Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Monica, I worry anything that level attracts earthquakes.
Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Cabin with a Carport
- Thread starter GirlnAgarage
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Lol hopefully not but if it does, maybe itll square up the building.
Its funny you say that about earthquakes. I think we had a mild one last weekend. It's unusual for this area but not unheard of.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Pegboard is up. I moved it from the far wall, cut to fit and screwed it onto the studs. Unfortunately I couldn't find any of my pegboard hooks. I looked in boxes and rubbermaid containers but I can't remember where I put them for the move, or if I even packed them 
Guess I'll get more.
I moved the tool box. In my previous garage the toolbox was at the left end of my bench. I put it in the same place. I temporarily had it against the door. The big hindrance in this space is the motorcycles. They eat up a lot of floorspace. I just don't have another outbuilding to park them. Until then, they stay here. The place is getting settled, little by little.
Rearranged motorcycles - I pulled the TTR out and lined it up with the WR. This gave enough room for the toolbox. Plus with the toolbox off the door, it has more roomy walk-in space. And I can open the double door again.
Got the remaining lights up. The last 4 lights were installed same way as the other six. And here's my concern. I didn't see this until yesterday but on the end plate if the light were you daisy chain the next light at the outlet is it says "Link up to 6"
I have 10. Will I burn up the lights? Cords? Wall plug? Building? I plan to add a couple circuits, outlets and switches to the building, but that project isn't on the docket yet. I'm not too worried about destroying lights, they were cheap amazon LEDs. But I don't want collateral damage to stuff I do care about. Thoughts?
Also ordered blackout curtains and curtain rod for the window. This one I felt was a biggie. The window over the bench faces west and it is brutally hot in there in the afternoon. The sun will shine in and heat up anything it touches. I intend to prevent that and add a little visual blockage for the outside. I'm not concerned about the curtains being a fire hazard. I don't weld or cut in that room, that is done in the bay outside. They will get dusty and dirty due to the setting but, they will do the job until it's time to throw them out. I thought about blinds but There wasn't enough of the stud on each end to install brackets. Plus they get pretty dirty too and are hard to clean. Least curtains I can toss in the wash IF I feel up to it.
This place is finally getting around to being comfortable to work in. I used the bench yesterday to do a little Flexseal project on my weight lifting hooks. Gosh it is great having a bench to work on. Still a few more items to arrange to get things off the floor, perhaps build a small saw table. We shall see.
Guess I'll get more.I moved the tool box. In my previous garage the toolbox was at the left end of my bench. I put it in the same place. I temporarily had it against the door. The big hindrance in this space is the motorcycles. They eat up a lot of floorspace. I just don't have another outbuilding to park them. Until then, they stay here. The place is getting settled, little by little.
Rearranged motorcycles - I pulled the TTR out and lined it up with the WR. This gave enough room for the toolbox. Plus with the toolbox off the door, it has more roomy walk-in space. And I can open the double door again.
Got the remaining lights up. The last 4 lights were installed same way as the other six. And here's my concern. I didn't see this until yesterday but on the end plate if the light were you daisy chain the next light at the outlet is it says "Link up to 6"
I have 10. Will I burn up the lights? Cords? Wall plug? Building? I plan to add a couple circuits, outlets and switches to the building, but that project isn't on the docket yet. I'm not too worried about destroying lights, they were cheap amazon LEDs. But I don't want collateral damage to stuff I do care about. Thoughts?Also ordered blackout curtains and curtain rod for the window. This one I felt was a biggie. The window over the bench faces west and it is brutally hot in there in the afternoon. The sun will shine in and heat up anything it touches. I intend to prevent that and add a little visual blockage for the outside. I'm not concerned about the curtains being a fire hazard. I don't weld or cut in that room, that is done in the bay outside. They will get dusty and dirty due to the setting but, they will do the job until it's time to throw them out. I thought about blinds but There wasn't enough of the stud on each end to install brackets. Plus they get pretty dirty too and are hard to clean. Least curtains I can toss in the wash IF I feel up to it.
This place is finally getting around to being comfortable to work in. I used the bench yesterday to do a little Flexseal project on my weight lifting hooks. Gosh it is great having a bench to work on. Still a few more items to arrange to get things off the floor, perhaps build a small saw table. We shall see.
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Ralf99
Well-known member
I put a trailer hitch on mine some years ago and was surprised how often I used it - particularly convenient for playing trailer tetris in tight quarters. I always feel a bit guilty about putting a lot of load on the hitch given that the rear axle is cast aluminium, but it hasn't complained as yet.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Looks like a solid setup. Good to hear the rear is still ok. The log splitter will be the heavist thing I think I'll need to shuffle around with this at just under 500lbs. Do you ever get any complaints from the transmission when moving stuff around?I put a trailer hitch on mine some years ago and was surprised how often I used it - particularly convenient for playing trailer tetris in tight quarters. I always feel a bit guilty about putting a lot of load on the hitch given that the rear axle is cast aluminium, but it hasn't complained as yet.
Ralf99
Well-known member
The hitch is by far the strongest part of the mower and has a reinforcing plate on the inside of the chassis that it bolts to.
I have towed trailers loaded over 2000 Lb a few times, and a fairly large caravan once or twice without any transmission issues, but most of what I use it for is moving empty or near empty trailers around on level ground.
I think tongue weight would be the biggest concern as the load plus the weight of the operator goes straight on to the axle.
I have towed trailers loaded over 2000 Lb a few times, and a fairly large caravan once or twice without any transmission issues, but most of what I use it for is moving empty or near empty trailers around on level ground.
I think tongue weight would be the biggest concern as the load plus the weight of the operator goes straight on to the axle.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Curtains are up. Not home decor quality but it'll do for the carport space. Important thing is the keep out the sun and hopefully some heat.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Hey all, watch yourself out there, even doing the regular ho-hum stuff. 2 wks ago I burned myself pretty good bringing in a pan of sirloin steak off the grill. This is #onearmproblems so you two handers might not get it. But when one of your appendages don't talk to you about hot, cold or pain, it's easy to get bit.
Anyway, Im 2wks into recovery on a solid 2nd degree burn to my wrist. Pain has gottabe bad but fortunately don't feel it. The joys of living with an attached paralyzed limb.
Anyway, tonight I'm out testing a lump charcoal making process. No rest for the wicked, or weary, whichever you prefer. God knows I'm His, just tryna make it til I see Him.
Yall be safe, and be fun, live your life to the fullest. Don't quit. Fight with all you got. Until next time.
For my process I'm using a container that fits in my burn barrel. Its galvanized so I did an initial burn to rid the galvanizing.
Sitting out here monitoring the burn barrel, ..45min in I'm getting blow off from the contained oak chunks. Hoping the finished product is good! We shall see.
Ill let all this burn down and cool off overnight. I'm gonna go look for coyotes for the meantimw.
Anyway, Im 2wks into recovery on a solid 2nd degree burn to my wrist. Pain has gottabe bad but fortunately don't feel it. The joys of living with an attached paralyzed limb.
Anyway, tonight I'm out testing a lump charcoal making process. No rest for the wicked, or weary, whichever you prefer. God knows I'm His, just tryna make it til I see Him.
Yall be safe, and be fun, live your life to the fullest. Don't quit. Fight with all you got. Until next time.
For my process I'm using a container that fits in my burn barrel. Its galvanized so I did an initial burn to rid the galvanizing.
Sitting out here monitoring the burn barrel, ..45min in I'm getting blow off from the contained oak chunks. Hoping the finished product is good! We shall see.
Ill let all this burn down and cool off overnight. I'm gonna go look for coyotes for the meantimw.
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Chrisb62
Well-known member
Both a blessing and a curse...... just keep an eye out for infection. Sorry, this has happened to you and stay strong and watchful.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Monica, I can't feel your pain either but sometimes the limitations we have are blessing and curse. I often pull a heavy and hot container out of the microwave with a hot mit and the sleeve on my stump. One of these days I'm going to regret doing that. On the bright side, I'll know I've done it. Like Chris says and you already know, keep an eye on that burn and make friends with Vasoline or Aloe Vera sap if you have some growing on the compound.
captain14
Well-known member
Monica,
Did you go to a burn center to get the injury evaluated? Before I retired from the fire department, all firefighter burns had to be seen, evaluated and treated at one of the burn centers in my region. With your medical history, it may be a good idea.
Plus they have access to a better knowledge of medication, healing and less scaring. Plus you do not want to get an infection on top of everything else.
Jayman17
Well-known member
Sorry you had that accident, sure looks painful even though I know you can't feel it. Keep an eye on that for sure.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
I will, thank you.
Pulling hot soup from the microwave is a trick with one hand. Hot anything really. Yeah keep a mitt to at least lay over your supporting arm. I often forget abt heat transfer which is what got me into this. I do have aloe vera and will use it. This one unfortunately will likely but an ugly scar when it's done.
I went into the stand alone ER because I live way out of town. They cleaned and debrided it, then dressed it with some silver cream and bandages and sent me home. I was instructed to change the bandages and clean the injury every 12 hrs. I'm certain I did run through an infection. My arm swelled up from elbow to fingers two days after. After several days, it came back down. The injury site is shrinking and I see new skin rebuilding itself from the edges. It kind of looks like when the pond slowly goes dry. I keep it covered at work but at home it's uncovered.
It's healing, slowly, or fast, I'm not sure, never had a burn this bad. I wish I had been measuring it to see the rate of rebuilding. I could see changes in the wound in between my bandage changes. I probably should have sought out a burn specialist, but I'm stubborn and it's difficult getting to a Dr in between night shifts on 12s. I know, know excuse
Thanks Jaman17, will do.
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Here's the charcoal I just pulled out of the barrel. Everything is still hot/warm so I left the charcoal can to cool outside the hot coaly barrel. I will pull the charcoal completely out this evening I think and look at it up close. I'm excited to chk it out.
Looks good. Her ein CA we pay $28.00 per 40# bag of mesquite like that.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
And here's the product, came out ok for the first time. It all charcoaled, the brown color is the sunlight.
I threw a second batch in see if I could replicate.
I threw a second batch in see if I could replicate.
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OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Smoking a pork **** with mesquite and pecan and a good dry rub.
View attachment 1977806
On the recent topic of lump charcoal so far I've made three batches with oak. I'm R&Ding small production which includes use. I normally cook with wood so using lump charcoal in different cooks is an interesting addition.
View attachment 1977806
On the recent topic of lump charcoal so far I've made three batches with oak. I'm R&Ding small production which includes use. I normally cook with wood so using lump charcoal in different cooks is an interesting addition.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Finally...got the sheetmetal up. Was a 2person job. But, it's up. Still have a little trimming to do up top and sides, i think, but glad to get this up.
I used the existing beige trim piece to absorb the out-of-plum sheet metal edge. Its one of those, looks good at a distance type of job.
Luckily the last piece ripped out to end on a flat-ish edge instead of crossing a major large rib. The difference between the left and right side of the doorway is 1" over 17'1". Working with someone else's build results kind of sux. Accounting for the out of plum everything added to the work I had to do to get a digestible result.
Aside from fortifying the top drip edge and maybe the side trim, its wrapped up.
Next step for this wall is to get a large Texas flag painted. The way I attached the sheets add to the element of the paint lines. I used a full 12footer on the right and a <6footer on the left. It put the edge seam and screw heads close to the dimensions of the flag.
I used the existing beige trim piece to absorb the out-of-plum sheet metal edge. Its one of those, looks good at a distance type of job.
Luckily the last piece ripped out to end on a flat-ish edge instead of crossing a major large rib. The difference between the left and right side of the doorway is 1" over 17'1". Working with someone else's build results kind of sux. Accounting for the out of plum everything added to the work I had to do to get a digestible result.
Aside from fortifying the top drip edge and maybe the side trim, its wrapped up.
Next step for this wall is to get a large Texas flag painted. The way I attached the sheets add to the element of the paint lines. I used a full 12footer on the right and a <6footer on the left. It put the edge seam and screw heads close to the dimensions of the flag.
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OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Also worked more on charcoal production. I'm filling a toolbox with oak for my use. And sitting outside, brewing another batch of mesquite.
Swanny1953
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just found this thread and read through it this morning. You sure do accomplish a lot and the place is coming along nicely!! Subscribed to follow along your journey.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Thanks!
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
After a year of "I need to put up the fence", increasingly dealing with predators and trespassers of the four legged kind and losing pets, the fence work is finally in a 'can start' place. With an entire year of delay, due to scheduling in the spring and another very harsh summer, the pencil hit the paper AND IT IS GOING TO GET DONE.
The total perimeter with gate entrance is 2,179'.
The current fence is rotted out, comprised of cedar posts, tposts and rusty, rotted field fence with 2 top lines of rusted out barbed wire. It's. got. to. go.
The new fence will consist of steel pipe, pipe braces, pipe and Tpost line posts, a wider 12" gate and new woven fence on three sides. The fourth side gets a new woven fence only. I will work on one section at a time in order to maintain some perimeter control. I don't want any more downed sections, predator pressure is high. I'm already experiencing a huge uptick for those few sections that are down.
Starting out I drew out each corner and brace, put dimensions to each and itemized & priced the materials and tools. It's crazy, the total cost right now is what a fence company quoted just for one section. I realize a fence company has overhead and trade skill, but gosh almighty, I can't afford to have a fencing company come in for that price. Guess who's getting a bunch of new tools!!?!
I'm using 1348-12 woven wire. 4" corners, 3.5" brace post w 2-7/8" HN diagonals and line posts every 5th. 12' spacing and Tposts will be the final posts in. Posts will be set outside the wire, dug and cemented; Tpost will be driven. I'm planning to run a high tensile line at the bottom. I'm planning to leave space up top for at least 1 line, maybe 2 of barbed wire. I think this fence might be a little overbuilt, and I'm ok with that.
The north side will be a line of new everything. I think I've got photos up of the clean-up and layout of that line. This line is moving out in accordance with the property survey. While only a small adjustment, the total area gained is a third of an acre.
The east side will be new everything, including a reworked gate entry. The entry will be wider to relieve swing in and longer to accommodate a standing truck and trailer combo, so it doesn't stick out in the road.
The south is also a full replacement of posts and fence. This one is the most complicated as I'm working with a neighbor and keeping him informed of all doings as it's a shared fence. He was the smart neighbor. I didn't ask for anything except his cooperation and he will get a whole new fence out of it, for free. I'm good with it. Obstructions-wise this is the worst side. There's a lot of line cleanup to do from trees, vegetation, downed trees and accumulated junk from the previous tenants.
The west should be the quickest to get up. This will be the woven fence attached to my side of an existing barbed wire fence w/ wooden posts. This neighbor agreed to me replacing the current rusted broken woven fence with new woven fence. I have a little fence line clearing to do in spots, but I'm not anticipating it being extensive. I suppose there's always those famous last words lol
As we speak I've got a strainer board, two boundary strainers, pipe and tpost clips, gripple T and plus connections inbound. The pipe order is going in tonight, and they'll let me know when delivery is.
I'll pick up two rolls of fence and U nails locally tomorrow or Friday to start on the west side. That should lead me into starting the post setting on the north.
Holes will be dug with a HF post hole auger that I'll pick up. I'll use the extension and 6" for the brace and line post; 8" for the big corners.
I'm using Gripple connections due to ease of use for a beginner, and the amount of terminations and connections with a 13line wire over the distance I have. Normally I'm about learning the skill, in this case wire tieing, but this project is big enough, I'm taking the advantage on this one.
The total perimeter with gate entrance is 2,179'.
The current fence is rotted out, comprised of cedar posts, tposts and rusty, rotted field fence with 2 top lines of rusted out barbed wire. It's. got. to. go.
The new fence will consist of steel pipe, pipe braces, pipe and Tpost line posts, a wider 12" gate and new woven fence on three sides. The fourth side gets a new woven fence only. I will work on one section at a time in order to maintain some perimeter control. I don't want any more downed sections, predator pressure is high. I'm already experiencing a huge uptick for those few sections that are down.
Starting out I drew out each corner and brace, put dimensions to each and itemized & priced the materials and tools. It's crazy, the total cost right now is what a fence company quoted just for one section. I realize a fence company has overhead and trade skill, but gosh almighty, I can't afford to have a fencing company come in for that price. Guess who's getting a bunch of new tools!!?!
I'm using 1348-12 woven wire. 4" corners, 3.5" brace post w 2-7/8" HN diagonals and line posts every 5th. 12' spacing and Tposts will be the final posts in. Posts will be set outside the wire, dug and cemented; Tpost will be driven. I'm planning to run a high tensile line at the bottom. I'm planning to leave space up top for at least 1 line, maybe 2 of barbed wire. I think this fence might be a little overbuilt, and I'm ok with that.
The north side will be a line of new everything. I think I've got photos up of the clean-up and layout of that line. This line is moving out in accordance with the property survey. While only a small adjustment, the total area gained is a third of an acre.
The east side will be new everything, including a reworked gate entry. The entry will be wider to relieve swing in and longer to accommodate a standing truck and trailer combo, so it doesn't stick out in the road.
The south is also a full replacement of posts and fence. This one is the most complicated as I'm working with a neighbor and keeping him informed of all doings as it's a shared fence. He was the smart neighbor. I didn't ask for anything except his cooperation and he will get a whole new fence out of it, for free. I'm good with it. Obstructions-wise this is the worst side. There's a lot of line cleanup to do from trees, vegetation, downed trees and accumulated junk from the previous tenants.
The west should be the quickest to get up. This will be the woven fence attached to my side of an existing barbed wire fence w/ wooden posts. This neighbor agreed to me replacing the current rusted broken woven fence with new woven fence. I have a little fence line clearing to do in spots, but I'm not anticipating it being extensive. I suppose there's always those famous last words lol
As we speak I've got a strainer board, two boundary strainers, pipe and tpost clips, gripple T and plus connections inbound. The pipe order is going in tonight, and they'll let me know when delivery is.
I'll pick up two rolls of fence and U nails locally tomorrow or Friday to start on the west side. That should lead me into starting the post setting on the north.
Holes will be dug with a HF post hole auger that I'll pick up. I'll use the extension and 6" for the brace and line post; 8" for the big corners.
I'm using Gripple connections due to ease of use for a beginner, and the amount of terminations and connections with a 13line wire over the distance I have. Normally I'm about learning the skill, in this case wire tieing, but this project is big enough, I'm taking the advantage on this one.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Yowza indeed! This by far will be the biggest project I've tackled. Up until it, it was closing in the carport. Guess I'm going through a DIY growth spurt 
I will have my BF helping me out. Once we get into a workflow it should go ok.
I will have my BF helping me out. Once we get into a workflow it should go ok.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
First round of pipe delivered today. I also started clearing the west line, got abt 100' done, another 600'+ to go. The section pictured behind the chain link fence is abt 75'or 150, I can't remember. Its the worst part on the line. Mainly old tasajillo cactus.
I'm confused. That last pic looks like there's a pretty decent chain link fence already in place.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Oh yes you are correct, that is an enclosed back yard, abt a quarter acre. It does not go around the whole house. For the project, I'm working on replacing the property perimeter fence. The section past the end of the fence(that you cant see in the photo( goes another 500ft or so. (Edit: 565')
Eta: this section is the west side, one of the two shared fences. This section just gets a woven fence replacement for the entire line. The current fence is rusted and broken, allowing in predators.
Ill take a pic when daylight hits to show the rest if the west section more clearly
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OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Got abt 100ft of the first section up. A little tricky but figured it out. Removing the old staples took a while to get the old field fence off. Putting the new fence up, maneuvering the fence roll was tough, it couldn't be laid down to roll out the whole way due to trees. So wrestling it was. I was able to apply a little tension to take some slack out, but I couldn't go much since I was tightening off a line post. I knew going into this section and went ahead to see what the limit was. Found it.
The result is not up to what I wanted, but it is what could be done. I anticipate that working off my own new braces and posts on the new section will come out better than working off the existing fence with limitations.
The total work time 9a-430p. Longer than I expected, staples on wood posts is slow goings. I'm considering getting a staple gun.
On a tool note, my new Strainrite boundary strainers showed up. It's getting real. What'd I get myself in to?
The result is not up to what I wanted, but it is what could be done. I anticipate that working off my own new braces and posts on the new section will come out better than working off the existing fence with limitations.
The total work time 9a-430p. Longer than I expected, staples on wood posts is slow goings. I'm considering getting a staple gun.
On a tool note, my new Strainrite boundary strainers showed up. It's getting real. What'd I get myself in to?
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Monica, the staple gun sounds like a good idea, considering how much fencing you are putting up. Since you already have DeWalt tools and batteries, I assume you are looking at the ~$600 DeWalt DCF950B Brushless 9GA Fencing Stapler. That's an expensive tool but cheaper than renting a StockAde gun. The Schwarz Equipment Company will rent you one for $798 (with one box of staples) but if you only use it for 4 days you'll be refunded $499. It gets better: "If you rent a stapler and the total rental days is equal or greater than the cost of the stapler, we will inform you that the stapler is yours to keep. For the ST400 that is 14 rental days, for the ST400i that is 19 rental days." I'm guessing this fence project is going to take more than 19 days.
The DeWalt tool makes even more sense when you can get the staples from Home Depot. The down side is the colated staples are way more expensive than a bucket of loose staples. I'm absolutely sure those expenses are a fraction of what the fence company wants. You're spending your valuable time on the project so the money invested in the tool and supplies is buying your time back. Not to mention having the tool for future fence repairs and /or upgrades.
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Bob, I bought the Dewalt 950 
As I set here this morning, all sore and tired, and a little bit disappointed, I estimated only going ~100', (EDit: I measured, 160'). I watched only 3 videos and out came the card to order online. It should get here asap. I instantly felt better, no regrets buying it lol I grabbed the tool only and a box of staples, I've got several 4ah batteries. The total cost was almost $780 shipped so it's not insignificant on the total project cost, but for how much it should speed up the work, I'm already calling it worth it. (EDIT again: 56 more posts).
For staple pricing as you said, they are more expensive per container. And I'm gonna try and find out how much more expensive than the 8lb bucket. There's 960 staples in a Dewalt box for about $80-85. A 8lb bucket is $24. I'm fixing to go out and count posts to see how many staples it'll take to finish off the rest of this section. I'm using 1348-12; using StayTuff's heavy duty pressure stapling pattern which totals 8 staples per post.
So far, I fenced 17 posts x 8 staples = 136 staples used + 1 extra cause I added a staple extra to a post by accident, so 137. There are 321 staples left in the bucket (yes, I just counted them). 321 + 137 = 458 staples in that bucket for $23.75 x 8.25% = $25.71/bucket and $0.06 per staple.
I need to finish counting the rest of the posts in the section, I'll do that in a bit too.
My lasagna is ready. I'll be back in a bit to tally up the Dewalt cost....for funzies
Ok, continuing...
Dewalt box 960 staples 82.46 + tax = $89.26 / 960 staples = $0.09 per staple.
While the cost per staple is noticeable, spending $0.24 more per post, $0.72 vs $0.48. I'm guessing I can completing 3..4? posts for every one manually hammering staples. Let's see, the magazine holds 35 staples, so 4.3 posts per magazine.
Of course, there's a cost in there for the staple gun too. But it'll speed the work tremendously.
Man, I nerded out.
Alright, coming back to add more math. I counted 56 posts left to fence (= 448 staples) and 17 already done (137 staples). Total of 73 posts to staple x 8 staples a post. Makes for 584 staples needed for the total job.
Breaking down more costs, if I "rent" the stapler at $629 +tax for the remaining 56 posts, that cost is $12.15 per post plus $0.72 staple cost pp, grand total of $12.87 to install a post on my labor.
It took 3hrs to take down the old fence (30min lunch) and 4hrs to install the new fence. I'm looking forward to seeing the difference using the staple gun makes on install time. I wish I had a solution to make taking down the old fence faster. Old staples pounded all the way down into the post are slow going.
As I set here this morning, all sore and tired, and a little bit disappointed, I estimated only going ~100', (EDit: I measured, 160'). I watched only 3 videos and out came the card to order online. It should get here asap. I instantly felt better, no regrets buying it lol I grabbed the tool only and a box of staples, I've got several 4ah batteries. The total cost was almost $780 shipped so it's not insignificant on the total project cost, but for how much it should speed up the work, I'm already calling it worth it. (EDIT again: 56 more posts).
For staple pricing as you said, they are more expensive per container. And I'm gonna try and find out how much more expensive than the 8lb bucket. There's 960 staples in a Dewalt box for about $80-85. A 8lb bucket is $24. I'm fixing to go out and count posts to see how many staples it'll take to finish off the rest of this section. I'm using 1348-12; using StayTuff's heavy duty pressure stapling pattern which totals 8 staples per post.
So far, I fenced 17 posts x 8 staples = 136 staples used + 1 extra cause I added a staple extra to a post by accident, so 137. There are 321 staples left in the bucket (yes, I just counted them). 321 + 137 = 458 staples in that bucket for $23.75 x 8.25% = $25.71/bucket and $0.06 per staple.
I need to finish counting the rest of the posts in the section, I'll do that in a bit too.
My lasagna is ready. I'll be back in a bit to tally up the Dewalt cost....for funzies
Ok, continuing...
Dewalt box 960 staples 82.46 + tax = $89.26 / 960 staples = $0.09 per staple.
While the cost per staple is noticeable, spending $0.24 more per post, $0.72 vs $0.48. I'm guessing I can completing 3..4? posts for every one manually hammering staples. Let's see, the magazine holds 35 staples, so 4.3 posts per magazine.
Of course, there's a cost in there for the staple gun too. But it'll speed the work tremendously.
Man, I nerded out.
Alright, coming back to add more math. I counted 56 posts left to fence (= 448 staples) and 17 already done (137 staples). Total of 73 posts to staple x 8 staples a post. Makes for 584 staples needed for the total job.
Breaking down more costs, if I "rent" the stapler at $629 +tax for the remaining 56 posts, that cost is $12.15 per post plus $0.72 staple cost pp, grand total of $12.87 to install a post on my labor.
It took 3hrs to take down the old fence (30min lunch) and 4hrs to install the new fence. I'm looking forward to seeing the difference using the staple gun makes on install time. I wish I had a solution to make taking down the old fence faster. Old staples pounded all the way down into the post are slow going.
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Yay! A bunch of supply and tools arrived today.
I'll let the cat out of the box tomorrow.
I'll let the cat out of the box tomorrow.
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Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Girl (Monica?) I've been around here a long time but I'm not sure if I've ever posted to one of you threads before - might just b my poor memory aka "lame-old-dude-itis! - so introductions may be in order. Pleased to "meet" you.
I've read (well, actually skimmed/looked at the pictures) in your "Girl's 18.5x20.5" and "Reorganization, it' like a Renovation" threads. Some very nice work in both. This thread REALLY shows a willingness to take on nearly anything and to work your **** off getting things done. I am more than impressed.
It just knocks me out you are doing this with one arm??!!! I doubt I could do many of them with two arms. Maybe I missed it but hav you dealt with this since birth or was it the result of injury/accident? It is amazing the things I don't do that people with different abilities than I have still manage to get done. You and Bob Heine immediately come to mind of course! The tenacity and inventiveness it must take seems incredible.
I love the idea of your farm/ranch. I wish I had space and I enjoy reading all your posts but I am curious about the long horn cattle. I'm a city boy so I know NOTHING whatsoever about farm animals - please excuse the dumb questions. How many head do you have and how many will you be able to raise on your 40 acres? Do they roam entirely free 24/7/365 and if not where can they go in the worst of the winter? With their long horns do they injure each other? It seems like they would inadvertently. I assume you're raising them to sell for their meat, is that right? Sorry for so many questions and if I don't hear from you, Merry Christmas to you and yours. Please be safe out there! Best, Dan
I've read (well, actually skimmed/looked at the pictures) in your "Girl's 18.5x20.5" and "Reorganization, it' like a Renovation" threads. Some very nice work in both. This thread REALLY shows a willingness to take on nearly anything and to work your **** off getting things done. I am more than impressed.
It just knocks me out you are doing this with one arm??!!! I doubt I could do many of them with two arms. Maybe I missed it but hav you dealt with this since birth or was it the result of injury/accident? It is amazing the things I don't do that people with different abilities than I have still manage to get done. You and Bob Heine immediately come to mind of course! The tenacity and inventiveness it must take seems incredible.
I love the idea of your farm/ranch. I wish I had space and I enjoy reading all your posts but I am curious about the long horn cattle. I'm a city boy so I know NOTHING whatsoever about farm animals - please excuse the dumb questions. How many head do you have and how many will you be able to raise on your 40 acres? Do they roam entirely free 24/7/365 and if not where can they go in the worst of the winter? With their long horns do they injure each other? It seems like they would inadvertently. I assume you're raising them to sell for their meat, is that right? Sorry for so many questions and if I don't hear from you, Merry Christmas to you and yours. Please be safe out there! Best, Dan
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Hi Dan
I'm glad you stopped in. And thanks for checking out my previous garage builds. Yes, I am one armed, it adds some trickiness to stuff lol I had a serious mv accident my freshman year of college so I relearned how to do life I guess. It really is like the saying, where there is a will, there is a way. Before I moved in my plan was to find a property and raise longhorns for meat. Unfortunately it won't be on this place, least not in a business capacity, perhaps just for personal for time being. The acreage is too small. At the time I was buying I was looking for minimum 20acres, ideally 40-50ac. In a matter of less than 2mths, the market dried up and I was forced to get into this place or relegated to an apt since I had already sold my house and the clock was ticking, and that was a h E L L no to the apt.
As serendipity would have it, the large property next to us raises longhorns and we've opened up a neighborly dialog with them. Right now I get the easy part of "raising cows", feeding them cubes and socializing lol It took me a little bit but I'm coming around to taking this detour on a small place for now as good sign that I get a chance to get warmed up in terms of chores, maintenance, gathering equipment and more experience so that when I finally find the right property, I can hit the ground running.
As far as carrying capacity, it depends on the forage production and grazing practice, but 6-8 on a 20ac place. The idea of wagyu has will come up as well. My beef supplier sometimes has calves he will sell and I'm not opposed to the idea of feeding one out and taking him to butcher to learn those steps of the process. While the original plan is longhorns for meat, if wagyu becomes a viable option it would be seriously considered. Heck, even a cross wouldn't be terrible. It would be unique, aside from the total opposites of their breeds for meat characteristics, sometimes the uniqueness factor is a selling point.
With a cattle operation you want to have good forage and backup supply, good water access, protection from the cold/heat, good fences and predator control. There are several grazing styles and depending on which is chosen dictates what kind of buildings or fencing to have in place. Also affects how hands on you will be and how often.
Longhorns are tough animals. They can tolerate bitter cold and drought heat. And they know the tips of their long horns like you and I know the back of our hands. I've watched the big mama here use her horns to fend off attacking dogs and defend her calf, and I've seen her gently corral her little one when she wants to get her going in the right direction. They are very skilled with them. And yes, they can injure one another. Up close you can see slash marks and scars on their hides from them jostling around or getting horned in the hierarchy.
All the questions are fine, it's fun to talk about.
Merry Christmas to you too Dan
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Thanks for the quick reply. Terribly sorry to hear about your college accident. Hard to imagine but it seems like you've truly made lemonade from a lemon situation. I'm inspired by people that have your zest for life and get on with getting on! Doesn't seem like there are too many things you can't do, at least per your posts.
Very interesting about the longhorns. I could never do that because I've had a Disney upbringing and I love animals - though I DO eat them, UGH. I'd fall in love with them...well at least in "like". I had to look up wagyu - I'd never heard of it but now I'd like to try some - poor critters, ha ha.
Yes, I hope you and yours have. wonderful Christmas and Happy New Years. May we all be so lucky! - Dan
Very interesting about the longhorns. I could never do that because I've had a Disney upbringing and I love animals - though I DO eat them, UGH. I'd fall in love with them...well at least in "like". I had to look up wagyu - I'd never heard of it but now I'd like to try some - poor critters, ha ha.
Yes, I hope you and yours have. wonderful Christmas and Happy New Years. May we all be so lucky! - Dan
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Thanks Dan! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well.
Alrighty, the fence...I totally forgot I was getting photos of the rest of the west fence. Here it is coming out the other end of the fenced back yard, and then you can see it run down the rest of the line, waaay down there. That old stuff will get pulled off and new stuff will get put back in.
Now, the north side is getting started tomorrow. I've got the one man post auger all fueled up and test run. The corner post is 4" x 10.5' that will be set to 5'. I've got an 8" wide bit at 31" and a 21" extension to get it down to 52" but I need to get down to 60". Without wanting to hand dig at that depth, I'm thinking a quick trip to the store in the morning to grab a second extension. I figured if the attachment points match up at the top and bottom, it should work. Has anyone doubled up on the auger extensions? Will it break? Will I shoot it through the side of my femur? I don't know. But I'm gonna find out. I'm thinking that the hole will be dug to full depth with the first extension, shut it off, unpin and attach the 2nd extension while the bit is in the hole. I'll mark the 2nd extension so the hole isn't over dug. Once at depth, shut off the auger and pull it out all weird and awkward-like, or stand on the utv if I can get it back there. But the hole should be to depth. I'll set with some fast setting Sakrete. And all the while I'm working on this I'll have a cow head in the smoker, making up some barbacoa for the new year's eve festivities.
I went out to the north corner tonight. I dug out the existing two rotten cedar posts. They were only set about 2' down. I've got the 3rd post to remove and it's already loose. This is where the new corner post will set.
Alrighty, the fence...I totally forgot I was getting photos of the rest of the west fence. Here it is coming out the other end of the fenced back yard, and then you can see it run down the rest of the line, waaay down there. That old stuff will get pulled off and new stuff will get put back in.
Now, the north side is getting started tomorrow. I've got the one man post auger all fueled up and test run. The corner post is 4" x 10.5' that will be set to 5'. I've got an 8" wide bit at 31" and a 21" extension to get it down to 52" but I need to get down to 60". Without wanting to hand dig at that depth, I'm thinking a quick trip to the store in the morning to grab a second extension. I figured if the attachment points match up at the top and bottom, it should work. Has anyone doubled up on the auger extensions? Will it break? Will I shoot it through the side of my femur? I don't know. But I'm gonna find out. I'm thinking that the hole will be dug to full depth with the first extension, shut it off, unpin and attach the 2nd extension while the bit is in the hole. I'll mark the 2nd extension so the hole isn't over dug. Once at depth, shut off the auger and pull it out all weird and awkward-like, or stand on the utv if I can get it back there. But the hole should be to depth. I'll set with some fast setting Sakrete. And all the while I'm working on this I'll have a cow head in the smoker, making up some barbacoa for the new year's eve festivities.
I went out to the north corner tonight. I dug out the existing two rotten cedar posts. They were only set about 2' down. I've got the 3rd post to remove and it's already loose. This is where the new corner post will set.
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Monica, cow head sounds delicious. Now I need to find a restaurant that serves it because there's no way I'm sneaking one into the freezer.
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Bob, barbacoa is an excellent breakfast. Or lunch. Or dinner. But yeah, the starting point is a bit, um, gruesome lol I've had my guy sitting in the fridge for about 4 days now, dethawing from the deep freeze. I faced him away from the door opening
my Mil came to visit us about 25 yrs ago. while she was gone, one of her friends stopped by to leave her the head. it was still there 7 days later, sitting in a garage, in the August heat, when the MiL returned. the friend didn't know she was out of town......Bob, barbacoa is an excellent breakfast. Or lunch. Or dinner. But yeah, the starting point is a bit, um, gruesome lol I've had my guy sitting in the fridge for about 4 days now, dethawing from the deep freeze. I faced him away from the door opening
I've been in Mexican supermarkets. you ca keep the lingua, sesos, tripas, barbacoa, and all the rest of the nasty stuff
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GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
The cowhead is seasoned, wrapped and in the smoker 
OP
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
The first corner post is in! Man, I feel accomplished and its not even the end of the day.
The yellow marked post is the original corner that is coming out. That is the third and final that was bunched up in that corner from the existing dilapidated fence.
The cedar post were only in 2' and they were torn to shreds over the years by termites and ants. Short work to get them out with the sharp shooter.
Then came in the post hole auger and 8" but and extension. When that was most the way down the 2nd extension was added.
It worked as hoped. Sunk that hole 5'...actually 2" further than needed but it'll do. Used 2 bags of Sakrete and a gallon and a half of water. That post set fast. It's all good n plumb. Filled in the dirt, got it all nice and packed and the work area tidied up.
And you can see the rest of the north section yet to come.
The yellow marked post is the original corner that is coming out. That is the third and final that was bunched up in that corner from the existing dilapidated fence.
The cedar post were only in 2' and they were torn to shreds over the years by termites and ants. Short work to get them out with the sharp shooter.
Then came in the post hole auger and 8" but and extension. When that was most the way down the 2nd extension was added.
It worked as hoped. Sunk that hole 5'...actually 2" further than needed but it'll do. Used 2 bags of Sakrete and a gallon and a half of water. That post set fast. It's all good n plumb. Filled in the dirt, got it all nice and packed and the work area tidied up.
And you can see the rest of the north section yet to come.
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