mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I just ordered a 0.6 hot end
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
Model A Fan
Well-known member
Have you ever used a 0.6 nozzle to print Multiboard or Gridfinity grids? If so, what kind of speed improvement have you seen? What do you plan to do with your 0.4 nozzles?
Have you ever used a 0.6 nozzle to print Multiboard or Gridfinity grids? If so, what kind of speed improvement have you seen? What do you plan to do with your 0.4 nozzles?
i have not.
wait for detail work that needs um? not sure.
Have you ever used a 0.6 nozzle to print Multiboard or Gridfinity grids? If so, what kind of speed improvement have you seen? What do you plan to do with your 0.4 nozzles?
I print almost everything with a .6
If I want better resolution I move to thinner layers, but I run my gridfinity bins and grid plates all at .36 layer lines and it's dramatically faster than a .4. Especially on taller parts with lots of layers, 3 passes with a .36 layer height is roughly the same total height as 4 passes on a .24 out of a .4 nozzle. If I switch it's often to a .2 nozzle for detail work like fine text or coasters.
Just tell the slicer the machine has a .6 in it, adjust the layer thickness reslice and see what your print savings would be
3D-printed glasses case with magnetic catch/opening
www.facebook.com
Model: https://thangs.com/designer/Gazzaladra/3d-model/Glasses case-1511373
1.2M views · 29K reactions | Here's why I designed a 3d printed glasses case! The files to print this are in my bio! #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinted | Gazzaladra
Here's why I designed a 3d printed glasses case! The files to print this are in my bio! #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinted
www.facebook.com
Model: https://thangs.com/designer/Gazzaladra/3d-model/Glasses case-1511373
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I saw that recently too. Neat use of magnets3D-printed glasses case with magnetic catch/opening
1.2M views · 29K reactions | Here's why I designed a 3d printed glasses case! The files to print this are in my bio! #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinted | Gazzaladra
Here's why I designed a 3d printed glasses case! The files to print this are in my bio! #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinted
Model: https://thangs.com/designer/Gazzaladra/3d-model/Glasses case-1511373
moab11
Well-known member
that's a really cool use of the magnets!
Model A Fan
Well-known member
I'm assuming that because the 0.4 nozzle lays down 0.2 layers, the 0.6 nozzle will do the 0.36 without any adjustment required on my part? I may buy one for the sake of an experiment and see how well I like the results. Gridfinity and Multiboard are slow at the 0.2 rate. To print ONE 8x8 panel of Multiboard it is 2hr 26min. I don't dare do it on "Sport" mode for fear of the stringing and potential messups from the printer.
0.6 and 0.8 nozzles are must haves for certain projects. I like to use a sub-0.4 at times, too.
You will lose resolution in x/y on certain prints with larger nozzles, though. You can't get all the resolution back by using thinner layer height.
You will lose resolution in x/y on certain prints with larger nozzles, though. You can't get all the resolution back by using thinner layer height.
For me and mostly functional based parts, I've found that generally max layer thickness is Nozzle Diameter x 60%
The .2 layer on a .4 nozzle is 50% of diameter, so the equivalent on a .6 nozzle is .3 and is one of the default options in Bambu Studio. I've run as big as .45 for fast stuff and just seeing how it looks and for many things it would be viable. Eventually you hit a volumetric limit where the machine can't heat filament fast enough, in those cases to go faster/thicker you need higher temps, bigger heater, special nozzles etc
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I printed an "AMS Flipper" to be able to tip the AMS out of the way and a filament holder for top feeding TPU. My first TPU print is running now... Hope it goes well as there are a couple plates that are nearly 2 days each
Cruzan80
Well-known member
I did one as well. I highly recommend the additional "Flipper knobs" and the side-mount spool holder (sits inside the "swoop" so no additional hardware needed). There is enough slack to put a Bambu 4-in-1 PFTE adapter at the top back inlet and clear the flipper bracket, so you don't have to unhook the tube.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Can you share a link to what you are using?
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Sure.
Grip Knobs for Flipper: https://makerworld.com/models/1746412?appSharePlatform=copy
Side Spool Holder:https://makerworld.com/models/1381074?appSharePlatform=copy
Bambu 4-in-1 adapter: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-4-in-1-ptfe-adapter
Pic of it attached on an X1E below. I also edited a side plate holder for the other side that hooks into the thin slot by the glass (spool holder is L side when facing printer, plates are R side). Plate holder was originally for 5x, cut it down to 2x in Fusion. It is multiple parts, so can do a two-tone effect easily.
Build Plate Holder: https://makerworld.com/models/964467?appSharePlatform=copy
Edit: The bit of gray circle at the bottom of the picture is a cable organizer I found. https://makerworld.com/models/142877?appSharePlatform=copy
Grip Knobs for Flipper: https://makerworld.com/models/1746412?appSharePlatform=copy
Side Spool Holder:https://makerworld.com/models/1381074?appSharePlatform=copy
Bambu 4-in-1 adapter: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-4-in-1-ptfe-adapter
Pic of it attached on an X1E below. I also edited a side plate holder for the other side that hooks into the thin slot by the glass (spool holder is L side when facing printer, plates are R side). Plate holder was originally for 5x, cut it down to 2x in Fusion. It is multiple parts, so can do a two-tone effect easily.
Build Plate Holder: https://makerworld.com/models/964467?appSharePlatform=copy
Edit: The bit of gray circle at the bottom of the picture is a cable organizer I found. https://makerworld.com/models/142877?appSharePlatform=copy
Attachments
Model A Fan
Well-known member
What print files did you use for the arms above and the flipper?I printed an "AMS Flipper" to be able to tip the AMS out of the way and a filament holder for top feeding TPU. My first TPU print is running now... Hope it goes well as there are a couple plates that are nearly 2 days each
Also, what are you printing that takes two days? I'd hate for a failure part way through
I see your post right above mine, thanks for the links!
Last edited:
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
What print files did you use for the arms above and the flipper?
Also, what are you printing that takes two days? I'd hate for a failure part way through
AMS Flipper - better access to your P1S/X1C/P2S - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld
Download this free 3D print file designed by Jakob_K_Design. This is the AMS Flipper, with it you can flip the AMS up to get better access to the top of your P1S or X1 and P2S.I made this AMS flipper because I got tired of having to remove the AMS every time I needed access to the top of my...
makerworld.com
The longest prints are the tires for the wheelchair. Two plates at about 40 hours each
Cruzan80
Well-known member
While not @mike93lx , I used this file (https://makerworld.com/models/1363398?appSharePlatform=copy). There is also a model for ones with a riser, and H2 series. If you need one with a riser someone has a print incorporating the 4-in-1 into the AMS Flipper support arm (I think it wouldn't fit otherwise with the extra riser height). The riser with 4-in-1 slot is here (https://makerworld.com/models/1605902?appSharePlatform=copy).
Cruzan80
Well-known member
I wonder if the "Print from Above" is really required, since any external is designed to be fed in from the side originally. I don't print with TPU 95, so if it needs "the absolute shortest path without any possible obstructions", that makes sense. But I would think a bit of feeding thru a short length of tube wouldn't be enough to bother it...
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Forgot to mention, the Knobs print requires 608 bearings and the Side Spool has PIP filament bearings for the holder to ride on.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Good to know, thanks. I can report that Bambi's TPU for AMS works fine thru a stock level of tubing (whatever length came with the AMS to buffer spring), after initially running it thru the chamber dryer for the stock amount of time (cardboard box over it on the print bed). Since then, it has been in a closed AMS and worked fine. However, I am in Colorado, with very low natural humidity.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That's all helpful. If I could get this to run through the AMS, it would be great. I'll try tomorrow
Cruzan80
Well-known member
To be clear, Bambu sells a specific TPU for AMS, which is not the same as the 85/90 or 95A that they also sell. Not sure exactly what the differences are (possibly closer to 68A?).
us.store.bambulab.com
TPU for AMS
us.store.bambulab.com
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yeah, I know it is different in some way, just don't know if it's enough to matter or if it's just marketing.To be clear, Bambu sells a specific TPU for AMS, which is not the same as the 85/90 or 95A that they also sell. Not sure exactly what the differences are (possibly closer to 68A?).
TPU for AMS
this setup seems to be working fine, although this cardboard tube is definitely eroding and right above the part. The first print is almost done and I'm going to kick off another for overnight... Basically non stop til Friday morning
Last edited:
ptt49er
Well-known member
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Anyone here 3D print stuff for a fee? Or recommend someone to do it?
I also have a 3D printer but my 12 y/o daughter is the only one who uses it. I guess I could see if she could figure out how to print this stuff.
Here's what I need; it's a fixture for rebuilding a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. https://www.printables.com/model/1090633-hurst-competition-plus-shift-carrier-assembly-fixt
I also have a 3D printer but my 12 y/o daughter is the only one who uses it. I guess I could see if she could figure out how to print this stuff.
Here's what I need; it's a fixture for rebuilding a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. https://www.printables.com/model/1090633-hurst-competition-plus-shift-carrier-assembly-fixt
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'd give her a shot at doing it. None of those parts look complicated
If you get stuck, pm me, I'd be happy to run them for you for the cost of shipping
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Thanks for the offer. I'll see if she can figure it out.
I have not tried to run TPU through the AMS and probable won't. That's probably where the problems will arise with all of the carrying on that the AMS does. I keep my TPU in a Sovol dryer permanently connected to the tight nozzle for the time being since I'm doing a lot of TPU parts for a project.
Model A Fan
Well-known member
I put it on sport mode for the second half of a Multiboard print using PETG. It did fine, no stringing or any other real issues. I don't know if I want to print the whole thing on Sport but I may try it when I'm home for a full day. Two blobs in two days leaves me gunshy.
86turbodsl
Well-known member
How do you get orcaslicer to do that all at once?you can download the models and run through your slicer to check. Looks like a couple parts won't work
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I don't know, that's Bambu Studio
86turbodsl
Well-known member
oh, it looks just like orcaslicer at least the one i use.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
In bambu, it displays all plates in a given file by default. You can download the file from a link at 3dmobility.org if you want to try it
Last edited:
Bambu and Orca are very related. If the 3FM file is saved with multiple plates that is how it will look when you load it into Orca. If you are creating it in Orca you can add plates by clicking the "add plate" icon (top of display window, second from left on my screen, looks like a grid).
Last edited:
86turbodsl
Well-known member
Ah i see. What advantage for multiple plates? Architect the whole project at a glance then just send a plate to the printer as needed?
Basically yes. Consider how you might share a complex 3D print design. If you save it as STL files the recipient has the 3D shape but no information on how to orient, support or slice the parts much less material or color information. Thus you are relying on their ability to use the slicer software. If they are clueless they may make a mess of things. The other extreme would be to distribute the G-code itself. That is OK if the printers and setups are identical but even something small like changing from one type of PLA to another, not to mention different printer types, need g-code specific to the combination of printer, material, nozzle etc. The 3FM file attempts to bridge that. When done correctly it would have the orientation, support, infill type, etc all pre-selected. The user might select a different (but similar) material or, if you have a material changer, different colors for various parts.
In Orca you can designate a material per plate which is helpful when doing a multi-material/color print on a single material printer. For example, Flashforge offers a DIY enclosure kit for the printer I had. It uses about 1.5kg of filament to print. When you get the files from FF the parts are already assigned to build plates in part based on material type.
I think this is part of why Bambu and their sharing site are so good. Rather than share STL files, the files are 3FM where the original submitter can designate orientation etc. Thus if the submitter figured out how to make the print work, in theory you should get similar results. It also makes it relatively easy to get a model setup to print on the A1 to print on the X1C. Most settings would be the same but printer specific settings are calculated for the output printer, not the submitter's printer.
If you are going to setup prints you may want to repeat years later, 3FM files are a good way to archive things. If you have the original STL/CAD yes, you can import things back into Orca but if you had a trick to getting it to print successfully, well that trick is lost. At the same time just saving G-code will fail if, like I did, you change from a FF 5M to a Crealtiy K1max. All my FF g-code is basically worthless. Do note that you can load the G-code into Orca. It won't tell you your setup but by looking at the layers you can at least tell what support/infill you used.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Multi-print plates can also be sent "wholesale" to Bambu Printers, and you simply select which plate you want to print at any given time. So saves the number of files that are on the card at one time.
You can do different materials on the same plate in Bambu if you choose, not just one material per plate. The material is stored at the "object" level, not the plate level.
You can do different materials on the same plate in Bambu if you choose, not just one material per plate. The material is stored at the "object" level, not the plate level.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Minor correction, the file type is 3MF. Just mentioning in case anyone does research or tries to use it
draco_1967
Well-known member
I print TPU from my drier (Sunlu S4), feeding into the back. I have a splitter, and a fairly long PTFE tube from the drier box into the splitter. I don't have to disconnect or move my AMS. I haven't had any feed issues so far. I've been using 95A from Overture. Prints great once things are slowed down and retraction is dialed in.
I'm sure printing softer stuff would be a different story. I'd be more inclined to feed from above for the soft stuff.