rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

The Throw Money at it Solution?

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FWIW I've had good results from using J-B Weld to seal up leaking swaged carb passages. Has to be clean of any varnish and a little dremel work to give the JB some tooth to hang onto is a good thing.

No not yet. And it would be EFI not a carb. I have about $150 into this free carb. The primary shaft is worn so I don't want to spend any more on this one. I'll get there, just have to be patient. If I didn't have an AFR gauge I would think it was all good.

If it comes to EFI, I'd probably move the sniper from the 72 F250 over to this and do something else on the 460.

Probably get better performance with less CFM? 600 would probably give you crisper throttle response.

I understand the fight to get it right, however.

Maybe yes? 600 is probably enough. Typical 600 does have a slightly smaller primary than a 750, but depends on the exact model/list#.

I think a well tuned carb will perform better than a ok tuned one of a more appropriate size. Think about an individual runner carb system. The combined CFM of eight carbs is way beyond a single 4 bbl, but can be made to work well.

I think I got lucky with the tune on the old setup with loose boosters. The secondary wasn't doing much.

 

[rattle_snake]

With truck exhaust, I always have the most luck moving the exit further back.

I had my "touring" exhaust for my truck, which was a straight thru glass pack style muffler hanging off the tip, moving the exit 20" further back. When measured it was ~1 DB quieter but inside the cab it was much quieter.

Yes a tailpipe can have a significantly impact on the sound. I'm wanting simple and easy to remove so skipping going over the axle with full length tailpipe for now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Bought 2 more $34 SS 3" mufflers, this time the round flavor to go with the ovals.


Using the band clamps for now until I settle on a solution.


Also made some improved turn down tips out of the cutoffs. Left the ends straight cut.




How does it sound? Better. Idle is still loud and aggressive. Part throttle is cleaned up which was the intent. WOT still roars so calling it a win for now. Still a very free-flowing setup.

 

[rattle_snake]

Circled back to the power steering pump situation. I have been re-thinking the goal, scope and plan for this truck. The pump works, is quiet and doesn't leak so going to keep using it for now. The bracket was ugly, hit the A/C and pump looked odd being blue. So I reworked the bracket shape and cut off the 'corner' and welded in a curved scab. Painted to match the rest of the acc. drive.


More adjustment range and blending in better.

 

[rattle_snake]

Re-purposing the trans cooler as a power steering cooler. The tubing zig zag works, but is ugly and somewhat in the way. Smashed the end bracketry flat in press and re-bent to a symmetrical standoff type of scheme.


Installed riv-nuts in the cross member to mount the cooler.


With riv-nuts there is no adjustment so they have to be accurately placed. One at a time.


The pump reservoir had a 3/8 tube ******, but I want fancy AN fittings. Had an extra 6AN to 5/8-18 fitting so cut a 5/8 nut in half to use as a bung.


welding went poorly on the stamped area of varying thickness.

 

[Bodj Built]

Installed riv-nuts in the cross member to mount the cooler.


With riv-nuts there is no adjustment so they have to be accurately placed. One at a time.

Well that's just not true (sorta). Just open up the holes on the cooler flange! Haha just kidding. But yes, one at a time, or get one or two done, then transfer punch the rest

 

[rattle_snake]

I'm starting to come to the realization that I've started with the wrong truck for my end goal. Have to rethink how to proceed, and change the plan.

My end vision is basically a race truck for the street. There would be nothing left original other than a heavily modified cab and title. Buying a rust free survivor short box for market price is a poor starting point for such an end goal. For that I should buy the cheapest shell of a beater long bed mostly for a title. Scrap everything but cab. But that is a years long and expensive project, not a piece at a time that I want. So the conundrum.

Obvious action to take is to start shopping and buy another truck.

So I'm considering scaling back the level of this build, complete, enjoy, and sell to finance the next. Most all of the big expenses items do not bring value when for sale. One-off custom frame, $20k engine, audio, bling wheels, big brakes, high end suspension, ect. I'd be better off keeping factory frame, suspension, leaving cab/bed intact and focusing on the paint, wheels and finishing touches.

 

[rattle_snake]

Well that's just not true (sorta). Just open up the holes on the cooler flange! Haha just kidding. But yes, one at a time, or get one or two done, then transfer punch the rest

sometimes it's not possible to hog out the holes. like this IGN box. Really need a set of center punches to get good results.

 

[SilverJimmy]

HF is your friend, less than $20.00 and you’re accurate!

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=transfer%20punch%20set

 

[PugetDude]

HF is your friend, less than $20.00 and you’re accurate!

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=transfer%20punch%20set

I have a set of cheap transfer punches I bought of the Homier Distributing (HDC) traveling tool show in Spokane about 30 years ago.
They have really held up well. The rest of the **** I bought... not so much. Most of it died or was scrapped out long ago.

 

[ntsqd]

While we're on that subject, y'all know about threaded transfer punches?
Examples:
https://www.amazon.com/LittleMachin...rew-Set-16/dp/B09BK85WCK?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/transfer-punches/for-hole-type~threaded/

On the street legal race truck topic; I've debated that back and forth a lot. Money no object you buy the best example of what you want and tear it apart. You'll be money ahead in not fixing rust, even if you are destroying a pristine example. Then you buy a cast-off NASCAR West Truck road racing chassis (assuming those exist, could be a LOT of work to make an ovals chassis turn right) and put your donor's sheet metal on it. By the time you're done there isn't going to be much of the donor left. You could pull molds off the current truck and make a fiberglass body to put on the West Truck chassis.

Money more of an object: buy something like a retired IMCA car and rebuild it's cage to fit a truck. Specifically an IMCA car is probably not the best choice, there's likely a better one, I just don't know what it is.
Since you're in the SW, I'd look to see how much desert racing tech, parts and local vendors could be used/leveraged to create the truck that you want. Prior to all of the Pro-Touring really expensive parts being available I looked at oval track racing parts for big vehicle street handling components. One issue that I don't see mentioned much (but I also don't travel in Pro Touring circles) is that most pass car outer front wheel bearings are tiny. When pushed hard they don't live long, even with expensive grease in them. Cup car teams used to spend huge money on just these bearings to get them to live a full 500 mile Super Speedway race. I'd use D44 stub spindles and the desert racing parts designed to work with them for a street race truck build. Or go Wide 5, but that gets really spendy, really fast!

 

[fouckhest]

@ntsqd
Based on that comment, if you've never been on the Grassroots Motorsports site/forum, you should, you'd love it over there! Those guys are all over the old stock car chassis project (well a few, but its common'ish).

 

[ntsqd]

Been a GRM forum member since Pearl Harbor Day, '09. I've read some of the thread on one in the North-East used for Hill-Climbs. It was partly that thread and partly knowing that the sum of the parts can easily exceed the cost of a used race car that fueled my comment.

 

[Bodj Built]

While we're on that subject, y'all know about threaded transfer punches?
Examples:
https://www.amazon.com/LittleMachin...rew-Set-16/dp/B09BK85WCK?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/transfer-punches/for-hole-type~threaded/

On the street legal race truck topic; I've debated that back and forth a lot. Money no object you buy the best example of what you want and tear it apart. You'll be money ahead in not fixing rust, even if you are destroying a pristine example. Then you buy a cast-off NASCAR West Truck road racing chassis (assuming those exist, could be a LOT of work to make an ovals chassis turn right) and put your donor's sheet metal on it. By the time you're done there isn't going to be much of the donor left. You could pull molds off the current truck and make a fiberglass body to put on the West Truck chassis.

Money more of an object: buy something like a retired IMCA car and rebuild it's cage to fit a truck. Specifically an IMCA car is probably not the best choice, there's likely a better one, I just don't know what it is.
Since you're in the SW, I'd look to see how much desert racing tech, parts and local vendors could be used/leveraged to create the truck that you want. Prior to all of the Pro-Touring really expensive parts being available I looked at oval track racing parts for big vehicle street handling components. One issue that I don't see mentioned much (but I also don't travel in Pro Touring circles) is that most pass car outer front wheel bearings are tiny. When pushed hard they don't live long, even with expensive grease in them. Cup car teams used to spend huge money on just these bearings to get them to live a full 500 mile Super Speedway race. I'd use D44 stub spindles and the desert racing parts designed to work with them for a street race truck build. Or go Wide 5, but that gets really spendy, really fast!

I'm a fan of those! Well, not those ones in particular, but threaded transfer punches overall. I make mine with a bolt, cut the head off, sharpen to a point, and thread in. They just won't work in his current application.

 

[rattle_snake]

For now I'm going to move forward with the truck I have, just with a reduced goal and scope. Honestly, I'm more excited and somewhat relieved. Previous goal was to make everything as custom and most-bestest as possible. Clean sheet designs. Now it's more incremental, simple and keep down time to a minimum.

Rough plan
-Keep stock frame. Strengthen with useful gussets and bracing. C-notch and box the over-axle area. Clean and paint.
-Rear four link, panhard, coilovers, sway bar. No cutting of bed floor.
-Keep beam front end. Bend or mod beams. Coilovers and custom upper mounts instead of coil buckets. Bigger sway bar.
-Wheels/tires
-Full paint job.
-finishing touches.

Going to revisit some things that I skipped or did in reduced scope from original plan. Brake lines, rag joint, column.

 

[rattle_snake]

I'm a fan of those! Well, not those ones in particular, but threaded transfer punches overall. I make mine with a bolt, cut the head off, sharpen to a point, and thread in. They just won't work in his current application.

Thanks for sharing how to make one as needed. That's slick. More tools...

 

[zmotorsports]

I'm a fan of those! Well, not those ones in particular, but threaded transfer punches overall. I make mine with a bolt, cut the head off, sharpen to a point, and thread in. They just won't work in his current application.

I do the same, bring a bolt to a point in the lathe, knock the head off, cut in a slit for a screwdriver and works well, in most situations anyways. I have a full set of standard transfer punches that seem to get used the most, but the bolt path works well in those few situations where the standards don't. I keep eyeballing the ones on McMaster's site, but just can't justify the cost.

 

[rattle_snake]

Circling back to the half-assed exhaust hangers. A single hanger on a straight length of pipe/mufflers has no lateral stability and wags like a tail. Step one was to cut off the existing stuff and **** can. Welded a pair of pins to the muffler case, at little angle to keep them in place.


Unfortunately I bought some 3/8 solid rod to make hangers out of, and should have been 7/16. Made some simple dies for my press brake to put bends in solid rod.


Frame side hangers point the opposite direction as the mufflers to make the rubber piece captive.


Using a pair at 90* to one another provides the lateral force needed to stabilize the piping.


No more waggy pipes to loosen the fasteners and bang on the crossmember. Some adjustability with the multi-hole type hangers. I use a small worm clamp on the four frame hangers to prevent the rubber piece from coming off.


When I added the 2nd set of round mufflers I replace the forward piping with a new piece to get rid of the **** joint 6" from header flange. Why? so it would discolor properly. or something like that. I did not do the other side, didn't have a spare bung or a single length long enough. So I may go back and redo that side, but first need to improve the fitment at the cross member.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job on hanging the muffler to avoid the shakes.

That being said, if I could offer one suggestion as I have run across this issue before.

I welded some rods to the muffler caps similar to this and after a short time of bouncing around, they broke free and took a chunk of the end cap with them. I think they fatigue cracked the end cap and pulled out right at the HAZ of the weld.


The next go-round, I went this route and bent up a Z-shaped rod (YELLOW) but tied it in to cover more surface area along the end cap as well as the main body of the muffler, then stitch welded (BLUE) in a couple of places. Still holding strong.



Just a suggestion. Sorry, artist I am not.

 

[larry4406]

Curious why the long axis of the oval mufflers are vertical vs horizontal?

Looks like you have the real estate for a horizontal arrangement. I would think horizontal they would tuck up better out of the way.

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice job on hanging the muffler to avoid the shakes.

That being said, if I could offer one suggestion as I have run across this issue before.

I welded some rods to the muffler caps similar to this and after a short time of bouncing around, they broke free and took a chunk of the end cap with them. I think they fatigue cracked the end cap and pulled out right at the HAZ of the weld.

The next go-round, I went this route and bent up a Z-shaped rod (YELLOW) but tied it in to cover more surface area along the end cap as well as the main body of the muffler, then stitch welded (BLUE) in a couple of places. Still holding strong.

Just a suggestion. Sorry, artist I am not.

Thanks for the tip Mike.

Curious why the long axis of the oval mufflers are vertical vs horizontal?

Looks like you have the real estate for a horizontal arrangement. I would think horizontal they would tuck up better out of the way.

Hi Larry,
Just for packaging, fitment. Was going to do a traction bar in between the left muffler and the driveshaft. Vertical is a little more distance from the fuel/brake lines and wiring. These oval mufflers are only available in center/center configuration

Probably could have made them horizontal. This truck is for the pavement so not concerned about clearance off road.

 

[ntsqd]

By the way, I built my own version of your flush mount rivnut dimpling tool and it has worked flawlessly on the 1/2 dozen test holes. About to put it to the test in a center console project. I made the die cavity ID quite a bit larger than the rivnut's flange OD and that has resulted in a nicely sloped dimple.

 

[rattle_snake]

Hi Thom, were going to need some pictures of it and the console.

 

[ntsqd]

ATM all that I have are jpg's pulled out of SolidWorks and some very messy in-process pics of where it's going to live, "Wagon" link in my sig. The whole thing is in the early stages of mods. The basic console is a Tuffy clone that I've cut 3" off the bottom of. I'm adding a real set of cup holders to the front of it and a switch panel with the dual band radio's control panel on it to the side of the console. Those three 10-32's on each side that join my cup holder addition and the 4 10-32's that join the switch panel to the clone console are where I need to flush the rivnuts. There is a lot of electrical going on in and under the console.
I'll see what I can do about pics of the tool and the resulting dimples.

 

[Bodj Built]

Nice job on hanging the muffler to avoid the shakes.

That being said, if I could offer one suggestion as I have run across this issue before.

I welded some rods to the muffler caps similar to this and after a short time of bouncing around, they broke free and took a chunk of the end cap with them. I think they fatigue cracked the end cap and pulled out right at the HAZ of the weld.


The next go-round, I went this route and bent up a Z-shaped rod (YELLOW) but tied it in to cover more surface area along the end cap as well as the main body of the muffler, then stitch welded (BLUE) in a couple of places. Still holding strong.



Just a suggestion. Sorry, artist I am not.

I second this. I've ripped nice SS Black Widow mufflers this way.

 

[rattle_snake]

Hmm. If I modify I'll have to get the right size round stock in SS. Or even some with the *******. and maybe a set of cut-outs.

 

[LXCam]

Hmm. If I modify I'll have to get the right size round stock in SS. Or even some with the *******. and maybe a set of cut-outs.

Justin, make you own. Cut your rod to length, heat the end cherry red and beat it like a nail into the concrete or anvil. It doesn’t take much nub to keep the rubber from walking off. If ya really want to be fancy, bowl out a small steel block with a ball mill and drive it into that. It’ll give you a nice round nub.

Or if you want these, you’re welcome to them.

 

[ntsqd]

Those that I've made I don't bother with a nub on the end. I just make them longer than they're going to be able to get off the end of. To do that I point them in opposite directions so that the rubber hanger will run into the bent part of one well before it can slip off the end of the other. I also place the rubber piece such that as the system grows in length they can simply slide along the rods.
So far I've always included a flex bellows in the system near the front of it. I've found by doing that the system is far less likely to develop leaks over time.

 

[zmotorsports]

Justin, I've done like Thom and just made several a bit longer and angle them to where the component that is hanging is actually trying to pull the grommet towards the bend with good results.

However, I much prefer the OEM appearance of the bulbous end and do something similar to what Cam mentions, less the concrete however.

I have an old air hammer attachment that I turned in the lathe using a radius nose tool to create a concave "divot" in the end, much like something you'd use to flare a solid rivet with. I leave the piece of solid rod about .250"-.375" longer than necessary, clamp it relatively close in the vise, then heat just the end to cherry red and then holding the air hammer attachment dead nuts parallel with the rod giving it a couple quick blasts. It creates a nice smooth bulbous end that usually requires no dressing before putting into use.

 

[ntsqd]

My kinda tool right there! Now I gotta go shopping.....

 

[ntsqd]

Hi Thom, were going to need some pictures of it and the console.

No further progress yet on the console, but pics of the tool and of the test dimples. These are sized for #10 rivnuts. Stock is Ø.750", draw-bolt is Ø1/4-20. Flats on the female part are 11/16"
I thought about piloting on the shoulder of the bolt and then drilling the hole to the required size for the rivnut after dimpling, but this was the bolt that I had and it just seemed easier to make the male part have an on-size pilot on it. I was worried that my accidental over-zealous chamfering of the pilot's clearance hole in the female part would affect the result, but it does not. I eyeballed the dims for the dimple pieces, ~Ø.47" for the male and ~Ø.68" for the shallow female ID. The step depth is .03"-04" or so.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

A Dzus button dimple die setup might also work. I never thought about trying them to countersink rivnuts. The angle might not allow them to seat properly vs a flat face, but I might screw around with it.

 

[ntsqd]

I'll guess that success will depend on how malleable the material is. If the dimple forming has work hardened it too much I wouldn't expect it to pull back to flat when installing the rivnut. If it is still reasonably soft then it might.

An observation that may or may not mean much. First iteration of my form tool went to zero at the shoulder of the male die. The resulting dimple wasn't very satisfactory. Cutting the shoulder back so that they go to zero in the rivnut seating area results in a much better dimple.

The tool works much like air bending with a press brake in that it doesn't have (or need) the angle defined in the shape of the tool. A dzus dimple is different in that having the angle defined in both tool faces is important to the shape formed. The difference is that the angle formed is important to the dzus button and not at all to the rivnut.

 

[Bob Heine]

Between you and Mike my toolbox is running out of space.

Justin, I'm sleeping on a lumpy bed for that exact reason.

I've had good luck with several Vevor tool purchases (air jack was the latest) so I checked their site for a pressure/vacuum coolant setup. It comes with a bunch of radiator and coolant tank adapters. It's available on their site and they gave me an existing customer discount but Amazon carries it as well for a lower starting price.

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Universal-Radiator-Color-Coded-Motorcycles/dp/B0CKXNL39Q/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rattle_snake]

Relocated the brake distribution block, line lock, and replaced all the hard and soft lines.














I was able to get the rear circuit bleed, but the front would not. Eventually found a loose connection, resolved and vacuum bleed the front. Pedal good, miracle. Not sure why I was never successful in the past.

 

[rattle_snake]

Nitrous bottle mount

 

[rattle_snake]

Painted the air filter black to un-do the 'chrome it if it don't go' theme.


and master cylinder cover

 

[rattle_snake]

Should have replaced the rag joint when I resealed the steering gear, but I didn't. So pulled the column out to go through it.


No N/S or backup light switch. Not on trans either. Guess that's not important. There is a plug at column so I think it had the switch there.


Lever pin backed out again.


This column had no lower bearing, only a plastic bushing that was worn out. I found some aftermarket bearing assemblies, so I copied and made one myself instead of waiting. Misplaced the first one so made another with better fitment. Uses a common wheelbarrow bearing.






Going to a floor shifter so gutted the shift mechanism out of the colunm. Made a cover for the gear selector area that also locks the shift tube in place.

 

[rattle_snake]

While the column was out I painted the firewall and all the various seals and brackets. Now everything is clean, new, and out of the way.

 

[rattle_snake]

Decided to put the battery back in original location. Even if I added a cut-off switch for NHRA rules, I'd have to move the battery to bolt it through the frame not the bed floor. Then it blocks use of the bed. So instead put it back, but a smaller, lighter size battery
There are a few types of starting batteries;
Lithium - light small, but expensive to get high current. Requires controller.
AMG - expensive, vibration resistant (but don't need it)
flooded lead acid - cheap, high current
Going from a group 24 to a 26 reduces weight from 38 lbs to 31. 700 CA to 525

I don't want the battery to be a focal point. The tray was corroded, as is the inner fender below it. And now the ignition box is in the area, so started cutting.


Made a CAD drawing and cut out a new box in 16 ga on plasma


Bent it up. Area is not square, and core support has a bump out that necessitated a jog on the forward side. Uses all of the factory bolt locations to the core support.




Welded in, primer, paint.


Next is a hold-down and re-wire.