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signcrafter

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May 9, 2012
Messages
12,534
You pretty much confirmed what I see all too often Scott. I too shot past on an early build, but that experience was just added to my portfolio of knowledge.

Funny you mentioned the solid handle on the grunt tool vs. the kind that accept a breaker bar. I also have one of those that accept either a 1/2" or 3/4" anvil, but seldom use it as it is too cumbersome to hold everything whereas the solid one that takes a round tube with a somewhat close fit is so much more predictable and easier to use. On Jeeps and other vehicles where there is a bit more available real estate under the vehicle, I usually will lock it against a suspension component or crossmember, but under these Mustang's the exhaust runs so close parallel the driveshaft, there just isn't the space to do that so one has to hold both the grunt tool as well as the ratchet or breaker bar to compress the crush sleeve. You are right, the initial crush is the hardest, once that is accomplished, it is requires slightly less effort and is more predictable. I have seen some people actually put the crush sleeve in a press and perform that initial crush before installing it in the rear end, but I haven't had the need to do that as I can usually accomplish what I need to in the vehicle.

I also see a LOT of people just hammering away using their high torque impact guns to crush the sleeve, but I can't bring myself to do that. Maybe they've gotten away with it a time or even multiple times, but I've never been a fan of shocking bearings like that. Many, many years ago a coworker of mine rattled on a gear to an output shaft of a gearbox and shortly afterwards that bearing had an early failure. Upon investigating and questioning my boss and mentor, he contacted our local bearing supply house who brought in a representative whom I learned a lot about bearing installation and how to properly handle and install bearings. That rep spent quite a bit of time with me and my coworkers going over various installation processes and the pros and cons to them. THAT is when I not only quite driving bearings on with a hammer and driver and insisted on using a hydraulic press, but that is also when I purchased my bearing heater as that short training opportunity I had made that big of an impact on me.
We used to have a toaster oven in the travel trailer, we didn't use it in the house anymore and it was nice because we could make toast for breakfast and also use it for a lot of other things while camping. Last time we went camping the wife asked where the toaster oven was, don't think she was impressed when I said it was in the shop. 😂

We now have an air fryer in the travel trailer.
 
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zmotorsports

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We used to have a toaster oven in the travel trailer, we didn't use it in the house anymore and it was nice because we could make toast for breakfast and also use it for a lot of other things while camping. Last time we went camping the wife asked where the toaster oven was, don't think she was impressed when I said it was in the shop. 😂

We now have an air fryer in the travel trailer.

Heat is heat Scott, doesn't really matter the source, although your wife may argue that point. :ROFLMAO:
 

WoodsTruck

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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
1,028
Quick comment and a question. Your wait list for axle work speaks for itself.

On the photo struggle to catch the needle at the right time, I would normally take a video then screen shot a still photo at the exact time I want to capture.
Question: Are you ever concerned about reusing driveline retention bolts? The front driveline fell out of my 1-year old F150 one night in the dark. Let me tell you, it gets noisy when it's loose. Ford was quite adamant that I should go back with new bolts so I bought new bolts but requested the old ones for our fleet mechanic since he ends up bolting those drivelines back in quite often and sometimes the originals aren't anywhere to be found.
 
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zmotorsports

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Quick comment and a question. Your wait list for axle work speaks for itself.

On the photo struggle to catch the needle at the right time, I would normally take a video then screen shot a still photo at the exact time I want to capture.
Question: Are you ever concerned about reusing driveline retention bolts? The front driveline fell out of my 1-year old F150 one night in the dark. Let me tell you, it gets noisy when it's loose. Ford was quite adamant that I should go back with new bolts so I bought new bolts but requested the old ones for our fleet mechanic since he ends up bolting those drivelines back in quite often and sometimes the originals aren't anywhere to be found.


Thank you. I never even thought about recording a video then capturing a still image from it. Great suggestion. I've said it before then I'm a mechanic not a videographer or photographer. :bounce:

As for replacing driveshaft bolts, no I have not. If bolts are not specified as TTY (Torque To Yield) then I don't replace them unless there is something wrong with them. TTY bolts are a different story.

If a person replaced every bolt on a vehicle that the manufacturer "recommended" because the removed a component that would get awfully expensive awfully quick and is quite unnecessary.
 

bugnut

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Jul 14, 2012
Messages
4,013
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Central Ohio
Mike once again thanks for the detailed tutorial and discussion, you teach well and many of us are students.

As for the camera, I often, like you work alone. I frequently need to observer something and cannot from where I am working. Yesterday, a vw engine carb throttle linkage was not moving. To see if it was the foot pedal cable or the carb internals I needed to observe the roller under the foot pedal while hand moving the linkage. To do this I drug out a tripod and flashlight, used them to illuminate the footwell and videoed the movement while I was at the engine manipulating the cable and linkage. This provides a set of eyes where I can't be. Works for me and I use it more frequently than originally thought. Just thinking of the camera holding and wrenching in the same spot.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike once again thanks for the detailed tutorial and discussion, you teach well and many of us are students.

As for the camera, I often, like you work alone. I frequently need to observer something and cannot from where I am working. Yesterday, a vw engine carb throttle linkage was not moving. To see if it was the foot pedal cable or the carb internals I needed to observe the roller under the foot pedal while hand moving the linkage. To do this I drug out a tripod and flashlight, used them to illuminate the footwell and videoed the movement while I was at the engine manipulating the cable and linkage. This provides a set of eyes where I can't be. Works for me and I use it more frequently than originally thought. Just thinking of the camera holding and wrenching in the same spot.

Joel, I've used my phone for similar tasks, reaching back into a tight spot where my head doesn't fit while videoing the issue, reaching my hand around components to take a picture to see where a fastener is, etc. I use my phone as a tool rather than a toy that many do and for that it works great. Just never thought about snipping a still image from a video as @WoodsTruck suggested. Now I need to figure out how to do that, which can't be that difficult. :bounce:
 
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zmotorsports

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I finished up the Shelby GT500KR last night and took her for a test drive then text the owner that it was ready to arrange pickup.

kr114.jpg

shopnight.jpg

After returning from the test drive and giving her a good once over, I commenced cleaning tools and shop to prepare for the next job that just arrived via UPS over the weekend.

Thanks for following along everyone and hope it was entertaining, and maybe even informative. :3gears:
 
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zmotorsports

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You needed the cover off the Camaro for your last couple pics.
A “pony car” garage!

Funny you mentioned that. As I was closing up the shop after cleaning and putting tools away and sweeping up the floor, I turned to look at both cars sitting there and thought the same thing, the cover should have been off the Camaro. But then the wife walked in, and I didn't want to be bothered removing the cover.

The wife had called earlier as she was leaving work and on her way home, I informed her that I just got home from a road test and she asked how the car ran and performed. I told her it was a fun car to drive and it definitely had some power. She asked if I liked it more than our Camaro and I told her it is more powerful, but I prefer the ride and handling of our Fifth Gen Camaro much more. I told her the Shelby seemed more "bruteful" if that makes sense. She informed me that wasn't a word. :unsure: She was giving me a hard time that if I wanted to turn the Camaro over to her as "her car", maybe I could build something else. I informed her as appealing as that sounds, I just don't have the time to tackle a full build right now, that's what retirement will be for, plus I didn't want to spend the money at this point in our life. Our goal right now is to get the mortgage paid off and retire.

She asked me if I enjoyed working on these muscle cars more so than Jeeps and I told her I enjoy both, they're just different and the owners' personalities, and to some extent, expectations are different. I would say the muscle cars probably more so as it is more liken to when I was building street rods and race cars, the Jeeps seem to be more "flogged" on by their owners and less care or attention to detail that the owners are willing to pay for. She replied that if I continue to work on these types of cars, I may have to name the shop something like Gasoline Alley or Performance Auto Works or something more "catchy". I liked where her head was at. ;)

She did sit in the car and "tried it on" though. I jokingly told her it was equipped with a Millennial anti-theft device and then she saw the manual shifter and that pesky third pedal. :bounce:


Glad you got it all fixed up Mike. Your posts are always informative and bring out great discussions that I learn a lot from. Looking forward to the next project.

Thanks Scott, I appreciate and like the conversations as well. That way we can all learn something, myself included.
 

CGarage

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Nov 23, 2018
Messages
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Location
United States/Switzerland
I like the name, ZMotorsports, because you put your family name into it.

If I were to advise you, strictly from a business perspective, you are missing a golden opportunity.

With, dare I say it, ~ 90% of the shops doing sub-par work that ends up being a liability for the vehicle owners, you should dedicate your shop to people who love their vehicles- and intend to keep them.

While not a challenge for you, doing basic, professional oil changes for customers who understand your shop, and capabilities (you need to show the customers the tools and explain the decades of investment you have spent simply FINDING and MAKING tooling), you will be able to pay off the balance of the mortgage quickly and this is a great opportunity now that you are well setup for before electrification and hybridization rears its head and becomes the norm.

No reason to waste time trying to qualify yourself to owners like the previous Shelby who wanted to get one over on you on price. Focus on the basics and provide it for a handpicked clientele who love their vehicles and will pay for not having to deal with the liability from the unprofessional, unequipped, so-called technicians.
 
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zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,495
Location
Northern Utah
Mike, I will never change out a set of differential gears, build a paint shaker with 3 decimal place tolerances, or have the heads off a diesel pusher RV, but I really enjoy your detailed posts showing how it's done.
Keep up the good work, so some of us can live vicariously through your posts. (y)

Thank you Scott. While I do work on a broad range of items, I am always intrigued by what other members are working on. Some of those things I will never get the opportunity to work on and some of them I have no interest in working on, but it is still enjoyable to follow along and learn.



I like the name, ZMotorsports, because you put your family name into it.

If I were to advise you, strictly from a business perspective, you are missing a golden opportunity.

With, dare I say it, ~ 90% of the shops doing sub-par work that ends up being a liability for the vehicle owners, you should dedicate your shop to people who love their vehicles- and intend to keep them.

While not a challenge for you, doing basic, professional oil changes for customers who understand your shop, and capabilities (you need to show the customers the tools and explain the decades of investment you have spent simply FINDING and MAKING tooling), you will be able to pay off the balance of the mortgage quickly and this is a great opportunity now that you are well setup for before electrification and hybridization rears its head and becomes the norm.

No reason to waste time trying to qualify yourself to owners like the previous Shelby who wanted to get one over on you on price. Focus on the basics and provide it for a handpicked clientele who love their vehicles and will pay for not having to deal with the liability from the unprofessional, unequipped, so-called technicians.

Thank you, I appreciate the comments. I'm not really looking for a name per se for my shop, I was just impressed where my wife's head was at during our conversation last night.

That being said, the wife and I have had multiple conversations over the past several weeks in particular about limiting or more thoroughly scrutinizing those people whom I choose to do work for. There are two things I absolutely do NOT want to do again. First, I don't want to be so busy working on paying jobs that I lose focus or start neglecting our own assets and secondly, I do NOT want to get so busy that I need to apply for and obtain another business license. Been there done that and then it seems like the fun ends up fleeing the shop. I want not only to have fun in my shop but continue to learn and grow my skillset all while being able to provide a service to a handful of select clients who actually love their cars. I am beginning to lose the enjoyment of working on beat to **** daily drivers for people who continually neglect and flog on their assets, then come back weeks later with more **** that needs attention.
 
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zmotorsports

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“Those who continually neglect and flog on their assets” - is that primarily the Jeep crowd or the “performance crowd”?

When a large part of crawler culture refer to their off-road vehicles as "my junk" and who subscribe to the "Chicks dig body rash" mentality I'll guess you can figure it out. I blame the old "Pirates of the Rubicon" forum, or "PoOR" as I call it, for fostering that attitude.

@CGarage I would both to some degree. I wouldn't necessarily point the finger at one motorsports arena over the other. It comes down to the personalities of those in either industry.

That being said, as Thom points out, when someone refers to their assets or toys as "junk", that is a good indication as to how that individual treats their assets. I have seen similar in the racing or "performance" crowd as well, but to a lesser degree which I can only assume is due to the nature of the environment in which they operate their vehicles.

I have a couple of coworkers that fit Thom's description to a tee. They take their Jeeps out for EJS, beat the living **** out of them and then spend the next four or five months repairing what they broke just so they can do the same thing at Trail Hero in the fall. THOSE are the people in which I do not want to shadow my doorstep.

On the other hand, I have clients whom I have worked on either their performance cars or Jeeps that truly do take care of them and when something does happen it is not through abuse, but mere use of the vehicle. I would say I actually fall into this category. I have had a few failures of my own but I can attest that I surely don't flog on my stuff. I use them, but I don't beat on them and I still have an occasional failure point that needs to be addressed. These are the people I actually like doing work for, those that actually use them but don't beat on them.

One of the biggest compliments I seem to get lately is when people ask me if I actually take my Jeep off-road. That tells me that although it's getting some age and miles on it, it doesn't show abuse.
 
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zmotorsports

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Had a little yardwork to get done last night as we were supposed to get rain, which we did overnight.

The nice thing about my trees is usually once the first leaf falls, they are all on the ground within about two weeks. With the trees pretty bare and clouds thickening I decided to clean up the leaves from my trees last night. I will still have to do this all over again once my neighbor's trees shed their leaves, but at least mine would be done before the rain hit. Last night lying in bed listening to it rain, I just thought how nice it was not to worry about the leaves getting packed into the grass. :bounce:
leaves1.jpg

leaves2.jpg

leaves3.jpg

leaves4.jpg

leaves5.jpg

Losing DST *****. I HATE how early it gets dark now. Just as I was finishing up the leaves, I walked back to get the rake and noticed how pretty the mountains looked as the sun was setting.
leaves6.jpg

Then within minutes it was dark.
leaves7.jpg

One small tool that I have thought about making for a while now was a gauge tool to reach into fill holes in rear ends and transmissions to check fluid levels. Many times when a vehicle comes in the fluid isn't coming out of the threaded fill hole, so I will grab a zip-tie, bend it to 90-degrees and insert it to measure how far below the threads the fluid level is, then toss the zip-tie. For the past little while I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated measuring tool that would be easier to read than a plastic zip-tie.

Last night I grabbed a small piece of 3/16" cold rolled and knurled the end by about a half inch.
fluidtool1.jpg

Then stuck it in between some soft jaws to avoid flattening the knurls and bent it to 90-degrees and put a little heat shrink on the end.
fluidtool2.jpg

There, that should work as a nice fluid level gauge that should be easier to read, then clean and stick back in the toolbox for the next time.
fluidtool3.jpg



Thanks for looking.
 

aka Larry

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Joined
May 2, 2012
Messages
8,103
Location
Eastern, NC
That being said, as Thom points out, when someone refers to their assets or toys as "junk", that is a good indication as to how that individual treats their assets. I have seen similar in the racing or "performance" crowd as well, but to a lesser degree which I can only assume is due to the nature of the environment in which they operate their vehicles.

I race a "$500 car" (yeah, right) or at least that's the starting premise in he 24HOL series.

My car is a 1993 Acura Integra and though we surely 'beat on it' as in we were at WOT 80% of the time, I can promise you it's well maintained. In endurance racing you don't have to be the fastest, but you do have to last and having a well maintained car is a big part of it.

We change the oil and filter before every race, even though the oil would have less than 900 miles on it. We flush the brake fluid before every race. We change the transmission fluid every other race. I'm sure more than half the field doesn't do this as it's considered a 'waste' by many in a race that it cost more to enter than the top purse. However, we like to do as well as we can, and maintaining the car in my shop is preferable over working on it during the race.
 
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ntsqd

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Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
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Location
Lower left coast
There's a saying in desert racing that I've never heard said at the drags or at the road races even though I'm sure that it applies in those places too.
"The race is won in the shop, and lost by the driver."
Of course, it IS the prep guy(s) saying that.

I like that tool!

How I feel about the loss of DST:
i-wMpkKBb-M.jpg
 

rd65

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Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,852
Location
Granite Falls, WA
@CGarage I would both to some degree. I wouldn't necessarily point the finger at one motorsports arena over the other. It comes down to the personalities of those in either industry.

That being said, as Thom points out, when someone refers to their assets or toys as "junk", that is a good indication as to how that individual treats their assets. I have seen similar in the racing or "performance" crowd as well, but to a lesser degree which I can only assume is due to the nature of the environment in which they operate their vehicles.

I have a couple of coworkers that fit Thom's description to a tee. They take their Jeeps out for EJS, beat the living **** out of them and then spend the next four or five months repairing what they broke just so they can do the same thing at Trail Hero in the fall. THOSE are the people in which I do not want to shadow my doorstep.

On the other hand, I have clients whom I have worked on either their performance cars or Jeeps that truly do take care of them and when something does happen it is not through abuse, but mere use of the vehicle. I would say I actually fall into this category. I have had a few failures of my own but I can attest that I surely don't flog on my stuff. I use them, but I don't beat on them and I still have an occasional failure point that needs to be addressed. These are the people I actually like doing work for, those that actually use them but don't beat on them.

One of the biggest compliments I seem to get lately is when people ask me if I actually take my Jeep off-road. That tells me that although it's getting some age and miles on it, it doesn't show abuse.
As I read this, my daughter's boyfriend pops into my mind. One of those guys who cant fix anything, but continues to buy things that need fixing and has zero patience. This is her 96 4Runner that they just had to put 35s on. It has been parked next to my shop for going on two years now. They/he destroyed it. Needs clutch, rear main seal, exhaust work, sunroof leaks so headliner is hanging. It is somewhere low on my list of things to do. I am thinking of telling her I will only do the work if she agrees to sell it. They have two kids now and they dont have $$ to spend on this kind of "hobby".
 

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zmotorsports

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As I read this, my daughter's boyfriend pops into my mind. One of those guys who cant fix anything, but continues to buy things that need fixing and has zero patience. This is her 96 4Runner that they just had to put 35s on. It has been parked next to my shop for going on two years now. They/he destroyed it. Needs clutch, rear main seal, exhaust work, sunroof leaks so headliner is hanging. It is somewhere low on my list of things to do. I am thinking of telling her I will only do the work if she agrees to sell it. They have two kids now and they dont have $$ to spend on this kind of "hobby".

That's too bad. Those can be a nice vehicle. I hate seeing vehicles purchased with grand plans, only to have the buyer not be realistic with their skills or funds and then the vehicle ends up sitting and deteriorating until they're worth nothing.
 

signcrafter

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Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
12,534
Had a little yardwork to get done last night as we were supposed to get rain, which we did overnight.

The nice thing about my trees is usually once the first leaf falls, they are all on the ground within about two weeks. With the trees pretty bare and clouds thickening I decided to clean up the leaves from my trees last night. I will still have to do this all over again once my neighbor's trees shed their leaves, but at least mine would be done before the rain hit. Last night lying in bed listening to it rain, I just thought how nice it was not to worry about the leaves getting packed into the grass. :bounce:
leaves1.jpg

leaves2.jpg

leaves3.jpg

leaves4.jpg

leaves5.jpg

Losing DST *****. I HATE how early it gets dark now. Just as I was finishing up the leaves, I walked back to get the rake and noticed how pretty the mountains looked as the sun was setting.
leaves6.jpg

Then within minutes it was dark.
leaves7.jpg

One small tool that I have thought about making for a while now was a gauge tool to reach into fill holes in rear ends and transmissions to check fluid levels. Many times when a vehicle comes in the fluid isn't coming out of the threaded fill hole, so I will grab a zip-tie, bend it to 90-degrees and insert it to measure how far below the threads the fluid level is, then toss the zip-tie. For the past little while I thought it would be nice to have a dedicated measuring tool that would be easier to read than a plastic zip-tie.

Last night I grabbed a small piece of 3/16" cold rolled and knurled the end by about a half inch.
fluidtool1.jpg

Then stuck it in between some soft jaws to avoid flattening the knurls and bent it to 90-degrees and put a little heat shrink on the end.
fluidtool2.jpg

There, that should work as a nice fluid level gauge that should be easier to read, then clean and stick back in the toolbox for the next time.
fluidtool3.jpg



Thanks for looking.
I like that tool Mike. I don't have a knurling capability but thinking about your zip tie reference I do have a junkyard with plenty of dipsticks in it that I should be able to bend and make something similar.
 
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zmotorsports

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I like that tool Mike. I don't have a knurling capability but thinking about your zip tie reference I do have a junkyard with plenty of dipsticks in it that I should be able to bend and make something similar.

Thanks Scott. Yes, I would assume an old dipstick with hashmarks would work similar, providing it isn't hardened to the point that it breaks upon a hard 90-degree bend.

I've used the zip-tie trick for years now, and although it has worked well, it can be hard to get a good fluid level reading. I has only fairly recently thought I would like to take a few minutes and actually make a tool specifically for this purpose. The knurling tool worked great, although using such a small diameter cold rolled stock, I had to creep up on the tension little by little to prevent deflection or bending the rod in the lathe collet. I kind of like having these job specific tools for little things like this and enjoy using them each time I grab them from the toolbox.
 
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zmotorsports

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Last night I commenced on the next small project, this one all the way from Illinois.

Repair was attempted previously, which they didn't reveal to me and I discovered after opening the box.
case1.jpg

Not sure what this stuff is, I don't recognize it. I see JB Weld all too often on these and as good as JB Weld is, it is still a temporary fix the vast majority of the time.
case2.jpg

This has almost a plastic texture and is somewhat pliable.
case3.jpg

With all of the epoxy removed I can begin the actual repair. Also looks like the owner has been at it with a grinder at some point.
case4.jpg

Measured the drain plug that I asked him to send with the case half and grabbed the corresponding tap.
case5.jpg

This is as close as I could get the case bottom parallel to the mill table. The studs for the cylinder were holding it and I didn't feel like introducing another possible issue by trying to remove them. There was also so much aluminum removed previously that the .3 degrees is within a margin of error of where the flat spot is located as there was very little "flat spot" left.
case6.jpg

Pretty rigid setup so the machining of the hole could begin.
case7.jpg

I was going to grab a short length of round stock and when I opened my drawer this little gem was staring at me. This will work perfectly, just a little fine tuning to size and drill & tap it.
case8.jpg

After a couple of measurements I cut the large diameter thickness down, drilled and tapped.
case9.jpg

Then a slight chamfer was added to the OD and the ID.
case10.jpg


Stay tuned for more pictures.
 
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zmotorsports

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Messages
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Continuing on with the Suzuki engine case.

Bung threaded and the large OD trimmed down to proper length.
case11.jpg

Test fitment of the drain plug and washer. I wanted to go smaller on the OD of the bung, but the drain bolt flange is 1" diameter, so I just matched the same diameter.
case12.jpg

Next I centered up on the damaged hole, zero'd the DRO and used a .625" end mill to open it up.
case13.jpg

Next, while still centered, I used a 1" end mill to flatten off the remaining cast boss and create a recess for the bung to reside.
case14.jpg

Rather than remove material from the bung to fit in the new hole, I opted to keep the material on the bung and remove the next approx. .040" using a boring head.
case15.jpg

I bored to within .001" where the bung was slightly larger and would not easily go into the bore.
case20.jpg

Then measured the depth of the case that I needed to match the bung to. This was to avoid interference issues with the bearing bore perpendicular to the drain plug and would allow the bearing to be pressed into its bore.
case16.jpg

A little heat should open the bore up just enough to allow the bung to drop in. Prior to heating the case up, I used a small rotary bit to remove the surrounding remaining epoxy and prepare the surface for welding.
case17.jpg

The bung needed just a little tap with a mallet, but it fits perfectly.
case18.jpg

Assembly removed from the mill and clamped to the fabrication table for final welding. Steady rest in place as well.
case19.jpg

Thanks for looking.
 

CGarage

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United States/Switzerland
How did they find you? Repair work from Illinois sent to Utah. That is high praise, considering that America’s engine and racing heartland is in their backyard (Dayton, Ohio and Indianapolis, Indiana).

Well done, Mike.

I see the repair you had to make on something like this and I think to myself, how does an owner manage to f**k something like this up??
 
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zmotorsports

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Messages
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How did they find you? Repair work from Illinois sent to Utah. That is high praise, considering that America’s engine and racing heartland is in their backyard (Dayton, Ohio and Indianapolis, Indiana).

Well done, Mike.

I see the repair you had to make on something like this and I think to myself, how does an owner manage to f**k something like this up??

Thank you. This person reached out to me through my YouTube channel on one of my videos where I showed repairing one of these cases a few years ago. I don't know that I would call it "high praise" as much as lack of options by what I was told by the owner. He said he reached out to multiple shops in his area and none would take on such a job. I have had multiple people reach out to me do these repairs since that video, but I have only taken on a handful of them, most I turn away or they never reply back. I guess this guy caught me in the right mood that day. :bounce:

I used to do a lot of these types of repairs when I worked heavily on powersports equipment in my speed shop back in the 90's through around 2012 when I quit working on powersports equipment. Not necessarily drain plugs, although I did a fair amount of those, but case blowouts mainly. On the dirt bikes, Suzuki Quadracers, Honda FourTrax and especially the Yamama Banshee's these were all too common coming into my shop, mainly with the sand duning crowd that I was catering to, well, and a part of. What I found was that the owners would neglect chain maintenance and then the chain would break on a hard acceleration and with sand paddles, there is less slippage than a standard knobby tire, so these things would hook and snap a chain's weak link. This would happen so quick, because it was during a hard launch many times when hillshooting, the chain would then stack up around the countershaft where the drive sprocket attached and blow the case out causing severe damage.

The drain plugs I think are mostly on dirt bikes as the owners contact rocks causing damage, or they simply over torque the drain plug and pull the threads. This is why I advocate to replace the crush washer EVERY time the oil is changed. Same on automotive transmissions and engines, replace the drain plug gasket/washer every time, they're cheap compared to having to perform this repair.

When I had my speed shop, I tried to be a one stop shop for all these repairs whereas most every other powersports shop in our area, could and would do the engine teardown/assembly, but they wouldn't perform the welding. Then they'd have to take it to a welding shop and wait in line for sometimes several weeks. Once a couple of the local powersports shops learned I was doing these, several would just bring me the case and for me it was relatively quick and easy money and I could fit them easily in between other jobs. Many times having them back the shop within a day or a few days turnaround time, then they'd pick them up, reassemble and make their customer happy. I felt like it was a win/win. Especially for my small shop where I didn't have the space nor the time to have another quad torn apart, but I could fit in a case repair while waiting on parts for one my clients.

I am still very surprised when people reach out to me on these that they cannot find a local shop to perform this repair. I've done several now from all over the country, ie. Texas, North Carolina, Florida and now Illinois. Funny, I haven't done any from local people since 2012 when I close the book on working on powersports equipment. :ROFLMAO: Which, maybe that's a good thing because I don't want to get back into that at all.
 

SilverJimmy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
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Location
Prescott/Flagstaff, AZ
This is why I advocate to replace the crush washer EVERY time the oil is changed. Same on automotive transmissions and engines, replace the drain plug gasket/washer every time, they're cheap compared to having to perform this repair.
Thank you Mike! I’ve never had the reason for replacing the crush washer explained before! I have always just inspected the washer and then reinstalled it and torqued the drain plug to spec. Now, I GET IT! More stuff to buy, thanks again!
 
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