep), and replace as necessary, or sheet metal if you have the $$. Kinda depends how your are going to be using it.

 

[CraigP]

So many ideas and examples, this is great stuff! I hope to design and build a bench for my new garage this spring or early summer using some of your ideas. How important is it for the bench top to overhang the legs/frame so you can clamp things down? Suggested overhang depths? If you don't have an overhang on your current bench, do you wish you had one?

 

[SpeedCoach]

What would be the best way to protect either MDf or 1 1/2 press board if I were to use it as a top? Which would you use and why? I have both about 1 1/2 inches thick.

I topped mine with some remnant laminate flooring i had....flush-routed the edges. actually has proven pretty durable.

 

[TN_GARAGE]

Also, any thoughts on how to best line up the two benches to make one surface when things call for it that way?

thanks!

How precise do you need to be when lining them up?

Simple idea is to just move them together and use a clamp on the legs to hold them snug.

A more polished method would be to make some wood joints.

So many ideas and examples, this is great stuff! I hope to design and build a bench for my new garage this spring or early summer using some of your ideas. How important is it for the bench top to overhang the legs/frame so you can clamp things down? Suggested overhang depths? If you don't have an overhang on your current bench, do you wish you had one?

It's really your call. If you ever need to clamp something down and you don't have a deep clamp, you'll probably ask yourself "wonder how much time it'll take to redo this bench so I can clamp something?"

I did put a small 1.5" overhang on mine (i'm definitely not a serious woodworker or tool-head) but I just know there'll come a time where I'm using the jigsaw and need to clamp something down. If I ever decide I don't like the overhang I can always cut it off or better yet, nail a furring strip under there for support.

Then again, they do make deep clamps for use on benches without overhangs.

 

[Johnnie]

I've got a bench that looks a LOT like yours and had the vice connected through the top into the 2X4 stringers for 20 years with lag bolts. The third bolt just went through the 3/4" top.
Lately I have upgraded to use receiver hitches. See post 32 on this post http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86067&page=2.

Thanks. I've seen the hitch idea but at this point I think I'm just going to mount it to my bench. I think I figured out a way to mount it just aft of the 2x4 directly into the 3/4" plywood. I'm definitely going to support it with a 2x4underneath with four 3" lag bolts. My main issue was having the jaws just forward of the front edge of the bench.

 

[Berserker]

I'd like to build a junk drawer under one of benches. One of the benches is 2xtops. Buy the rails? Make it, by nailing together plywood?

 

[srmofo]

It's really your call. If you ever need to clamp something down and you don't have a deep clamp, you'll probably ask yourself "wonder how much time it'll take to redo this bench so I can clamp something?"

I did put a small 1.5" overhang on mine (i'm definitely not a serious woodworker or tool-head) but I just know there'll come a time where I'm using the jigsaw and need to clamp something down. If I ever decide I don't like the overhang I can always cut it off or better yet, nail a furring strip under there for support.

Then again, they do make deep clamps for use on benches without overhangs.

If you dont have an overhang or clamps and need one later one, you can always just make a larger top and bolt it right onto the bench and shorten the legs a bit if it becomes too tall. Either way you can always fix it

 

[Jayincali]

Just finished building my work bench this weekend. Still need to build a shelf at each end, skin the sides and back with 1/4" plywood, then top with 1/4" hard board. Bench is 32" deep by 10' long. There wil be a vice at the far end as soon as I find one. All the joints and screw holes are already filled with wood filler. Next step will be prime, then paint.

<a href="http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/?action=view&current=Bench1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/Bench1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/?action=view&current=Bench.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/Bench.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[muddy8jeep8]

Just finished building my work bench this weekend. Still need to build a shelf at each end, skin the sides and back with 1/4" plywood, then top with 1/4" hard board. Bench is 32" deep by 10' long. There wil be a vice at the far end as soon as I find one. All the joints and screw holes are already filled with wood filler. Next step will be prime, then paint.

<a href="http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/?action=view&current=Bench1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b58/jayinkali/Bench1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

How do you like that makita drill? Im about to pull the trigger on a Makita but im torn between the compact white drill you have or full size green drill.

 

[Jayincali]

How do you like that makita drill? Im about to pull the trigger on a Makita but im torn between the compact white drill you have or full size green drill.

I love it, light weight, plenty of power, charges the batteries dead to full in 15 minutes, plus I believe the white drill is smaller, so makes it nice to get into tight spots. If I were you I would get the drill/impact driver combo pack, the impact driver is awesome. If you want a longer battery charge, you can upgrade to the larger green drill batt. pack.

 

[CraigP]

Thinking about my future workbench, I'm not sure whether it should be fastened to the wall or not. When built it will be roughly 5-6' wide and 20" deep, that's about all the room I can spare. It will not be on casters as I don't want to deal with the wobbles. But if I fasten it to the wall, I can never shuffle it around if I need space for large projects. Do you guys build your benches onto the wall, do you just attach it to a few studs with some lag bolts, or do you leave it floating should you need to move it later?

 

[mdbeck1]

Thinking about my future workbench, I'm not sure whether it should be fastened to the wall or not. When built it will be roughly 5-6' wide and 20" deep, that's about all the room I can spare. It will not be on casters as I don't want to deal with the wobbles. But if I fasten it to the wall, I can never shuffle it around if I need space for large projects. Do you guys build your benches onto the wall, do you just attach it to a few studs with some lag bolts, or do you leave it floating should you need to move it later?

Mine is free standing and does not have casters. I have found that I can slide my HF scissor cart under it and lift it up to move it. IIRC the size is 30"X60"

Attached is a pick... Sorry I don't have one with the scissor cart under it.

 

[TireTracks]

I made mine out of2x4's and a sheet of Plywood.

Make 2 2x8ft boxes out of 2x4's, and have 4 whole 2x4's for legs. then you have a bench thats fairly sturdy, cheap and easy to make, and has a big shelf ontop for parts storage. I mounted a 3ft florecent light to the underside of the shelf, and put a Outlet with an extencion cord on one of the legs for the battery charger and lamp. and a peg board on the wall behind it to hang some tools on.

you could also make a 3rd shelf that goes under the bench for even more storage. Or you could make 2 2x8ft benches.

very space saveing and cheap. I spent less than $20 on the parts at lowes.

 

[sed6]

Here's mine...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/59565689@N06/5452888304/" "><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5452888304_c037a0935c.jpg" width="413" height="500" alt="" /></a>

It's about 10 feet long, two layers of 3/4" MDF with a top later of 1/4" Masonite, banded with clear pine. Same for the roll around carts which are the same height as my tablesaw and serve double duty as infeed/outfeed tables.

 

[colt340]

I built this a couple of years back. I used 2x4's and 4x4's and
covered the top with stainless steel.
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo288/colt340/colt/IMG_20101222_150233.jpg

 

[Toolmaann]

Birch plywood cases, pine face frames, homemade doors of pine and 1/4" birch ply insets. Built my table in 4 pieces (2 cases, 1 center drawer section, and my maple top). Top is made up of 4 locker room benches I re-purposed from a remodel done at the school I worked at. 1 3/4" thick, 9' long, 29 1/2" deep. Trim around the bottom of the cases is re-purposed gym floor wood from the same remodel. Table can be broken down for easy moving (relatively, lol). Just gave the top a couple new coats of finish today.

 

[LennyTheLizard]

Here's mine...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/59565689@N06/5452888304/" "><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5452888304_c037a0935c.jpg" width="413" height="500" alt="" /></a>

It's about 10 feet long, two layers of 3/4" MDF with a top later of 1/4" Masonite, banded with clear pine. Same for the roll around carts which are the same height as my tablesaw and serve double duty as infeed/outfeed tables.

I really like your set-up here. Any more pics or details on how the roll around carts are made?

 

[bmwohio]

Pretty simple with the space that I have. 3/4 inch plywood with some edging. I used reinforced L brackets to mount to the wall and reinforced with 2x4's and shims for a tight fit. I then applied 3 coats of polyurethane. Nothing too crazy, but I thought I would share.

 

[Call me the Breeze]

This is my 40" x 96" work bench. I am gonna be modifying it shortly to add a couple of drawers and a repaint. I put locking casters on it, so I could move it around the shop when working on different things. It works great when I am working on 4 x 8 signs. I had an old toolbox that I built into it. The back side has an open shelf with way too much junk to be gone through.

View media item 5222
View media item 5192
My metal work bench has the vise on it along with a chop saw, grinder, and buffer.
Before photos:

View media item 5730View media item 5731
After photos:

View media item 5734
View media item 5735
View media item 5736

 

[mit]

I followed these instructions and built a moveable bench.

http://www.robertsdonovan.com/?p=543

Topped it off with an IKEA laminated counter top.

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90117449

 

[28HopUp]

After several months of cleaning, pitching, organizing, and building, I am now at a point where I can contribute to this thread and show you some pictures of the bench I just built in my basement workshop. Before I get to the bench itself, here is the entrance to my basement workshop, through the Scooby-Doo door I built -

View media item 7857View media item 7858

The construction design for the workbench itself was inspired by other benches I saw here in this thread -

View media item 7859

The uprights are mated 2x4's, with one running the entire vertical and the other being stacked along with the horizontals for the shelves -

View media item 7861

I wanted to maximize the storage area underneath, so I put the bottom shelf on the floor. Being in a (dry) basement, I probably should have raised the bottom shelf a few inches off the ground in case there ever is a moisture problem.

I built in drop-downs to keep the saws at the right height -

View media item 7862View media item 7860

In the design, I borrowed Jack Olsen's soffit idea for the sliding doors, and ripped tracks into the 2x4's for the Masonite doors. I also benefited from his advice and made the top tracks deeper so I could lift the doors into the top first and then drop the bottom edges into place.

The surface top is a hair or two higher than 40", which I needed to do to be able to roll the old Craftsman table saw under the bench. The bench is 32" deep over the saw, and the long side is 24" deep. I'm 6'1", and I read through other posts here to increase my comfort level about having a bench that high. I gotta say I am 100% thrilled with the height. The work surface consists of a single layer of 3/4" plywood (with extra 2x4" crossmembers underneath) with 1/4" Masonite screwed on top. The edges are higher grade wood (maple, I think). In this shot you can also see the 1/4" steel insert I put into the corner of the top. That came from my Dad's old workbench, in case I need to get aggressive with something. The small rounded anvil is removable too.

View media item 7864

Next up will be a bigger vise for the bench (not pictured) in the opposite corner, and pegboard over the long side of the pictured bench next to the poster from the 2005 Bonneville Speed Week.

For those who are interested, I freehanded the racer on the wall using a picture penned by Gus Maanum for inspiration. Here's an in-progress shot -

View media item 5812

I sketched it in pencil, then painted the cream on the walls (which have blue tone in the pictures here, but are actually a very pale green). Then I painted the black over the pencil.

 

[Call me the Breeze]

Nice mural 28 Hop up!

 

[Jack Olsen]

View media item 7859
And that's a nice bench!

 

[rmousir]

I like that a lot. I am going to borrow some ideas when I get mine done.

 

[JohnJL]

I made this from stratch yesterday. As soon as I can find a steel plate for the top it will be done.

I repurposed the old kitchen cabinets, put some TLC into them, painted them and mounted them throughout the new garage work area. I had 2 remaining base cabinets but was running out of room of other things I have planned to install. I also knew I wanted a large rolling table big enough to support a gokart or other large welding project. So i made this rolling cart with 2 base cabinets, two 3/4 ply base, 2 3/4 ply top. 5" 700# locking, swiveling casters.

I'm pretty happy with the next bit...I wanted the cart to double as a heavy-duty workbench and I didnt want any wobble/movement to it. So I left a 3" overhang on the back of the table. Then I traced that overhand against the wall. I mounted a 4x4 1mm above that line. Then I slid the table back against the wall and drilled 2 3/4" holes through the top and into the 4x4. Then I removed the table again and drilled out the holes in the 4x4 to 1". Then I inserted 3 1"OD, 3/4" ID steel bushings into the holes in teh 4x4, glued tehm, tapped them and inserted screws through the wood into a pilot hole in the side of each bushing.

Now I can slide the table up against the wall and insert 2 steel pins that lock the table to the wall. It is super-solid, no movement at all. When I want to roll it around I simply remove the 2 pins. All 4 wheels are swivel-lockers so even though it is a large table, it is quite maneuverable.

I laid out the cabinets so that a Lincoln 180 fits in the cart, is easy to reach and right next to the 240v outlet.

I'm pretty happy with it, maybe it will give some ideas or there are some other ideas to improve it...paint still in progress and hopefully a 6mm steel top soon...\

 

[R7237]

EAA Workbench
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm

 

[steel 35]

Here are two of my favorites; I have many but havent seen them in some time Thanks for sharing I spent way too much time looking through this thread last night!
First one is stainless I see lots of guys using it, but I actually made a lot of money scrapping what I didn't use.
Second one works great on almost normal cars too bad I don't have one anymore.

 

[Northern Ninja]

Here's a couple pics of mine. Turned out ok for a first attempt. The vise was a freebie, believe it or not.

 

[peelman]

To all the guys who are using hardboard layered on top of 3/4" plywood or OSB, how are you securing the layers? I'm planing on doing 3/4" OSB (maybe double thick), topped with 1/4" hardboard, but i'm torn on how to secure the layers.

Build the top separately, then Kreg / pocket screw it to the frame? Add it to the bench in layers, securing down into the cross pieces as you go? Anybody recommend edging the whole bench using 1x pine (i've seen a few people do this, curious what the hoard thinks)? How about overhang, I'm thinking 6" overhang on the front and sides, flush with the back?

I'm leaning towards screwing the 3/4" down from the top, then layering on the hardboard using glue and possibly some smaller-d sinker nails or something. I worry that if i go with glue it'll make replacing the hardboard later a painful affair, but relying on only nails might make a mess of things too. Anybody got different approaches? I've noticed a few different methods, but i don't recall it being actively discussed.

 

[28HopUp]

Thanks for the kind words gentlemen!

To all the guys who are using hardboard layered on top of 3/4" plywood or OSB, how are you securing the layers? I'm planing on doing 3/4" OSB (maybe double thick), topped with 1/4" hardboard, but i'm torn on how to secure the layers.

Build the top separately, then Kreg / pocket screw it to the frame? Add it to the bench in layers, securing down into the cross pieces as you go? Anybody recommend edging the whole bench using 1x pine (i've seen a few people do this, curious what the hoard thinks)? How about overhang, I'm thinking 6" overhang on the front and sides, flush with the back?

I'm leaning towards screwing the 3/4" down from the top, then layering on the hardboard using glue and possibly some smaller-d sinker nails or something. I worry that if i go with glue it'll make replacing the hardboard later a painful affair, but relying on only nails might make a mess of things too. Anybody got different approaches? I've noticed a few different methods, but i don't recall it being actively discussed.

I built the top in layers. I didn't want to make the bench too high (it's 40.5" high), yet the open area had to be high enough to clear the table saw. So I only used one layer of 3/4" plywood. So the base has extra 2x4" cross members for added support.

For the hardboard, I chose not to glue it down so I could easily replace it later with a fresh piece. So I screwed it down with countersunk holes and flat-top screws.

View media item 7919

 

[Wingnut65]

View media item 7860In the design, I borrowed Jack Olsen's soffit idea for the sliding doors, and ripped tracks into the 2x4's for the Masonite doors. I also benefited from his advice and made the top tracks deeper so I could lift the doors into the top first and then drop the bottom edges into place.

Beautiful workbench, HopUp, Have you seen any warpage with the masonite doors?

I built the Family Handyman wall cabinets and used 1/8" plywood (door skin) and even fully painted, the doors are warping. I love your workbench and those doors may just solve my problem.

 

[peelman]

I built the top in layers. I didn't want to make the bench too high (it's 40.5" high), yet the open area had to be high enough to clear the table saw. So I only used one layer of 3/4" plywood. So the base has extra 2x4" cross members for added support.

For the hardboard, I chose not to glue it down so I could easily replace it later with a fresh piece. So I screwed it down with countersunk holes and flat-top screws.

with only 1/4" of material there isn't much room for error on countersinking

 

[JohnJL]

To all the guys who are using hardboard layered on top of 3/4" plywood or OSB, how are you securing the layers? I'm planing on doing 3/4" OSB (maybe double thick), topped with 1/4" hardboard, but i'm torn on how to secure the layers.

A nice feature to using hardboard is it can be a cheap 'sacrificial' top. If you dont glue it then you can easily remove and replace when its time to spruce it up again.

I attached mine by simply laying it on top of the bench then using 1/8" painted iron bar across each seam and 1 1/2" angle iron covering the front edges.

Can post a closer pic later...

 

[Bunk]

To all the guys who are using hardboard layered on top of 3/4" plywood or OSB, how are you securing the layers? I'm planing on doing 3/4" OSB (maybe double thick), topped with 1/4" hardboard, but i'm torn on how to secure the layers.

I'm leaning towards screwing the 3/4" down from the top, then layering on the hardboard using glue and possibly some smaller-d sinker nails or something. I worry that if i go with glue it'll make replacing the hardboard later a painful affair, but relying on only nails might make a mess of things too. Anybody got different approaches? I've noticed a few different methods, but i don't recall it being actively discussed.

I would bypass the glue for the hardboard layer and screw that down. If you glue it- its NOT coming off. Ever.

Afterward, apply several coats of Johnsons paste wax to the hardboard. It will give it a nice sheen and keep stuff from soaking in. The first couple coats will soak in and look like nothing happened, but keep adding a couple more and it will look really nice, as well as very functional, and cheap, and easy.

 

[milner351]

Does Hardboard = Malamine or Masonite?

Has anyone used concrete board or tile backer board for a fire proof top section?

I suppose firebrick is the safest option for that.

 

[Bunk]

To me...hardboard = masonite.

 

[Zick]

Does Hardboard = Malamine or Masonite?

Has anyone used concrete board or tile backer board for a fire proof top section?

I suppose firebrick is the safest option for that.

Hardboard = Masonite

Melamine is the typically the white covered partical board shelving.

The only disavantage to concrete tops are that they are brittle and can't take a beating.

 

[peelman]

Hardboard = Masonite

Melamine is the typically the white covered partical board shelving.

The only disavantage to concrete tops are that they are brittle and can't take a beating.

You can get melamine coated particle board shelving, but you can also buy sheets of melamine (aka: showerboard), which is similar to hardboard in feel, weight, etc., but faced with the smooth, easy to clean white face of melamine.

Makes a _GREAT_ cheap whiteboard, at about $12 for a 4x8 sheet (YMMV). I trimmed a full sheet with a few pieces of oak when I moved into my current office. Has been _awesome_ to have a whiteboard that's practically the entire wall.

The Menards, Lowes, and Home Depots around here all carry it, look around in the paneling aisle the next time you're there if you're in the market for a whiteboard.

A nice feature to using hardboard is it can be a cheap 'sacrificial' top. If you dont glue it then you can easily remove and replace when its time to spruce it up again.

I attached mine by simply laying it on top of the bench then using 1/8" painted iron bar across each seam and 1 1/2" angle iron covering the front edges.

Can post a closer pic later...

Well, now you have me thinking; if i flush trim/edge the benchtop in pine or something, the melamine would be sitting in essentially a box, so it couldn't move around too much. At that point a few small diameter nails around the perimeter and in the middle, countersinking as necessary, would keep it from flying up at inopportune times, and make it fairly easy to replace (which was the goal, and why i didn't think glue would work out that well).

If i thought i wouldn't rip it off every time i drug something off the bench, i'd just use some aluminum angle along the side edges to create a channel then put a few nails in non-important places to act as retainers...

hell, honestly I could probably edge it with strips of hardboard and get the same effect with less bulk...though those would be even easier to rip off than the aluminum...