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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

ajohno

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Joined
Mar 25, 2014
Messages
1,359
Location
Sydney Australia
Nothing wrong with too many mowers.
1) Honda push mower about 19 years old HRU19 Buck.
2) Honda self propelled about 4 years old GXV 160.
My backyard is like a bowling green and that is mowed with a MOW MASTER R18 cylinder mower.

I also put spray wax on all my gear which is why they all look so good and clean. Also maybe over kill but I have timers on all my lawnmower and you would be surprised how many hours a season you will do.

Never seen a Victa like you have now.

Thanks for the update.
 
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Tactile

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Sep 2, 2020
Messages
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Location
Melbourne, AU
I would ceramic coat a patch under the mower to see if it stopped all that nasty stuff sticking to the underside...purely in the name of science of course...
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,555
Location
Australia
Nothing wrong with too many mowers.
1) Honda push mower about 19 years old HRU19 Buck.
2) Honda self propelled about 4 years old GXV 160.
My backyard is like a bowling green and that is mowed with a MOW MASTER R18 cylinder mower.

I also put spray wax on all my gear which is why they all look so good and clean. Also maybe over kill but I have timers on all my lawnmower and you would be surprised how many hours a season you will do.

Never seen a Victa like you have now.

Thanks for the update.
I had a Honda Buffalo Buck for a while, it had the larger GSV 190 on it.

I've tried the majority of the big brands sold in Australia; Honda, Rover, Bushranger, Masport, Victa.................but I keep coming back to Victa for the performance. I've had Kohler, Briggs, Victa and Honda engines, my favorites being the Briggs 850 (power), Honda GXV 160 (refinement, fuel economy) and Victa 2-stroke (the performance under high load).

IMG_3855.jpg

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There are a couple missing from the above, but the majority of them are Victa's, with two Rover's and one Bushranger in the mix. They all do have a niche to fill.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
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Location
Australia
Had the Jaguar serviced yesterday. Of particular concern was a lack of AC performance, which is something that has occurred before. Last time, the system was inspected and found to be low on gas, but no leaks could be detected. This time, a leak was found, and a replacement pipe needed. This is a common problem on early build XE's, so I'm not surprised or concerned. The replacement part and fitment are a relatively cheap fix.

What's not a cheap fix, and something I politely declined, was the quote of $250 to replace the wiper blades. :oops:

Yeah, no thanks. Parts already ordered and I'll do that myself.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
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Location
Australia
Looks like the mower shop that screwed me over 15 months ago is in trouble.

As I've explained previously, the shop changed hands nearly two years ago and the customer service went to ****. At the time, I understood that people make mistakes, that businesses like this are flooded with work. But making two mistakes in a row at MY expense, then not owning the mistake or making it right for the customer is pathetic. I vowed to never go back, telling everyone that I know to do the same.

I have since gone on to stock my own spare parts and repair machines myself, in the process, I have been enjoying the challenge.

IMG_9015.jpg

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Ever since, the business has gotten worse and worse. The front yard is a complete mess. There are rows of junk push and ride-on mowers, catchers and engines sitting along the fence in full view of the public, sharing space with rows of brand-new riders. That's just lazy and makes the place look hokey. If they can't be bothered keeping the place neat, then what is the quality of their work or customer service? Oh wait, I already know the answer to that.

And now they are having a "Save My Bacon" Event. I would say that as the economy has dived and sales have slowed post Covid, its the end of summer, and the lack of customer service has finally caught up with them. And they had the audacity send me an invite via text message and Facebook to this "Event" that is clearly a fire sale.

IMG-1156.png

As is evident, I don't suffer fools gladly.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
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Australia
so, are you going :ROFLMAO:
I should, shouldn't I?

I thinking I'll go in, sign for a new zero turn and offer to pay for it the next day. Then I'll completely ignore them for 3 weeks, before cancelling the order via text message. I'll blame him for me not calling sooner, while also blaming a lack of staff for my inadequate communications skills.
 

ajohno

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Joined
Mar 25, 2014
Messages
1,359
Location
Sydney Australia
I have a saying. Every dog has its day. It looks like his has come. But unfortunately he won’t learn from his mistakes.
I also look after small business and if they screw me bye bye.
 

Tactile

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Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
223
Location
Melbourne, AU
Nothing new for the area. I could sit here and write stuff all day about the incompetence and mediocrity of the place.

If I was you though I would go there and tell them what they are doing wrong...you have an opportunity to tell them what the expectations of the area is these days, you wont change anything by bitching about them. Yes, they might go away but you never know they might listen to you. Financial obscurity can change peoples attitude (sometimes).
 
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D.F.B

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Australia
The new machine is now earning its keep.....................

IMG-1162.jpg

Apart from a quick run over my front lawns, this was the first mow. In this case, I didn't catch, hence the grass sitting on the deck.

The engine turns over much easier than either the Honda GXV 160, and especially the Krohler. That's one of the things that has always annoyed me about the Krohler, its unusually hard to pull over, like there's no compression release.

I really need to tweak the governor now. The engine is superbly torquey out of the box, but it just feels stilted. I haven't put the tacho on it yet, but its sounding like around 2800 rpm, which is just too low. Upping that to around 3600 - 3800 rpm is completely safe, makes for superior cutting and speeds up the self-propel too. I've heard you are supposed to let the engine run in first, but I've also read you can just do it out of the box. I might split the difference and get it up above 3000 rpm to get it in the ballpark and go from there.

Tweaking the governor is not as easy as the earlier versions of this engine with the metal carb. Briggs have hidden the adjustment tab behind the air filter housing, but its easy when you know where to look.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
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Australia
Cashing in a couple of gift vouchers for a Milwaukee M18 Surge Impact Driver..............a belated Christmas present.

https://www.totaltools.com.au/114272-milwaukee-m18-fuel-surge-1-4-impact-driver-bare-m18fqid-0

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With most of the Milwaukee M18 impact range being out of stock for over a month now, I had to place an order for it two weeks ago. This particular model has a hydraulic powertrain to reduce metal on metal contact, which allows for quieter and smoother operation. It also allows four speed and torque settings. In both cases, I'm told these elements deliver a smoother and more finessed action, rather than smashing the guts out of whatever you are working on.

I have also added some additional garage lighting above the sink. There is nothing special about these, other than they are ultra slim and easily expanded.

https://www.altronics.com.au/led-lighting/rigid-led-strip-lighting/
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/x3271-natural-white-linkable-led-strip-light/

I mounted the lights to wall using adhesive velco, so no mess or holes to drill. Each light comes with a male/male daisy chain cord, which I only used to bridge from the cabinet to the wall. The three wall mounted units are joined using a male/male joiner piece. You then connect a 12V power adapter. They also offer a dimming switch and motion sensor if so desired.

https://www.altronics.com.au/p/x3273-led-strip-joiner-for-x3271/
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/m8936d-powertran-12v-dc-2a-fixed-2.1mm-tip-appliance-plugpack/

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Despite how the images present, the light output is actually quite good, helping make this somewhat dark spot in the garage so much better.
 

cccoltsicehockey

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
1,372
Location
Charlotte, NC
Ceramic Coating!

Yes, I know! But why not?!

To be honest, I’m doing this for a laugh, and to use up some left-over coating. In this case, that coating being Armour Detail Supply High Temp Wheel Coating, which was designed for high-heat applications.


After a wipe down with IPA-based prep spray, in this case P&S Paint Prep, the coating was applied to all accessible surfaces including the deck, handles, throttle control, engine cover, valve cover, wheels and rear flap. Working in sections, the coating was applied, allowed to flash/sweat, then levelled with two towels.

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As is the case for this coating, it is then left to cure for 12 hours before use or getting wet.

A pointless endeavor, but one that makes me happy! :cool:

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I actually did this to my brand new John Deere X734 tractor 4 years ago. I went as far as doing the mower deck both outside and inside. The one thing I noticed is how much cleaner the inside the stayed. Obviously the edges were just sand blasted off my clippings. But the top inside flat surface I could just brush the clippings off each month when I took the deck off to clean. I plan to redo that part this spring.
 

Tactile

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2020
Messages
223
Location
Melbourne, AU
I knew a bloke years ago who used to wax his rider mower. Everyone used to hang it on him but I didn't. He was a great guy to buy stuff off when he decided to move it on because you know it was well looked after. Each to their own.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,555
Location
Australia
This mower got put to the ultimate test today, dealing with two weeks of summer Kikuyu growth. I wasn't sure how the new unit would travel, so I took the old Rover with me as well.

After starting the run with the Victa C21, I then switched to the Rover at the next stop which is notoriously thick and tall after two weeks. Annoyingly, the Rover was not driving properly, I got through the job but it will warrant investigation. That sort of meant the C21 was thrown into the deep end!

It's at this point I decided it was all or nothing! The shipped governor position yielded about 2800 - 2900 rpm................

IMG-1183.jpg

Two small adjustments to the spring tab had it running above the 3600 sweet spot. I will have a separate post on how to do this later on.

IMG-1187.jpg

Now, before this adjustment, the engine would grunt through thicker stuff, but it wasn't powering through, and the walking speed was a touch too slow for my liking. After the adjustment, now we are in the ballpark!

The engine is now powering through thicker grass, which improves catching ability, which in turn clears grass from the deck and prevents the engine bogging down. The walking speed is now much better, not running speed but a decent brisk walk.

Now, just because I have the full throttle revs set at 3600 rpm, that doesn't mean I need to run the machine at that all the time. But the good thing is, I now have options. On lighter growth, run it at half throttle. On thicker grass, go full throttle and get on with it!

What I love about the Briggs 850 engine is that while it has the power, about 6.0 - 6.5 hp, the larger 190cc capacity means it has torque too. That means it doesn't bog down under load in the same way the smaller 163cc Honda and 173cc Krohler do. Both of those engines can make power and spin hard, but they just don't have the same grunt to get through thicker stuff. The 850's slight mark against it is the fuel consumption, but I would rather deal with that over an engine that doesn't cut the mustard............or grass as it were.

That doesn't mean I hate the Honda, I'm a big fan of the GXV 160, its built like a tank, is ultra smooth and is fuel efficient. It's easy to work on too and feels like a high-quality product............... yes, there is some jank to the Briggs.

The Krohler? I've pounded that thing for years now and it's been extremely reliable................but I've always hated it! As mentioned earlier, its always been hard to pull over, often needed a second pull to fire. The thing has used oil from the beginning, never in a smokey way, but it just seems to consume it. The muffler is too small and makes it very noisy at full tilt. The dipstick is hard to read and made from nasty plastic. Overall, it just looks and feels cheaply made. But to be brutally honest, I'm surprised its lasted this long.

Anyway, here is a shot of the Victa Commercial 21 tackling one of my most challenging lawns. And the half chute? No blockages! :dance

IMG-1192.jpg

It's very early days, but I'm very pleased with how things have started out with this mower.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
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Location
Australia
Another week, another attempt at finding Rover spare parts! :conf

This time, I was chasing a set of the rear wheels, which have inner grooves to mesh with the drive gears.

RDW101.jpg

There are two versions of this wheel -

- 8-inch as used on ProCut 50 (634-04751 or A10624)
https://powermowers.com.au/collections/tyres-parts/products/rover-rear-wheel

- 9-inch as used on ProCut 560 (634-05015 or A10669)
https://powermowers.com.au/products...rive-wheel-a10669?_pos=1&_sid=1273f75d5&_ss=r

I needed the 9-inch version, which I again scoured the internet with no luck. I then reached out to the company who sold me the NLA dust shields and drive gears, they were listing the smaller version, but perhaps they could help me again. As luck would have it, they had them in stock, but the website link was inactive on their end.

I have since ordered four A10669, along with some new front wheels, A10622.

Actually, I was a bit confused what front wheels I needed. Measuring the old ones, it came in at 7.5-inch, which Rover sell under A10621. But the part number on wheels was indeed A10622. I guess I have lost 0.5-inch of tread in the 10 years I've had this unit.

7.5-inch as used on ProCut 50 (A10621)
https://powermowers.com.au/products/rover-wheel-a10621?_pos=2&_sid=a7feeef30&_ss=r

8-inch as used on ProCut 560 (A10622)
https://powermowers.com.au/collections/tyres-parts/products/rover-wheel-a10622

IMG-0415.jpg

Completely bald! And those are plastic "treads", not rubber. Should look like this...................



While its somewhat frustrating trying to find parts for this relic, I'm also finding it rewarding. Hunting through part diagrams, then the thrill of the chase finding parts for sale!
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,555
Location
Australia
Michelin Agilis 3 Update

Today was my first experience driving in the wet with these tyres. Where previously I had to be careful not to bring the engine up to boost in first, second, and sometimes third gear, otherwise the rear would be lit up like a Christmas tree. Now, I have traction, even with some provocation! Sadly, I had no wet roundabouts to test lateral traction on the way to work this morning.

In the dry, the Agilis 3 has a softer overall feel, something which is exaggerated by the aged and brittle Dunlop's that went before it. I suspect these Michelin's have a much softer sidewall, which does promote more movement as they flex under lateral load. The Dunlop's I could throw at corners with confidence, but the Michelins move around a bit more, which something I'm getting used to. But they are most certainly providing a softer ride. It's still firm, however there is a layer of cushiness that wasn't there before.

Some of that might sound on the negative side, but that is more me providing feedback on what I'm noticing. At this stage, I would still buy these tyres again, the benefits here are outweighing the slight drawbacks. As much as anything, I didn't realize how bad the previous tyres were in the end.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
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Australia
Another shipment of spare parts. Just on $180 spent online and not a small local business. I don't hold grudges.........much................

IMG-1200.jpg

The orange air filter is for my new Briggs 850, which is different from earlier versions of that engine. The long filter for the Honda GXV 160. The black foam filters are of the oil soak type and are for my Honda GX 25. The spark plugs are for "stock" and suit a variety of machines from Briggs, Honda, Stihl, Husqvarna, Krohler and Victa.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,555
Location
Australia
Trying out some new brushes on today's detail.

The first being the relatively new Detail Factory Progrip Fender Well Brush.


This particular brush is well suited to cleaning wheel arches of larger vehicles like this, the longer reach meaning you could even use it standing up for both wheels and wheel arches. The flag tip bristles are firm enough to get some work done, soft enough to be safe.

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Also great on side steps..................

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The second brush is the short version of the above, mainly aimed at wheel cleaning.


Like the fender brush, this version is available in both red or grey, and again has flag tipped bristles. I found this brush slightly off balance due to the huge head and stubby handle. But it certainly dealt with these wheels just fine.

IMG-1231.jpg

IMG-1235.jpg

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Like other Detail Factory brushes, you are paying for quality with these two. The entire handle has soft rubberized coating, which might sound pointless, but it really does make the user experience more pleasant. I've also found Detail Factory to be supremely durable, the tyre brush I've had for a while now still looks brand new after extensive use.

As for the vehicle in question, the tyres were scrubbed using P&S Undressed, a product I have been using the most for tyres recently. The wheels were cleaned using foamed Brake Buster. I then topped off the wheels with Gyeon Wet Coat.

The vehicle had accumulated plenty of bugs over the last month, so it was pretreated with Carpro Bug Out, then Gtechniq W4 Citrus Foam applied over the top and left to dwell. Rinsed, I then washed with Opti-Coat M-Wash. Drying aid the delightful Adam's Slick & Slide. Rounding off the exterior, I applied Gtechniq T2 to the tyres and wiped the wheels over with Clean Maker.

For the interior, I used Nexzett Cockpit Premium to wipe everything down, leather included. P&S True Vue for the glass, and Swift on the rubber floor mats. The steering wheel needed a deep clean with ColourLock Strong Leather Cleaner, followed by ColourLock Leather Protector. The cabin finished off with a few sprays of Griot's Fine Leather scent.
 

ajohno

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Joined
Mar 25, 2014
Messages
1,359
Location
Sydney Australia
The brushes look like good quality. Such a shame we can’t get anything like that here in Australia. Always having to get things like that from overseas.
Have you ever used Chemical Guys VRP tyre dressing? That’s what I use now and was wondering how it compares to OG tyre dressing. Starting to get low on tyre dressing and will need to order soon.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
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Location
Australia
The brushes look like good quality. Such a shame we can’t get anything like that here in Australia. Always having to get things like that from overseas.
Have you ever used Chemical Guys VRP tyre dressing? That’s what I use now and was wondering how it compares to OG tyre dressing. Starting to get low on tyre dressing and will need to order soon.
As I linked in the previous post, those brushes are available from Australian retailers..............................

Short brush -

Long brush -

As for tyre dressings, this is probably my most favorite detailing tasks. That would explain why I have about 20 different tyre dressings in my cabinet at this very moment, and I've tried countless more.

In terms of Chemical Guys VRP, it's their best product, but...............................I gave my bottle away.

The best part of VRP is the supremely easy application, its spreads so smoothly across the surface. I also really liked the scent and the appearance can be tailored to taste. But with a cabinet full of tyre dressings that I liked more, I gave my bottle of VRP to a work mate. The biggest drawback is the lack of longevity compared to various other water based dressings.

IMG-9367.jpg

jan21123.jpg

Comparing VRP to OG Tire Dressing, they both have a similar smooth application. VRP is best applied with a foam applicator due to its thicker formula, OG Tire is slightly thinner and therefore can be applied with a brush (my choice) or a foam applicator. Both have great scents, however I prefer the fruitier OG though. What I love about OG Tire is that it can be subtle or glossy depending on your taste. I've also found OG Tire is one of the few tyre dressings that plays well with Michelin PS4S, most seem to produce a blotchy appearance. Carpro Perl is another that does well on PS4S.

At the moment, these are my current favorites -

OG Tire Dressing - as above, looks good, smells good, easy to apply.


IMG-2880.jpg

NV Onyx - there is something so luxurious about this product. It sort of ticks all the boxes; smooth application feel, decent longevity, satin to gloss appearance, delightful coconut inspired scent.


g32.jpg

Adam's Graphene Tire Dressing - I don't really buy into the graphene hype train, but this is just a dam good tyre dressing. Its easy to apply using a brush and looks so nice with its mild satin appearance. Sadly, the local importer seems to have dropped it, so its expense to get now.


IMG-4813.jpg

Carpro Perl - this has been a favorite among the detailing scene, even after being on the market for more than a decade now. It can be diluted to suit your taste, I favor the 1:1 ratio for easier application. I typically use Perl with a large flag tipped brush to easily coat larger SUV and pickup tyres, where it delivers a deep, dark appearance.


IMG-2580.jpg
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,555
Location
Australia
A couple of extra parts for the Rover turned up today. In this case, replacement clutch and engine brake cables.

Clutch Engine Brake cable, Rover part 746-05020 -


Clutch Cable, Rover part 746-05039 -


IMG-1250.jpg

Both are operation on my unit, but I guessed it would worth getting these while I still can. The Krohler powered versions also have a throttle cable, the "Rover" 910 engine had a fixed throttle position. Throttle cables are universal so I don't see the need to hoard one for a rainy day like the more specific brake and clutch cables.
 

ajohno

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2014
Messages
1,359
Location
Sydney Australia
As I linked in the previous post, those brushes are available from Australian retailers..............................

Short brush -

Long brush -

As for tyre dressings, this is probably my most favorite detailing tasks. That would explain why I have about 20 different tyre dressings in my cabinet at this very moment, and I've tried countless more.

In terms of Chemical Guys VRP, it's their best product, but...............................I gave my bottle away.

The best part of VRP is the supremely easy application, its spreads so smoothly across the surface. I also really liked the scent and the appearance can be tailored to taste. But with a cabinet full of tyre dressings that I liked more, I gave my bottle of VRP to a work mate. The biggest drawback is the lack of longevity compared to various other water based dressings.

IMG-9367.jpg

jan21123.jpg

Comparing VRP to OG Tire Dressing, they both have a similar smooth application. VRP is best applied with a foam applicator due to its thicker formula, OG Tire is slightly thinner and therefore can be applied with a brush (my choice) or a foam applicator. Both have great scents, however I prefer the fruitier OG though. What I love about OG Tire is that it can be subtle or glossy depending on your taste. I've also found OG Tire is one of the few tyre dressings that plays well with Michelin PS4S, most seem to produce a blotchy appearance. Carpro Perl is another that does well on PS4S.

At the moment, these are my current favorites -

OG Tire Dressing - as above, looks good, smells good, easy to apply.


IMG-2880.jpg

NV Onyx - there is something so luxurious about this product. It sort of ticks all the boxes; smooth application feel, decent longevity, satin to gloss appearance, delightful coconut inspired scent.


g32.jpg

Adam's Graphene Tire Dressing - I don't really buy into the graphene hype train, but this is just a dam good tyre dressing. Its easy to apply using a brush and looks so nice with its mild satin appearance. Sadly, the local importer seems to have dropped it, so its expense to get now.


IMG-4813.jpg

Carpro Perl - this has been a favorite among the detailing scene, even after being on the market for more than a decade now. It can be diluted to suit your taste, I favor the 1:1 ratio for easier application. I typically use Perl with a large flag tipped brush to easily coat larger SUV and pickup tyres, where it delivers a deep, dark appearance.


IMG-2580.jpg
Thanks for the detailed reply. I know we can get the brushes from here but we are paying a premium.
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,555
Location
Australia
The Jaguar and Ranger's turn today, with the Jag in line for a couple of extra's,

First up, replacement wiper blades. Now, if the dealer had offered to replace these for sane money, then I would have gladly let them do the job, would have saved me chasing down the correct parts. But asking over $240 to replace a $63 set of rubber wiper blades is simply ridiculous.


IMG-1254.jpg

Replacing the wiper blades on the XE can be done with or without them in the service position, but its much easier with them raised. To do this, you need to follow the exact procedure to get them to raise and stay in place mid screen.

1. Sitting in the car, press the start button without pressure on the brake pedal to power up the accessories. Then, press again to power down, the screens and blower fan should be off.

2. Hold the wiper stalk down, then press the start button, again without brake pedal pressure. The wipers will then raise and hold in the vertical position.

3. Leave the power on, screens still active. DO NOT remove the key fob from the car, you risk prompting the car to lower the wiper arms and potentially smash a very expensive windscreen.

4. To return to the resting position, simply press the wiper stalk.

IMG-1256.jpg

Service Position Method -


Resting Position Method -


The old wipers had started to tear and were the originals from 2015, even brand new they weren't very good. I probably should have junked them a long time ago, but the car rarely drives in the rain.

Before washing the car, I also gave the engine bay a quick rinse off, followed by a generous application of Meguiar's Hyper Dressing diluted at 4:1 for a "natural" finish. I then used the EGO to distribute the Hyper Dressing and remove any excess water. After attending to the rest of the car, I doubled back with a towel to mop up any lingering water or product puddles.

IMG-1268.jpg

The colour tone of the Light Oyster leather trim is naturally prone to showing even the slightest hint of dye transfer, so it was out with the Mild Leather Cleaner from ColourLock, teamed with the ColourLock brush. The combination of that cleaner and THAT brush means you only need to gently agitate the leather, followed by wiping the residue with a towel.

IMG-1259.jpg

I then followed up with ColourLock Leather Protector, which is designed for leather older than three years. Applied with a foam block, the initial impression is that it makes the surface shiny. However, once it dries, the finish left behind is a natural matte appearance that is soft and non-greasy to touch.

IMG-1262.jpg

And with that, the fleet is now fully clean. :cool:
 

cccoltsicehockey

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
1,372
Location
Charlotte, NC
As I linked in the previous post, those brushes are available from Australian retailers..............................

Short brush -

Long brush -

As for tyre dressings, this is probably my most favorite detailing tasks. That would explain why I have about 20 different tyre dressings in my cabinet at this very moment, and I've tried countless more.

In terms of Chemical Guys VRP, it's their best product, but...............................I gave my bottle away.

The best part of VRP is the supremely easy application, its spreads so smoothly across the surface. I also really liked the scent and the appearance can be tailored to taste. But with a cabinet full of tyre dressings that I liked more, I gave my bottle of VRP to a work mate. The biggest drawback is the lack of longevity compared to various other water based dressings.

IMG-9367.jpg

jan21123.jpg

Comparing VRP to OG Tire Dressing, they both have a similar smooth application. VRP is best applied with a foam applicator due to its thicker formula, OG Tire is slightly thinner and therefore can be applied with a brush (my choice) or a foam applicator. Both have great scents, however I prefer the fruitier OG though. What I love about OG Tire is that it can be subtle or glossy depending on your taste. I've also found OG Tire is one of the few tyre dressings that plays well with Michelin PS4S, most seem to produce a blotchy appearance. Carpro Perl is another that does well on PS4S.

At the moment, these are my current favorites -

OG Tire Dressing - as above, looks good, smells good, easy to apply.


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NV Onyx - there is something so luxurious about this product. It sort of ticks all the boxes; smooth application feel, decent longevity, satin to gloss appearance, delightful coconut inspired scent.


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Adam's Graphene Tire Dressing - I don't really buy into the graphene hype train, but this is just a dam good tyre dressing. Its easy to apply using a brush and looks so nice with its mild satin appearance. Sadly, the local importer seems to have dropped it, so its expense to get now.


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Carpro Perl - this has been a favorite among the detailing scene, even after being on the market for more than a decade now. It can be diluted to suit your taste, I favor the 1:1 ratio for easier application. I typically use Perl with a large flag tipped brush to easily coat larger SUV and pickup tyres, where it delivers a deep, dark appearance.


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Appreciate the detailed tire shine share. I am always looking for something better it feels in this category. I sometimes go back to an old bottle of McGuires Purple tire shine. It last for forever but I will only use it if I have 48hrs to wait. It always seems to sling on the car if you don't put it on, wait 24hrs, and then wipe off anything that is left with a towel. It still lasts the longest of things I have tried. Chemical Guys VRP though is my go to if I am short on time and want to drive the car that day or first thing the next morning.

I have tried a couple of others as well but those are the only two I have kept around.

Now you make me want to order the OG, Adam's, NV Onyn, and CarPro and try them out. If you had to pick one to order first do you have a favorite of those three?
 
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D.F.B

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Appreciate the detailed tire shine share. I am always looking for something better it feels in this category. I sometimes go back to an old bottle of McGuires Purple tire shine. It last for forever but I will only use it if I have 48hrs to wait. It always seems to sling on the car if you don't put it on, wait 24hrs, and then wipe off anything that is left with a towel. It still lasts the longest of things I have tried. Chemical Guys VRP though is my go to if I am short on time and want to drive the car that day or first thing the next morning.

I have tried a couple of others as well but those are the only two I have kept around.

Now you make me want to order the OG, Adam's, NV Onyn, and CarPro and try them out. If you had to pick one to order first do you have a favorite of those three?
I think we all started with Meguiar's Endurance! I got sick of the mess it created and happily trade lovgivity for a simpler application and removal.

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Geeez, tough question! Which to choose out of four exceptional tire dressings!

I think if you have never tried Carpro Perl, I would be going for that first as its more versatile. Like VRP, it can be used around the rest of the car, from tires to wheel arches, engine bays, interior dressing, even leather. It can be used straight out of the bottle, but seems to respond better to dilution, particularly if used on the interior.

Carpro Perl1:1250 ml250 mlTyres
3:1375 ml175 mlEngine Bay/Exterior Plastics
5:1417 ml83 mlInterior

I would only buy the 500ml bottle to see if you like it, mainly because a bottle of Perl lasts quite a while if you are diluting it. I've found on tires, 1:1 is the best as it seems to deliver a more uniform finish. If used neat, it will deliver plenty of gloss, diluted and given a final wipe down and you will tame the gloss.

Undiluted -

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Diluted 1:1 and given a wipe down after 15min -

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D.F.B

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You would assume using these products so regularly that dilution amounts would be muscle memory, but my brain doesn't work that way. I got sick of looking up the dilution each and every time I mixed one of the following chemicals, so I did what I do best....................made a spread sheet!

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D.F.B

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The P&S brand has gone from strength to strength over the last decade, delivering a variety of high-performance products that have really found favor with the pro and enthusiast detailing market. In recent times they have been reinventing some of their older formula's, some rebranded to bring them to prominence, some reformulated for modern times applications.

One such product being Undressed Tire Prep, which was once known as P&S White-Wall Tire Cleaner. It's been brought under the Pro-Series banner and sold as an alternative to Shine Supply Wise Guy or Adam's Tire & Rubber Cleaner.


Another being Crystal Wash. This actually hasn't been alternated in formula, rather it's a different take on an iron fallout remover........without the stench. Instead of dissolving contamination and turning purple, it attacks and then crystalizes contaminants for easy hose off. This product dates back to the 1980's and has been brought into the spotlight in recent times as an alternative to stinky iron removers.

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/p-s-crystal-wash?variant=18899248709689

Another product, and the reason for this post, is Radiance. The original formula being a good old-fashioned wash & wax type maintenance soap. The case for a maintenance wash with carnauba wax is very limited these days, it really doesn't play well with ceramic coatings and sealants. Up until recently, you could still buy Radiance Premium Wash & Wax.

However, Radiance has since gone through a reformulation to be more relevant, now known as Inspiration Radiance Coating Maintenance Wash................


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The new formula, and new name for that matter, was intended to fit into the rest of the P&S Inspiration ceramic coating lineup. Like the original wax version, the new formula is designed to clean, then leave behind some additional Si02 to increase gloss, slickness, hydrophobics and provide some very minor protection.

Now, you can see I have the old and the new side by side. That was not intentional as I've never been a wash & wax fan. However, I was sent the old bottle in error (or maybe not), I must have got the very last bottle as it's since been removed from the supplier's website.

From what I have seen, Inspiration Radiance is not a high foaming soap. Nor have I been a big fan of these dual-purpose soaps. But, well, I wanted to try it. Time will tell if this changes my mind.
 
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D.F.B

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Mustang delayed again -

2024 Ford Mustang: Australian launch delayed again | CarExpert

I have thought this for a while now, but I doubt anyone will be getting a S650 in Australia now. There is simply no valid reason why the car can't be here right now when there are cars sitting unsold on dealer lots all across America. I suspect those who have orders will be getting their deposits back by July this year.

At this point, I'm so disappointed that I have basically wasted 2 years waiting for this car. I could have gone and bought something else, enjoyed it for a few years, then taken delivery of the S650. If Ford go on to pull the Mustang from Australia, I won't be the only one who has been left dangling on the hook for two years.

Ford clearly have no interest in this car, or any car for that matter. The axing of the Escape and Puma that play in a booming segment says it all. Ford are basically stringing this out to keep customers off the market, all the while the dealer makes interest on your deposit.

And if they do bring the car in the end, it won't be long before an updated model launches. So, all of those who signed up for the "new" Mustang will get the "old" Mustang.

So angry at the moment. Absolutely shameful treatment.
 

cccoltsicehockey

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I think we all started with Meguiar's Endurance! I got sick of the mess it created and happily trade lovgivity for a simpler application and removal.

DSC_0103.jpg

Geeez, tough question! Which to choose out of four exceptional tire dressings!

I think if you have never tried Carpro Perl, I would be going for that first as its more versatile. Like VRP, it can be used around the rest of the car, from tires to wheel arches, engine bays, interior dressing, even leather. It can be used straight out of the bottle, but seems to respond better to dilution, particularly if used on the interior.

Carpro Perl1:1250 ml250 mlTyres
3:1375 ml175 mlEngine Bay/Exterior Plastics
5:1417 ml83 mlInterior

I would only buy the 500ml bottle to see if you like it, mainly because a bottle of Perl lasts quite a while if you are diluting it. I've found on tires, 1:1 is the best as it seems to deliver a more uniform finish. If used neat, it will deliver plenty of gloss, diluted and given a final wipe down and you will tame the gloss.

Undiluted -

IMG-1409.jpg

IMG-1411.jpg

Diluted 1:1 and given a wipe down after 15min -

IMG-2685.jpg
Thank you. Going to give that a try.
 
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D.F.B

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I had been waiting for this, but it finally happened today....................the Mulchmaster's belt snapped. Thankfully, it was on the last mow, right across the road from home. This was the belt compromised by a botched repair, I'm surprised it lasted this long. With the belt in stock, I thought this would be a quick repair. But.....................

One of the tensioner pullies had separated from the bearing, the pully itself munted. Actually, the belt itself was still in tack, just, the pully had worked itself off the bearing and unhooked the belt. Looking at it, I would say the damaged belt heated the plastic up, galled up the lower skirt then popped off the bearing.

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With how damaged the plastic pully is, pressing back in place would simply shred a new belt in no time.

With that, I loaded up the parts manual, and of course, Victa only sell the complete tensioner pully arrangement.

https://bwmachinery.com.au/wp-conte...-Mulchmaster-560-Mower-2691588-Parts-List.pdf

Victa CH86896AW -

https://www.outdoorking.com.au/inde...t_info&cPath=1_17_88_275_306&products_id=8845

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While I have a belt in stock, I also ordered another to make the shipping worthwhile.

Victa CH85666A -

https://www.outdoorking.com.au/inde...t_info&cPath=1_17_88_275_603&products_id=8534

Oh, and pushing a 42+ kg Mulchmaster through thick grass with no drive is hard going! :confused:
 
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D.F.B

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Yesterday I left the Rover in the garage and relied solely on my new Victa. I couldn't help but smile at how it just got on with the job, even with me pushing it through thick Kikuyu at a shorter than normal cutting height. Thrown into the deep end and it just grunted right through it. I have always loved this engine, and this particular unit is no different. It just has bigger balls than the Honda GXV 160 and Krohler XT8. It sure likes a drink though! :drink:

Something I have never understood, Victa don't fit padded soft touch handles on commercial grade mowers. This is despite the majority of the domestic models having this feature. On the Commercial 21, the drive bale was actually rubbing the paint off the handle, so this modification addresses two things.

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This is handle wrap used on bikes, something I have used in the past on other mowers. In this case, its protecting the paint on the handle as well as providing a softer grip to grab onto.

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D.F.B

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Wash day for the Ranger, and a chance to try out a couple of new or revised additions.

I have been using the MTM PF22 foam cannon for nearly four years now, and its performance has never been in question. I currently have two of these foam cannons, one with the older bottle for Brake Buster, and one that I use for soap with the newer wide base bottle. I also still use my original Waxit foam cannon.

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The one main complaint leveled at the FP22 foam cannons has been the narrow bottle opening, something that makes filling and emptying much harder. I managed to get into a routine of filling the bottle with water first, then soap to limit the generation of frothy bubbles and an overflow situation.

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MTM knew they had to respond to the onslaught of newer competition sporting wide mouth bottles. And so, now we have access to the latest iteration of PF22.2 Foam Cannons with a redesigned bottle that mates to a plastic adaptor.






Now, with three fully functioning foam cannons, I certainly didn't need to buy another. Thankfully, MTM have thought about this and provide a retrofit kit consisting of the new bottle and adaptor plate.


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The black plastic adaptor is screwed onto the existing foam cannon body, nipping it up using firm pressure. I have seen a video where an additional rubber o-ring was fitted here to provide added threads for a tighter fit, but I really don't see the need. The adaptor is slotted to accept the tabs molded into the new bottle, which is then secured with an audible click.

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The adaptor also has a rubber o-ring to provide a leak proof seal.

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The great thing about this new adaptor is the ability to convert older foam cannons, so now each of my units have matching wide mouth bottles.

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Now, I have seen video's of the new setup where the user was complaining about the bayonet fitting, in particular unscrewing the foam cannon body from the adaptor by accident instead of unlocking the bottle. All I can say to that is they are doing it wrong. If you hold the black plastic adaptor and not the foam cannon body when turning, the bottle is easily attached and removed.

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From what I can see, if you order the complete foam cannon, MTM now include a weighted pickup tube. This addition helps maintain foaming when the bottle is low on solution and used at certain angles. However, this is not sent with the retrofit kits. I actually had a spare Kwazar weighted filter on hand and attached it to the existing tube, which worked very well.

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Rinsing the bottle out at the end was considerably easier, with far less reactivation and the ability to properly remove all of the remaining soap residue.

Today was also my first try of the newly reformulated P&S Radiance. This soap in its previous life was a classic wash-n-wax, the latest changes making it suitable for use on ceramic coatings. So in a sense, this is still a wash-n-wax in concept, just with the wax swapped for Si02.


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Filling the revised foam cannon is now a breeze!

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Now, I have never been a fan of these types of soap, mainly owing to the fact I just want the soap to clean and provide lubrication, any additional gloss or protection I want to add is done AFTER the wash. And so I went into using the new version of Radiance like any other example of a wash-n-wax.

The first thing to note is, DO NOT buy this product if you are expecting shaving cream foam, its just not a high foaming soap. That is fine by me because P&S don't make claims that it does (hello Auto Finesse).

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Slickness is decent, but nowhere near leaders such as KCx GSF or Carpro Reset. However, the rinse off is super easy and............the slickness it added to the Ranger was brilliant. Actually, I was quite surprised at how much slickness and gloss it added to the paint. Scent wise, it's very old-school car wash in that department................I guess the reformulation didn't include a scent change. As for the level of protection, again don't expect this to last very long, it's all about enhancement and not long-term durability.

Overall, I'm more impressed with P&S Radiance than I expected to be. The same applies to the updated FP22.2 foam cannon! After seeing a lot of negative media and comments on the new unit, my anticipation had been somewhat dampened. But I can also see why MTM went the route they chose with the updates, the actual foam cannon itself performed brilliantly, so a complete redesign was not needed. What they have delivered is an improvement on the original, helping it to function better. I also like that the retrofit kit is relatively cheap to update a current unit.
 
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ajohno

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Im starting to get low on a lot of my detailing products. Might have to look at some of the stuff you talk about.

I was looking at the Griots The Boss foam cannon as it has the big mouth. Matt from OG did a review awhile ago but now will review the ones you have as they look good.

Thanks for info.
 
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D.F.B

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Im starting to get low on a lot of my detailing products. Might have to look at some of the stuff you talk about.

I was looking at the Griots The Boss foam cannon as it has the big mouth. Matt from OG did a review awhile ago but now will review the ones you have as they look good.

Thanks for info.
Matt from OG rejected the new MTM foam cannon and decided to dump it in favor of the Griots Boss.

This was the comment made by an OG staff member regarding the new MTM -

".........We got a prototype for this months and months ago. When I heard that they had a solution for a wide mouth bottle, I was super excited only to be let down by this. No innovation, no ingenuity, just a bandaid to try to keep up. This paired with no other improvements is why we made the switch to the Griot's Foam Cannon..............."

From my point of view, the Griots has the same cannon body attached to an adaptor lid arrangement. Granted, the Griots has the metering tips, but I don't see the point of those. But I don't think the MTM is suddenly a **** foam cannon, in fact Matt even commented in a video that the Griots churns through more soap than the MTM. Only time will tell if the updates made to the PF22.2 pan out in terms of durability of the bayonet style arrangement.

The Griot's would also be harder to get in Australia, only one local retailer sells Griots products, but the range is limited to 4 products, the foam cannon not one of them.


Waxit actually offered a really good wide mouth foam cannon, but they dumped it for the MTM. The MJJC gets a lot of love, but I think the V3 version looks goofy, and their website is trash.


As much as I have moved away from Autoglym, their foam cannon is worth looking at.


Maxshine also have a couple of options -

 

cccoltsicehockey

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I bought the Griots foam cannon when I recently ordered my wall mount setup for the garage build. I have been using it for a couple weeks now. It is definitely better than my Chemical Guys Prime Day one I got a couple of years back. Won't say if it is any better than the MTM as I have never used one. I considered both and went with the Griots just cause it was on sale at the time.

I think the purpose of the metering tips with it are for their claim that you can run soap straight with no dilution. I have not messed with that yet. I have to say though if there really is a way to find the correct ratio to the right amount of soap but not wasting any without having to deal with doing a specific ratio each time I would be extremely impressed. However, I will play with that in a few months or a year once I have the majority of the garage situated. I know they already tell you the right tip for at least their soaps but in the past I have not been impressed with their soaps.
 

Tactile

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I think Matt goes with the product that gives him the best deal but more importantly, is open to the modifications to their products so he can own the IP if they change it for him. I have no problem with that, its just business. The problem for him is that the Euro companies that makes the best "base" products for him to do this are usually the most resistant to change and sometimes I can see his frustration with this.

Some of these companies in Europe have been doing what they have been doing for many decades (successfully) and dont see any reason to change a small component of their product for him (I would be the same), especially when then he demands he then has the sole distributorship rights to that modified product. And lets face it, his "ideas" are mostly crowd sourced anyway.
 
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D.F.B

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Just like the ceramic coating on this mower, the latest "modification" is completely pointless, but oh so necessary for my enjoyment. :D

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Yes, that's a muffler exhaust tip! Briggs and Stratton fit these to engines depending on what the customer is asking for. For example, a lot of Masport's with the earlier versions of the 850 engine came with one as standard.



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The one on my Mulchmaster has been on a few mowers now, I grabbed it off a Masport before I traded it in.

Briggs and Stratton also sell these as a spare part. There are now two versions of this tip, the earlier example above has a smaller diameter outlet, the latest is much bigger and fits the newer engines. This larger version will also fit the domestic engines with the QPT muffler, mostly the 163cc variants.

Breaks & Scrapem Part Number - 594563

I'm not going to post a link for the part as that would show how much I shelled out for two of these things from the USA! :rolleyes:

Before -

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So the question is, pointing down or to the side?

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I think to the side.............or maybe pointing up? :sneaky:
 
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