Let the cannonball begin. Tomorrow is my youngest daughter's 2 year birthday. Gotta get back to Indy!
Seems only appropriate....
Dad
Are we there yet?
What about now?
Above 1200 Sq/FT BoostingAZ's Garage & Woodshop
- Thread starter Boostingaz
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Seems only appropriate....
Dad
Are we there yet?
What about now?
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Butler Ave/Ponderosa Pkwy and 66. I get off at the Little America exit when I go to their place.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
"I will turn this car around!"......oh wait I want to go home.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Yup, that’s the one I thought it was, just dating myself. That street was Enterprise until the city renamed it about 10-15 years ago! I am old!
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
I don't know why your telling me, find a tree
We got home yesterday (Saturday) at about 10am. I told you it was a cannonball!!
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
I spent the morning running some errands and then got some shop time.
There was a cat door that was just letting in mice and a draft so a hunt through the scrap pile fixed that.
Extra dust collection valve turned itself into a water hose hole. While I was out I picked up a water hose real on clearance at Menards so now I can quickly/easily roll up the hose when not in use and close the door.
I also picked up a little heater as it's been in the high teens the past few nights and I don't want frozen water. This is temporary. I have a ceiling mount Dyna-Glo Pro 240v heater on the way for the tack/water room. So in preparation for that I needed a bigger wire run to that room and a 30a breaker. Done, done, ready to hook up as soon as it arrives.
There was a cat door that was just letting in mice and a draft so a hunt through the scrap pile fixed that.
Extra dust collection valve turned itself into a water hose hole. While I was out I picked up a water hose real on clearance at Menards so now I can quickly/easily roll up the hose when not in use and close the door.
I also picked up a little heater as it's been in the high teens the past few nights and I don't want frozen water. This is temporary. I have a ceiling mount Dyna-Glo Pro 240v heater on the way for the tack/water room. So in preparation for that I needed a bigger wire run to that room and a 30a breaker. Done, done, ready to hook up as soon as it arrives.
I don't know why your telling me, find a tree
We got home yesterday (Saturday) at about 10am. I told you it was a cannonball!!
Wait....we?
You made that trip in that time frame with more than just the mouse in your pocket? That's impressive!
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
In the Waggy loaded to the gills. Whole Famn Damily, all 6 of us.
On the way there I had my Mom too, so 7!
Cost me about 200 bucks in fuel. Way! better than the $3k in plane tickets I already dropped for the upcoming spring break.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
After the kids went down I was able to get my stove all fixed up and ready to fire! Gonna need it! It's alright been in the teens at night and only reaches the mid/high 20s during the day.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Tack room / water spigot room heater came in today so guess what I'll be doing later.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Pay no mind to the installation 
This was an after the kids went to bed at 9pm heading into a 1 9dg night need heat before I go to bed situation. I needed to get the water pump room heated up.
This was an after the kids went to bed at 9pm heading into a 1 9dg night need heat before I go to bed situation. I needed to get the water pump room heated up.
You've got blocking, what I'm guessing is the right size wire, connections made in a box, staples on the romex and clamp connections at the box instead of just sticking it thru the punch out...doesn't look bad! Honestly not sure if that run from box to heater by code should be a MC/armor cable whip or similar, but I'd have no issues calling it done for a barn at my place
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OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
I've got clamp connections on the box and at the heater, and it runs back to a 30a DP breaker.
Yea the exposed Romex is where I likely fail, it is technically probably a no no, but it's a barn and it's definitely not the only place where there is exposed to Romex. I have some flex conduit and box connectors for it but I don't think you are technically supposed to put Romex in metal either. I chose to leave it exposed rather than dealing with a possible overheat situation from it being in a shield.
It's like 16" to the box and then another 12" inches before it goes back into an insulated wall the rest of the way back to the panel. So it's not much.
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As I understand it (and not an electrical code expert)....
There is no set height in the NEC for what is considered "protected" vs "unprotected" when it comes to exposed romex. Various areas/state may have different rules of X heigh above walls or finished ceilings, but those are also generally specific to dwellings. Barns and other non-dwellings are far more gray area in terms of what's required vs allowed or what's good practice vs not.
If it was mine, I'd have 0 concerns with that romex running from box back to wall and as long as it's high enough to not be a hazard for hitting it or animals reaching wouldn't be personally concerned with that run from box to heater. That appliance to box connection is just often done with flexible conduit but that's also dependent on amperage
Romex in conduit isn't expressly against the rules in the NEC to my knowledge, you just have to ensure the conduit is large enough. Around here it's really common to see in barns, pole barns etc with unfinished walls to have boxes mounted on the posts or blocking at normal height, then 3/4" or 1" EMT going up from those to 8' or so up and the romex exiting the conduit there. Helps provide protection to the wiring at the lower heights, then it's just run along blocking/purlin and stapled as required where it's not in danger of being hit
There is no set height in the NEC for what is considered "protected" vs "unprotected" when it comes to exposed romex. Various areas/state may have different rules of X heigh above walls or finished ceilings, but those are also generally specific to dwellings. Barns and other non-dwellings are far more gray area in terms of what's required vs allowed or what's good practice vs not.
If it was mine, I'd have 0 concerns with that romex running from box back to wall and as long as it's high enough to not be a hazard for hitting it or animals reaching wouldn't be personally concerned with that run from box to heater. That appliance to box connection is just often done with flexible conduit but that's also dependent on amperage
Romex in conduit isn't expressly against the rules in the NEC to my knowledge, you just have to ensure the conduit is large enough. Around here it's really common to see in barns, pole barns etc with unfinished walls to have boxes mounted on the posts or blocking at normal height, then 3/4" or 1" EMT going up from those to 8' or so up and the romex exiting the conduit there. Helps provide protection to the wiring at the lower heights, then it's just run along blocking/purlin and stapled as required where it's not in danger of being hit
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
I was under the impression / thought (there is my first mistake, thinking haha) that Romex was not allowed to be in conduit, it had to be THHN solid wire. So I guess if you took the Romex jacket off and just ran each individual wire that would be "better" than snaking the whole Romex assembly?
. But is the wire inside Romex specifically THHN or is the shielding different?It's not in a place or position to really be snagged or touched so this point I'm just trying to update my brain database lol.
In other related matters I got my clearance rack hose reel up. Now my hose will stay nice and warm too and I can just pop it through my dust collector door when I need to fill water troughs. Quick connect on the spigot side to make disconnecting easy. I don't like to leave things plugged in when not I use.
This was brought on by the "animal sitter" left the hose stretched out in the back of the barn not drained and it froze solid. Took my two days to get it unthawed. This is what prompted this whole heater business. I was very excited to snag that heater on sale at Menards for $79 bucks though!!
I was under the impression / thought (there is my first mistake, thinking haha) that Romex was not allowed to be in conduit, it had to be THHN solid wire. So I guess if you took the Romex jacket off and just ran each individual wire that would be "better" than snaking the whole Romex assembly?
It's not in a place or position to really be snagged or touched so this point I'm just trying to update my brain database lol.
In other related matters I got my clearance rack hose reel up. Now my hose will stay nice and warm too and I can just pop it through my dust collector door when I need to fill water troughs. Quick connect on the spigot side to make disconnecting easy. I don't like to leave things plugged in when not I use.
This was brought on by the "animal sitter" left the hose stretched out in the back of the barn not drained and it froze solid. Took my two days to get it unthawed. This is what prompted this whole heater business. I was very excited to snag that heater on sale at Menards for $79 bucks though!!
The "Romex in conduit" thing has been discussed MANY times. As I recall, it's allowed subject to certain wire size/amperage conditions but don't quote me. Also, it's been stated MANY times that you can't strip the jacket off and use the internal wire by itself as it's not rated.
Among many others here, @wyliesdiesels or @sparky 1971 can set you straight.
That new place is really keeping you busy....
sparky 1971
Well-known member
Romex has to be protected but since there is no definition of protected it's up to the installer and/or AHJ to decide if it is or not. It can be in conduit, but the jacket has to stay on.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Thank you for stepping in with the clarification!
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
I've got little man helping pulling out old insulation so we can spray foam.
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
This kids are now asking "why did you fill the windows with marshmallows"
ogdawg
Well-known member
My youngest was convinced it was ice cream. I guess spray foam just looks like it tastes goodThis kids are now asking "why did you fill the windows with marshmallows"
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
harley jim
Well-known member
Marshmallow in a can.
I just used two cans in the cabin to seal up where I joined the porch roof to the front wall. Half of it wound up on the floor!
I just used two cans in the cabin to seal up where I joined the porch roof to the front wall. Half of it wound up on the floor!
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
Yes it is messy and sticky as hell! When they say we're gloves they mean it! I had a drip that was about to fall on the floor and grabbed it, sticky for days no matter what I washed with.
LOL
I've ruined so many pairs of pants and gloves that weren't meant to be disposable before I got smart and wore disposable gloves when dealing with that ****.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
The foam works out to be about 5.30 per window or door. I figure that's a pretty darn cheap upgrade that may (or may not) save on some heating . It's only about $65 bucks to do the whole house.
. It's only about $65 bucks to do the whole house.
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OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
I had to move operations to the basement. It would appear 19dg is too cold for staining
I had to move operations to the basement. It would appear 19dg is too cold for staining
You mean the recently transplanted desert dweller stepped outside and nearly froze his balls off but he got turned back into the house before long term damage occurred? LOL
I can't blame ya though....you've got the space....interior finishing with water based isn't that smelly....doing it inside helps keep progress moving!
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
jar944
Well-known member
I usually go (in order) lacquer thinner, acetone, xylene.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
When it's not one thing it's another......
I finally took the time to fix my stove heater flue, yeah! Was going to load and fire it up last night and noticed some damn mice chewed up the blower cord
. I cut it back to a "pigtail" so now there is nothing hanging to chew. I'll just plug it in with and extension cord when I want to use it.
I finally took the time to fix my stove heater flue, yeah! Was going to load and fire it up last night and noticed some damn mice chewed up the blower cord
. I cut it back to a "pigtail" so now there is nothing hanging to chew. I'll just plug it in with and extension cord when I want to use it.
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Moved some wood into the back of the barn to stay dry 
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
I moved my clamps to behind the table saw as there is a small path that's kind of wasted. I can still walk behind the bench to grab what I need but this tucks them away a little better.
What I was really after was freeing up a wall cavity.......
So this brings the question to you all. I want to get some sort of hardware wall set up. I have the trinity hardware rack but I also have kids......
My youngest loves! nothing more than to while I am not looking swap items. I can't tell you how many times I've grabbed what I thought was an 18g nail or vice versa and thrown them in a gun to quickly find out there are not. I've become very proficient at taking apart nail guns to un-jam them.
So I want some sort of slat wall or similar that will accept or has bins as an option so that I can get everything up out of little hands reach.
All ideas welcome!
What I was really after was freeing up a wall cavity.......
So this brings the question to you all. I want to get some sort of hardware wall set up. I have the trinity hardware rack but I also have kids......
My youngest loves! nothing more than to while I am not looking swap items. I can't tell you how many times I've grabbed what I thought was an 18g nail or vice versa and thrown them in a gun to quickly find out there are not. I've become very proficient at taking apart nail guns to un-jam them.
So I want some sort of slat wall or similar that will accept or has bins as an option so that I can get everything up out of little hands reach.
All ideas welcome!
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Assuming those have the same lip on the back as Akro bins, lot of options on this thread
www.garagejournal.com
I personally have done the u shape shelf standards on a 1x before...easy and available at any hardware store. There are some z clip hanging extrusions that can work as well. Have also seen some flat like 1/16" steel mounted with standoffs to give a lip to hook the bin on if you want to drill holes in metal
Alternative Rail for Akro-bins
Hi, I'm new to the forum and have been reading for a few days. Thanks for all the info posted here. I recently picked up some inexpensive Akro-bins. Now I would like to do a wall mount system but don't want to pay the $5.50/LF for the commercial rails. What is an alternative rail that is...
www.garagejournal.com
I personally have done the u shape shelf standards on a 1x before...easy and available at any hardware store. There are some z clip hanging extrusions that can work as well. Have also seen some flat like 1/16" steel mounted with standoffs to give a lip to hook the bin on if you want to drill holes in metal
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
Assuming those have the same lip on the back as Akro bins, lot of options on this thread
Alternative Rail for Akro-bins
Hi, I'm new to the forum and have been reading for a few days. Thanks for all the info posted here. I recently picked up some inexpensive Akro-bins. Now I would like to do a wall mount system but don't want to pay the $5.50/LF for the commercial rails. What is an alternative rail that is...
I personally have done the u shape shelf standards on a 1x before...easy and available at any hardware store. There are some z clip hanging extrusions that can work as well. Have also seen some flat like 1/16" steel mounted with standoffs to give a lip to hook the bin on if you want to drill holes in metal
Some great ideas there, thanks!
I started following some links and post #1 here is super clean and sounds like what you did.
My Akro type bin solution - homemade mount track
So I know everyone here loves the Akro type bins. I am no exception. In my previous garage I had them all over the place, wherever I could find room. Some were hung with factory plastic track and some on homemade metal rack. I even had a bunch of bins that weren't in use due to lack of space...
www.garagejournal.com
Some great ideas there, thanks!
I started following some links and post #1 here is super clean and sounds like what you did.
My Akro type bin solution - homemade mount track
So I know everyone here loves the Akro type bins. I am no exception. In my previous garage I had them all over the place, wherever I could find room. Some were hung with factory plastic track and some on homemade metal rack. I even had a bunch of bins that weren't in use due to lack of space...
Yup, just found a Pic of what was done
OP
Boostingaz
Well-known member
The Trinity bins are a little different but I think would still work on that. I'll grab a pic when I'm out in the shop after the kids go down.