Early Disston Hand Saws

[RTM]

the handle has a peculiar way of attaching to the blade. It has a single wing nut that goes all the way through. You can tell the wing nut has been there for a while due to the wear on the wood on the handle. The other flat head screw doesn't go all the way through the handle? I've never taken this apart to figure out how it stays in place?

This is part of a multi blade kit, keyhole, backsaw and regular saw blade I think. Loosen the wingnut, the other bolt is used as a pin. There is a slot in the blade that goes over the pin, and locks in


Start here and go down a page or more. I think the newer ones came without horns.

[https://archive.org/details/DisstonIllustratedTradePriceSheet1954/page/n2/mode/1up



These are a similar set, and where my thoughts of the slots and blade types came from

Disston Illustrated Trade Price Sheet : Printed February 15, 1954 : Henry Disston & Sons, Inc. : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

32 p., illus., 29.3 cm, trade catalog

archive.org

 

[AntiqueBen]

I forgot how cool this Aluminum handle Disston looks. It needs a good cleaning. Kinda unique for Disston?

 

[bonneyman]

Now THAT is cool!

 

[AntiqueBen]

According to my Google box it looks like Disston made this D-100 aluminum handle saw from 1961-66.

 

[four.cycle]

^ Bar Keeper's Friend if you want to keep that original finish. (examples)

Studebaker Avanti, eh? Does the blade fly out at over 120 mph?

 

[AntiqueBen]

^ Bar Keeper's Friend if you want to keep that original finish. (examples)

Studebaker Avanti, eh? Does the blade fly out at over 120 mph?

Unfortunately she won't go 120 mph
I cleaned up the blade and some BLO & she's ready to go...

 

[four.cycle]

oh... I wasn't talking about the blade... I was talking about the aluminum handle, but it looks pretty clean already!

 

[AntiqueBen]

oh... I wasn't talking about the blade... I was talking about the aluminum handle, but it looks pretty clean already!

The blade needed cleaned anyway. But yeah, the handle is in really good shape

 

[AntiqueBen]

I found a Disston rip saw (5 tpi) today for $10. It cleaned up good. Looks like it used to have the "nib" but it's broken off. I still need to get some paint off the handle, but overall, it's a user. Before & after pics below.

 

[AntiqueBen]

According to the Distonian Institute, it looks like this saw is an early 28" four screw D-12. The blade has no etching whatsoever, so now I'm confused. They only showed the earliest versions without an etching??
Distonian Institute link HERE

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

My mind is caught up on Champion for a few days but I had to show this saw that I have been trying to restore for a few months now but maybe someone can give more information. I have another but can't find it in all the mess. It is a Disston two hand saw from back in the day. I know I ruined it but I have another.

 

[RTM]

maybe someone can give more information. I have another but can't find it in all the mess. It is a Disston two hand saw from back in the day. I know I ruined it but I have another.

Commonly called a Thumb Hole Rip saw, as 90% of those handles seem to show up on rip saws, made for cutting wood the long way. If you are taking a 12' long board in half, that's a lot more work than cross cutting it to length.

The teeth are generally bigger, lower TPI than a crosscut, and filed differently. If you drop a needle, or tiny drill into the bottom of the gullet, it should lay perpendicular to the plate. On a crosscut, it should be 20⁰ angled to the plate, and tilted up or down a bit.

When ripping, there are two different conjectures on posture. One included standing almost vertical, and using the saw almost vertical in a push mode, with your fingers interlaced. The other was a more traditional stance, but I forget the left hand position.

With the rip cut, people have reported cutting 3" per stroke of the saw. Very aggressive in the right wood.

At first glance, I’d say yours is a D8, but verify it here. Could be a #8, the medallion will tell.

Online Reference of Disston Saws -- Quick Glance Guide to Saw Identification

identifying and dating disston saws

www.disstonianinstitute.com

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Commonly called a Thumb Hole Rip saw, as 90% of those handles seem to show up on rip saws, made for cutting wood the long way. If you are taking a 12' long board in half, that's a lot more work than cross cutting it to length.

The teeth are generally bigger, lower TPI than a crosscut, and filed differently. If you drop a needle, or tiny drill into the bottom of the gullet, it should lay perpendicular to the plate. On a crosscut, it should be 20⁰ angled to the plate, and tilted up or down a bit.

When ripping, there are two different conjectures on posture. One included standing almost vertical, and using the saw almost vertical in a push mode, with your fingers interlaced. The other was a more traditional stance, but I forget the left hand position.

With the rip cut, people have reported cutting 3" per stroke of the saw. Very aggressive in the right wood.

At first glance, I’d say yours is a D8, but verify it here. Could be a #8, the medallion will tell.

Online Reference of Disston Saws -- Quick Glance Guide to Saw Identification

identifying and dating disston saws

www.disstonianinstitute.com

Yea, I think I found it to be a D8. But I got lost in other projects. Thanks, RMT. lol

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Yea, I think I found it to be a D8. But I got lost in other projects. Thanks, RMT. lol

I thought more two handed Disston saws would pop up. But I found my other saw which isn't in very good shape. Debating on restore or let it alone.

 

[Oregon Dave]

I thought more two handed Disston saws would pop up. But I found my other saw which isn't in very good shape. Debating on restore or let it alone.

I vote for restoration; if for no other reason than practical experience with clamping and gluing to make those cracks disappear - if you need to!

Those incredibly cheap little super-glue tubes at Harbor; dental floss/tiny thread applicators???

If you do, please post your results & share the process - Thanks

 

[Private Lugnutz]

...& share the process...

You may be interested in reading through this one...

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I vote for restoration; if for no other reason than practical experience with clamping and gluing to make those cracks disappear - if you need to!

Those incredibly cheap little super-glue tubes at Harbor; dental floss/tiny thread applicators???

If you do, please post your results & share the process - Thanks

I agree. And I have read through the article or one similar and completed a handle years ago. But back then it was very difficult matching the wood. But this world has come a long way since then. If the weather warms up I may try again.

 

[Oregon Dave]

I agree. And I have read through the article or one similar and completed a handle years ago. But back then it was very difficult matching the wood. But this world has come a long way since then. If the weather warms up I may try again.

Don't match it; choose something unique, that you like - brand it with your initial - make it look like you did it on purpose !!!

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Don't match it; choose something unique, that you like - brand it with your initial - make it look like you did it on purpose !!!

Great idea. I have a neighbor friend who works wonders with the synthetic's material on tables.

 

[kwigly]

Would be fun to play with fixing the handle, but the blade might be another problem, It looks rusted through just below the handle ?