Thank you for your quick response! I’m not seeing any marks necessarily. But there is this tab on the top, and these two notches it fits perfectly in. Am I right to assume one is for clockwise, and the other is counterclockwise?
The Vintage Craftsman GP Motor Thread
- Thread starter 11b30b4
- Start date
Hoorn
Well-known member
Yes sir. Repulsion induction motor must be set to rotate one way or the other otherwise it will typically hum if it is in the intermediate or neutral position.
Thank you so much for your help! Works like new. She runs so smoothly now it’s incredible. This is what I have it on
Attachments
Hoorn
Well-known member
@Bogie83 no problem, glad it runs well for you. As I mentioned, your commutator copper is worn down and at best level with the neutral material between.
Should you notice sparking or a rough start, lack of initial power or actually hear that the brushes are "bouncing", that is due to the black material between the copper teeth. That material is mica and is harder than the copper. Were you to cut that mica a 16th below the surface of the copper that would be great, 1/8" and you'll never have to do it again as long as you live.
Should you notice sparking or a rough start, lack of initial power or actually hear that the brushes are "bouncing", that is due to the black material between the copper teeth. That material is mica and is harder than the copper. Were you to cut that mica a 16th below the surface of the copper that would be great, 1/8" and you'll never have to do it again as long as you live.
gleman
Well-known member
gleman
Well-known member
Bone dry but 20wt to the rescue!
The sawdust was gross.
The wiring was sketchy.
Flattening out the mounting bracket.
Gleman, there is a member of Vintage Machinery that posted pics of this motor. You may want to reach out to them for assistance.
Also, this ¾ hp 3450 rpm motor # 397.19241 looks close to your motor and may help you out. Here is the owner’s manual.
Also, this ¾ hp 3450 rpm motor # 397.19241 looks close to your motor and may help you out. Here is the owner’s manual.
gleman
Well-known member
No worries. She purrs now.
Drawing 7 3/4 amps at no load.
I wasn't too thrilled with the body paint and I'll try to hunt down some Champagne Mist and redo it next spring.
I think I'll use it for a diy buffer or if I get around to rehabbing a drill press I've had kicking around.
Drawing 7 3/4 amps at no load.
I wasn't too thrilled with the body paint and I'll try to hunt down some Champagne Mist and redo it next spring.
I think I'll use it for a diy buffer or if I get around to rehabbing a drill press I've had kicking around.
There's a lot of information about re-conditioning these old motors but I haven't seen very much mentioned about the wires inside of them. Mine are in poor condition but I'm not sure what type of wire to use as a replacement. I have an ample supply of THHN stranded wire. Thoughts?
Do a search on youtube for replacing lead wires in vintage motor or something similar. I use stranded copper 16 gauge silicone high temp wire. I use **** connectors and cut the existing wires about 1" from the windings. I only replace wires if they are brittle or the shielding is in a bad state. If they are just old but are in good condition, I do not replace them.
blawson327
Member
Did you take the wiring end off to access that bearing? Was there a trick to getting it off? I have a very similar motor and got the fan end and bearing out, but struggling with the wiring end endcap.
gleman
Well-known member
I guess I didn't save pics. Mine was really clogged with sawdust and I'm guessing grease from the previous owner.
I ended up lag bolting it to a scrap board and rachet strapped the body around my work bench.
There were two slots on the end caps and I used junk screwdrivers to get equal pressure and slowly pry and wriggle them off at the same time.
If I recall, I had to put the fan side back on and do it that way because the wire side was really stuck too!
I hope that helps!
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blawson327
Member
yea, i think that helps. to get the fan side off i hit the shaft with a rubber mallet enough to get it to let go of the main body and start off the bearing. Then i could get a puller under the end cap lip.
I cant use a puller with the wiring end, cause theres no shaft to push on, but that sounds like it will work to get the end off the "hidden" shaft in the bearing, especially now that its off the main body housing.
blawson327
Member
That did it. Was able to get the end cap off without too much difficulty. Here's some pictures incase anyone else runs across this thread like I did!
Attachments
gleman
Well-known member
Excellent!
Found this thread on the CM motors and thought I would post some completed pic's of my 113,19351...
The motor insides were caked with sawdust and the switch contacts needed cleaning bad...
I used Krylon Matte Coffee Bean on the end bells and Rust-Oleum Champagne Mist on the Stator cover...
I disassembled and cleaned it with CRC Lectra-Motive and used Protexall Super Slick Stuff on the centrifugal switch mechanism...
I re-oiled the felt wicks with 20W ND oil... Replaced the electrical cord with a grounded plug...
Put it back together and it sounds so nice now... It was satisfying restoring this CM motor...
I'll need to contact Matt Blast to see if he can provide me with a new Craftsman sticker...
And thanks to you Jeff, it was very helpful watching your Youtube videos, before I took this motor to task...
The motor insides were caked with sawdust and the switch contacts needed cleaning bad...
I used Krylon Matte Coffee Bean on the end bells and Rust-Oleum Champagne Mist on the Stator cover...
I disassembled and cleaned it with CRC Lectra-Motive and used Protexall Super Slick Stuff on the centrifugal switch mechanism...
I re-oiled the felt wicks with 20W ND oil... Replaced the electrical cord with a grounded plug...
Put it back together and it sounds so nice now... It was satisfying restoring this CM motor...
I'll need to contact Matt Blast to see if he can provide me with a new Craftsman sticker...
And thanks to you Jeff, it was very helpful watching your Youtube videos, before I took this motor to task...
Attachments
FrankLee
Well-known member
Very nice!
I really like the simplicity of these '60s-'70s motors and enjoy refurbishing them. I recently completed a 113.19352 and a 113.12130, but you did a much nicer job with the repaint.
Thanks for the compliment FrankLee... You have way more experience with the Craftsman brand than I will ever have...
My trick is to not be tempted to touch it like I tended to do in the past...
Once painted, I ignore it for 24 hours... No matter how tempting it is to touch the painted parts...
My trick is to not be tempted to touch it like I tended to do in the past...
Once painted, I ignore it for 24 hours... No matter how tempting it is to touch the painted parts...
FrankLee
Well-known member
FrankLee
Well-known member
I found this, but there's no explanation as to what is earlier and what is later.
but I have a K4 52 motor that I can check tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/u5QHF4zmTF2QFREtcH-26g.1theTbKSCQ5NdhLnbsjv0f
If you're looking to replace with a cylindrical cap, I've had very good luck with Airstar Supply... made in USA and free shipping on most things.
but I have a K4 52 motor that I can check tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/u5QHF4zmTF2QFREtcH-26g.1theTbKSCQ5NdhLnbsjv0f
If you're looking to replace with a cylindrical cap, I've had very good luck with Airstar Supply... made in USA and free shipping on most things.
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FrankLee
Well-known member
Shiftless
Well-known member
In to learn more about motors
Coolerman
Well-known member
I am finishing up the restoration of a Craftsman 150 drill press Model 103.24521.
This drill press came with a Craftsman Model 115.19680 1/2 HP General purpose motor. I have cleaned it, installed new bearings, cleaned the start switch contacts and painted it. Now what I need is a motor data decal to replace the one that was on it. See attached pic of my decal.
Is anyone making these decals?
This drill press came with a Craftsman Model 115.19680 1/2 HP General purpose motor. I have cleaned it, installed new bearings, cleaned the start switch contacts and painted it. Now what I need is a motor data decal to replace the one that was on it. See attached pic of my decal.
Is anyone making these decals?
Coolerman, yes Matt Blast here on GJ makes them. He did some for me.
PM him or post in his thread here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/vintage-grinder-sticker-reproduction.356439/
PM him or post in his thread here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/vintage-grinder-sticker-reproduction.356439/
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Seagoer
Active member
I have 3 of the old motors I'm trying to rebuild. But all 3 are missing a spring for the centrifugal switch. I tried taking a spring off a 4th motor but it broke in the attempt because it was to rusty. Does anyone know of a source for these springs? I might be able to make them with music wire but getting the proper pull tension sounds challenging.
I was requested to outline some of my comparison information about Vintage Craftsman General Purpose Motors by a fellow GJ member. Most of this information was available on the forum prior to the 2021 forum update but has been lost or difficult to locate ever since.
I am not an electrician and my knowledge of motors in general is fairly limited, but I will endeavor to provide some relevant information here. If you are restoring a vintage piece of Craftsman powered tool equipment, chances are you will have one of these motors or a variation of one outlined here.
I welcome your comments, questions, input, and contributions to this thread so that we can all have a resource to assist others.
Craftsman sold most of their power tool equipment in the pre and post WWII eras without motors. You would buy a drill press or similar tool and mount a motor to the tool. Almost all of these tools were belt driven and required an ac motor ranging from ¼ - 2 HP depending on the tool and the needs of the user. These motors typically came in three RPM variations: 1725 RPM, 1750 RPM, and 3450 RPM.
Drill Presses and other tools used 1725/ 1750 RPM motors in 1/4HP, 1/3HP, 1/2HP, 1 HP, and 2HP; although ½ HP seems to be the most common. Table Saws, Sander, Jointers, and other tools used 3450 RPM motors in similar HP ratings. Almost all of these motors were thermally protected utilizing a Klixon Thermal protection switch incorporated into the motor housing.
Most of these motors were not wired with a power cord when purchased and it was left to the owner to wire the motor for their application. Further, most of these motors were reversible and often had dual shaft configurations.
The majority of these motors were capacitor start motors, but a few were split phase motors. Lastly, most of these motors utilized ball bearings; however, a few utilized sleeve bearings. I will try to break down these differences and explain some general design features of these motors before we start to look at the various motors themselves.
Like I said, I am not an electrician so speaking intelligently about horsepower or amperage are not in my skill set. I typically follow the recommend HP listed in the owner’s manual for the power tool I am rebuilding. Since we are talking about vintage machinery, most of the time these tools will include a motor that the previous owner (PO) affixed to the equipment. This is not a given that the PO utilized the correct motor and there are times where the PO used a non-Craftsman motor. I prefer to replace the motor in these instances with a period correct Craftsman motor.
Another thing to be aware of is that Craftsman did not make these motors. Craftsman contacted motor manufacturers to produce these motors for the Craftsman line of tools. This means that most of these motors were produced by GE, Dunlap, Emerson, Packard Electric, Sunlight Electric, Delco to name a few.
Your first starting point for vintage Craftsman powered tools and the motors is the Vintage Machinery site here:
On the Sears Craftsman page, you can find most of the user manuals and parts diagrams you need to rebuild your vintage tools (look for the publication reprints tab). There is a photo index of powered tools as well as a ton of information. One of the first things you should notice is the list of known makers. This list has links to the actual manufacturer of Craftsman power tool you are researching. Locate the model number of what you are looking for and the prefix should lead you to the manufacturer. For example, the 115.6962 motor has a prefix of 115 and was manufactured for Craftsman by the Sunlight Electrical Manufacturing Company or Packard Electric Company. This will aid in determining the age of your tool and possible date of manufacturing.
One of the largest Craftsman power tool communities here on GJ is the Classic Craftsman King Seeley Drill Press thread started by the Awesome FrankLee. In determining the age of these amazing drill presses (DP) we often look for date stamps on the motors associated with the DPs as well as the dates on the capacitors. In general, we can determine the date of manufacturing within a few years with this information along with design features known to evolve in the 4 decades these machines were made.
So you have a power tool and you need a motor, you locate the owner’s manual for your tool on Vintage Machinery and it says you need a ½ HP 1725 RPM motor or you already have a motor but you do not know what type motor you have. Do you need or have a split phase or capacitor start motor? What is the difference between the two and is one better than the other?
Split Phase vs Capacitor Start Motors
Induction motors use an electromagnetic process produced by the run windings in the stator to spin the rotor/ shaft. This rotation on most of the motors we will discuss is reversible to suit the needs of the user. Regardless, induction motors need something extra to interrupt the normal phase of the energized run windings to start the spinning of the rotor. For the motors we are discussing here, there are two methods to accomplish this. If there is no interruption in the run phase of the windings a rotor will likely just wiggle back and forth a very small amount and the motor will hum. On a capacitor start motor this normally means the capacitor is bad. On a split phase motor, this normally means there is a problem with the start phase windings (possibly a break in the winding).
A Capacitor start motor will have a capacitor attached to the motor. In the 115 series motor it is a sardine can size rectangle enclose in the base of the motor. On a 397 series motor, the capacitor may be inside the motor housing or attached to the outside of the stator band in a covered hump. There are motors with more than one capacitor, but we are not going to discuss those motors in this thread. In general terms, a capacitor start motor will start with more torque and more efficiency than a split phase motor. Further, if the capacitor is bad, you can replace it and most likely the motor will run fine.
A split phase motor interrupts the phase of the run windings by energizing a second set of windings in the stator. This second set of windings is referred to as the start phase windings. There will most likely not be a capacitor on these motors, and you should be able to see a physical difference between he two types of windings inside the stator. Regardless, if the motor refuses to start, it is likely there is a break in the start phase windings and fixing this will more than likely be difficult. For this reason, I prefer the capacitor start motor over the split phase motor.
Lastly, when you turn an induction motor on there is a centrifugal switch on the rotor that at a certain rotation speed disengages the start phase of the motor. On a capacitor start motor, this switch disconnects the capacitor. On a split phase motor this switch cuts power to the start phase windings. If you have a motor that will start but then starts to smoke, it is likely the centrifugal switch failing to cut power to the capacitor or start phase windings. When you turn off the motor, as it spins down you should hear a single click. That is the centrifugal switch returning to the start position. If you do not hear this click, you may a problem. I have taken these switches apart to clean, but I have had some bad experiences with switches that worked fine before I disassembled them and later failed to operate correctly. Now I don’t really mess with them and choose to leave them intact during my cleaning process.
Bearings- Ball bearings and Sleeve Bearings
Ball bearings come in an insane number of sizes, types, and variations for an equally insane number of applications. Before we deep dive into ball bearings, what type of ball bearings do you need for your motor? If you have located your owner’s manual on Vintage Machinery and you look at the parts diagram you may see a part number associated with the ball bearing. Something like Part No. 908502 Ball Bearing – New Departure. Well this is some help, but it will take a bit more to locate and order a replacement ball bearing for your motor. So, some intelligent people on Vintage Machinery built a Craftsman Replacement Ball Bearing List for us all to use. Here is the link:
Ball bearings for these motors are typically single row, deep groove, shielded (one side) ball bearings. Some will have extended races, and some will have metric measurements but require a very specific 5/8” inner diameter. There are shielded, sealed and open versions of most of the bearings.
Shielded and Open Bearings
Shielded bearings have a metal shield covering the balls on one side and a double shielded bearing will have a metal shielded on both sides of the bearing. These are pictures of a New Departure 8502 Radial/Deep Groove Ball Bearing One Side Single Seal and One Side Open. This is the actual bearing that is used in the 115 motor and is Craftsman Part No. 908502. Note that typically an open sided ball bearing will have a felt or wool washer inside the motor that will protect the open side.
In the first pic notice the nomenclature stamped into the shield “ND 8502 MADE IN USA”. Often these bearing companies are no longer in business; however, you can still find new/ old stock of these bearings on ebay or you can find comparable bearings from other manufacturers.
Sealed Ball Bearings
Very similar to shielded bearings, sealed bearings use a synthetic material to seal the bearing. Plastics and other materials are normally used and are often black, red, green or blue in color. Sealed ball bearings are typically sealed on both sides and the nomenclature is stamped into the seal or on the edge of the race. In the picture above you can see this is an 88503 bearing. There is no manufacturer name on the bearing, and these are most likely made in china. This is a replacement bearing for the New Departure 88503 felt seal bearing used on Delta grinders. The original New Departure bearing was a one side shielded felt seal bearing. Also note this bearing is an extended race bearing. The race of a bearing is the metal wall on the outside and inside the bore of the bearing. On this bearing the extended race is the inner race, and this ensures a larger coverage of the rotor shaft.
So why are there shielded and sealed bearings? Well one difference is the tolerance the bearing has inside. Depending on application, a ball bearing is made with more or less tolerance to balance speed, use and friction. Another difference is friction itself. Typically, a sealed bearing will generate more friction and produce more heat. Over time this can shorten the life of the bearing but ensure a contaminate free interior. Again, there are millions of uses for ball bearings and most likely an equal number of bearing types. For motors and most other vintage tools, I prefer shielded bearings, but I have used sealed bearings in these applications with no ill effects. I am not a fan of the open ball bearing and when I replace an OEM bearing, I try to do so with a double shielded bearing.
Lastly, the biggest difference in shielded and sealed bearings is more than likely, the price. Sealed bearings are the most common and are almost always cheaper than shielded and even open bearings. For replacement bearings, if you locate new/ old stock on ebay you can pay about $40.00 for a new departure bearing but the same bearing from china may cost $4.00. I recommend you buy bearings from Accurate bearings here:
Bearing Supplier Leader In USA & International | Same-Day Shipping
Top US & international bearing supplier of electric motor bearings and power transmission parts with no minimum orders and same-day shipping. Accurate Bearing Company is the industry's value leader.www.accuratebearing.com
You will need measurements for the bearing, and you can use this chart to figure out what you need.
If you are ordering bearings from an Asia manufacturer, Japanese manufacturers are higher quality than almost all the Chinese manufacturers. In the end, bearings are an extremely important component in your tool or motor and ensures a level of accuracy and smooth operation. If you plan on opening up a motor or tool to clean/ paint it, then go ahead and take the time to replace the bearings with quality bearings. This is a fairly simple and cheap thing you can do to tune up that tool.
Sleeve Bearings
Sleeve Bearings are simple a wool or felt wick stuffed into a cavity on the end frames of a motor. The wool or felt is lubricated with oil and there is a thin metal shield between the wick and the rotor shaft.
In this picture you can make out the thin metal shield that is the bore for the rotor shaft. behind the shield you can make out the felt wick.
In this pic you can see a rubber cap in the bottom of the pic below the data plate. on a sleeve bearing motor there will be two of these rubber caps, one on each end frame to lubricate each sleeve bearing. I am sure there is some chart out there that tells you how often you should lubricate the sleeve bearings, but I just do it every year and that seems to work for me.
You can imagine that if you over lube the sleeve bearings and the motor is place vertically, it will more than likely leak oil. The mess in general and the less efficient nature of a sleeve bearing makes this my least desirable type of motor to use. It seems to me that the sleeve bearings and split phase motors both seem to be cost cutting methods in motor design; however, like I said, I am not an electrician.
Now let’s talk Craftsman motors.
115.6962 Motor
These are probably the most common and iconic vintage Craftsman motors. There are several motors numbers in this family that are essentially the same motor but in different HPs and RPMs. They are capacitor start ball bearing motors and although there are several similar models, I will talk specifically about the 115.6962 Motor. Most Craftsman general purpose motors were never equipped with on/ off switches; however, it is not uncommon to find an on/off switch in one side of the base and the power cord projecting from the other side of the base.
This motor is 32.5 pounds and is 12 ½” long from shaft ends. The housing is 8 5/8” long and 6 ¼” in diameter. The dual rotor shafts are non-keyed ½” shafts; however, the bearings engage the rotor shaft at a wider part and require a 15mm bore.
In this pic you can see the two end frames, they are made of cast iron as is the base. The terminal cover, switch shield, air cone, and condenser shield are all made of sheet steel. The two felt retainer discs are also in the pic as well as the rotor.
This is the centrifugal switch on the rotor of a 115 motor
This is the stator of a 115 motor. Notice the Klixon thermal protection switch (red button) and the lead wires running to the terminal board and switch assembly for the centrifugal switch.
The lead wires in many of these motors are very stiff and brittle. They have a fabric heat shielding on them that is probably asbestos or similar dangerous material. Exercise care when working with these wires to not break them, if they break close to the windings, it will be very hard to replace them. If you do need to replace a lead wire or extend a broken one, you need to use a high heat lead wire like 16-gauge stranded silicone insulated wire.
This is a pic of the terminal end frame. note the back side of the Klixon, terminal board, and switch assembly for the centrifugal switch in the center. When the motor is at rest or spinning slowly the centrifugal switch is extended on the rotor shaft and is in contact with this switch allowing power to the capacitor (or in a split phase motor, to the start phase windings). Once the rotor spins to a specific speed, the fingers on the centrifugal switch spread and compress the switch causing it to disengage the switch assembly.
This pic is a outside looking in of the terminal board. Notice the two lead wires visible, these can be reversed to reverse the direction of the motor rotation.
In this pic you can see (from left to right) the end frame, open side of the ball bearing, spring washer, fiber gasket, end cap, felt seal, and felt seal cover. One of the cool design features of these 115 motors is that you can access the bearing without opening the motor.
This is another pic of a terminal end frame; however, notice the metal rectangle on the right side. This is the capacitor on these old 115 motors. These are commonly referred to as sardine can capacitors and are no longer produced. If your capacitor is bad, you will need to replace it with a similar spec round capacitor. This is one of the drawbacks of these motors, there is very little room in the base of the motor and a round capacitor will not fit into the base without some modification. A search for Hoorn here on the GJ should provide some pics for how he fabricated a spacer for a motor to fit a round capacitor.
This pic is the data stamped on one of these sardine can capacitors. Should you need to replace the capacitor make sure you get a comparable one with similar rated MFD and voltage. Also, note the date of manufacture 5-2-50. Chances are this motor was purchased with the drill press it was affixed to and could help in determining the age of the drill press.
One of the largest benefits to the 115 motor is that it cleans up nicely. Just cleaning and repainting are fairly simple but the stator band on these motors was removable and often the original is too far gone.
The original stator band was a polished steel band with satin 1/8” lines on it. In the pic above you can see some of the original finish that was left under the data plate. I prefer to use a piece of sheet aluminum cut to the same size.
Next, I polish the aluminum
Then I apply 1/8” vinyl masking and scuff the exposed aluminum with a scotch-brite pad.
The finished product is fairly close to the original.
With new bearings, a fresh coat of paint and a newly fabricated stator band, this motor looks and runs great.
That covers this update, I will expand on other motors in the coming days.
Thanks for the interest.
Attachments
I ordered some from McMaster Carr for one of my motors and they worked perfectly. Item 9654K819.
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Hi 11b30b4, thank you so much. I've ordered from them before and they deliver in only a day or two. I'll order a package today. Do you happen to know a source and type of motor lacing. I need to replace a couple of motor leads and will have to cut the lacing to do so. Was thinking of using small zip ties was I'm thinking zip ties might not hold up to heat and age.I ordered some from McMaster Carr for one of my motors and they worked perfectly. Item 9654K819.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
zip ties are a no-go unless they are high temp. Any lead wires that need to be replaced also need to be hi temp. I use Silicone stranded 16 gauge and twin I use is bakers twine. Its high temp and fairly cheap. Once I have everything squared away, I apply a spray on dielectric red insulating varnish like E-motor notions EL601.
Hello All,
Related to the 1/2HP 1750RPM Craftsman Motor 115.6962, I am curious to hear thoughts on the "best" orientation of the motor, when mounted in the vertical position. It would seem the design is not particularly confidence inspiring regardless of which end of the motor is pointing "up." The bearings are not fully captured - no snap ring keepers, no interference fit, nothing to firmly maintain a "correctly centered" position of the armature along the axis of the motor. Gravity will eventually wrestle the armature downward until the weight is born by the "bottom" end cap disk (held in place by four small screws). I suppose the bearing spring would provide a bit of cushion to the armature's downward travel, if the open end of the motor is in the lower position.)
Anyways - what is the consensus - should the overload protector end be in the upper or lower position?
Related to the 1/2HP 1750RPM Craftsman Motor 115.6962, I am curious to hear thoughts on the "best" orientation of the motor, when mounted in the vertical position. It would seem the design is not particularly confidence inspiring regardless of which end of the motor is pointing "up." The bearings are not fully captured - no snap ring keepers, no interference fit, nothing to firmly maintain a "correctly centered" position of the armature along the axis of the motor. Gravity will eventually wrestle the armature downward until the weight is born by the "bottom" end cap disk (held in place by four small screws). I suppose the bearing spring would provide a bit of cushion to the armature's downward travel, if the open end of the motor is in the lower position.)
Anyways - what is the consensus - should the overload protector end be in the upper or lower position?
FrankLee
Well-known member
KS, I think FrankLee covered this nicely, but I will add a few observations.
I do not believe that gravity has a significant effect on the motor. The electromagnetic force that is created by the stator will force the rotor to center regardless of its orientation and everything I have seen with the many 6962’s that I have completely rebuilt demonstrates to me that the motor is very well built and designed.
My very first 100 drill press rebuild was a 1950 model with a 6962 that had sat in a barn in central Georgia for more than 60 years. That motor once cleaned up ran perfectly and once I rebuilt it, it was show room smooth.
I do not believe that gravity has a significant effect on the motor. The electromagnetic force that is created by the stator will force the rotor to center regardless of its orientation and everything I have seen with the many 6962’s that I have completely rebuilt demonstrates to me that the motor is very well built and designed.
My very first 100 drill press rebuild was a 1950 model with a 6962 that had sat in a barn in central Georgia for more than 60 years. That motor once cleaned up ran perfectly and once I rebuilt it, it was show room smooth.
Thank you FrankLee and 11b30b4, I appreciate your reply.
On a different issue, same motor model, I wonder if anyone is aware of a resource for a wiring diagram for the 6962 - similar to the graphic that 11b30b4 kindly provided earlier in this thread. (attached here for reference)
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BrianHayes
Well-known member
Did any of the Craftsman motors have an engine turned stator cover? I have seen it used on a CM lathe belt cover and on a CM bandsaw blade guard.
FrankLee
Well-known member
Yes. I believe some 3/4 hp and 1 hp motors had the engine turned center band. One had the motor information printed directly on the band instead of a separate badge riveted on. IIRC, the band is not removable like most other smaller fractional motors of that era.
The larger jointers, 24" jig saws, quite a few table saws and maybe other machines had engine-turned panels.
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BrianHayes
Well-known member
Thank you Frank. I had planned to make a pinstriped center panel, but having just finished making a replacement engine-turned headband for my 1957 100 DP (my first try at engine turning), I thought, why not use the same finish on the motor?