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let's see your craftsman block grinders

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torqueman2002

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Slight detour for purposes of Block grinder genealogy.

I see clear family resemblances to the HD Blocks in the following pictures.

CM 0.50 HP m-115.6842 115V

Separate base with cooling tray and tool rests attached.
CM%2050%20HP%20115_6842%20SeattleCL%203FqV.jpg


Metal framed eye shields, but different spark arrestor locations on exhaust ports.
CM%2050%20HP%20115_6842%20SeattleCL%20cIWC.jpg


CM%2050%20HP%20115_6842%20SeattleCL%20g89J.jpg


It is listed on Seattle CL, for $220! :lol:
https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/6013662173.html
 
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torqueman2002

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exmaxima1 said:
7" wheels. Still not worth anywhere near that amount in its present condition (needs bearings, cord, paint...). I'm thinking something south of $100
Click to expand...
I agree, and I read that the seller has been trying to sell it for some time.

I would take it, if some one wanted to donate it for restoration and display in a(my) Craftsman grinder museum.
:lol:
 
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WWShop

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So this morning I took my 1HP apart to clean out the inside and to my surprise it was very clean inside. When I went to put everything back together, it wouldn't run. It initially would hum real loud and then stop. I poked around inside and now it hums really loud, slowly spins and then quits. I tried spinning the wheel by hand and starting it, but that does nothing either. I have no clue what I did. Did I somehow blow the start capacitor???
 
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Outlawmws

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If the shaft isn't binding look for a broken wire or something disconnected first. The cap IS old, so that could have shorted out or open as well.
 
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WWShop

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Outlawmws said:
If the shaft isn't binding look for a broken wire or something disconnected first. The cap IS old, so that could have shorted out or open as well.
Click to expand...

The shaft spins freely when off, but when I turn it on and the grinder hums and then quits on its own the shaft tightens up a bit. I don't see anything disconnected or broken for wires.
 
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WWShop

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Outlawmws said:
discharge and test the cap, if that looks good did you crosswise something when reassembling?
Click to expand...

None of the wires are crossed. Its so odd because I have taken these apart before, I just am at a loss. How do I test the capacitor?
 
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Outlawmws

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Electrolytic Caps have polarity (think Battery) you discharge it (Short across the poles) so it has no charge.

Lets see if I can remember this cold:

Set up an old fashioned analog VOM to ohms and measure over one polarity, then the other then back. the VOM charges the cap a bit and you can see the needle bounce as it connects and discharges in a pass. if its doing this, its not open or shorted. if not, replace.

This does NOT tell you if the cap has fallen out of spec just if it has had catastrophic failure.
 
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torqueman2002

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Outlawmws said:
discharge and test the cap, if that looks good did you crosswise something when reassembling?
Click to expand...
:thumbup::thumbup:

The humming sound is a symptom of the start-up circuit not being energized.

There is a wiring diagram on the inside cover of many Block grinders. Verify the wires are correct and check the terminals for a good, snug, clean connection.

Check post #3 in the following thread for a diagram, if yours doesn't have one; also in that post is a link to other Block diagrams.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539

Post #5 has: Capacitor Testing, Safe Discharging and Other Related Information
 
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WWShop

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torqueman2002 said:
:thumbup::thumbup:

The humming sound is a symptom of the start-up circuit not being energized.

There is a wiring diagram on the inside cover of many Block grinders. Verify the wires are correct and check the terminals for a good, snug, clean connection.

Check post #3 in the following thread for a diagram, if yours doesn't have one; also in that post is a link to other Block diagrams.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539

Post #5 has: Capacitor Testing, Safe Discharging and Other Related Information
Click to expand...

Some night this week I will double check the wiring. I did look at the wiring diagram and everything seemed in order. When I opened the block today I didn't disconnect any wires. The only wire I saw that had come loose was for the lamp, so I reconnected and the light worked. Maybe I missed a loose connection somewhere :headscrat:headscrat:headscrat
 
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exmaxima1

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Outlawmws said:
Electrolytic Caps have polarity (think Battery) you discharge it (Short across the poles) so it has no charge.

Lets see if I can remember this cold:

Set up an old fashioned analog VOM to ohms and measure over one polarity, then the other then back. the VOM charges the cap a bit and you can see the needle bounce as it connects and discharges in a pass. if its doing this, its not open or shorted. if not, replace.

This does NOT tell you if the cap has fallen out of spec just if it has had catastrophic failure.
Click to expand...

I agree that this is a valid means to test a capacitor, and it works with most analog or digital voltmeters. But don't expect to find a polarity on an AC motor capacitor--much like crossover capacitors in speakers, the capacitor is a non-polarized type. Start and run motor capacitors are both AC type.
 
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torqueman2002

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WWShop said:
So this morning I took my 1HP apart to clean out the inside and to my surprise it was very clean inside. When I went to put everything back together, it wouldn't run. It initially would hum real loud and then stop. I poked around inside and now it hums really loud, slowly spins and then quits. I tried spinning the wheel by hand and starting it, but that does nothing either. I have no clue what I did. Did I somehow blow the start capacitor???
Click to expand...
I re-read your post.

It is possible that the arbor shaft will spin with the power off, but bind when turned on.

Another member had this same symptom.
See JZiggy's 10-09-2015 post, above, or click link below.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5181709&postcount=7017

If you don't have 0.010" shims, see some 'common' house hold items below.

Shim%20thickness%20House%20Items.jpg
 
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exmaxima1

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Farmall450

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exmaxima1 said:
None of those are Block grinders, The middle link ($80 grinder) is a pre-block, and actually a pretty solid machine except for having no end guards---same as your 1/4hp restoration. The others are not worth much (to me anyway).
Click to expand...

I mean, a pre-block and a block are pretty close. I feel the guys in here would like any Craftsman ones from the era. :dunno:
 
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exmaxima1

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Farmall450 said:
I mean, a pre-block and a block are pretty close. I feel the guys in here would like any Craftsman ones from the era. :dunno:
Click to expand...

There's quite a bit of significant differences, especially in the motor construction (pre-blocks have much bigger rotors and stators). AFAIK, the pre-blocks were made by a different manufacturer than the blocks. But I agree that most guys would like either designs. :thumbup:

You should add your restoration to my thread on pre-blocks:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339921&highlight=pre+block+love
 
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Farmall450

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exmaxima1 said:
There's quite a bit of significant differences, especially in the motor construction (pre-blocks have much bigger rotors and stators). AFAIK, the pre-blocks were made by a different manufacturer than the blocks. But I agree that most guys would like either designs. :thumbup:

You should add your restoration to my thread on pre-blocks:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339921&highlight=pre+block+love
Click to expand...

Will do, it's buried in this thread as well.
Edit: Page 290
 
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Outlawmws

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Dr. Block, you are entitled to your opinion on the presumed risk for older stones.

IMO, properly stored, (no floods for example) and passing the ring test well. I see no reason not to use them, and I have, and I've never had a wheel explode or otherwise self destruct.
 
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torqueman2002

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Outlawmws said:
Dr. Block, you are entitled to your opinion on the presumed risk for older stones.

IMO, properly stored, (no floods for example) and passing the ring test well. I see no reason not to use them, and I have, and I've never had a wheel explode or otherwise self destruct.
Click to expand...
I do not disagree.

When I see evidence of rust, and general signs of improper grinding stone use, the pucker factor takes over.

I am positive that there are vintage and used stones out there that are fine and safe to use.

I choose an over abundance of caution. New, good stones for my uses are inexpensive.

My intent is to bring the topic to the attention of those who might not be aware of the possible issue.

For more information.
Encyclopaedia of Occupational Health and Safety
Grinding and Polishing

http://www.iloencyclopaedia.org/par...sing-and-metal-working/grinding-and-polishing

UPDATE - April 6, 2017
I contacted Norton (Saint-Gobian) customer service today, Tel: 254-918-2313.

The representative, confirmed that a properly store/used vitrified grinding stone does not have a shelf life.

The key is the stones must have been in a cool & dry environment and pass a ring test.

This is not the same for rosin based grinding stones; they do have a shelf-life. I do not have/use rosin base stones. I do not have any information about them to share.
:)
 
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Rileysan

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Outlawmws said:
Dr. Block, you are entitled to your opinion on the presumed risk for older stones.

IMO, properly stored, (no floods for example) and passing the ring test well. I see no reason not to use them, and I have, and I've never had a wheel explode or otherwise self destruct.
Click to expand...
I am curious what the "ring" test is.

I have never been overly cautious about older stones (I often re-use them if they look good) but if there is a reasonably easy test, I'd like to use it.

Brian

Sent from my LGL41C using Tapatalk
 
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torqueman2002

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Rileysan said:
I am curious what the "ring" test is.

I have never been overly cautious about older stones (I often re-use them if they look good) but if there is a reasonably easy test, I'd like to use it.

Brian
Click to expand...
Hi Brian,

I posted a YouTube video below.

For more information, see the "Craftsman Block motor Bench Grinders - What's the Fuss? (resource information)" link, in my signature line, below.

This is for vitrified grinding stones, the most common used on home grinders.
<a href="<iframe width=" 560"="" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NDtL4gisZYo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NDtL4gisZYo" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
 
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Tonellin

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Good score today...never been used
 

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Duker

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Tonellin said:
Good score today...never been used
Click to expand...



You guys are just messing with us now right.... ? This grinder is like the mythical single fruit cake that gets passed around year to year... some of you guys are just passing it around to each other to tease the rest of us... :)

Fantastic score!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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-Brent-

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Some updated pics of my set-up, which is soon to change. After the years of using them I am fairly sure I am going to consolidate.

The 1/3 hp Baldor (ot) is going to be sold and then I may pull the 1/2 hp block with the flap grinder on it and put it on the shelf. The other two are the most frequently used and I'd love to have some additional working space around them.
 
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