ajohno
Well-known member
Enough with the XR8. Wishing I had one. Looks nice.
Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage
- Thread starter D.F.B
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
littlebean
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2018
- Messages
- 777
well, it finally happened - your posts got stuck in my head and I found myself volunteering to clean the wheels on my sons car and even helped clean the paint, I knew it was bad when I got him to break out his new glass cleaning cloth so I could do the insides of the windows 
Obviously none of this was to the level and standard you achieve but baby steps
Obviously none of this was to the level and standard you achieve but baby steps
Well done you!!well, it finally happened - your posts got stuck in my head and I found myself volunteering to clean the wheels on my sons car and even helped clean the paint, I knew it was bad when I got him to break out his new glass cleaning cloth so I could do the insides of the windows
Obviously none of this was to the level and standard you achieve but baby steps
Be careful though, its a slippery slope....................................
ajohno
Well-known member
What model Ego blower is that? Does it do a good job drying the car?
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Been looking at the EGO 765. Is that it? If so how do you like it for drying the car?
Tactile
Well-known member
I missed Matt's reasons for going with the EGO. Can you break down his (and your) reasoning DFB? A lot of new tools have been released since he starting pushing the product and I wonder if he would of went with it after he got his deal with Milwaukee?
If I had a suburban block to maintain, I could justify going with the product so I could also get access (in regards to EGO battery infrastructure) to their excellent range of garden equipment. But as I stand now with Bosch gear (they have a new blower) I'm not sure if I could justify going with a new system.
If I had a suburban block to maintain, I could justify going with the product so I could also get access (in regards to EGO battery infrastructure) to their excellent range of garden equipment. But as I stand now with Bosch gear (they have a new blower) I'm not sure if I could justify going with a new system.
Every time I have leave, there is a list of things I HAVE to do and things I WANT to do. Well, today I ticked off everything on that list, the last two being in the HAVE to do camp, so even more satisfying. So, I'm now at the tinkering stage.
First of cab off the rank, a quick oil change and spark plug change on the Atom edger. I love this little Honda engine, its runs so nicely, uses very little fuel and burns no oil. The 12-month-old oil came out golden, the plug looked beautiful. I also find there is a higher level of precision with the way parts fit together compared to the Briggs and Krohler stuff.
I also bit the bullet and decided to change the XR6's battery. The date scribe on the old battery was from 2013, it tested ok for voltage but was down on CCA. It was boarder line, so I just replaced it, ten years on a battery is good enough for me.
The same guy who replaced the XR8's battery a few months ago worked on the XR6 today, he remembered me, or more to the point, remembered the spotless car..........."I don't want to touch it". That's the best compliment someone can give me, and it also generally means they know it's not just another Corolla or Thailux, that they will take extra care. Again, new battery was $200 cash, drive in, drive out.
And am I concerned about having a GM battery in my Ford? No, because it means I have finally gotten rid of that pink eyesore the old battery presented. Why they chose that colour is beyond me...................
Great battery though, it went near 11 years, and probably would have went further if I didn't jump early.
Last little task, cleaning up the old brake dust shields I removed back in October from the XR6. I sand, clean and ready for a coat of paint. This is before painting, the flat black is not to my liking, so the second coat I will go to satin black.
Will they go back on the car? Who knows, I'll wrap them up and store them away, ready to refit in another 15 years.
First of cab off the rank, a quick oil change and spark plug change on the Atom edger. I love this little Honda engine, its runs so nicely, uses very little fuel and burns no oil. The 12-month-old oil came out golden, the plug looked beautiful. I also find there is a higher level of precision with the way parts fit together compared to the Briggs and Krohler stuff.
I also bit the bullet and decided to change the XR6's battery. The date scribe on the old battery was from 2013, it tested ok for voltage but was down on CCA. It was boarder line, so I just replaced it, ten years on a battery is good enough for me.
The same guy who replaced the XR8's battery a few months ago worked on the XR6 today, he remembered me, or more to the point, remembered the spotless car..........."I don't want to touch it". That's the best compliment someone can give me, and it also generally means they know it's not just another Corolla or Thailux, that they will take extra care. Again, new battery was $200 cash, drive in, drive out.
And am I concerned about having a GM battery in my Ford? No, because it means I have finally gotten rid of that pink eyesore the old battery presented. Why they chose that colour is beyond me...................
Great battery though, it went near 11 years, and probably would have went further if I didn't jump early.
Last little task, cleaning up the old brake dust shields I removed back in October from the XR6. I sand, clean and ready for a coat of paint. This is before painting, the flat black is not to my liking, so the second coat I will go to satin black.
Will they go back on the car? Who knows, I'll wrap them up and store them away, ready to refit in another 15 years.
Ok, there is a bit to unpack here. The short answer is, yes, the EGO 765 is excellent for drying your car with.
I started drying cars with a blower a long time ago, using a little handheld Makita Blower. With a 5.0 ah battery, it worked surprisingly well, especially door jambs. It just took too long. I then progressed to a Stihl BGA 56, which I bought for my gardening business, but its ****, be that for leaves or car drying. Poor ergonomics, low output, weak battery.
I then bought a Big Boi Pro dual motor. Let's be clear, this is the most efficient way to air dry a car, not just for the air volume, but because of the way the nozzle focuses the air flow to "drive" water off the car. I don't buy into the whole "filtered air" argument that this sort of machine offers, but the heated element certainly helps in winter, both for drying but also keeping your hands warm.
I find that this unit is more thorough than a leaf blower, the hose and nozzle make it easier to deal with door jambs, while being more effective on intricate grills and wheels, and also better at driving water out of shut lines and panel gaps.
However, while effective and worthwhile having, you do need to get it out, plug it in, untangle and manage the hose as you move around the car, then pack it all up again. For that reason, I wanted something more convenient for when precision wasn't needed or time was limited..................................
Having seen the EGO line of blowers being used by OG for a while, it seemed the research and vetting had been done for me. The only sticking point being which of the various models to go for.
Starting with the 530, I dismissed this because of its base model statis. I actually ended up buying one for my Dad for yard work, only to confirm my suspicion. The 530 doesn't have a variable throttle, and the output is so lean that you basically have it locked in turbo mode to get anything done. It also has the most unusual and frustrating throttle delay, taking far too long to engage the motor after trigger is pulled, it actually makes it hard to use smoothly.
The next up was the 580, which is Matt's preferred model, but that has been discontinued. The 615 and 650 I dismissed because of comments about it being ultra shrill in action, more so than the 580 and 765. In the end, the choice was simple, the LB 765..................
This was my first EGO purchase, so I went with the kit which included a Rapid Charger and two 5.0 ah batteries. Put it this way, the combined total of all of those items when bought separately is significantly higher than buying in kit form. In which case, sometimes you are better off just buying the kit and shelving the extra chargers.
Attempting to dry the car with that long tube was very cumbersome, you really need the stubby nozzle for car drying. These are sold in a few different places, some are simple 3D printed items, some are injection molded and feature quick release tabs. The EGO AST2000 is the one to go for, the same price or less than a 3D printed items, but with the ability to remove and swap much easier.
3D Printed -
Stubby nozzle co - Etsy
Check out our stubby nozzle co selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops.
www.etsy.com
Injection Molded -
ApexAire EGO Blower Stubby Nozzle
The ApexAire EGO Blower Stubby Nozzle has been a cool accessory that I've added to my car drying process. It shortens the overall length of the original equipment (OE) blower tube by over eight inches. The tapered tip allows for air velocity and flow to blow out detailed areas. It's functional...
www.obsessedgarage.com
EGO Handheld Blower Short Tube Attachment
The EGO Handheld Blower Short Tube Attachment is a compact, 19cm tube that quickly and easily attaches to EGO POWER+ blowers for improved control.
egopowerplus.com.au
When I got my EGO, the only viable option was the 3D printed versions, the Apex Air unit had a lot of initial fitment and production capacity problems, they have been left behind now that EGO are making their own.
I have only just swapped out the 3D printed version, as mentioned, its very difficult to remove once installed, which means it was somewhat compromised when using to blow out the garage or using it for yardwork.................although I rarely use it for that.
Performance? As mentioned, you won't achieve the ultimate precision with a leaf blower, but the EGO 765 is not far behind. Then consider the lack of hoses and cords or needing to drag all of that around the car with you, a battery powered leaf blower is far more convenient. Also consider that the LB 765 is the most powerful handheld blower on the market, even the most powerful gas units don't come close................
Gas -
Stihl BG 56 - 412 CFM
Stihl BG 86 - 440 CFM
Battery -
Stihl BGA 56 - 365 CFM
Stihl BGA 86 - 494 CFM
EGO LB 650 - 470 CFM, 650 CFM with turbo mode
EGO LB 765 - 580 CFM, 765 CFM with turbo mode
The key with using any form of air to dry a car is to have your paint well protected so that water shows no resistance on the surface. Be that a wax, sealant, spray sealant or ceramic coating. Any remaining water drops I follow up with using a towel.
Battery wise, I use about half to three quarters of a 5.0 ah battery on most cars. That means the 2.5 ah battery is doable, and noticeably lighter as well. I would still recommend the 5.0 ah so that you don't get that slight drop off in performance as the battery approaches empty.
Addressing why Matt went with EGO, from memory it was the superiority of the battery technology. Some of the higher-powered blowers from general tool manufacturers (Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee ect) require the fitment of two batteries, the EGO stuff is one singular high-capacity battery. Then there is the performance figures outlined above.
Personally, I have not really been locked into any one battery ecosystem, I've just bought the tool I wanted at the time. I have battery and chargers for Makita (18-volt), Milwaukee (M12 and M18), EGO, Stihl (12V and 36V), ShineMate (18V), Rupes (10.8V), Briggs & Stratton (18V) and Solo (10.8V).
Yes, I know, that's a lot! But as I said, I tend to buy the tool that interests me. For example, the EGO range certainly has the battery and charging tech nailed. They also make the best blowers, the edgers are great, I have the misting fan and power inverter. But I don't like their chainsaws (stupid integration of the battery that creates a poor balance, see below), nor do I like their lawn mowers.
For a battery chainsaw, Stihl have the best placement of the battery, which in turn keeps the unit balanced like a gas-powered alternative.
For a mower, I lean toward the options that started life as a gas-powered mower. For me, I would be looking at the Victa or Masport mowers as these don't compromise mowing performance in the name of space-ship styling.
I know, that was a long post, but it's a culmination of extensive research and passion. Short answer, yes, the EGO is an excellent choice for drying a car. Secondly, don't box yourself into a battery eco system, only to end up with compromised performance on certain tools.
ajohno
Well-known member
Thanks for the detailed reply. Now I better get one.
The 765 is sold in two ways in Australia, skin or kit.
Skin -
Sydney Tools
sydneytools.com.au
Kit (Tool, Rapid Charger & 2 5.0ah batteries) -
Sydney Tools
sydneytools.com.au
EGO 56V 2 x 5.0Ah Blower Kit LB7654E-2
Includes 1 x EGO 56V Blower Skin LB7650E 1 x EGO 56V 5.0Ah POWER+ Hour Battery w. Fuel Gauge BA2800T 1 x EGO 56V Rapid Charger CH5500E EGO 56V Blower Skin LB7650E World's most Powerful Blower! Turbo Button delivers a staggering 1300m³/h Variable-speed control dial delivers 440-985m³/h...
www.totaltools.com.au
I had to order mine online because neither of the above stores stock the 765.......................plenty of the 530 or 650 though.
ajohno
Well-known member
Just found the same kit from DUEZGAEL.com
That's for US customers though isn't it?
ajohno
Well-known member
No he is in Sydney.
Ah sorry, I spotted the .com and assumed it was in the US. Decent saving on RRP!
Tactile
Well-known member
All the Bosch stuff is on the money!
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
I really appreciate the detailed post on your experience with various blowers. I have used the gas Stihl BG55 as it is just what I have for leaves and it definitely helps with door jams, grills, and the wheels but isn't much use anywhere else thus the interest in the EGO 765.Ok, there is a bit to unpack here. The short answer is, yes, the EGO 765 is excellent for drying your car with.
I started drying cars with a blower a long time ago, using a little handheld Makita Blower. With a 5.0 ah battery, it worked surprisingly well, especially door jambs. It just took too long. I then progressed to a Stihl BGA 56, which I bought for my gardening business, but its ****, be that for leaves or car drying. Poor ergonomics, low output, weak battery.
I then bought a Big Boi Pro dual motor. Let's be clear, this is the most efficient way to air dry a car, not just for the air volume, but because of the way the nozzle focuses the air flow to "drive" water off the car. I don't buy into the whole "filtered air" argument that this sort of machine offers, but the heated element certainly helps in winter, both for drying but also keeping your hands warm.
I find that this unit is more thorough than a leaf blower, the hose and nozzle make it easier to deal with door jambs, while being more effective on intricate grills and wheels, and also better at driving water out of shut lines and panel gaps.
However, while effective and worthwhile having, you do need to get it out, plug it in, untangle and manage the hose as you move around the car, then pack it all up again. For that reason, I wanted something more convenient for when precision wasn't needed or time was limited..................................
Having seen the EGO line of blowers being used by OG for a while, it seemed the research and vetting had been done for me. The only sticking point being which of the various models to go for.
Starting with the 530, I dismissed this because of its base model statis. I actually ended up buying one for my Dad for yard work, only to confirm my suspicion. The 530 doesn't have a variable throttle, and the output is so lean that you basically have it locked in turbo mode to get anything done. It also has the most unusual and frustrating throttle delay, taking far too long to engage the motor after trigger is pulled, it actually makes it hard to use smoothly.
The next up was the 580, which is Matt's preferred model, but that has been discontinued. The 615 and 650 I dismissed because of comments about it being ultra shrill in action, more so than the 580 and 765. In the end, the choice was simple, the LB 765..................
This was my first EGO purchase, so I went with the kit which included a Rapid Charger and two 5.0 ah batteries. Put it this way, the combined total of all of those items when bought separately is significantly higher than buying in kit form. In which case, sometimes you are better off just buying the kit and shelving the extra chargers.
Attempting to dry the car with that long tube was very cumbersome, you really need the stubby nozzle for car drying. These are sold in a few different places, some are simple 3D printed items, some are injection molded and feature quick release tabs. The EGO AST2000 is the one to go for, the same price or less than a 3D printed items, but with the ability to remove and swap much easier.
3D Printed -
Stubby nozzle co - Etsy
Check out our stubby nozzle co selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops.
Injection Molded -
ApexAire EGO Blower Stubby Nozzle
The ApexAire EGO Blower Stubby Nozzle has been a cool accessory that I've added to my car drying process. It shortens the overall length of the original equipment (OE) blower tube by over eight inches. The tapered tip allows for air velocity and flow to blow out detailed areas. It's functional...EGO Handheld Blower Short Tube Attachment
The EGO Handheld Blower Short Tube Attachment is a compact, 19cm tube that quickly and easily attaches to EGO POWER+ blowers for improved control.
When I got my EGO, the only viable option was the 3D printed versions, the Apex Air unit had a lot of initial fitment and production capacity problems, they have been left behind now that EGO are making their own.
I have only just swapped out the 3D printed version, as mentioned, its very difficult to remove once installed, which means it was somewhat compromised when using to blow out the garage or using it for yardwork.................although I rarely use it for that.
Performance? As mentioned, you won't achieve the ultimate precision with a leaf blower, but the EGO 765 is not far behind. Then consider the lack of hoses and cords or needing to drag all of that around the car with you, a battery powered leaf blower is far more convenient. Also consider that the LB 765 is the most powerful handheld blower on the market, even the most powerful gas units don't come close................
Gas -
Stihl BG 56 - 412 CFM
Stihl BG 86 - 440 CFM
Battery -
Stihl BGA 56 - 365 CFM
Stihl BGA 86 - 494 CFM
EGO LB 650 - 470 CFM, 650 CFM with turbo mode
EGO LB 765 - 580 CFM, 765 CFM with turbo mode
The key with using any form of air to dry a car is to have your paint well protected so that water shows no resistance on the surface. Be that a wax, sealant, spray sealant or ceramic coating. Any remaining water drops I follow up with using a towel.
Battery wise, I use about half to three quarters of a 5.0 ah battery on most cars. That means the 2.5 ah battery is doable, and noticeably lighter as well. I would still recommend the 5.0 ah so that you don't get that slight drop off in performance as the battery approaches empty.
Addressing why Matt went with EGO, from memory it was the superiority of the battery technology. Some of the higher-powered blowers from general tool manufacturers (Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee ect) require the fitment of two batteries, the EGO stuff is one singular high-capacity battery. Then there is the performance figures outlined above.
Personally, I have not really been locked into any one battery ecosystem, I've just bought the tool I wanted at the time. I have battery and chargers for Makita (18-volt), Milwaukee (M12 and M18), EGO, Stihl (12V and 36V), ShineMate (18V), Rupes (10.8V), Briggs & Stratton (18V) and Solo (10.8V).
Yes, I know, that's a lot! But as I said, I tend to buy the tool that interests me. For example, the EGO range certainly has the battery and charging tech nailed. They also make the best blowers, the edgers are great, I have the misting fan and power inverter. But I don't like their chainsaws (stupid integration of the battery that creates a poor balance, see below), nor do I like their lawn mowers.
For a battery chainsaw, Stihl have the best placement of the battery, which in turn keeps the unit balanced like a gas-powered alternative.
For a mower, I lean toward the options that started life as a gas-powered mower. For me, I would be looking at the Victa or Masport mowers as these don't compromise mowing performance in the name of space-ship styling.
I know, that was a long post, but it's a culmination of extensive research and passion. Short answer, yes, the EGO is an excellent choice for drying a car. Secondly, don't box yourself into a battery eco system, only to end up with compromised performance on certain tools.
There are still a few gas blowers that are more powerful but they are all backpack blowers which is really what I use for actual leaf work anymore.
The 765 sole job would be cars and blowing out the garage and as you found it seems to be the best and most convenient option out there. Now just to wait for the package deal to go on sale again.
Spent more than hour messing around with this Diva today. Actually, I've spent more than a few hours messing about with this Diva over the last week.....................
When I bought this mower (second hand), it was a strong runner and would rev up quite nicely under load like the VSX/VEX versions of this engine do. Except, for some reason not long after, it had fallen back to about 2800 rpm. Not enough to cause it struggle through taller grass, but with no load, these should be running at about 3300 rpm at full throttle and then spur up to about 4000 rpm when loaded. This week, I finally looked into it further.
First step, I started trying different weight and length carburetor springs. Actually, there are two springs within these G4 carbs, a short and long version, the former is what controls the governed engine speed. Over time, these can lose tension, so sometimes a replacement can sure over or under revving.
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-carburetor-spring-long-type/
This can be accessed two ways, either remove the side cover, or remove via the spring access cap (figure 3 below), which is the easier way to do it as you generally don't have to remove the impulse line. After trying a few different springs with no improvement, I even tried putting a spacer washer between the cap and spring, which lifted the revs but made it erratic and surgy.
I also checked and tried the different settings of the poppet valve (figure 2 above). This was Victa's way of adjusting the carb for different applications, this engine was used on mowers, edgers, slashers, yard vacuums, even as an outboard boat motor. Again, no effect.
I then removed the blade carrier to access the exhaust outlet, thinking it could have been choked up. But it was mostly clear.
I then ordered a used replacement carb, throttle and intake snorkel tube assembly. I have no use for the carb.......... actually, I'm going to teach myself how to rebuild these things with it. What I needed was the replacement hose and larger air filter inlet adaptor unique to the VSX/VEX engine as the original was cracked. The idea being it was leaking and preventing it from running properly.
Typically, to replace the throttle cable and intake snorkel, you need to disassemble the carb to unhook the cable from the carburetor throttle cam, this allows you to remove the tubing from the cable that runs through it. But I didn't want to pull the carb to bits, so I did it the "hard" way by taking the throttle and air cleaner assembly off, unhooked the cable from the lever (which required the removal of the orange plastic t-handle), unhooked the tube from the carb and fed the cable out. I then put replacement back on in reverse order.
I started it up and now we were dealing with about 3100 rpm. I then got cocky and decided to try a different spring to bring it up to the magic 3300 rpm number. In the process, I accidentally removed the white carb cap, no big deal, I cleaned it and easily snapped it back into place. I stared it up and whaaaaaaam! The thing shot to over 4200 rpm..........to much!! I then cycled through the springs and still, it was running too hard.
From here, I also trialed dialing the poppit valve to the slower A position, but it still wanted to take off. Earlier in the piece, I had also checked and blew out the impulse line to no effect, which is another governing element to the carb. So now I'm contending with a leak somewhere, be that the crankcase/starter o-ring or the intake manifold/carb o-ring. Or maybe a stuck decompressor.
I suspect that all along, the white cap was not seated properly and was causing it to under rev. Now I have an over revving engine that just wont settle down. I can run it part throttle no worries and have it sitting nicely at about 3000 to 3200 rpm, but beyond that, I'm frightened it'll throw a rod. I was actually getting this mower fixed up to take to work so we can start scalping a particular section of lawn. But I can't hand this machine over to that particular employee, he'll blow the thing up in no time.
While I love these engines, I have always said they can be Diva's. And so this one has proved. These are incredibly strong and long-lasting engines, the block and cylinder made from cast-iron, but they need all the ducks lined up to run correctly. They also drink lots of fuel and make a lot of noise. But nothing will stop them when the going gets tough.
Here's one that is actually running properly..........................
On the plus side, I did fix the Rover Combat this afternoon, adjusting the throttle cable to properly engage the choke for cold starts. You win some, you lose some................
When I bought this mower (second hand), it was a strong runner and would rev up quite nicely under load like the VSX/VEX versions of this engine do. Except, for some reason not long after, it had fallen back to about 2800 rpm. Not enough to cause it struggle through taller grass, but with no load, these should be running at about 3300 rpm at full throttle and then spur up to about 4000 rpm when loaded. This week, I finally looked into it further.
First step, I started trying different weight and length carburetor springs. Actually, there are two springs within these G4 carbs, a short and long version, the former is what controls the governed engine speed. Over time, these can lose tension, so sometimes a replacement can sure over or under revving.
https://pushmowerrepair.com.au/product/victa-carburetor-spring-long-type/
This can be accessed two ways, either remove the side cover, or remove via the spring access cap (figure 3 below), which is the easier way to do it as you generally don't have to remove the impulse line. After trying a few different springs with no improvement, I even tried putting a spacer washer between the cap and spring, which lifted the revs but made it erratic and surgy.
I also checked and tried the different settings of the poppet valve (figure 2 above). This was Victa's way of adjusting the carb for different applications, this engine was used on mowers, edgers, slashers, yard vacuums, even as an outboard boat motor. Again, no effect.
I then removed the blade carrier to access the exhaust outlet, thinking it could have been choked up. But it was mostly clear.
I then ordered a used replacement carb, throttle and intake snorkel tube assembly. I have no use for the carb.......... actually, I'm going to teach myself how to rebuild these things with it. What I needed was the replacement hose and larger air filter inlet adaptor unique to the VSX/VEX engine as the original was cracked. The idea being it was leaking and preventing it from running properly.
Typically, to replace the throttle cable and intake snorkel, you need to disassemble the carb to unhook the cable from the carburetor throttle cam, this allows you to remove the tubing from the cable that runs through it. But I didn't want to pull the carb to bits, so I did it the "hard" way by taking the throttle and air cleaner assembly off, unhooked the cable from the lever (which required the removal of the orange plastic t-handle), unhooked the tube from the carb and fed the cable out. I then put replacement back on in reverse order.
I started it up and now we were dealing with about 3100 rpm. I then got cocky and decided to try a different spring to bring it up to the magic 3300 rpm number. In the process, I accidentally removed the white carb cap, no big deal, I cleaned it and easily snapped it back into place. I stared it up and whaaaaaaam! The thing shot to over 4200 rpm..........to much!! I then cycled through the springs and still, it was running too hard.
From here, I also trialed dialing the poppit valve to the slower A position, but it still wanted to take off. Earlier in the piece, I had also checked and blew out the impulse line to no effect, which is another governing element to the carb. So now I'm contending with a leak somewhere, be that the crankcase/starter o-ring or the intake manifold/carb o-ring. Or maybe a stuck decompressor.
I suspect that all along, the white cap was not seated properly and was causing it to under rev. Now I have an over revving engine that just wont settle down. I can run it part throttle no worries and have it sitting nicely at about 3000 to 3200 rpm, but beyond that, I'm frightened it'll throw a rod. I was actually getting this mower fixed up to take to work so we can start scalping a particular section of lawn. But I can't hand this machine over to that particular employee, he'll blow the thing up in no time.
While I love these engines, I have always said they can be Diva's. And so this one has proved. These are incredibly strong and long-lasting engines, the block and cylinder made from cast-iron, but they need all the ducks lined up to run correctly. They also drink lots of fuel and make a lot of noise. But nothing will stop them when the going gets tough.
Here's one that is actually running properly..........................
On the plus side, I did fix the Rover Combat this afternoon, adjusting the throttle cable to properly engage the choke for cold starts. You win some, you lose some................
Car wise, it was take two at getting the XR6 back into to storage for a few weeks.
The wheels were given a quick wash with soapy water (3D Pink), then a rinse-less wash using Absolute and "Clean Maker" for the drying aid.
This is why I love Sensation, in the sun it glows!
After a trip to the dreaded green shed for a can of satin black paint, I applied the second coat on the old dust shields. The flat paint actually looked quite nice after drying.
After the second coat has cured, I'll wrap and store them in bubble wrap.
The wheels were given a quick wash with soapy water (3D Pink), then a rinse-less wash using Absolute and "Clean Maker" for the drying aid.
This is why I love Sensation, in the sun it glows!
After a trip to the dreaded green shed for a can of satin black paint, I applied the second coat on the old dust shields. The flat paint actually looked quite nice after drying.
After the second coat has cured, I'll wrap and store them in bubble wrap.
The XR8's turn today.......................
I'm absolutely in love with these brushes.................
detailingshed.com.au
I wish I had discovered this brush when I was dealing with the Mustang's OE fit wheels, this would have made short work of the multitude of spokes on those wheels. Although, this style of brush didn't exist back then. Compared to a boars hair brush that is traditionally used on wheels, this style of synthetic bristle brush is ultra soft and gentle. The only thing this brush doesn't do compared to the TRC Ultra Wheel Mitt that I have been using for a while now is reach behind the back of the spokes.
Even covered in a layer of foam, in this case the excellent Opti-Coat M-Wash, you can still see the bonnet bulge rising above the rest of the bodywork.
Today I tried something different with the drying by using P&S Absolute rinse-less wash mixed at 64:1. I've been having streaking issues with this car, the hood in particular. Years of using a variety of different spray sealants and quick detailers has finally caught up with me.
Absolute is one of the slickest of it's type, but doesn't contain a wax or Si02 element in its formulation. While it didn't feel as slick afterwards compared to say Bread Maker or Paint Gloss, it DIDN'T streak or ghost. I'm going to mess around with this a bit using different rinse-less products to see if I can find a sweet spot regarding slickness and gloss, without the streaking.
With today the first 40-degree (104 f) day of the summer so far, it was getting a too toasty for me, so after dealing with the XR8 and putting it back to bed for a while, I got the Mustang out for a run to the toy store. I had intentions of buying the Milwaukee impact gun I had been eyeing for over a year now with some Christmas gift cards, but annoyingly, they were out of stock. In fact, they only had two of the multitude of M18 impact skins Milwaukee offer on the shelf. How is that a thing these days?
Anyway, walking out empty handed and an empty wallet, I ordered the one I wanted and paid in advance, I decided to take an extended burn in the Mustang.
This such a riot of a car to drive, all snorty and gruff when you want to make some noise, but it's also a great high-speed tourer. While I love revving that engine out and drooling over the luscious induction note, it's also lovely to settle back, select 6th gear and relax while looking out over that long, pumped hood.
I'm absolutely in love with these brushes.................
MaxShine Curved Grip XL Detailing Brush Ultra Soft Bristle
Product Introduction Sizable bristle heads for cleaning large areas Ergonomic, full grip handle to keep your hand cramp-free Ultra-soft bristles for delicate yet thorough cleaning Chemical-resistant and rubberized handle material Included drying/storage rack for optimum organization and care...
detailingshed.com.au
I wish I had discovered this brush when I was dealing with the Mustang's OE fit wheels, this would have made short work of the multitude of spokes on those wheels. Although, this style of brush didn't exist back then. Compared to a boars hair brush that is traditionally used on wheels, this style of synthetic bristle brush is ultra soft and gentle. The only thing this brush doesn't do compared to the TRC Ultra Wheel Mitt that I have been using for a while now is reach behind the back of the spokes.
Even covered in a layer of foam, in this case the excellent Opti-Coat M-Wash, you can still see the bonnet bulge rising above the rest of the bodywork.
Today I tried something different with the drying by using P&S Absolute rinse-less wash mixed at 64:1. I've been having streaking issues with this car, the hood in particular. Years of using a variety of different spray sealants and quick detailers has finally caught up with me.
Absolute is one of the slickest of it's type, but doesn't contain a wax or Si02 element in its formulation. While it didn't feel as slick afterwards compared to say Bread Maker or Paint Gloss, it DIDN'T streak or ghost. I'm going to mess around with this a bit using different rinse-less products to see if I can find a sweet spot regarding slickness and gloss, without the streaking.
With today the first 40-degree (104 f) day of the summer so far, it was getting a too toasty for me, so after dealing with the XR8 and putting it back to bed for a while, I got the Mustang out for a run to the toy store. I had intentions of buying the Milwaukee impact gun I had been eyeing for over a year now with some Christmas gift cards, but annoyingly, they were out of stock. In fact, they only had two of the multitude of M18 impact skins Milwaukee offer on the shelf. How is that a thing these days?
Anyway, walking out empty handed and an empty wallet, I ordered the one I wanted and paid in advance, I decided to take an extended burn in the Mustang.
This such a riot of a car to drive, all snorty and gruff when you want to make some noise, but it's also a great high-speed tourer. While I love revving that engine out and drooling over the luscious induction note, it's also lovely to settle back, select 6th gear and relax while looking out over that long, pumped hood.
Last edited:
Tactile
Well-known member
Have you been into Ultimate Fasteners lately? They have a good range of Milwaukee.
Was there a couple of weeks ago, and yes, they carry a good selection. I had a couple of Christmas gift cards from Total Tools to use up though.
Tactile
Well-known member
I'm not sure if T.T. in Shep is doing too good, Sydney Tools is getting the better of them I think.
Tactile
Well-known member
I know the owners of Ultimate Fasteners pretty well, one of them owns a Mustang!
I go to Total Tools for that reason.
Total Tools have been in town for more than a decade, then switched to a larger store to offer a larger range, then had Sydney Tools opened up right next door shortly after. Shrewd but cheeky move. I have no problem with Sydney Tools being in town, it gives consumers another avenue to get away from the **** that Bunning's sells, but I don't like how it played out.
My father's business has been buying off them for years, they were renting one of the buildings in front of the factory, but recently moved around the corner to a new facility also built and owned by the business. I've bought plenty from there, including my Kincrome tool chest, and have a good relationship with the owner...................just don't ask me his name, I can tell you all about cars and detailing products, but I never remember people's names.
Tactile
Well-known member
Mark (with Mustang) & Dean. Mark spends a lot of time on the road.My father's business has been buying off them for years, they were renting one of the buildings in front of the factory, but recently moved around the corner to a new facility also built and owned by the business. I've bought plenty from there, including my Kincrome tool chest, and have a good relationship with the owner...................just don't ask me his name, I can tell you all about cars and detailing products, but I never remember people's names.
I go to a lot of tool places here in Melbourne and I see T. Tools, in general, starting to go backwards. Sydney are very aggressive with their deals and advertising, have a tech onsite at a lot of shops and they have some better brands IMO. Tool Kit Depot is going to make it harder as they expand as well.
ajohno
Well-known member
Just looked at some pictures of the Mustang S650. It looks really nice.
Last edited:
I will say that overall, I think the S550 is the more cohesive design. I especially like the original's raised hood and the two strong lines that run through the doors, makes it look more toned and muscular.
Despite it being another red Mustang, nothing else currently on sale interests me as much as the S650. If I didn't want it so much, I would have told Ford to ****** off, the whole buying experience has been terrible. Considering the car that I have now is here, paid for and only has 10,000km on the clock, I don't exactly need a new car. I never thought that I would ever have to wait 17+ months for a ****** Ford.
This is what it might look like if Ford ever built the dam thing..................
ajohno
Well-known member
You can see the difference between the 2. I know it might only be me but I can’t understand they converted everything to right hand drive but didn’t move park brake to the driver side.
Tactile
Well-known member
You need to start preparing yourself DFB, the BMW buying experience was amazing and also cured me of my service anxiety.
Geoff289
Well-known member
While neither the 5 or 6 interest me personally, amongst other reasons because they're so common, I do like the 5 better. They've gone all Camaro on the front of the 6.I will say that overall, I think the S550 is the more cohesive design. I especially like the original's raised hood and the two strong lines that run through the doors, makes it look more toned and muscular.
Despite it being another red Mustang, nothing else currently on sale interests me as much as the S650. If I didn't want it so much, I would have told Ford to ****** off, the whole buying experience has been terrible. Considering the car that I have now is here, paid for and only has 10,000km on the clock, I don't exactly need a new car. I never thought that I would ever have to wait 17+ months for a ****** Ford.
This is what it might look like if Ford ever built the dam thing..................
All about production costs. They're not converted as such, they are built in RHD drive form but this means two sets of many components have to be produced and the assembly line has to cope with both. It would obviously be better to have the hand brake closer but not being essential for either legal or functional purposes they'd rather save the few bucks involved.
You need to look no further than the blinker stalk on a wide range of vehicles sold here being on the left to see this reality at work.
It's taken me a bit to come around to the S650 styling, but mainly because the S550 set a very high bar for me. As for the Camaro, well it's dead now!
The cupholder/handbrake has never bothered me like it does for some. But I don't use my cars as a rolling cafeteria.
As mentioned, its all about cost for Ford, and most US brands if I'm honest. If they can save a mere cent per vehicle, that plays out to quite the saving over the life of the model. Ford would be saving millions not producing two different center consoles. Although, one could argue a smarter designed center console wouldn't require two versions.
If you ever want to learn more about how car makers arrive at key product decisions, production line intricacies or hear more from the people who make the decisions, check out the podcast Autoline After Hours. Some of the earlier episodes with Peter DeLorenzo were the best, especially in the years following the 2008 financial crash and the GM bankruptcy.
insidethehoax
Member
I am sure there are some things they actually have vetted and tested but there are a lot of items that haven’t been. A lot of people have been told to believe that they have tested all these different pressure washers but personally I don’t see much value with spraying water into a bucket as your only test.
I wouldn't necessarily agree with that. I want to state that while I agree with a lot of his methods, I am certainly not a fan boy and I too take issue with some of his views. However, I'm a numbers and facts person, so what I'm about to write is based around what I have learned from him and many other sources.
Keep in mind his testing was centered around using a pressure washer to wash cars with. In such a situation, the key measurement is the flow rate, not outright pressure. A machine that runs lean for flow is virtually useless for washing cars, the pressure washer in this application is purely to **** through as much water as possible to get the job done quicker. Pressure is helps, but mainly for using the foam cannon. The flipside to flow over pressure is that the machine will be useless at cleaning decks or concreate, but that is easily remedied with nozzle orifices.
So, his method of spraying into a bucket to measure water output is appropriate. He also measured each unit for pressure in stock form, this as much as anything proved that the numbers on the box don't necessarily corelate to what the unit will achieve in the real world (companies selling pressure washers tend to fudge the numbers, something that is not universal or governed, so take those advertised numbers as a guide only). He then pressure tested with aftermarket accessories to achieve the best balance of flow and pressure.
I also have to wonder who else before him invested so much time, money and effort into testing so many pressure washers, which then gave so many a reference point to work from? The fact he made all that public knowledge, be that via videos or the spreadsheet published on his website, is frankly remarkable in this age of intellectual property. While he has most certainly made money from those videos and by selling accessory packages, how many took that information and went and bought the parts on Amazon? Probably more than those who would go on to buy then in his store.
There are always many sides to a story.
Tactile
Well-known member
I respect his view and track record with cleaning & pressure washing gear but his move into tools is a bit cringy sometimes, but he's not dumb, he will pick it up given time. More power to him for having a go.
Let’s get this out of the way before I go any further, yes I know, yet another lawn mower. This makes it mower number eleven, but curiosity got the best of me. Sue me, I’m deranged!
For the most part, I cycle through the majority of those eleven mowers, with a couple of regular workhorses getting the call up most often, those being the Honda powered Bushranger 800SP and a 10-year-old Krohler powered Rover ProCut 560.
The Bushranger mulches and catches great on lighter growth, it’s built like a tank, the 3-speed gearbox is handy and the engine is more powerful than Honda let on. But the mower struggles on thick and tall grass or when trying to process bulk autumn leaves. It’s important to note that this is not because of a lack of grunt from the GXV 160 engine, but the partial discharge chute tends to block and prevent clippings from being deposited into the catcher. This then leaves a messier finish and necessitates frequent stoppages to unblock the chute, which adds time to the job. I would also prefer finer adjustment on the height settings, the steps between each position being too big.
In the height of summer, the Rover with its full width discharge chute makes catching overgrown Kikuyu so much easier. For this reason, I have kept the Rover well beyond the normal duty cycle for a “main” mower. If Rover still offered a ProCut, I would have traded it years ago now. As such, I have been making repairs where needed to keep it running, which is proving more and more difficult because the ProCut used bespoke parts different from the rest of the Rover lineup. As such, finding parts is difficult and Rover have basically abandoned the market for these machines. In recent times, it seems like I have been snapping up the last of what is still around, axle mounting plates and bushes, drive cogs, wheels, cables ect.
To be fair, the above situation has been a workable situation, swapping between the two as the season dictated. But I’m always on the lookout for something new or better. The decision to buy the Bushranger in the first place was an attempt to replace the Rover in total, it being the best of what was around at the time.
Shortly after I bought the Bushranger, Victa returned to the commercial mower scene with a new 21-inch self-propelled machine. For some reason, Victa come and go in this segment, and every time I was ready for a new wide cut mower, Victa were missing from the options list. So ever since the current model was made available, I have had my eye on one.
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/product-catalog/professional/lawn-mowers/commercial-21-850-ic-sp.html
So why did I procrastinate so long? Because there is nothing out there on this mower. Dealers don’t like stocking them because of the high asking price, so seeing one in person is limited. There are virtually no videos or written reviews to help potential buyers, and the content created by social media influencers is just too limited to be of any value. After umming and ahing for more than three years now, I caved in and decided to be that person providing this information. I had to buy this unit online sight unseen, an expensive sacrifice for the greater good. Oh, and I get to have a new mower.
Overview -
There is now a range of 19 and 21-inch Victa commercial catching mowers available, joining the MulchMaster 560 and MasterCut 460 Utility.
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/products/professional/lawn-mowers.html
For efficiency, I chose to focus on the 21-inch machines, which are offered with the 190 cc Briggs & Stratton 850 engine, or the 200cc Chinese Victa VC200. Both have cast iron bores, but a quoted torque number is conspicuous in its absence on the VC200, not that I was considering anything but the Briggs 850 anyway.
Simplistically, this is a widened 19-inch Mustang alloy chassis, with several changes made to make it more suitable for commercial applications. The following applied to both 19 and 21-inch commercial mowers -
- Metal rather than plastic catcher flap
- Cutting heights from 10 – 70mm with 10 positions (25 – 76mm and 7 positions on Bushranger)
- Heavy Duty Gearbox (as used on the MulchMaster)
- High-capacity fabric catcher with heavy duty steel frame, double layer dust deflector and leather wear points on rear corners
- Heavy duty cast aluminum deck
- Replaceable steel wear plates on the deck
- Cast iron bore engines
Something else to note is the lighter weight of the 21-inch Victa’s, tipping the scales at 46 to 48 kg compared to 52 kg for the Bushranger. First impressions prove this is noticeable.
But there is no such thing as a perfect mower, so there are some compromises. The chief of which being the half rear chute. In the end, I sent an email to the supplier and kindly asked for images of the chute, which was promptly sent. From this limited information, the chute appeared to be slightly wider than the Bushranger, and certainly bigger than the Honda’s.
Another thing to note, the belt rather than shaft driven gearbox is also a single speed unit, but the 5 kph speed is actually faster than the Bushranger’s 4.6 kph in top gear. And the catcher only holds 50 rather than 70 liters.
So that’s the overview! Stay Tuned!
For the most part, I cycle through the majority of those eleven mowers, with a couple of regular workhorses getting the call up most often, those being the Honda powered Bushranger 800SP and a 10-year-old Krohler powered Rover ProCut 560.
The Bushranger mulches and catches great on lighter growth, it’s built like a tank, the 3-speed gearbox is handy and the engine is more powerful than Honda let on. But the mower struggles on thick and tall grass or when trying to process bulk autumn leaves. It’s important to note that this is not because of a lack of grunt from the GXV 160 engine, but the partial discharge chute tends to block and prevent clippings from being deposited into the catcher. This then leaves a messier finish and necessitates frequent stoppages to unblock the chute, which adds time to the job. I would also prefer finer adjustment on the height settings, the steps between each position being too big.
In the height of summer, the Rover with its full width discharge chute makes catching overgrown Kikuyu so much easier. For this reason, I have kept the Rover well beyond the normal duty cycle for a “main” mower. If Rover still offered a ProCut, I would have traded it years ago now. As such, I have been making repairs where needed to keep it running, which is proving more and more difficult because the ProCut used bespoke parts different from the rest of the Rover lineup. As such, finding parts is difficult and Rover have basically abandoned the market for these machines. In recent times, it seems like I have been snapping up the last of what is still around, axle mounting plates and bushes, drive cogs, wheels, cables ect.
To be fair, the above situation has been a workable situation, swapping between the two as the season dictated. But I’m always on the lookout for something new or better. The decision to buy the Bushranger in the first place was an attempt to replace the Rover in total, it being the best of what was around at the time.
Shortly after I bought the Bushranger, Victa returned to the commercial mower scene with a new 21-inch self-propelled machine. For some reason, Victa come and go in this segment, and every time I was ready for a new wide cut mower, Victa were missing from the options list. So ever since the current model was made available, I have had my eye on one.
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/product-catalog/professional/lawn-mowers/commercial-21-850-ic-sp.html
So why did I procrastinate so long? Because there is nothing out there on this mower. Dealers don’t like stocking them because of the high asking price, so seeing one in person is limited. There are virtually no videos or written reviews to help potential buyers, and the content created by social media influencers is just too limited to be of any value. After umming and ahing for more than three years now, I caved in and decided to be that person providing this information. I had to buy this unit online sight unseen, an expensive sacrifice for the greater good. Oh, and I get to have a new mower.
Overview -
There is now a range of 19 and 21-inch Victa commercial catching mowers available, joining the MulchMaster 560 and MasterCut 460 Utility.
https://www.victa.com/au/en_au/products/professional/lawn-mowers.html
For efficiency, I chose to focus on the 21-inch machines, which are offered with the 190 cc Briggs & Stratton 850 engine, or the 200cc Chinese Victa VC200. Both have cast iron bores, but a quoted torque number is conspicuous in its absence on the VC200, not that I was considering anything but the Briggs 850 anyway.
Simplistically, this is a widened 19-inch Mustang alloy chassis, with several changes made to make it more suitable for commercial applications. The following applied to both 19 and 21-inch commercial mowers -
- Metal rather than plastic catcher flap
- Cutting heights from 10 – 70mm with 10 positions (25 – 76mm and 7 positions on Bushranger)
- Heavy Duty Gearbox (as used on the MulchMaster)
- High-capacity fabric catcher with heavy duty steel frame, double layer dust deflector and leather wear points on rear corners
- Heavy duty cast aluminum deck
- Replaceable steel wear plates on the deck
- Cast iron bore engines
Something else to note is the lighter weight of the 21-inch Victa’s, tipping the scales at 46 to 48 kg compared to 52 kg for the Bushranger. First impressions prove this is noticeable.
But there is no such thing as a perfect mower, so there are some compromises. The chief of which being the half rear chute. In the end, I sent an email to the supplier and kindly asked for images of the chute, which was promptly sent. From this limited information, the chute appeared to be slightly wider than the Bushranger, and certainly bigger than the Honda’s.
Another thing to note, the belt rather than shaft driven gearbox is also a single speed unit, but the 5 kph speed is actually faster than the Bushranger’s 4.6 kph in top gear. And the catcher only holds 50 rather than 70 liters.
So that’s the overview! Stay Tuned!
Un-boxing, assembly and fluids!
Victa’s are all semi-assembled and shipped in a singular large box. If bought from a mower shop, they will finish the final assembly as well as adding oil and fuel, an initial startup and inspection. In my case, having blacklisted the local shops, and no other neighboring towns stocking the Victa Commercial range, I bought this online from a vendor that I buy parts from. That means I get the honor of getting the new toy up and running.
bwmachinery.com.au
So, so satisfying.....................
First step after opening and unpacking the box is to install the lower handle, angled side pointing up...........ask me how I know this.............
Next, the upper handle is secured using the locking handle cams.
Throttle and clutch cables are pre-installed, but the throttle control needs to be secured to the handle.
At this point, you will need to make sure the cables are routed cleanly and without the possibility of rubbing on the catcher flap. Both cables are then secured with a plastic clip.
The catcher is supplied pre-assembled.
For some strange reason, Victa only fit two blades to this model, despite the unit shipping with a four-blade carrier. I'm not sure if this was the seller or Victa, but there were an additional two blades included in the box. I don't have a firm reason why they do this, all I can think of is the fitment of two blades would slow down the discharge of clippings into the chute, perhaps making it more manageable for the half-chute arrangement? Either way, I decided to fit the additional blades.
It’s then time for the vital fluids. Now, I typically use Penrite 10w30 semi-synthetic oil in my mowers. The exception to that being my older Briggs engines, where I use the SAE30 monograde mineral oil to help reduce oil consumption. For a new engine, its generally recommended to use mineral oil for the initial fill, before swapping to synthetic after the first 25 hours. In this case, 600ml of Penrite SAE30. Then a full tank of 91-ron unleaded petrol (I don’t bother premium fuel).
Assembled, oiled and ready to go, the engine fired right up. This is the first 850 engine I have had with the newer plastic carburetor, which seems to idle a bit lower than before. As I always do, I'll run the engine in, change the oil and then up the revs to about 3500 rpm.
Next, something completely pointless, but satisfying!
Victa’s are all semi-assembled and shipped in a singular large box. If bought from a mower shop, they will finish the final assembly as well as adding oil and fuel, an initial startup and inspection. In my case, having blacklisted the local shops, and no other neighboring towns stocking the Victa Commercial range, I bought this online from a vendor that I buy parts from. That means I get the honor of getting the new toy up and running.
VICTA Commercial 21" 850 I/C SP Mower (2691600) | B.W. Machinery
If you want more details about VICTA Commercial 21" 850 I/C SP Mower (2691600), please call us on 1300 454 585 today for more information.
bwmachinery.com.au
So, so satisfying.....................
First step after opening and unpacking the box is to install the lower handle, angled side pointing up...........ask me how I know this.............
Next, the upper handle is secured using the locking handle cams.
Throttle and clutch cables are pre-installed, but the throttle control needs to be secured to the handle.
At this point, you will need to make sure the cables are routed cleanly and without the possibility of rubbing on the catcher flap. Both cables are then secured with a plastic clip.
The catcher is supplied pre-assembled.
For some strange reason, Victa only fit two blades to this model, despite the unit shipping with a four-blade carrier. I'm not sure if this was the seller or Victa, but there were an additional two blades included in the box. I don't have a firm reason why they do this, all I can think of is the fitment of two blades would slow down the discharge of clippings into the chute, perhaps making it more manageable for the half-chute arrangement? Either way, I decided to fit the additional blades.
It’s then time for the vital fluids. Now, I typically use Penrite 10w30 semi-synthetic oil in my mowers. The exception to that being my older Briggs engines, where I use the SAE30 monograde mineral oil to help reduce oil consumption. For a new engine, its generally recommended to use mineral oil for the initial fill, before swapping to synthetic after the first 25 hours. In this case, 600ml of Penrite SAE30. Then a full tank of 91-ron unleaded petrol (I don’t bother premium fuel).
Assembled, oiled and ready to go, the engine fired right up. This is the first 850 engine I have had with the newer plastic carburetor, which seems to idle a bit lower than before. As I always do, I'll run the engine in, change the oil and then up the revs to about 3500 rpm.
Next, something completely pointless, but satisfying!
Ceramic Coating!
Yes, I know! But why not?!
To be honest, I’m doing this for a laugh, and to use up some left-over coating. In this case, that coating being Armour Detail Supply High Temp Wheel Coating, which was designed for high-heat applications.
armourdetailsupply.com
After a wipe down with IPA-based prep spray, in this case P&S Paint Prep, the coating was applied to all accessible surfaces including the deck, handles, throttle control, engine cover, valve cover, wheels and rear flap. Working in sections, the coating was applied, allowed to flash/sweat, then levelled with two towels.
As is the case for this coating, it is then left to cure for 12 hours before use or getting wet.
A pointless endeavor, but one that makes me happy!
Yes, I know! But why not?!
To be honest, I’m doing this for a laugh, and to use up some left-over coating. In this case, that coating being Armour Detail Supply High Temp Wheel Coating, which was designed for high-heat applications.
Wheel Coating
Armour Wheel Quartz Coating is a high-performance solution designed to protect and enhance the appearance of your wheels. A formula that's specifically engineered to resist heat and heavy abuse, this coating provides superior protection against brake dust and buildup. The coating's advanced...
armourdetailsupply.com
After a wipe down with IPA-based prep spray, in this case P&S Paint Prep, the coating was applied to all accessible surfaces including the deck, handles, throttle control, engine cover, valve cover, wheels and rear flap. Working in sections, the coating was applied, allowed to flash/sweat, then levelled with two towels.
As is the case for this coating, it is then left to cure for 12 hours before use or getting wet.
A pointless endeavor, but one that makes me happy!
A Closer Look
One of the difficulties I faced when contemplating this purchase was the complete lack of information on this mower. A lot of that comes down to an apparent lack of interest from Victa itself, the website is pi.s poor with incomplete or inconsistent published spec’s, and incorrect or insufficient product images. And it's that second part that annoys me most. Where most mower manufacturers highlight key features with clear imaging and text, Victa is not that sophisticated.
After that, I went looking far and wide for online reviews, images and videos. But little to nothing was out there. Victa clearly sent a few units to key social media influencers, but that sort of content is designed around short, algorithm pleasing videos that offer no value to someone contemplating a purchase.
And so, having spent the money, I present basically the first published review and photo essay of the Victa 21-inch Commercial SP mower –
Commercial grade gearbox -
Commercial grade double ball bearing 8-inch wheels -
Steel height sector plate with 10 positions, ranging from 10 to 70 mm -
US-made Briggs & Stratton engine, 190cc, cast iron bore, automatic choke, spin-on oil filter and 11.5 Nm of torque -
Heavy duty front bumper -
50L fabric grass bagger with heavy duty steel frame, double layer dust deflector and leather wear points on rear corners -
Steel catcher flap -
Rear discharge chute. I can say this is wider than the Bushranger -
Plastic mulching plug -
Missing from the spec list is a zone starter mounting, which I remedied with a clip I had in stock. Compared to Honda engines, the Briggs has a long enough rope to make this possible -
More to come, stay tuned!
One of the difficulties I faced when contemplating this purchase was the complete lack of information on this mower. A lot of that comes down to an apparent lack of interest from Victa itself, the website is pi.s poor with incomplete or inconsistent published spec’s, and incorrect or insufficient product images. And it's that second part that annoys me most. Where most mower manufacturers highlight key features with clear imaging and text, Victa is not that sophisticated.
After that, I went looking far and wide for online reviews, images and videos. But little to nothing was out there. Victa clearly sent a few units to key social media influencers, but that sort of content is designed around short, algorithm pleasing videos that offer no value to someone contemplating a purchase.
And so, having spent the money, I present basically the first published review and photo essay of the Victa 21-inch Commercial SP mower –
Commercial grade gearbox -
Commercial grade double ball bearing 8-inch wheels -
Steel height sector plate with 10 positions, ranging from 10 to 70 mm -
US-made Briggs & Stratton engine, 190cc, cast iron bore, automatic choke, spin-on oil filter and 11.5 Nm of torque -
Heavy duty front bumper -
50L fabric grass bagger with heavy duty steel frame, double layer dust deflector and leather wear points on rear corners -
Steel catcher flap -
Rear discharge chute. I can say this is wider than the Bushranger -
Plastic mulching plug -
Missing from the spec list is a zone starter mounting, which I remedied with a clip I had in stock. Compared to Honda engines, the Briggs has a long enough rope to make this possible -
More to come, stay tuned!
After getting the new ready for action, I turned attention to the old.
As discovered when I replaced the drive cogs on the Rover, the wheel backing plates were damaged and letting too much debris to enter the drive systems rotating assembly. After scouring the internet proved fruitless, I sent emails to a couple of mower shops pleading my case. All but one couldn't help, but I now have two replacement wheel backing plates, probably the last in the country.
So, it was off with the wheel and drive cogs, a now familiar process.
The backing plate is secured by a single pop rivet, which I drilled out.
The new parts didn't have the hole for the rivet, so I put the new cover on the machine, offered up the old one and used it as the guide. After trying to secure the new cover with small bolts I had in stock, I gave up and had to go out and get some replacement rivets.
With the new backing plates fitted, I applied grease to the axle and drive shaft, re-installed the drive cogs and pawls, followed by the wheels and a slug of graphite powder on the cogs for lubrication.
A quick test run to verify the repair, and its driving both wheels and seems to be producing less noise as the old plates were scraping against something.
So, one repaired mower, and one brand new mower.
As discovered when I replaced the drive cogs on the Rover, the wheel backing plates were damaged and letting too much debris to enter the drive systems rotating assembly. After scouring the internet proved fruitless, I sent emails to a couple of mower shops pleading my case. All but one couldn't help, but I now have two replacement wheel backing plates, probably the last in the country.
So, it was off with the wheel and drive cogs, a now familiar process.
The backing plate is secured by a single pop rivet, which I drilled out.
The new parts didn't have the hole for the rivet, so I put the new cover on the machine, offered up the old one and used it as the guide. After trying to secure the new cover with small bolts I had in stock, I gave up and had to go out and get some replacement rivets.
With the new backing plates fitted, I applied grease to the axle and drive shaft, re-installed the drive cogs and pawls, followed by the wheels and a slug of graphite powder on the cogs for lubrication.
A quick test run to verify the repair, and its driving both wheels and seems to be producing less noise as the old plates were scraping against something.
So, one repaired mower, and one brand new mower.