C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I think the garage size in relation to the house is juuust right. 
Above 1200 Sq/FT T.h.e...e…x….p…..a……n…….s……..i………o……….n
- Thread starter MAYOR28
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
I think the garage size in relation to the house is juuust right.
I think it looks good as well!
This was actually my number one fear with the whole build. Would it be too big (look too big) next to the house? Some people have some huuuge pole barns right next to their houses, and I have always thought this looked a little tacky, especially if the architecture didnt match (steel building next to brick house, for instance).
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. And then some framing for the East end dormer. They ran out of underlayment, so they got a little more, plus some 2-by's for the dormer framing and roof framing. 
Starting to get some of the second floor decking/underlayment in place:
A view from the second floor, this was my first time in the space. It is looking very spacious!!!!
A view out of one of the dormers. We almost really messed up the dormers, we had planned for them to be 6' wide, and all of the 'plans' (sketches) showed them at 6', but the contractor had them estimated ($$) at 4' wide. I did a quick sketch of the building with 4' wide dormers and it looked stupid
. So, we re-worked back to the 6' width. It is much superior.
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A view from the second floor, this was my first time in the space. It is looking very spacious!!!!
A view out of one of the dormers. We almost really messed up the dormers, we had planned for them to be 6' wide, and all of the 'plans' (sketches) showed them at 6', but the contractor had them estimated ($$) at 4' wide. I did a quick sketch of the building with 4' wide dormers and it looked stupid
. So, we re-worked back to the 6' width. It is much superior. .
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I have been working on the lighting layout; I started by studying many of the layouts in this thread (HERE). These 2 threads are super helpful 
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What do you think of this?
It may be overkill, so I am looking for some real advice. Can I scale back the quantity of the fixtures?
As shown I have, 26 48" double fixtures for LED bulbs (no ballasts). I plan on putting these 26 on 2 or 3 separate circuits. The fixtures and bulbs I plan on using all come from the Sticky Thread HERE.
I am working on a layout for the upstairs, but I think I will use the same fixtures, but with difusers (since the ceiling is less than 8'). Probably end up with a simple 2 rows down the center of the ceiling and 1 or 2 fixtures in each dormer.
..
. What do you think of this?
It may be overkill, so I am looking for some real advice. Can I scale back the quantity of the fixtures?
As shown I have, 26 48" double fixtures for LED bulbs (no ballasts). I plan on putting these 26 on 2 or 3 separate circuits. The fixtures and bulbs I plan on using all come from the Sticky Thread HERE.
I am working on a layout for the upstairs, but I think I will use the same fixtures, but with difusers (since the ceiling is less than 8'). Probably end up with a simple 2 rows down the center of the ceiling and 1 or 2 fixtures in each dormer.
..
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wasfast
Well-known member
My initial thought was the 2 rows of glass at the top. High enough so folks can't see directly in, lets in the most light.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If it was mine, I would probably choose to put the windows at the top. But having them lower wouldn't be a deal breaker either, as long as prying eyes can't easily see inside.
Regarding your lighting layout, I think you will easily have every square inch of your garage well lit with them all on. Having too much light is sure better than having too little!
Regarding your lighting layout, I think you will easily have every square inch of your garage well lit with them all on. Having too much light is sure better than having too little!
I am trying to plan out the ceiling installation (which the wife and I will tackle ourselves). I have selected the following material for the ceiling, it is 1/4" corrugated steel, 29 gauge.
The question I have is should I install some furring strips to the bottom of the trusses so I can install the ceiling to the strips, or should I install the ceiling directly to the bottom cord of the trusses?
If I install furring strips, then I can run the wiring for the lights in the gaps between the bottom cord and the metal. And I can install the panels with the ribs parallel to the truss cords.
What would look best, corrugated ceiling parallel or perpendicular to the trusses?
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The question I have is should I install some furring strips to the bottom of the trusses so I can install the ceiling to the strips, or should I install the ceiling directly to the bottom cord of the trusses?
If I install furring strips, then I can run the wiring for the lights in the gaps between the bottom cord and the metal. And I can install the panels with the ribs parallel to the truss cords.
What would look best, corrugated ceiling parallel or perpendicular to the trusses?
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wasfast
Well-known member
There's plenty of examples here but my own preference (appearance wise) is front to back when viewed from the door. However, it's going to be far easier to install if you are perpendicular to the floor joists. I wouldn't do furring strips myself.
GLTHFJ60
Well-known member
Exciting!
wasfast
Well-known member
Agreed on the difficulty of "parallel" to the joists. I was just talking from an aesthetics standpoint.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
HUGE is how it should be! 
I think the size is perfect...I think your friends are just a little jealous, but didn't want to say so. 
I think the size is perfect...I think your friends are just a little jealous, but didn't want to say so. Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Subscribed!
I spent some quality time outside in the 38 degree weather the other night. I was told that they would start final excavation the following day, so I had to wrap up the downspout piping I wanted to add.
2 spouts on each short side, all tied together at the SW corner, with pipe running into the backyard. The belled sewer pipe was a snap to put together. 10' section make quick work of this.
I also installed the first of 2 conduits for under the concrete. This one runs from the SW to the SE corner. This is just in case I want to pull some wire later in the future without having to go up into the ceiling.
The other conduit under the floor will run from the NW to the SE corner, in a stepped path (long run across the middle, parallel to the roof peak). This will allow me to cut in an outlet or two in the floor at a later date.
2 spouts on each short side, all tied together at the SW corner, with pipe running into the backyard. The belled sewer pipe was a snap to put together
. 10' section make quick work of this.I also installed the first of 2 conduits for under the concrete. This one runs from the SW to the SE corner. This is just in case I want to pull some wire later in the future without having to go up into the ceiling.
The other conduit under the floor will run from the NW to the SE corner, in a stepped path (long run across the middle, parallel to the roof peak). This will allow me to cut in an outlet or two in the floor at a later date.
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This brings me to a question:
Does 100 amps of service seem too little for a shop this size?
I don't want to be power limited, but I also don't want to blow the budget on something I will never use. I did the maths, and with what I can figure is the worst worst case ( air compressor running, 2 mini-splits, lights, fans, and a welder), I would be drawing 106+ amps.
I had been planning on pulling the garage power off of the house, but there is really only 100 (maybe 150, maybe) available. I am waiting for the power company to get back to me about adding new service to the shop in order to get 200 or more amp service.
Does 100 amps of service seem too little for a shop this size?
I don't want to be power limited, but I also don't want to blow the budget on something I will never use. I did the maths, and with what I can figure is the worst worst case ( air compressor running, 2 mini-splits, lights, fans, and a welder), I would be drawing 106+ amps.
I had been planning on pulling the garage power off of the house, but there is really only 100 (maybe 150, maybe) available. I am waiting for the power company to get back to me about adding new service to the shop in order to get 200 or more amp service.
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I have been working on the lighting layout; I started by studying many of the layouts in this thread (HERE). These 2 threads are super helpful
What do you think of this?
It may be overkill, so I am looking for some real advice. Can I scale back the quantity of the fixtures?
As shown I have, 26 48" double fixtures for LED bulbs (no ballasts). I plan on putting these 26 on 2 or 3 separate circuits. The fixtures and bulbs I plan on using all come from the Sticky Thread HERE.
I am working on a layout for the upstairs, but I think I will use the same fixtures, but with difusers (since the ceiling is less than 8'). Probably end up with a simple 2 rows down the center of the ceiling and 1 or 2 fixtures in each dormer.
..
How should I group the lights?
I was thinking in 2 or 3 banks, or I could do quadrants.
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I run 100amps out to my 24 x 24 and have yet to pop a breaker, and I have lots of equipment that pull quite a bit of power. the (7)120V receptacles on the right side of the garage are on a dedicated 20AMP breaker, same with the left. I have (12)T8, 4' long 4 bulb fixtures on the ceiling on a dedicated 15AMP breaker, and a single 220V 50AMP plug on its own breaker
unless you are going to be powering some pretty crazy stuff in your loft, I see no reason to go over 100AMP's, maybe 150 MAX
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have three 8' four tube T12 fixtures, 12 - 4' LED work lights, 2-1/2 ton mini-split, 60 gallon air compressor, a Bridgeport, a lathe, refrigerator, mig welder, electric on-demand water heater, all kinds of power hungry power tools and have yet to trip a breaker. All of this is on 100 amp service.
YMMV
YMMV
That is quite a bit all on 100A. What is the most you've had running at the same time?
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My excavator informed me that I am an idiot, and should have used Schedule 40 PVC for the downspouts, not DWV pipe, since they will be buried. 
So, last night I ripped out the section in front of the doors and started replacing it.
Should be easier the second time around, since I know what it is supposed to look like, just need to replace it with an exact copy.....
So, last night I ripped out the section in front of the doors and started replacing it.
Should be easier the second time around, since I know what it is supposed to look like, just need to replace it with an exact copy.....
A little preview of things to come, this bad boy got delivered a few days ago! I am very excited to see this get installed!
The ceiling height with force us to build a platform for the stair to sit on, but I am hoping that it only results in 1-2 steps up from the concrete floor.
Should be a nice little area near the entrance door, I will probably build in a bench or small closet/shoe storage area here.
The ceiling height with force us to build a platform for the stair to sit on, but I am hoping that it only results in 1-2 steps up from the concrete floor.
Should be a nice little area near the entrance door, I will probably build in a bench or small closet/shoe storage area here.
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understandable...I did quite a lot of thinking before finally pulling the trigger on sending the power out to the garage. in the grand scheme of things, I have no desire, especially by myself, to have that many things on in the garage at the same time. plus, I am running a 100amp breaker off of my main house breaker, which is a 200amp service, so I don't see ever having an issue with pulling too much load to justify raising any of my service
too lazy to look back to see if you are doing the electrical yourself or not, but if you are, don't hesitate to call me if you need a hand. went through and did all of this **** to both my garage and inside my house...easy, but time consuming
BIG thank you to the professionals over at PROLIGHTING for their help. The thread here was a huge help in helping me find PROLIGHTING. If anyone is considering new shop lighting, definitely give that thread a read.
Dylan at PROLIGHTING helped me with the upper and lower lighting layouts.
Here is the lower floor:
For the upper floor, I will add an additional light in each dormer, and 1 or 2 in the corner stair well.
I also ordered an outdoor LED floodlight from them, and retrofit kits for my attached garage florescent fixtures. I cannot say enough good things about PROLIGHTING (so far, can't wait for the order to arrive).
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Dylan at PROLIGHTING helped me with the upper and lower lighting layouts.
Here is the lower floor:
For the upper floor, I will add an additional light in each dormer, and 1 or 2 in the corner stair well.
I also ordered an outdoor LED floodlight from them, and retrofit kits for my attached garage florescent fixtures. I cannot say enough good things about PROLIGHTING (so far, can't wait for the order to arrive).
.
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I finished re-laying the drainage pipe. Little bit harder with the schedule 40 pipe, but also easier, since I knew exactly what it should look like when it was done.
Today I cleaned up the inside, I put the spiral staircase pipe on the wall so it would't be in the way for the final grading.
I also highlighted where the excavator needs to dig deeper for my lift pads. I went way larger than I really need, just in case I decide to get a 2-post later...
Panorama of the interior (from where the stairs will be located):
Today I cleaned up the inside, I put the spiral staircase pipe on the wall so it would't be in the way for the final grading.
I also highlighted where the excavator needs to dig deeper for my lift pads. I went way larger than I really need, just in case I decide to get a 2-post later...
Panorama of the interior (from where the stairs will be located):
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Progress has been really slow ever since Thanksgiving. My contractor seems to be preoccupied with other jobs, so I have attempted to express my concerns that finishing my job does not seem like a priority. Little to nothing has been done since the Monday after thanksgiving.
Nearly 2 weeks of stagnation......very frustrating.
Nearly 2 weeks of stagnation......very frustrating.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Progress has been really slow ever since Thanksgiving. My contractor seems to be preoccupied with other jobs, so I have attempted to express my concerns that finishing my job does not seem like a priority. Little to nothing has been done since the Monday after thanksgiving.
Nearly 2 weeks of stagnation......very frustrating.
Maybe your check bounced.
I think I have decided to have the local electric co-op install 'new' service to the garage to ensure that we have enough power, now and forever. New 200 amp service will cost an additional ~$700 (delta from the house back-feed), but it should ensure that we have more than enough power for any future hopes and dreams.
I have been wrestling with this decision for most of the weekend, I was worried that the electrical company would charge us an extra $20 a month for the second service, but it looks like this is not the case.
I have been wrestling with this decision for most of the weekend, I was worried that the electrical company would charge us an extra $20 a month for the second service, but it looks like this is not the case.