Vintage Air Compressors

[TRWham]

So I'm pretty convinced that its a Wayne of some sort. Quite possibly a 6400, but I'm having a hell of a time finding any info on Wayne as a company, much less my compressor. Is there a place I could call that might have information about it and/or sell parts for it? I need a minimum of 2 "spring and disc" type exhaust valves, but id like to replace all of them if possible and do a full tune up if I can afford it. Ive talked to a shop near me but they thought it was an older devilbiss based off of my pictures, but I wasn't able to turn up anything that looked the same.

Wayne compressors are related to (some models apparently descended from) Westinghouse compressors (as in WABCO) and later LeROI and Dresser. Wayne is a very old maker of fuel pumps and dispensers and now a part of Dover. It seems the compressors were sold off long ago and no longer related to Wayne in any way. I imagine the only people you will find with much information are the parts suppliers.

Here are 2:

http://www.compressorpartsstore.com/product-p/tune_up_kit_6400.htm

http://www.airfloinc.com/item/1859

I cannot personally vouch for either of these firms, but I found them while looking for parts when I was considering buying a Wayne at one time. I ended up with a Kellogg.

 

[redmondjp]

[edit] was going to say that this pump may have been made by another company for Wayne, but on my local Craigslist I just found a Wayne compressor that is probably from the 1930s and it has "Wayne" cast into the pump itself, so maybe they did make their own pumps, at least at one point in history.

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

I didn’t save the link and the item is no longer listed, sorry.


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[sweetk30]

friend of mine has this **** old girl working in his 2 bay auto repair shop every day .

kellogg-american model #321

never there when its running would love to here it some time .

 

[Stuart in MN]

Came across this video on Youtube tonight, a guy restoring a vintage Wayne air compressor:

 

[Movin/on]

I asked about this air compressor a few months ago and getting ready to install it but have a couple of questions. The motor I got with this compressor was 3 phase so that went to the scrapper (pretty sure it was 5HP) and spun at 940 RPM. I've got a 5 HP Baldor at 1720 RPM so I'm planning on installing a smaller pulley to compensate for the speed.

Is the 5HP Baldor sufficient?

A relative from Alaska was here yesterday and said this Lincoln compressor had an unloader and the motor usually runs continuously. Correct? or can I install a pressure switch? (forgot to ask him and he's travelling).

Might have more questions. Oh the compressor and tank were free.

Movin/on

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Single phase 5HP should work fine. I would install a pressure switch as a matter of safety. One can never have too many safety features in the shop.

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

You probably already know,but that is a Quincy 325. The color picture came from the factory and is from a website selling parts. I don’t remember which parts company used the photo. I want to enlarge it and laminate it for my shop. Your photo shows unloaders on both cylinders but there is a lot to know about the various ways to plumb them.


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[cvairwerks]

They can be set up to run in either unloader or start/stop mode. If you use a lot of air, unloader mode is less costly to run, as the motor doesn't shut off, the system causes the compressor to not build any pressure until it's called for.
One of the places I used to work at, had a 25 hp unit that would run either way. Owners were bitching about the electric bills, as we were on demand billing and the compressor would push the demand meter up pretty often. When we had the compressor guys out to do a routine service on it, they showed me how to flip it over to unloader mode. When we had a heavy air usage, I'd flip it to unloader mode and the compressor would not shut down for several hours. That little change dropped our power bill a couple hundred bucks a month year round.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Unloaders are a judgment call. Most small home shops can't effectively utilize them unless air tools or sprayers are used a lot.

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

The unloaders on that Quincy are to open one valve on each cylinder to make the pump easier to spin up, then when has about seven pounds of oil pressure the little valve on the side closes the unloader valves and the machine makes pressure until the shutoff switch to the drive motor turns it off. Setting it up to run continually and open the unloaders at a set pressure so it spins but doesn’t pump requires more complex valving than what I see in your pictures... I believe that you will need a cutoff pressure switch like a normal compressor.
But I’m not sure.

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[diesel_dan]

So I finally finished reading through all 33 pages of this thread and it was worth every minute! Like many others that have posted to the thread: I too was out researching older compressors and continued to get hits back to this forum -- a great place to learn from and seem like a good group of folks, and so I decided to join as well.

My Wife thinks I'm a compressor addict, and well maybe I am ....

Here's a couple of pictures (from the CL ad before I bought it) of my latest (and final?) acquisition. It's a '60s Saylor Beall -- tank tag is scratched up but I think it is a 1969. This unit has the 705 pump and the 3 HP, likely original Doerr, motor -- I have a nice low use 5hp Baldor if I decide to spin it faster, but there is just something about the thumpity thump of 540 rpms that is music to my ears, besides I think I am past the point in my time and needs for higher volume. Just planning on cleaning it up and removing the mag starter (doesn't need it running on 220V) and putting on a switched pressure regulator. 1st up is an oil change and sticking a pressure gauge on it to see what the last owner was running it at. It was bought from a friend of the owner, whos friend of over 25 years was dying. Wasn't run much last 20 years -- it was hooked up and we ran it to cut-off, but only had a tire inflator with stick style gauge to check pressure - it pegged at above 140 at cut out. So I'm hoping I got a good one!

I'll update as I clean it and learn more about it...

Scott

Oops - scratch the pictures -- I don't have a place to host them, thought I could upload them to this site...

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

If you get the Garage Journal app you can load photos directly from your phone, although it may be that you have to have a minimum number of posts first.


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[diesel_dan]

If you get the Garage Journal app you can load photos directly from your phone, although it may be that you have to have a minimum number of posts first.


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Thanks -- my phone is smarter than me, so doubt I'll use the app. Spent a bit of time on it today: had let the oil drain for days and think about a quart and a half, maybe a touch more came out. wanted to check for metal in the crank case so stuck an extendable magnet in and broke off the handle on the 3rd sweep through - no big chunks of metal, but plenty of sludge and some has ferrous material in it. So that seals the deal on removing the side plate (this is one of the early ones with the removable side cover). Maybe a yea/boo thing -- not sure if I want to see what is in there...! Might as well clean the crud out though...

Oooooh, I see where I can attach files -- let me see if I can get some pics in that way... -Scott
Looks like just the ad pics are small enough, so I'll downsize future ones...

 

[Old Faithful]

Oooooh, I see where I can attach files -- let me see if I can get some pics in that way... -Scott
Looks like just the ad pics are small enough, so I'll downsize future ones...

DON'T downsize pictures... Forum software will make the thumbnails and will , IIRC, downsize anything too large. You can also use a picture hosting service that way the picture will appears at the size you upload it at.

In this day and age, with the absolute ton of crud that comes in on every web page (OK, so not as much here), there is just no valid reason to make pictures any smaller than they are, because most of the stuff that is served in your browser is NOT actual content, but rather ads and javascript.

BTW, beautiful machine. If it can be restored to original condition it will make an amazing addition to your garage

 

[Old Faithful]

Oops - scratch the pictures -- I don't have a place to host them, thought I could upload them to this site...

tinypic.com is not bad... Simple and not too aggravating to use like most of them are with all their restrictions and conditions.

 

[Old Faithful]

So I finally finished reading through all 33 pages of this thread and it was worth every minute! Like many others that have posted to the thread: I too was out researching older compressors and continued to get hits back to this forum -- a great place to learn from and seem like a good group of folks, and so I decided to join as well.

My Wife thinks I'm a compressor addict, and well maybe I am ....

No, if you're a Diesel Freak (I am too), that's NORMAL . Are you a Diesel Landcruiser Afficionado by any chance? Your nickname is familiar

Here's a couple of pictures (from the CL ad before I bought it) of my latest (and final?) acquisition. It's a '60s Saylor Beall -- tank tag is scratched up but I think it is a 1969. This unit has the 705 pump and the 3 HP, likely original Doerr, motor -- I have a nice low use 5hp Baldor if I decide to spin it faster, but there is just something about the thumpity thump of 540 rpms that is music to my ears, besides I think I am past the point in my time and needs for higher volume.

Every pump has a minimum and maximum speed - if it's cast iron it probably won't like going above 800RPM or so from its size, it's got to do with inertia, which is dependent on component size and weight. Going from 3 to 5HP with a pulley diameter increase is not a huge RPM bump but I would definitely look it up first to be sure.

Just planning on cleaning it up and removing the mag starter (doesn't need it running on 220V) and putting on a switched pressure regulator. 1st up is an oil change and sticking a pressure gauge on it to see what the last owner was running it at. It was bought from a friend of the owner, whos friend of over 25 years was dying. Wasn't run much last 20 years -- it was hooked up and we ran it to cut-off, but only had a tire inflator with stick style gauge to check pressure - it pegged at above 140 at cut out. So I'm hoping I got a good one!

Make sure to inspect the tank first because corrosion is the biggest concern - I use an inspection camera. Then for testing fill the tank with water and pressurize it to double the operating pressure. If it leaks, you'll have to discard the tank, but at least it won't explode in your face like it would if it was full or air.

 

[diesel_dan]

Old Faithful: Thanks for the tips -- I think I will try just uploading another few large picts at the end of this post and see what happens.

So from my research on this (or maybe just the newer?) 705 Saylor-Beall pump, it was fitted with either a 3 hp motor and run at 540 RPM, or a 5 hp motor and run at 845 RPM. I didn't see many out there with the flat round cover with cylindrical crank-end support -- most are the more conical style crank end pieces. For now I plan to run it with the 3 hp Doerr, it looks like it came with it for one, and I like the speed it spins it at. Who knows how long something like this will last at 540 RPM!

I do have a couple of questions: there is a copper line that runs from the bottom of that cylindrical crank-end support to below the oil level line back into the crank case. Is this a drain line, or does it supply oil to the back side of the main bearing (via pressure pulse)? Kind of cool if it is the latter...

Next Q is on the tank: I notice a film of oil all around the round bottom end. While there is some rust in the drain elbow, it was completely dry and hooked up to an extended drain line (I'll be replacing that). Was wondering if the oil film indicates anything about tank health (or lack of)?

Seller had not added any oil and it obviously hadn't been changed for some time, so my expectation is the top end should be tight. It was being run with an oversized paper filter -- I think this unit was once loved by someone, probably actual previous owner...

Hopefully more picts below... Thanks, Scott

P.S.: No on the diesel_dan name: named my first diesel truck diesel_dan, but own and have owned many diesels, mostly equipment just a few trucks...

 

[diesel_dan]

So I've kept reading and searching and now realize the crankshaft support piece I've been referring to is the centrifugal unloader.

So hoping someone still reading this thread can help: WHAT does the copper tubing line from the bottom of the Centrifugal Unloader, plumbed to the crankcase do?

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

A centrifugal unloader on the crankshaft is supposed to use oil pressure to open the valves so the pump is easier to start turning for the motor. Once the pump reaches the set speed the valves work normally. I’m guessing you already know all that. A line from the unloader to the crankcase Would maybe drain the oil back .
Since the unloader works off of oil pressure when it opens, the bleed side vents to the crankcase. Guessing here, hope I’m helping...got any more pictures?, nice machine.

Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile appgot any more pictures?

 

[diesel_dan]

A centrifugal unloader on the crankshaft is supposed to use oil pressure to open the valves so the pump is easier to start turning for the motor. Once the pump reaches the set speed the valves work normally. I’m guessing you already know all that. A line from the unloader to the crankcase Would maybe drain the oil back .
Since the unloader works off of oil pressure when it opens, the bleed side vents to the crankcase. Guessing here, hope I’m helping...got any more pictures?, nice machine.

Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile appgot any more pictures?

No, I really am learning here - my 1st compressor with a centrifugal unloader. I assume later versions had a conical shaped cover, which allowed natural flow of oil back to the crank-case. Still doing lots of reading, some about cleaning it up, but I'd really like to clean the crud out of the case, fill it with oil and see how it pumps up on the original pressure switch (like what was cut-in and out pressure, etc.). The way it was set-up where I bought it, they had bypassed the mag starter and I think just threw a breaker to get it going. I'm thinking of doing something similar, but just run it off a switched pressure switch... Couple picts of the drain line:
Thanks for the support,
Scott

 

[MacMcMacmac]

That is a simple centrifugal unloader that has a flyweight mechanism like an old flyball governor on a steam engine. It just opens and closes a bleed valve to relieve pressure before the check valve so the compressor won't start under load. It will not allow continuous operation and does not use oil pressure to unload the compressor. It looks like this is a splash lube pump anyway, so the is no oil pressure to operate anything. Keep the mag starter or you will be replacing pressure switches regularly.

 

[Movin/on]

My post on Dec 8 has a picture of the top of an oil actuated unloader. Stillgottimefor1 posted a diagram of a Quincy 25 a day or so later. How do I replumb the oil lines to bypass the unloader function?
2nd. My Rand 4000 5hp compressor seems to have burned up the pressure control switch. Looking online for a replacement I get one for approx. $120. I see alternatives for the $50 range but they seem to be only good for 25 amps and don't reference 5HP. My compressors the Lincoln and the Rand will be in tandem with a 40 amp breaker for each. I'll install 2 control switches so the Rand will be a backup and kick in at 75# and off at 160# the Lincoln will be the primary at 90 and 175.
Thanks for assistance
Movin/on

 

[MacMcMacmac]

My post on Dec 8 has a picture of the top of am oil actuated unloader. Stillgottimefor1 posted a diagram of a Quincy 325 a day or so later. How do I replumb the oil lines to bypass the unloader function?
2nd. My Rand 4000 5hp compressor seems to have burned up the pressure control switch. Looking online for a replacement I get one for approx. $120. I see alternatives for the $50 range but they seem to be only good for 25 amps and don't reference 5HP. My compressors the Lincoln and the Rand will be in tandem with a 40 amp breaker for each. I'll install 2 control switches so the Rand will be a backup and kick in at 75# and off at 160# the Lincoln will be the primary at 90 and 175.
Thanks for assistance
Movin/on

You don't replumb anything. Just run an air line from the tank to the bottom port on the hydraulic unloader valve on the side of the crankcase and you're done. To use this pump in constant run mode you would need an air operated pilot valve as a secondary source of control air teed into the line going to the head unloaders that could be isolated with a valve to bring it on or offline.

5hp needs a mag starter or your pressure switches will continue to weld themselves together.

 

[diesel_dan]

Have spent a couple hours per day the last few days on the S-B 705 and got a few things cleaned plus some really good news... The case breather was all clogged - not quite sure if this thing has working parts inside, as I can see in one of the holes what looks to be coils of a spring. This breather is like a big bolt but in the head of the bolt are 4 holes and it looks like with the right tool you could unscrew the center section with the 4 holes, from the base hollow "bolt" piece (center section is set into head). Well it allows airflow in either direction, so if it is supposed to have a check valve in it, it no longer works...

Pulled inspection plate off and found a surprisingly clean crankcase! Some crud on the bottom, splatters of sludge on the walls, but crank end bearings are super clean, still see cross-hatch marks on both cylinders and only minor scratch marks (very light) on LP cylinder bore. Minor rust on case bottom that I cleaned just loose parts off and left the rest alone. Vacuumed out case and buttoned it up with old gasket (hope it holds). 2 qts of fresh ND SAE 30 Weight went in

Looking at the motor control, which I have no clue about, it appears someone just jumpered around the start/stop switch (probably stopped working). I'm going to leave it in for now, since it all worked before, and wire up a temporary plug to the Lines in. If I can get some decent picts of this I'll post them up so maybe one of you can tell me what's going on...

Today I'm putting the new air filter on and doing a little temporary plumbing and then turn this bad boy on! Going to time the fill to cut-off and then cut-in to cut-off, and am interested what pressure range the PO had it running at...

Maybe some pictures and another update later - fingers crossed!
Scott

 

[Movin/on]

OK checked and my 5HP Rand 4000 has a mag. pressure switch Condor SK3 The Marathon motor has a RPM rating of 3510 on the tag. It is pretty noisy. Guess I'm going to spend $120 for another new mag switch. This one only lasted 10 years.
Going to start putting the Lincoln/Quincy together today once I can get someone to help me lift it onto the tank. Otherwise a cherry picker.

Movin/on

 

[diesel_dan]

Well the Forum S/W just deleted a huge update I had written So here is a short one:

Compressor is FABULOUS!!! Pumped up to 170 PSIG in 10:52 so is at or above its NEW rating for CFM. Even better is the recovery from 140 to 170 calc'd out to about 15 CFM (1 minute 40 secs)

I've set the pressure switch down to 110 to 140, don't need to work it any harder than that... More cleaning to do, permanent plumbing, new belts, etc. etc.... oh yeah: 24 hour pressure held within 5 pounds, and I think that is just temperature drop... Also: didn't replace inspection plate gasket and NO leaks!

I'm one Happy camper! Some pics below -- if someone can tell what is going on with Mag Starter - looks like they jumpered around the on/off switch???

That's all for now...

Scott

 

[N_Jay]

if someone can tell what is going on with Mag Starter - looks like they jumpered around the on/off switch???

That's all for now...

Scott

Trace out the wiring. Don't guess.

 

[nevadaTType]

Here is a compressor that I pulled out of a field of old iron stuff
I have no idea what brand it is or how old but the drive wheel screams old to me



Hi Don,

I know this is a very delayed answer to your question but the pump is a Jacuzzi Bros. for sure (331 single stage) and probably the whole compressor is too.

There's a Jacuzzi thread on the site that has useful pictures and a very thoughtful GJ member posted 3 pages from a Jacuzzi brochure where you'll see the distinctive pump flywheel.

Hope this helps!

Matt Wright

 

[Jamie in wv]

I just found this close to me on eBay I pick it up Thursday morning can't wait to get it home and clean it up, been in his family since new, said his grandfather left it to him in 1977

 

[Old Faithful]

Old Faithful: Thanks for the tips -- I think I will try just uploading another few large picts at the end of this post and see what happens.
[...]
Hopefully more picts below... Thanks, Scott

P.S.: No on the diesel_dan name: named my first diesel truck diesel_dan, but own and have owned many diesels, mostly equipment just a few trucks...

REALLY NICE MACHINE!!! Sorry I've been sick and after getting back on my feet had to get back to work again... Busier for me than usual for this part of year... I'll check your posts and see if I can add anything that hasn't been answered by someone else yet when things calm down possibly this week end.

As an aside I just got yet another old Sears compressor just like my other ones (dual cylinder single stage CH pump) for free because the tank was finished and the pump leaks oil in use. I have another pump in parts (bad crankshaft bearing) so hopefully I'll be able to make a good pump out of the two. The plan is to get this and my other two machines together for a combined 20CFM output hopefully sufficient for sandblasting, that will require a staggered starting scheme based on pressure and air demand and some custom plumbing and separately connectable exterior air tanks, but should be a nice project for when I 'officially' retire in a couple of years

 

[Old Faithful]

I just found this close to me on eBay I pick it up Thursday morning can't wait to get it home and clean it up, been in his family since new, said his grandfather left it to him in 1977

Great looking machine! I doubt the tank is any good anymore because of its advanced age (by the style of the machine I'd guess probably from the late 40s or early 50s), but that CH pump is gorgeous and obviously of high quality from the shape of the head

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I just found this close to me on eBay I pick it up Thursday morning can't wait to get it home and clean it up, been in his family since new, said his grandfather left it to him in 1977

Pretty sure that's a Saylor Beall.

 

[Dogbone]

I'm working on an old Fero from back in the late 30s early 40s. Trying to determine how worn out it is now.

It has a great look and was probably a hoss back in the day. Likely began its life at a Gulf station.

 

[Dogbone]

Here's a photo of my Fero

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[diesel_dan]

Dogbone: That is one neat compressor! So I take it the oil was drained before you moved it, or was the case empty when you found it? That ended up being a problem on one I brought home: owner had drained the case and left it outside, so Pump would take major $s to repair since bottom end is rusty and suspect.

Does the pump turn by hand and make good noises? The riveted tank is way cool, hope it checks out and you can keep it...

Nice Machine!

Scott

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

Sure want to see that restored. I still haven’t been able to qet to my Quincy 340. (Shame)...


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[Dogbone]

Dogbone: That is one neat compressor! So I take it the oil was drained before you moved it, or was the case empty when you found it? That ended up being a problem on one I brought home: owner had drained the case and left it outside, so Pump would take major $s to repair since bottom end is rusty and suspect.

Does the pump turn by hand and make good noises? The riveted tank is way cool, hope it checks out and you can keep it...

Nice Machine!

Scott

I drained it before we tipped it over. There actually was not much in it, though some. The crankshaft has roller bearings.

I've already had it up to 125psi. It took about 25 minutes to get there so it's got some wear or a leaky set of valves or something. I have some original sales literature and it's supposed to do 140 psi in 15 minutes. Not sure if that's hype or not. It has a really great sound. It's supposed to run at 600 rpm, but when I checked it I was only getting 575. That was with one original belt. It has grooves for three belts but only had two and one self destructed so it was only getting traction with one toward the end of the pump test.

 

[diesel_dan]

I drained it before we tipped it over. There actually was not much in it, though some. The crankshaft has roller bearings.

I've already had it up to 125psi. It took about 25 minutes to get there so it's got some wear or a leaky set of valves or something. I have some original sales literature and it's supposed to do 140 psi in 15 minutes. Not sure if that's hype or not. It has a really great sound. It's supposed to run at 600 rpm, but when I checked it I was only getting 575. That was with one original belt. It has grooves for three belts but only had two and one self destructed so it was only getting traction with one toward the end of the pump test.

That dude looks like it would put out more than the original specs call for! Yeah, the one that is beyond what I want to spend is a Curtis E-57, it has roller bearings too - rusty ones... Good news is I only paid $50 for it and it has a good tank and 5HP Baldor motor...

Have you removed the inspection plate and taken a good look inside yet? I wasn't comfortable with my Saylor beall until I had done that and cleaned it well. Need to do belts on mine too as one is pretty much toast...

Best of luck with it!
Scott

 

[Dogbone]

That dude looks like it would put out more than the original specs call for! Yeah, the one that is beyond what I want to spend is a Curtis E-57, it has roller bearings too - rusty ones... Good news is I only paid $50 for it and it has a good tank and 5HP Baldor motor...

Have you removed the inspection plate and taken a good look inside yet? I wasn't comfortable with my Saylor beall until I had done that and cleaned it well. Need to do belts on mine too as one is pretty much toast...

Best of luck with it!
Scott

Going to inspect it this weekend. I drained some water and it was clear enough to drink which was surprising.

I'm a little concerned about trying to remove one of the screw in bungs. Doubt they have been moved 70+ years. I'm hoping I can run my little inspection camera down from the top when I pull the pressure switch off.

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