The Vintage Craftsman GP Motor Thread

[11b30b4]

No worries, questions like this are what this thread is about.

 

[Hideintire]

Sorry for the slow response.

Here is picture of ring and spring assembly. Does not appear to be defective. Springs are in place. Retracts easily.

Any idea why it might not retract when under power? What might have caused the extreme wear on copper lever? (See previous picture) Could 30+ years of use in a machine shop environment be the probable cause?
Thanks again for the help!
Jim

 

[FrankLee]

I suspect that the centrifugal assembly is working properly and the problem is with the switch spring arm.
I also suspect that when the motor is running, the disk retracts enough to open the capacitor circuit, but not enough to lift off the spring arm.

 

[Hideintire]

Thank you Frank. I'll give it a try and respond back.

 

[FrankLee]

Thank you Frank. I'll give it a try and respond back.

There is another possibility that something broke off the terminal board that prevents the arm from rising too far.

 

[Hideintire]

Frank, I did as you suggested. The ring assembly lifts clear of the copper arm and the arm lifts clear of the contact. I have to assume the wear on arm is from the 30+ years of use in my shop. It never saw a tremendous amount of use, but the oily environment, on top of use, must have been part of it. The switch plate, and for that matter, the entire drill press was covered in caked on grease.
Thank you for the help! I'm sure once repaired and cleaned the old drill press will again function properly. And now that its in my garage, it will see very limited use.

 

[FrankLee]

Frank, I did as you suggested. The ring assembly lifts clear of the copper arm and the arm lifts clear of the contact. I have to assume the wear on arm is from the 30+ years of use in my shop. It never saw a tremendous amount of use, but the oily environment, on top of use, must have been part of it. The switch plate, and for that matter, the entire drill press was covered in caked on grease.
Thank you for the help! I'm sure once repaired and cleaned the old drill press will again function properly. And now that its in my garage, it will see very limited use.

I agree. Happy to help!

 

[jd5000]

The wires in these old craftsman motors are very brittle. Would it be a good idea to put some heat shrink tubing over the wires to make them a little stronger? Or would that cause a problem?

Also, what is a good lube to use to repack the ball bearings if they are still good?

 

[Nutria]

Also, what is a good lube to use to repack the ball bearings if they are still good?

I've been happy with Mobil Polyrex electric motor grease for bearings.

 

[micromind]

I've been happy with Mobil Polyrex electric motor grease for bearings.

That's what the factory uses in about 90% of the new motor I install.

A word of caution.....don't mix Polyrex with any other type of grease, the result will be a sticky gooey mess that doesn't lubricate anything.

 

[jd5000]

Do a search on youtube for replacing lead wires in vintage motor or something similar. I use stranded copper 16 gauge silicone high temp wire. I use **** connectors and cut the existing wires about 1" from the windings. I only replace wires if they are brittle or the shielding is in a bad state. If they are just old but are in good condition, I do not replace them.

Do the **** connectors need to be high temp too? Do any of your videos show you doing this?

 

[jd5000]

I've been happy with Mobil Polyrex electric motor grease for bearings.

Thanks, I'm just wondering. I have a can of Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease. Would this work for repacking wheel bearings?

 

[11b30b4]

JD, the **** connectors I use are not high temp but If I am connecting a lead wire from the stator I normally use silicone high temp heat shrink or high temp electrical tape. I may be wrong, but I thought the reason the lead wires are high temp is the amount of current not the internal temp of the motor.

 

[Nutria]

I have a can of Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease. Would this work for repacking wheel bearings?

I would not use that grease for automotive wheel bearings or for electric motor bearings. I'm no grease expert though.

 

[11b30b4]

Agreed, I use Mobil Polyrex electric motor grease for bearings

 

[Pittsjock]

Greetings Gents.

I have a 50' era Homart Cooler with a Craftsman 1/3 two speed 115.7042. The fan has been sitting in my basement since we installed AC in our old house about a decade ago. I decided to repurpose the fan into my garage workshop. After a quick oiling and little cleanup, she fired right up, but the cord was clearly in need of replacement.
A buddy of mine stopped by today as I was getting ready to replace the cord. He managed to remove the switch wires and the power cord without any pictures and without me seeing any of the wiring. I thought I understood what I needed to do, but I could not get the motor to power back up. Pretty sure no damage was done.

Wiring help most appreciated.

 

[jd5000]

I found this, but there's no explanation as to what is earlier and what is later.


but I have a K4 52 motor that I can check tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share...g.1theTbKSCQ5NdhLnbsjv0f?tag=atomicindus08-20


If you're looking to replace with a cylindrical cap, I've had very good luck with Airstar Supply... made in USA and free shipping on most things.

Hi Frank, I have a 1/2 hp motor that is missing the sardine capacitor. Are you still recommending Airstar supply for a replacement? Do you know which model of capacitor to order?

Thanks

 

[FrankLee]

Hi Frank, I have a 1/2 hp motor that is missing the sardine capacitor. Are you still recommending Airstar supply for a replacement?

Yes, but new flat capacitors are no longer available. You'll need to make a spacer to raise the base, or relocate the new capacitor.

Do you know which model of capacitor to order?

No.

What is your model number, rpm, and date code on the badge?


It sure would be nice if there were a database with this info.

Thanks

 

[jd5000]

Yes, but new flat capacitors are no longer available. You'll need to make a spacer to raise the base, or relocate the new capacitor.


No.

What is your model number, rpm, and date code on the badge?


It sure would be nice if there were a database with this info.

It is a 1/2 HP 1750 rpm 115 volt 50 cycle 6.7 amp type CNB-K8 115-6982 and I think A4-48

I plugged this sardine capacitor from another motor and it ran (I only ran it for 5 seconds though) so I know the motor works. But, I'm not sure if it is the right size even though that is a 1/2 hp 1750, too.

 

[FrankLee]

It is a 1/2 HP 1750 rpm 115 volt 50 cycle 6.7 amp type CNB-K8 115-6982 and I think A4-48

I plugged this sardine capacitor from another motor and it ran (I only ran it for 5 seconds though) so I know the motor works. But, I'm not sure if it is the right size even though that is a 1/2 hp 1750, too.

I believe your model number is 115.6962.

I looked through several years of my photos and found four 6962 motors with a snapshot of the capacitor specs. However, all four motors were later than yours, 1952 to 1954. All four had the same 124-155 mfd specs as your test.

I'm no expert and won't make any recommendation. If you call Airstar, they should be able to help.

 

[jd5000]

I believe your model number is 115.6962.

I looked through several years of my photos and found four 6962 motors with a snapshot of the capacitor specs. However, all four motors were later than yours, 1952 to 1954. All four had the same 124-155 mfd specs as your test.

I'm no expert and won't make any recommendation. If you call Airstar, they should be able to help.

Thanks Frank, I asked Airstar and ordered what they recommended.

BTW, do you know of any post or video where someone made a spacer for the newer capacitor?

 

[FrankLee]

BTW, do you know of any post or video where someone made a spacer for the newer capacitor?

I know there are a couple posts here. You'll have to search.

 

[tubes_rule]

Tubes, what are you using this motor on? The RPMs are 3450, for a table saw that is good but for a band saw or drill press that is too fast. I did not find a diagram for this motor but if your capacitor is round and sits inside the stator this this should help. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6042.pdf

Hi, back to the motor question, the motor works but is got a intermittent issue. Sometimes it just hangs there won't go full power or it cycles slowly, drawing too much power if i leave it on. Now I took it apart before, nothing weird found measure the can is well with in spec. Now the only, way to get the motor to work properly after the hang up, is to tap very gently on the pulley side(arbor) I mean super gently, sometimes if I spin the blade by hand it also works.Any ideas ??
Thanks
rey

 

[micromind]

The centrifugal start switch is hanging up. If it doesn't disengage the start winding, the start and run windings will fight with each other and the result will be very high current and very little power.

Tapping on the shaft will loosen up the switch so it works.

 

[tubes_rule]

The centrifugal start switch is hanging up. If it doesn't disengage the start winding, the start and run windings will fight with each other and the result will be very high current and very little power.

Tapping on the shaft will loosen up the switch so it works.

Thanks for the very informative reply, how do I fix it. I did play with before, but I don't know anything about the centrifugal switch.
Thanks

 

[miter19]

Good afternoon -

I apologize if this not the correct place to ask my question ... I've been searching thru the site for a bit and this seemed to make sense.

I have just unboxed a Craftsman General Purpose & Power Tool Motor - 3/4 HP 3450 RPM 113.12262 from my late father's possessions.
It was still sealed in the box and probably sitting on a shelf in his workshop for 30-40-? years. I was wondering if someone could perhaps offer some help as to how old it may be using the info in the pic. Are there any inherent issues that may arise from something sitting unused for so long. And if anyone would like to give an opinion on it's value, that would be great. At my mother's request, I am trying to sell his tons of tools, some like this still unopened.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Beerhippie]

Here's a 113 split-phase w/sleeve bearings I picked up the other day:





I don't plan to completely refurbish the motor, just clean it up and get it back into use as it runs just fine as it is.

Any advice on getting a new sticker for it? Once I clean it, that "ghost" will be gone.

 

[Cruzan80]

@miter19 , I would say at least 1980s or newer. The M12007 on the tag may represent Jan '07, not sure.

 

[miter19]

@miter19 , I would say at least 1980s or newer. The M12007 on the tag may represent Jan '07, not sure.

Thanks

 

[FrankLee]

I was wondering if someone could perhaps offer some help as to how old it may be using the info in the pic.

The MFG NO, 11853, is the date code; November’85.

Are there any inherent issues that may arise from something sitting unused for so long.

I don’t think so. Plug it in and listen for anything unusual.

And if anyone would like to give an opinion on it's value, that would be great.

I’m not sure if NOS makes it worth much more.
I’d probably list it for $100. Opinions may vary on that.

Where are you located?

 

[miter19]

The MFG NO, 11853, is the date code; November’85.

I don’t think so. Plug it in and listen for anything unusual.

I’m not sure if NOS makes it worth much more.
I’d probably list it for $100. Opinions may vary on that.

Where are you located?

Thank you so much...Latham, NY

 

[Cruzan80]

Beerhippie, I may have a replacement. I had one that just died on me and I saved the middle band in case I got another similar one. Let me check. If not, it is probably just the generic CM crown top logo. Find it logo @ VM or others, resize to match, print sticker, replace.

 

[Beerhippie]

Beerhippie, I may have a replacement. I had one that just died on me and I saved the middle band in case I got another similar one. Let me check. If not, it is probably just the generic CM crown top logo. Find it logo @ VM or others, resize to match, print sticker, replace.

Well, if I had a sticker printer, that would be the way to go. Wasn't there someone here making repros a while back? Anyone have a contact?

This would have had the Craftsman crown with General Purpose Motor below.

 

[Cruzan80]

Sorry, I meant a general inkjet printer with sticker paper... Would at least get you something.

 

[micromind]

That motor has sleeve bearings, they need to be oiled once in a while. After sitting for that long, the bearings are dry and will seize up if not oiled.

The first thing I'd do is oil the bearings. There could be small rubber plugs in the oil holes, one on each end. Remove the plugs, put about 20 drops of oil into the holes (electric motor oil is best, 10W or 20W will work well too) and leave it sit for a couple of days before starting it.

 

[miter19]

That motor has sleeve bearings, they need to be oiled once in a while. After sitting for that long, the bearings are dry and will seize up if not oiled.

The first thing I'd do is oil the bearings. There could be small rubber plugs in the oil holes, one on each end. Remove the plugs, put about 20 drops of oil into the holes (electric motor oil is best, 10W or 20W will work well too) and leave it sit for a couple of days before starting it.

Thank You

 

[Snip's]

Well, if I had a sticker printer, that would be the way to go. Wasn't there someone here making repros a while back? Anyone have a contact?

This would have had the Craftsman crown with General Purpose Motor below.

I reconditioned the same Craftsman motor awhile back and also need a replacement sticker...
You might want to contact GJ member Matt Blast for a reproduction...
He made mine and did an excellent job...

 

[Beerhippie]

I reconditioned the same Craftsman motor awhile back and also need a replacement sticker...
You might want to contact GJ member Matt Blast for a reproduction...
He made mine and did an excellent job...

Thanks! That was the fellow I was looking for, but didn't want to search through five pages of posts to find.

 

[bearmarm]

I have a Duro band saw with a nonfunctioning 115.5228 1/2 hp Crafstman motor. I'm guessing it is from between 1936 and 1945. Should I bother trying to fix it given that everything is probably bad on it? Seems a new and stronger one would be much less frustration.

 

[bearmarm]

Here it is.