What multimeters do y'all like?

[milky2k]

Check out this Uni-T dmm, it's around your budget. Whatever you go with I recommend you look for one with a Min/Max feature and if you don't need True RMS then you can save some money and just look for an Average Responding dmm instead.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V4RTJ8N?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[SlotlessMan]

Depends on why I am using use the multimeter.

When accuracy matters to the right of the decimal point, I use a Fluke 77 that is from the 80s. Great unit!

I use a $20 disposable GB when I just need to know what the general potential is. Good enough for me 99% of the time.

 

[tyyost]

I have one of those Klein meters.. The temperature probe is 8 degrees inaccurate at 200 degreesF and there's no way to correct the offset, and the stupid safety plastic around the tips of the probes won't allow them to go into small places.

The grey tips come off, they are isolators when working on components in tight spaces.

 

[Citation]

OP, you didn't say if you are willing to look at used. My Brymen suggestions mostly assumed used (typically off ebay) vs new.
Another used "good deal" would be the IDEAL 61-486. This meter is made by APPA. They do meters for several brands. I had a lesser version a while back. Not a bad meter at all. Not Fluke but like Brymen, often close enough for a lot less money. I had one recently on my ebay watch list for around $35 without probes. For probes I would get either Fluke TL75 or even better Pomona (the OEM for Fluke) silicone probes. The total setup would be around $50 if you look for deals. Good meter overall and easily better than what $50 new would buy. However, not everyone is OK with doing the used item hunting.

 

[djbmw]

For under $50.. AstroAI gets my vote.

 

[KnurledNut]

I also have Klein, Field Piece and UEI meters but they are at a different price point. Field Piece makes meters specificly aimed at the HVAC industry.

(Quoting your post for reference but replying to the thread in general.)

HVAC and automotive overlap in a lot of ways.
I’m currently carrying a Fieldpiece SC260 (Taiwan) for work and it gets used for everything, high and low voltage circuits, tradeswork, vehicle and equipment maintenance.
It’s not IP rated, but built rugged enough to be used on hot roofs or inside freezing coolers, exposed to elements testing outdoor equipment, and durable enough to bounce around in a toolbag 40-hrs a week.
IMO the test leads are as important as the meter and these are high quality, UL-listed silicone with gold plated tips and removable probes for use with other accessories like needle backprobes and alligator clips. It’s fairly compact for the features it offers and has an integrated swivel magnet which has been beneficial for automotive use too.
It’s been reliable, accurate, and responsive, and the functions are well engineered and user friendly even in poor lighting. This isn’t a meter for the clean room bench tester guy, but as someone that takes the tool to the job instead of the job to the tool, I have come to appreciate it. It quickly became apparent to me why so many seasoned techs carry them daily once I got my hands on one. This replaced one of my Flukes.

Like several other posts in this thread, the price I paid was significantly less than what it currently retails for unfortunately.

 

[PoorUB]

Not really the guy to ask. I’ve got 2 old Fluke 77s likely 30+ years old. Sort of the old cry once and like the old Timex add says keeps on ticking.

I bought a Fluke meter back in the 80's and used it for a few years, in may have been a 77, but I forget. Around 2000 I switched jobs and bought a new Fluke and gave the old one to my dad. Pop passed away in 2021 and cleaning out his mess I ran across the old fluke and it had good batteries in it so dad was still using it. So about forty years old and still works fine. I added it to my Fluke test meter collection.

 

[tool_scrounge]

My choice? Used Or NOS Fluke volt meters. I have bought a number of them over the years, from Mil Spec Fluke 27/fm meters (used to be amazing deals on them on EBay, literally built like a brick) to newer 87x meters. Even some of the really old Fluke 8060 push button meters.

I was always curious on how accurate they all were, so on a whim I found a reasonably priced Fluke 515a Portable Calibrator. It is a precision voltage and resistance calibration source for on-site calibration.

What surprised me was that all the Fluke meters were well within specification. So I prefer used Fluke meters for cheap. They also hold up well to abuse.

 

[tiredoldironworker]

I have a Fluke military 27 and have used it for DECADES. They show up on ebay for around 30 bux. I don't think a normal human can kill them.

 

[zendriver]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008236943792.html?

I have a couple of Asian brands similar, I purchased wanting an AC (then DC) amp clamp, including inrush.

The clamps are quite accurate and the other functions are as accurate as my old Fluke.

Paid under $25 for each.

 

[PoorUB]

So I prefer used Fluke meters for cheap. They also hold up well to abuse.

IMO, the way they hold up to use and abuse over time, Fluke is the cheaper meter because you just buy it once.
I have owned Field Piece and others I can't recall and none lasted more than a couple years. So what did you gain if you have to replace a meter every few years or run a Fluke forever? The fluke I bought in 2000 lasted me about eight years until it took a dive of a scissor lift 20 feet in the air. It failed the drop test! The one that replaced it is in the drawer in my work bench, so it is about 18 years old. I have a Fluke electronic thermometer that is about 20 years old, plus an 87III about the same age. So thee Fluke VOMs and a thermometer.

 

[dyermullet]

The grey tips come off, they are isolators when working on components in tight spaces.

That Klein meter is junk. It times out and shuts off way too quickly. Any project I have used it on it always off. My fluke doesn't do that. It is comical how fast it shuts off.


Since it has a button for ac DC everytime you turn it back on have to set voltage.
Just a horrible design.

 

[Cruzan80]

My choice? Used Or NOS Fluke volt meters. I have bought a number of them over the years, from Mil Spec Fluke 27/fm meters (used to be amazing deals on them on EBay, literally built like a brick) to newer 87x meters. Even some of the really old Fluke 8060 push button meters.

I was always curious on how accurate they all were, so on a whim I found a reasonably priced Fluke 515a Portable Calibrator. It is a precision voltage and resistance calibration source for on-site calibration.

What surprised me was that all the Fluke meters were well within specification. So I prefer used Fluke meters for cheap. They also hold up well to abuse.

Really hoping that you somehow confirmed that the Portable Calibrator was in spec/calibrated.

Not a big deal for 3.5digit DMMs (the calibrator would have to be MASSIVELY out of spec for it to matter for those), but absolutely for anything precision. Hence my joking comment above about a bench meter...

 

[IcarusLSC]

I've got a couple Flukes and a couple Innovas still kicking around. Not had any issues yet other then a heard time trying to find a fuse for Fluke 115 I use much of the time. No one around here had one :/

 

[mikedodge]

You had a harbor freight one and primarily use it for automotive type use. For that I use the cheapest one I can find that uses 9V battery. It does its job and I'm not going to spend much on a good Fluke type meter that's only going to get greasy or put down where it might get dropped or whatever else that might damage it.

 

[Rinspeed]

Not had any issues yet other then a heard time trying to find a fuse for Fluke 115 I use much of the time. No around here had one :/

Lol, I had to look because they are just standard configuration fuses. They are 11 amp fuses and not many EEs design a circuit with 11 amp fuses, except Fluke I guess. Bussmann KTK-11 is what you're looking for.

 

[AdAstra]

Listen to this guy.

Also discussed here.

Brymen BM037 is a solid one meter choice for most work, unless you know you’ll need inline current measurement.

I often grab it over my stable of larger Flukes at work. But if that’s not in budget, the Uni-T 210E seems decent.

I've answered a similar question a number of times.

1. Fluke is my favorite when someone else is paying the bills. I really like the 87-3, 87-5 and the 187. I don't care for the 113-117. My issues with them is the lack of Touch Hold which is a great Fluke feature. When you set the meter to touch hold it waits for a stable reading then freezes the display. This is great because that means you can keep your eyes on the probes, not the screen since the reading you want will be there when you remove the probes from the sparking bits. Most Fluke's also have very fast continuity checking. If you are willing to look used, sometimes the old (like sold when Regan was in office) Fluke 27's can be had on eBay. They are very robust and can be used as bricks if the need is there. The Fluke 101 may be a good deal if you want a very basic but very well made meter for likely $50-60. It will not do current ranges. Amazon's price is high but I think other sites have it for less.

2. Second to Fluke, and the meter family I typically recommend the most, is something made by Brymen. They are an OEM for many good meters including the Matco MD251 and MD257 (often very good deals used on Ebay). They also make the GreenLee MD820A I used in the garage. If you look at either their smaller or bigger family of meters (Matco is the smaller family, the MD820A is the larger) you will see the family resemblance. Any of those are very solid meters and all but equal to Fluke in terms of safety and accuracy. Only the lack of touch hold bothers me.

3. Depending on your uses and honestly, one I always suggest as a second meter is the Uni-T UT210E (must be the E version). This is a low cost clamp meter that can read AC and DC and down into the mA range. I will not claim Amazon has a good price, I recall these being ~$50 not the current asking price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0188WD1NE?tag=atomicindus08-20
These are nice because you can measure current through a wire without breaking the circuit. Note, it measures net current so if you clamp it around an extension cord you will see zero net current even if you are clearly loading the cord. You can only measure one leg at a time. Anyway, thanks to having voltage, capacitance and resistance ranges it really does most of what you need. The electrical safety features aren't as good as those used by Fluke and Brymen but that is less important if you are doing mostly home/automotive (non-EV) work. Of the above options this might be the one I would get as an only meter so long as you know you don't need inline current measurements and you don't need temperature measurements. It, along with the Fluke 101 are the only ones that are available for around $50-60 new. The others are ebay searches.

 

[Lassen Forge]

I bought a Simpson 260 decades ago at a flea market, a few years back I got tired of dealing with the broken bakelite case and corroded battery terminals, so I bought one for parts (with the cool leather case and leads) for $50, fixed it, and I still use the beast.

I did want something more automotive, so I bit the bullet and got a Fluke 87V under the "buy once, cry once" program... but yeah, it was worth it.

Between those 2, and a cheapassed radio shack special (under $20) I threw in my saddlebag on the bike for on the road diagnostics, got it...

 

[GTO]

This is the Snap on (Fluke) vs. everybody else thread

 

[slomaro3.4]

Well I ended up needing a multimeter sooner than expected and grabbed the astoai DM6000AR off of amazon. It's easier to use than my old HF meter and it takes 9v batteries which I have on hand so that's nice. I don't think I'd get the value out of something pricey, mostly doing continuity checks in old automotive wiring.

 

[98ssuck]

Fluke guy here. Never been impressed with the uei or field piece offerings.

I’ve got
87
79
381
3000fc
T5-600
T+ pro

They all have their place the 79 and 87 have a bunch of overlap.
The form factor of the t5 is amazing. Puts the reading in the same direction as you’re already looking at while holding the leads.

 

[Rinspeed]

Fluke guy here. Never been impressed with the uei or field piece offerings.

I’ve got
87
79
381
3000fc
T5-600
T+ pro

They all have their place the 79 and 87 have a bunch of overlap.
The form factor of the t5 is amazing. Puts the reading in the same direction as you’re already looking at while holding the leads.

I agree the T5 is an awesome meter for basic home and auto use and it's the one I grab the most.

 

[Dakotadadv8]

Had a Klein from HD to start and upgraded to Fluke 117 from HD. I liked the non contact voltage feature on the Fluke.

 

[PCMusicGuy]

For anything important I use a Fluke 179 or a Uni-T UT210E clamp meter (reads down to the 4-20ma DC range). At work I have a cheap older Craftsman unit and in a junk drawer at home I have some cheapo TackLife meter. They all do the job.

 

[cannuck]

I bought a Fluke 114 basic multimeter in 2018 (around $110). A few years later I bought a Klein for around $100 because I needed to use DC ammeter function.

I have exactly same as primaries in my test drawer.

 

[Wrench97]

Well I ended up needing a multimeter sooner than expected and grabbed the astoai DM6000AR off of amazon. It's easier to use than my old HF meter and it takes 9v batteries which I have on hand so that's nice. I don't think I'd get the value out of something pricey, mostly doing continuity checks in old automotive wiring.

DMM is probably the last tool I would use for that. Old wires need to be load tested, I've seen too many circuits check out ok with a DMM and not be able to light a test light.

 

[yyc_ranger_4x4]

I've had two daily use Ideal AC/DC clamp meters for daily commercial electrical service work, my original one lives at my cabin for use in checking off grid solar systems. The best part of the Ideal is the extra display on the bottom of the meter when you can't twist meter around in tight space to see the main display. Aside from that, I've got about 5-6 Flukes including the 87V-Max, 1587, 117, 376 clamp, 773, and a 289 that are kept for heavy troubleshooting and certain circumstances.

 

[engineer2]

I like my Fluke 87V MAX for benchtop use. For more digits I use my Keithley 199.
My daily go-to is a $10 Craftsman multimeter. It's smaller and it tests batteries.
I do need to get a nice clamp-amp meter for AC/DC current readings.

 

[swsman]

I like my Fluke 87V MAX for benchtop use. For more digits I use my Keithley 199.
My daily go-to is a $10 Craftsman multimeter. It's smaller and it tests batteries.
I do need to get a nice clamp-amp meter for AC/DC current readings.

I have a Klein CL390, does clamp function you are looking for.
Of course there are better quality meters, been happy with it for what I paid Jan '25 ($68).

 

[mgeoffriau]

I last bought a Klein clamp meter when I wanted one with a specific capacitance mode. Had (well, still have) another non-clamp Klein meter which was fine as well. And a couple HF freebies kicking around.

 

[cvairwerks]

Analog meters are way better for continuity testing, unless you need an exact ohm measurement. I can ring out a 100 wire harness in less than half the time with an analog meter than someone with a digital. I don't need to see the meter settle to see if there is continuity. With my 260 set to Rx1, if it gets past halfway on the scale, then the ring is good.

 

[Biotec]

old Fluke 23 about 40 years
the Kline was in 2016 Consumer Home Despot low cost Need a meter quick for Electrical problem while I was visiting family one weekend.

Back when the electrical distributors and there was electronics distributors I believe I bought this in the early 90s on sale old stock I believe it was made 1987 or 1988
Fluke 8060A




6 or 7 years old ago had to replace the leads got longer leads 1000 Volt CAT III/ 3 rated The old leads were leaking They failed the leak test. Near the probe ends and near where you plug it into the meter a 1000 volts It was detecting voltage coming through So the ends got snipped off and cable thrown away most likely due to hand oil break in the jacket down installation break breakdown.

Like with most my woodworking equipment everything is ancient.

At work we use Fluke predominantly but there was some of the low cost meters that were bought for the guys that worked out in the field wet conditions and things like that So those were those were more of would say a throwaway Meter.

The Kline is probably the best overall tool for to do it yourself (DIY) or entry level electrician.
The HVAC Techs liked a product called Fieldpiece The lower cost I thought on par with the brand Klein.

For checking current the clamp on is a good choice For motors and things like that you're trying to figure out what's drawing too much current or popping a breaker You don't have to know all the insurance and outs of what you're seeing you just need to understand that your motors rated for 8 amps they should be running steady at about 8 amps or a little less that's the advantage.

The Kline is probably the best overall tool for to do it (DIY) yourself or entry level electrician.

 

[ToolFanGeoff]

Disclaimer: I know the OP has made his purchase.
That being said, I have three Fluke meters for different applications.
Fluke 77 for automotive
Fluke 325 for the clamp on current meter AC and DC
Fluke 105b for HVAC - specifically for the capacitor test feature.
I have several other meters, the above are my "go to".
Related story: Two weeks ago my mother had here air conditioner stop working. She thought I was too busy to check it out, so she had an HVAC guy come buy. He was trying to sell her a new A/C unit for $6 - 10K. Luckily, she had the sense to say no and called me. With in 15 minutes, I tested the capacitor, and the next day installed a new one. $20. Her A/C system is 10? years old. Back to working great. It felt good to help my mom out - she has done so much for me and my family.

 

[IcarusLSC]

Lol, I had to look because they are just standard configuration fuses. They are 11 amp fuses and not many EEs design a circuit with 11 amp fuses, except Fluke I guess. Bussmann KTK-11 is what you're looking for.

I shouldn't have had such issues finding a fuse, but like many things up here its hard to find stuff at times :/ I went to SIX different places before an electrical shop had one finally!

I used to have a Unit-T meter that was decent, dunno where it went though. I think my brother 'borrowed' it :/

 

[Ohmthis]

I shouldn't have had such issues finding a fuse, but like many things up here its hard to find stuff at times :/ I went to SIX different places before an electrical shop had one finally!

I used to have a Unit-T meter that was decent, dunno where it went though. I think my brother 'borrowed' it :/

Most of the time the fuse in the meter is rated to 1000v. Most fuses that we find are only rated to 600v. If we used the smaller voltage rated fuse and have a fault at more than 600v, it could cause a major problem!

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

I use 2 volt meters

1. PowerProbe
2. Innova multimeter.... good tool

Buy Innova 3340 | Professional Automotive Multimeter - Innova Electronics

We offer automotive DMM-3340, a cutting-edge digital multimeter designed for precise vehicle diagnostics, featuring advanced functions for accurate readings.

www.innova.com

 

[Roger.donaldston]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008236943792.html?

Been wanting an amp clamp for automotive and I’ve seen this for $50 on Amazon. For $27 shipped it can’t hurt too bad to try this one. Has really good reviews, even comparing the accuracy with Flukes. If that turns out to be false then I guess I’ll just have to get a fluke. Thanks for the link!

 

[Schurkey]

I traded-in a "Fox Valley" meter for a Mac Tools-branded Fluke 88 (not 88V) in the early 1990s. The Fluke listed for over $300 at that time--$325 sticks in my mind. But that works out to something like ten dollars per year.

I had to buy an upgraded "contact" kit, replacing pink contacts with new, grey contacts to make the display digits work properly. God bless eBay, and the price was very modest--under $30 shipped to my door.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373640674081?

I bought an eBay lot of damaged/defective/warranty-return Bosch/OTC items perhaps ten years ago. There were multiple compression testers, fuel pressure testers, and multimeters. One of the multimeters was dead, the others seem to work although I can't guarantee their accuracy. I use them for non-critical testing when the accuracy isn't that important--kind of a go/no-go meter. Gave one to my nephew, still have two or three stashed around the house.
Photo shamelessly stolen from eBay, but this is a representation of the meters I received, minus the accessory tips for the probes, and without the instruction manual.

 

[KnurledNut]

Lol, I had to look because they are just standard configuration fuses. They are 11 amp fuses and not many EEs design a circuit with 11 amp fuses, except Fluke I guess. Bussmann KTK-11 is what you're looking for.

I don’t think they make a KTK-11.
The DMM-11A would be my choice.
https://specs.thefuseshop.com/Bussmann_DMM_Datasheet.pdf

 

[Mr_B]

Been wanting an amp clamp for automotive and I’ve seen this for $50 on Amazon. For $27 shipped it can’t hurt too bad to try this one. Has really good reviews, even comparing the accuracy with Flukes. If that turns out to be false then I guess I’ll just have to get a fluke. Thanks for the link!

It a good tool for basic automotive and common multimeter requirements.
Don't expect it be one meter for all scenarios .
It more than accurate enough in automotive testing (readings are stable and repeatable) and has some useful functions plus the screen is a delight to read the data in any situation.
I do like the memory list function as saves human errors of remembering a previous reading value wrong and going down wrong diag path as easy double check the correct values you got if save them as doing initial diag checks .
From amp clamp perspective it not good at low milliamp readings (not many are besides dedicated low amp clamps that output voltage range scale for oscilloscope or multimeter in compatible voltage range setting mode) plus side is higher readings over 500mA read accurate and stable, no real drift & repeat readings be always same .
Reads alternator and starter current easily, good for fuel pumps etc, it a little chunky vs a dedicated scope style clamp but you be paying likes of 150 bucks for usable ones of those and need a high and low amp version .
I'm on V1.4 firmware and have no issues & for under 30 bucks you could not really complain, quite a remarkable effort for this price .
The stock now includes colored rings on lead ports for easy identity + - & come with a basic soft cloth bag, I did buy a nice bag for it at time of purchase as reports were it didn't come with one but the brand is proactive at listening to buyer remarks and making some improvements .
gets a fair bit of use in my daily auto shop electrical testing as simple quick first test tool, generally comes with me for mobile work and parts yard when hunting an elec component and may want do some basic checks it likely good .
Meter also cheap enough loose or break without ruining your day too much lol .