This was PETG in question on this print....appreciate you sharing your process as if this works and proves it was the filament I was wondering about adopting a similar practice of drying PETG before every use. I may have to look at another dryer for usage with my enclosed machine so thanks for sharing what you're using! The Voron will see mostly ABS and ASA and the amazon cheap-o doesn't go hot enough for those...and if my wife caught me drying filament in her new oven there'd probably be a status change from "member" to "in memory of" on my profile here!
Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT 3rd time's a charm with a 3 car workshop
- Thread starter loganb
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
This was PETG in question on this print....appreciate you sharing your process as if this works and proves it was the filament I was wondering about adopting a similar practice of drying PETG before every use. I may have to look at another dryer for usage with my enclosed machine so thanks for sharing what you're using! The Voron will see mostly ABS and ASA and the amazon cheap-o doesn't go hot enough for those...and if my wife caught me drying filament in her new oven there'd probably be a status change from "member" to "in memory of" on my profile here!
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how much nicer and more reliable your print quality will become by drying properly before each use. Even with our relatively low humidity, I've had PETG begin to show signs of moisture (excessive stringing is the first indicator) within one week of drying. It's so easy to dry it and it relieves a lot of printing headaches. 24 hours may be overkill, but I've tried just 8 or 12 hours before and it's simply not enough, even at 65C. Between dialing in settings and dry filament, I can print with PETG with virtually the same ease as PLA. The dryer I mentioned previously will not disappoint, and is even expandable up to 4 or 6 spools at once if you fancy. I'll likely be ordering the expansion kit for mine soon so I can dry four at a time.
So here is a bit better shot of what I think was the worst looking print that actually finished I'd had in awhile....
I personally hate printing in gray as it seems to spotlight issues more than other colors, but it was what was at hand so used it. This was IIID Max brand PETG material, brand new, sealed in bag and opened up and immediately started printing....but the stringing and little bubbles in the layers screamed "wet filament" even though it shouldn't have been an issue. The IIID Max filament has printed decently for me, maybe not as consistent as some other brands but when buying in rolls of 10 or more it's an extremely attractive pricing
So after buying an "el-cheapo" china filament dryer and sticking the roll in question in for 9 hours at 50 degrees(Max temp of el-cheapo), I reran it overnight:
So definitely an improvement with stringing mostly gone...however still present and the surface finish is still showing the small imperfections indicating it may not be dry enough. So this to me confirms my suspicion of wet filament, next step is that roll is back on the dryer for another day or two to see what that does while I research a better dryer option...but looks like I'll probably end up with the one Austin recommended above as it hits the major things I was looking at in terms of being able to dry ABS/ASA which take much higher temps and also being able to dry multiple rolls simultaneously
I personally hate printing in gray as it seems to spotlight issues more than other colors, but it was what was at hand so used it. This was IIID Max brand PETG material, brand new, sealed in bag and opened up and immediately started printing....but the stringing and little bubbles in the layers screamed "wet filament" even though it shouldn't have been an issue. The IIID Max filament has printed decently for me, maybe not as consistent as some other brands but when buying in rolls of 10 or more it's an extremely attractive pricing
So after buying an "el-cheapo" china filament dryer and sticking the roll in question in for 9 hours at 50 degrees(Max temp of el-cheapo), I reran it overnight:
So definitely an improvement with stringing mostly gone...however still present and the surface finish is still showing the small imperfections indicating it may not be dry enough. So this to me confirms my suspicion of wet filament, next step is that roll is back on the dryer for another day or two to see what that does while I research a better dryer option...but looks like I'll probably end up with the one Austin recommended above as it hits the major things I was looking at in terms of being able to dry ABS/ASA which take much higher temps and also being able to dry multiple rolls simultaneously
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
Definitely wet filament! It's extremely common to get wet PETG even straight out of the vacuum seal. The manufacturer often doesn't dry the material prior to packaging. I would also print a temp tower for that filament to see what it's optimal print temp is.
Another filament dryer option, although it only heats to 70C, is this Sunlu Filadryer S4 which I actually just backed minutes ago. It's the first Kickstarter that I've ever backed. It was about $105 for the dryer and a spool of filament (it was the cheapest available tier) and that's super cheap for a 4 spool dryer. Not exactly sure when it will be shipping, but it's kind of too cheap not to try.
Another filament dryer option, although it only heats to 70C, is this Sunlu Filadryer S4 which I actually just backed minutes ago. It's the first Kickstarter that I've ever backed. It was about $105 for the dryer and a spool of filament (it was the cheapest available tier) and that's super cheap for a 4 spool dryer. Not exactly sure when it will be shipping, but it's kind of too cheap not to try.
nicholam77
Well-known member
Thanks for the input. I've only ever used PLA
, nothing else has seemed to be needed or worth the hassle for my level of printing.May I ask how you would store PLA? To be clear I meant I just put the partially used rolls back in their cardboard boxes (some ventilation, none of the original shrink wrap or anything). I don't print that often so they sit around for quite awhile. I've never had any major issues, but aside from a potential dryer, should I really be storing them in vacuum bags or does it not matter that much for PLA your saying?
Today is basically packed with conference calls and I despise them....and distractions are winning out
Embedding some magnets....
Making spaghetti:
That was supposed to be the other half of the print with magnets in it....reprint is happening now but I believe the print head crashed into the part as it was moving to "home" to do the timelapse image shot. It's a cool feature but the problem with how it's implemented here with it sending the head home, snapping pic then back to print is it drives a lot of excess movement and slows down the process...along with increasing risk of issues
And thanks to @MadeByMiller his originally recommended filament dryer should find a home here next week
Embedding some magnets....
Making spaghetti:
That was supposed to be the other half of the print with magnets in it....reprint is happening now but I believe the print head crashed into the part as it was moving to "home" to do the timelapse image shot. It's a cool feature but the problem with how it's implemented here with it sending the head home, snapping pic then back to print is it drives a lot of excess movement and slows down the process...along with increasing risk of issues
And thanks to @MadeByMiller his originally recommended filament dryer should find a home here next week
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
PLA storage can be as basic as just storing it in a room with minimal temperature changes and away from direct sunlight. My personal PLA storage setup isn't that much more elaborate. I keep unused spools vacuum sealed of course until I'm ready to use them and store them in some Ziplock brand totes that my mother in law gave to me. They have a foam gasket, but I'm sure they aren't airtight. I throw the desiccant packs that come with the spools into the totes. Here's a crummy picture of the setup, stored in the darkest corner of my office:Thanks for the input. I've only ever used PLA
May I ask how you would store PLA? To be clear I meant I just put the partially used rolls back in their cardboard boxes (some ventilation, none of the original shrink wrap or anything). I don't print that often so they sit around for quite awhile. I've never had any major issues, but aside from a potential dryer, should I really be storing them in vacuum bags or does it not matter that much for PLA your saying?
My PETG storage isn't very sophisticated either. I found this awesome cabinet that I can fit 8 spools/drawer into and it keeps them at least away from sunlight.
Prints with embedded magnets are cool! What's it for? Glad I could help you spend some of your money!Today is basically packed with conference calls and I despise them....and distractions are winning out
Embedding some magnets....
Making spaghetti:
That was supposed to be the other half of the print with magnets in it....reprint is happening now but I believe the print head crashed into the part as it was moving to "home" to do the timelapse image shot. It's a cool feature but the problem with how it's implemented here with it sending the head home, snapping pic then back to print is it drives a lot of excess movement and slows down the process...along with increasing risk of issues
And thanks to @MadeByMiller his originally recommended filament dryer should find a home here next week
Printing project is these vac connectors
Printables
www.printables.com
That's the female end.... now to figure out the various male ends I need....
And got the notification today that the add in "expansion pack" for the dryer shipped but not the dryer! Lol. It was listed as out of stock and back in stock Friday so I wasn't expecting them to ship it separately
Heating up
Expansion tank is new, didn't have one before and water hammer on washer was annoying and probably not good for anything...see if this fixes or at least lessens it. Will have to come back later and put a t back in to supply the humidifier, but it was being a bear and I didn't have a new one so to hopefully enable bathtime tonight for kids it was declared a "future Logan problem"
Would have loved to make it a high efficiency thankless but that would have involved cutting access in 30' of finished basement ceiling....not that valuable of space for me.
Expansion tank is new, didn't have one before and water hammer on washer was annoying and probably not good for anything...see if this fixes or at least lessens it. Will have to come back later and put a t back in to supply the humidifier, but it was being a bear and I didn't have a new one so to hopefully enable bathtime tonight for kids it was declared a "future Logan problem"
Would have loved to make it a high efficiency thankless but that would have involved cutting access in 30' of finished basement ceiling....not that valuable of space for me.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Last one I replaced was the day we got home from vacation a few years back. Nothing like being excited for a shower in your own bathroom, only to find the water heater split.
I've been lucky...my 2 water heater failures were both caught fairly early and on concrete with nothing around to damage from water. The last house I proactively replaced one so I could abandon a roof exhaust prior to a new roof going on and eliminating one leak point
For an appliance failure I can't complain too much....wife caught it pretty early on...I was in there last night and it wasn't doing this:
It did it while we have guests here(in-laws) which means more showers but also help for the kids while I was working on it...so in the end that was a net positive.
As is the norm...even though the floor drain is 2 ft to the left of that water heater in this picture...there was a low spot to the right of it between it and the freezer...doh! Once it was out it was easy to get the water out
Looks like it was about 3.5 hours from returning with the heater to having it heating...so probably not professional level but with also adding an expansion tank and a bit of dealing with household "stuff" doesn't feel too bad. And there was only the initial run to the box store for parts! That's probably a bigger accomplishment, but happy the dozen or so solder joints so far are all dry and leak free....if that continues I'll be pleased. Just finished getting warranty registered, rebate submitted to utility provider and the manuals/receipts etc into our "household stuff binder" and looked up the prior water heater warranty before tossing that paperwork. It was only a 6 year tank warranty and it was 10 years old so it was on it's last leg...even if it had been a 10 or 12 year unit looks like warranty was non-transferable so wouldn't have mattered anyway.
As mentioned earlier, I would've loved to have replaced this with a tankless...however there wasn't a non-condensing unit available today that I liked the reviews on, and condensing units with the PVC intake/exhaust were a non-starter due to the work it would take to get those lines run thru a finished ceiling. In the summer the only gas appliance we have running is the water heater and we average about 70 cents a day of actual gas costs...so the energy savings potential of a higher efficiency unit is going to be a pretty long payback. I looked hard at moving it back against the wall to what I would call a "less dumb" location then floating out where it is...but that then may cause issues with access on the back side of the furnace and it just didn't seem worthwhile
So I'm going to leave the tools down there till tomorrow and see if any other leaks appear...otherwise a bit of cleanup and this project is done. Hopefully I can remind my wife of the 500 to $1k in labor bill we probably saved here when she sees the receipts for some other unrelated tools I had already bought....cause those are definitely the same thing.
For plumbing projects that are actually planned....
Couple spots where sprinkler coverage wasn't sufficient....this isn't how I thought this one would go but had to trench to the sidewalk one to get to a line. It's done and doesn't look like total garbage with the grass back. 1 other head addition is done, a 3rd hasn't been started yet, I'll toss some extra grass seed over the trenched area and go from there.
Getting notifications like this makes me glad that I wasn't the one responsible for this error....
I'd noticed that one of our robot vac's had a fault light on it but hadn't done anything more then I got this a day or two later. Filled out the form and got the email notification today the "order" was processed and should ship tomorrow....0 charge. 0 complaints about that level of customer service!
In actual garage stuff....fixed this yesterday....Dad life I guess:
And Pappa finished up the "dress up wardrobe" so to speak...here is little miss showing how high she can reach so we can figure out where the hanger bar should go. She's actually standing on the back side of it, after this it got a back on the right hand side where the shelves are....someone is supposed to paint it...I was clear that I wasn't intending for that person to be me....not sure I said it loud enough for my wife to hear
I said I'd draw up and print a couple of hangers for the cross bar...cause why not? That and donating the shop space, materials and labor to move it around are my contributions so far.....not a bad way to go!
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This house is 18 years old and plumbed in all copper with decent water and a softener so I'm hopefully I've long since sold it before I have to worry about pipes failing from corrosion and wear. It's also got a fully finished basement so there is nothing easy about fixing a plumbing leak that isn't in that mechanical room or a vanity/sink base. Re-piping was something I was starting to wonder about on the Chicago house before we sold it as it was coming up on 50 years old. Though the neighbors next door had a pipe/joint fail on a 10 year old house that due to where it was and how long it took for it to be visible caused at least $200k in damage and forced them to move out for 6 months so I should probably think about it from more than just an age standpoint
madison069
Well-known member
Water leaks are unpredictable, so most we can do is periodically inspect the lines and repair any that looks questionable.
I've been thinking of flushing my water heater since it's never been flushed in the past 7 years. Yes, I know, supposed to be flushed yearly. But I never seen anyone flush them when growing up and never done it either till I replaced the tank that's usually 15+ years old. The current water heater is 13 years old, so I worry that if I flush it, it's just going to start leaking. Oh, and anode rods, I've never seen one replaced in person!! But I've noticed my hot water has a light smell of sulfur and that's probably due to a bad anode and no flushing.
I had an issue with my robot vacuum, but it's a Roborock and it wasn't due to software update I don't think. But it lost connectivity to the internet. After 4 failed attempts, I was finally able to get it to connect to the internet again. Now it does its job so I'll keep it around for a while longer.
I've been thinking of flushing my water heater since it's never been flushed in the past 7 years. Yes, I know, supposed to be flushed yearly. But I never seen anyone flush them when growing up and never done it either till I replaced the tank that's usually 15+ years old. The current water heater is 13 years old, so I worry that if I flush it, it's just going to start leaking. Oh, and anode rods, I've never seen one replaced in person!! But I've noticed my hot water has a light smell of sulfur and that's probably due to a bad anode and no flushing.
I had an issue with my robot vacuum, but it's a Roborock and it wasn't due to software update I don't think. But it lost connectivity to the internet. After 4 failed attempts, I was finally able to get it to connect to the internet again. Now it does its job so I'll keep it around for a while longer.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Logan, I am too old to pay extra for "high efficiency" stuff. We don't own an efficient vehicle (the '87 Corvette gets the best mileage) because I fear I will fall asleep at the wheel. In 2010 I replaced a 22 year old 50-gallon Rheem electric water heater with a GE Geospring hybrid water heater for $1,500. Over the course of its five years in our home we became close friends with the GE repairman. After replacing everything in the heat exchanger in the first three years, a new failure code popped up and GE decided it was not their problem and I ran it as a plain electric hot water heater for its last two years. When a connection in the heat exchanger started to leak, I ripped the Geospring out and replaced it with a $450 Rheem electric water heater in 2015 and restored the plumbing to it's original and simpler setup. Knowing this new water heater would not last long, I put copper unions on the hot and cold lines. The Rheem crapped out in seven years, one year past it's 6-year warranty. I wasn't surprised and bought the same unit again for another $520 in 2022. It took me 45 minutes to install the new one and a scapper took the old one away five minutes after I wheeled it to the end of the driveway.
If your house was built before 1986, the copper fittings and pipes were probably joined with lead solder. Plumbers were used to working with it and rarely screwed up a sweated joint. After 1986 the plumbers were required (and may have complied) to use lead-free solder. If you don't carefully clean the copper pipe ends and fittings or don't heat them enough, they are likely to leak sooner than an old-fashioned lead solder joint. Members of my generation and some younger folks have obviously been exposed to huge amounts of lead. Maybe our great-grandchildren will be smarter because their plumbing is lead free.
If your house was built before 1986, the copper fittings and pipes were probably joined with lead solder. Plumbers were used to working with it and rarely screwed up a sweated joint. After 1986 the plumbers were required (and may have complied) to use lead-free solder. If you don't carefully clean the copper pipe ends and fittings or don't heat them enough, they are likely to leak sooner than an old-fashioned lead solder joint. Members of my generation and some younger folks have obviously been exposed to huge amounts of lead. Maybe our great-grandchildren will be smarter because their plumbing is lead free.
gearhead1960
ALLIANCE MEMBER
@Bob Heine lead free or not, my kids were always smarter than me....
I'd heard complaints from some plumbers before about how much more work it was soldering the current stuff...I just figured it was bellyaching but never connected it with it being lead free. I got a very rough start on soldering pipe on the farm....hog building water lines. Did some in college with new pipe, new fittings...took me a bit to realize why it was working like $h!t....I didn't bother to clean it! Had never worked with everything brand new and clean before...after that liberal cleaning wasn't skipped!
I was out of actual emory cloth..so the first official sandpaper test of the Serious Grit vs Mirka Gold after being cut up into strips....Mirka won. It had softer backing and easier to make the tighter curves than the stiffer Serious Grit stuff.
Back to water heater replacement...next morning it looked like this dripping down the new expansion tank....I said a few magic words as I grabbed the ladder
Fortunately it was just the ball valve seeping out at the packing nut. I actually didn't even have to tighten it up, just wiped it off and checked it again that night and it was dry and still is so far...so successful replacement so far. Picked up a pair of leak detectors for an audible alarm if moisture collects in the pan, still have to get batteries in it and mounted onto the heater
Not out of work though...this work showed up at the door and still needs done
Oil and filters for both rides, plus rear brake pads and ****** filter for the truck that's hitting 100k miles.
Random pic of one of the kids....odd snack habits. Olives and a piece of a quesadilla...that would be his mothers eating habits!
And little project in between finishing the drill press...and before another big one may show up:
Father in law was cutting some lumber and it highlighted that I need to get a short outfeed table on the saw permanently...so this is a roughly 11" or so deep extension to help until they get big enough to need rolling stands or the height adjustable table
This isn't the final setup...but will be using 3/8" bolts across the angle iron on the backside of the saw, plus (2) pieces of unistrut(one piece painted white in pic below) to attach the top. The bolts will let me fine tune the height adjustment to get it planar with the cast iron. Once I get attachment all figured out and exact placement will put in the grooves for the miter slots
Hoping to go look at a dust collector this weekend that also has what appears to be Nordfab quick flange metal ductwork...that project may be incoming.....the tablesaw really needs to get hooked up to something
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Olives and a dilla. That's a great snack, something my kids would eat too.
My girls will eat black olives with a fork right out of the can/jar.
My son.....same except it's peanut butter.
My girls will eat black olives with a fork right out of the can/jar.
My son.....same except it's peanut butter.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Logan, I like cutting threads in wood. Replaced the galvanized pipe handle on the wood vise to preserve the web between my thumb and forefinger. No luck tapping a wood cap but 1/2" PVC cap does the job.
Wife decided it didn't need to be painted(aka she didn't want to paint it)....so in from the garage it came
Kids love it so far and it has gotten some toys off the ground, plus it's out of the garage so a win.
Did get the extension mostly in...
Need to put 1 more threaded hole in on the end closest to the wall to pull it down as its a bit proud of the cast right now...hence the Jorgy clamp that's there. Then clearance groove for the miter slot
Great usage of it! I learned it from my boss in the shop I worked at in college. We made a lot of research stuff for grad students and many were clueless in the dark arts of making anything(which made the fact it was an engineering dept depressing). Threaded holes in wood look sharp and were generally easier then metal inserts for things that weren't getting taken apart a lot or needed the extra strength of metal inserts.
To make them last longer and improve strength, clear CA glue, preferably a thin or runny one is a great trick. After tapping the holes, drop some CA glue on the threads, if using a thin glue it'll run right on down the spiral threads. Repeat until threads are fully coated, then once dry you can chase the threads with the tap to clean up any rougher spots that got glued into place. I used Starbond's thin glue for all of these but neglected to get a picture
Kids love it so far and it has gotten some toys off the ground, plus it's out of the garage so a win.
Did get the extension mostly in...
Need to put 1 more threaded hole in on the end closest to the wall to pull it down as its a bit proud of the cast right now...hence the Jorgy clamp that's there. Then clearance groove for the miter slot
Logan, I like cutting threads in wood. Replaced the galvanized pipe handle on the wood vise to preserve the web between my thumb and forefinger. No luck tapping a wood cap but 1/2" PVC cap does the job.
Great usage of it! I learned it from my boss in the shop I worked at in college. We made a lot of research stuff for grad students and many were clueless in the dark arts of making anything(which made the fact it was an engineering dept depressing). Threaded holes in wood look sharp and were generally easier then metal inserts for things that weren't getting taken apart a lot or needed the extra strength of metal inserts.
To make them last longer and improve strength, clear CA glue, preferably a thin or runny one is a great trick. After tapping the holes, drop some CA glue on the threads, if using a thin glue it'll run right on down the spiral threads. Repeat until threads are fully coated, then once dry you can chase the threads with the tap to clean up any rougher spots that got glued into place. I used Starbond's thin glue for all of these but neglected to get a picture
nicholam77
Well-known member
Kid closet and SawStop extension table came out great!
Thanks sir and appreciate you and everyone else continuing to follow along!
Ok playing a bit of catch up as I've made a bit of progress....well 1 step forward, 2 steps back
The height adjustable drafting desk turned mobile workstation is getting used more and I'm getting increasingly annoyed with having to plug it in for quick height adjustments....so I bought a mobile Power station/big battery pack with a 600w peak load thinking "it's just a little motor...should be under that".....
Narrator voiceover: It wasn't....
But it was on sale on the fake Prime day 2.0 for a lower then usual price, so gave it a shot
And it was tripping out instantly. Didn't feel like bastardizing a power cord to cut the insulation to separate out hot and neutral, so bought the Klein line splitter to be able to put a clamp meter on a standard 120v power cord and measure amperage:
And it came back with this:
Now before we say wtf...the line splitter increased the measured amperage 10x as it does 10 loops of the wire in that molded case to allow more accurate readings on what are generally pretty low loads and often being read by lower end meters with less resolution. So that's actually saying it was pulling 3.4 amps and this was a peak reading at start but it was stable...at least at the resolution this meter can show, I expect if it was capable of logging outputs and graphing it we'd see a bigger inrush starting current.
Now that we have a rough idea of amperage, we can more accurately determine power requirement(watts) via
Power(Watts) = Volts(V) x Amps(A)
Watts = 120v x 3.4 amps
Watts = 408
Hum....so my 300 rated/600 peak watt juice pack isn't big enough...well hell....generate amazon return label and kick that sucker back!
Before jumping to the next solution...I grabbed an old battery backup/UPS for some computers that I wasn't using and charged it up and it would run the motor for a 1/2 second or so before it would fault out....so that thought was shot down as also insufficient.
Now that I know I need to get something more along the lines of at least 600 watts rated/1200 peak if I figure a 2x to 3x inrush current...I find out that these premade get very pricey....so looks like a change of plan and will move from a premade solution to something more in the spirit of GJ and a roughly 1,100 watt rated/2k watt peak inverter, fed off a deep cycle battery and a trickle charger will be in the future.
Think I have found the inverter to use, any recommendations for small trickle chargers would be wonderful....my default here would be a Noco Genius1 or Genius2D as I have had great success with their mobile jump packs.
While I'm soliciting spending of money....any recommendations for a clamp meter/current meter for sub $100 with bluetooth linked graphic capabilities that could better show inrush current would be cool as well. This meter I got from my grandpa which makes it likely at least 30 years old and works for what it does, but better ability to see inrush spikes would be nice...but not critical for what I'm generally doing. But I'm always nagged for christmas/bday gift ideas so it'd go on that list most likely
And speaking of spending money...for all the real and posing(like me) wood slayers out and about....Lee Valley catalog is back! 600 digital pages of goodies....only 100 ish mb to download and put on your phone
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Logan, I'll be going to a TAA meeting and introducing myself: "Hi, I'm Bob and I'm a Tool Addict. Today I didn't click on a link to a Tool **** site. How many times do I have to do that to get a token?"
That would make me(and many others here) the guy standing outside the meeting site offering 20% off coupons and free 10mm sockets to all the addicts walking in....
Lee Valley also has great gardening tools....less useful for those of use staring down snow....but might have something you don't have and could use!
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
A good rule of thumb is starting current is 7x running current. The motor has to overcome being stopped, then accelerate up to speed. Picture that exponential curve and you’ll see why this isn’t working. My advice is to find a way to power it from a receptacle.
As far as an ammeter that will properly capture the inrush characteristic, I haven’t looked at Bluetooth tidbits. The equipment I use for stuff like this is an easy five figure purchase and not what you’re looking for.
What I use personally is a clamp on attached to a Fluke 289 and use the min/max feature on the sub-meter.
As far as an ammeter that will properly capture the inrush characteristic, I haven’t looked at Bluetooth tidbits. The equipment I use for stuff like this is an easy five figure purchase and not what you’re looking for.
What I use personally is a clamp on attached to a Fluke 289 and use the min/max feature on the sub-meter.
Damn...7x! I knew it was 3 to 4x but didn't realize it was that high...thanks for offering your insight! Will have to do some figuring on what that would mean for an inverter and battery
And yeah....we have some of the 5 figure fluke tools at work and the remote logging capabilities for predicting failures...sweet tools for sure!
nicholam77
Well-known member
And speaking of spending money...for all the real and posing(like me) wood slayers out and about....Lee Valley catalog is back! 600 digital pages of goodies....only 100 ish mb to download and put on your phone
Logan you know I don't have time for this right now!!
But also thank you. I do enjoy looking at them.
Logan you know I don't have time for this right now!!
But also thank you. I do enjoy looking at them.
Consider it your reward for finishing the struts!
Quick photo updates...some garage related...some kinda sorta(probably not)
One of the Amazon deal threads had these Bessey clamps up for stupid cheap money....they showed up....definitely should've gotten more! Now to figure out where to hang them!
Speaking of storage for things...printed this to hold the resaw fence piece for the bandsaw....lettering looks a bit like poo but it'll work and remind me to put it away when it's out so I don't see it
Speaking of kids....commented in the Everything 3D printed thread about some Halloween handout printed train whistles...first 18 piece print got done a couple hours ago:
And while talking about kids.....had a bunch in the backyard this weekend for daughters 5th birthday party. Tried to do pretty low key and just neighborhood friends and some close family...generally successful but my version of low key and wife's aren't exactly the same
Mine didn't involve a pinata to hit or party bags or unicorn masks or twirly streamers...but it all worked out and the kids had a great time. We are extremely fortunate with having some great neighbors
As the backup plan if the weather didn't cooperate was in our basement and that blow up bounce house in the background moves inside(which is where it normally is) I justified getting the TV wall mounted, wires hidden etc. This was also really started by the sound system the wife won...but as usual scope "expanded"
Still have clean up down at the outlets and an eventual media/console table of some sort to build here....but no idea what she wants...so for now this will work after I clean up those wires....oh yeah and make a new Coax cable and fish coax back to the TV for the 3 or 4 times a year we watch live TV via the antenna on this TV.
While on the topic of screens...walked out the front door today and briefly got excited....
Till I remembered no way did someone buy me these and not tell me and saw they were at the wrong address. So I delivered them to hear "oh we already filed a claim that it was lost"....they probably could've seen them on my porch had they looked out theirs....oh well they're where they belong
Back focused on garage topics....things ongoing and being worked on:
- Finding suitable switch for input power disconnect for drill press project
- Attempt to make mobile drafting table cordless via inverter and battery concept
- Dust collector progress....slow going but made a bit of progress over the weekend that wasn't documented in pictures
- Train whistle manufacturing via robot printers
- Getting time to do oil changes and some other overdue too long overdue work on the 2 car fleet
- Getting the filament dryer @MadeByMiller "made me" buy setup in a better home then under a desk!
- Some other things I'm forgetting....
Thanks again for joining on the journey!
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MadeByMiller
Well-known member
Ha! My dryer is sitting underneath the printer bench in my office, so are you telling me that's unacceptable??
If it ain't broke don't fix it!
This one isn't going to be very easy to print from the dryer if I so choose...and getting in and out is kinda of a pain....there is a much better spot right next to the printer...but it currently is occupied by things my wife controls so I must cautiously find new (and better) homes for those items....the political aspect is far more challenging than the functional part here.
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Snuck in some garage time before work as daycare drop off was unusually calm and easy this am....looks like everything fits, wiring the terminals on the bottom side of the rotary will be a bit tight but looks feasible
That should be the last component I need. Still have to wire the 12v power supply for the LED buttons/spindle speed and another light not shown here and that may test the capacity of the vfd box...but it's getting closer. Also still have to design and fab(likely print) the mount for the sensor for the spindle speed
That should be the last component I need. Still have to wire the 12v power supply for the LED buttons/spindle speed and another light not shown here and that may test the capacity of the vfd box...but it's getting closer. Also still have to design and fab(likely print) the mount for the sensor for the spindle speed
nicholam77
Well-known member
That is looking nice and clean, Logan.
I haven't changed the speed on mine (belts) since I got it. One speed for everything!
I haven't changed the speed on mine (belts) since I got it. One speed for everything!
