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Chipm

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Joined
Mar 10, 2020
Messages
428
Location
Georgia
But also don't rebuild calipers because new ones are fairly cheap usually.
Where are you getting them? All the ones I buy rust completely in under a year, even if they claim an anti-rust coating. This tool reminded me that I am going to switch back to rebuilding them.
 

Firebrick43

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Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
13,992
Location
West central Indiana
This a new one for me. Why would you use this instead of just running a tap/die over the threads?
To add to what others have stated, you can carry three of them and cover nearly every SAE and metric thread in your carry box.

An equivalent set of taps and dies will fill a Lista cabinet.

They are also great for non standard threads.

Have a machine tool spindle that was single point cut threads 4-1/2 inches in diameter and 20 TPI, no problem.

A good addition for dinged threads is 15 micron diamond lapping paste. I have seen tool makers struggle a whole shift to straighten threads that some dolt messed up and with a thread file and some diamond lapping paste fix it in 30-45 min. After getting it close with file put some paste on the threads right before the offending damage and advance the nut on by hand only till it stops back up a 1/4 turn and repeat. As it cuts the damage out it will advans a 1/16 of a turn further each time until the damage is lapped off. Clean very well with brake cleaner to remove all traces
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
759
Location
Michigan
A lot of guys on here may know what thread files are, but I haven't met many people who know what they are ...

Screenshot_20250908-151011.png
Interesting to me to see the replies on this with others making effective use of rethreader files. I have had these for years as part of a rethreader set and I never was able to make effective use of them. Maybe I was just trying wrong or lacking patience. It helps to know the context others find them useful. I will consider trying again if/when the relevant occasions come up. I can see the logic of the comments on context of applicability.
 

Ohio Andy

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Joined
Jul 31, 2024
Messages
2,248
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Interesting to me to see the replies on this with others making effective use of rethreader files. I have had these for years as part of a rethreader set and I never was able to make effective use of them. Maybe I was just trying wrong or lacking patience. It helps to know the context others find them useful. I will consider trying again if/when the relevant occasions come up. I can see the logic of the comments on context of applicability.
When I have damaged threads, the first thing I reach for is not a file and usually the standard rethreader will do what I need. But when I needed the file, it was the best (and maybe only) tool for the job. Before I had my rethread kit, I used my standard taps and dies. These days I use my rethread kit more often than my taps and dies. Before I had my thread files, I might use a triangular file, but that about removing metal and not pushing the threads back where they need to be, so really best suited to fixing a thread or two damaged near the tip say after cutting a bolt shorter.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
759
Location
Michigan
When I have damaged threads, the first thing I reach for is not a file and usually the standard rethreader will do what I need. But when I needed the file, it was the best (and maybe only) tool for the job. Before I had my rethread kit, I used my standard taps and dies. These days I use my rethread kit more often than my taps and dies. Before I had my thread files, I might use a triangular file, but that about removing metal and not pushing the threads back where they need to be, so really best suited to fixing a thread or two damaged near the tip say after cutting a bolt shorter.
Agree. Rethreading taps and dies are great. Regular taps and dies are too easy to start wrong and can exacerbate problems. I can see where the file might help when used correctly in the start portion of a thread to get things going correctly.

As a tangential comment: I also find Time-Sert inserts a great (but expensive) way to repair significant thread damages. They really work well and when used in Aluminum blocks for smaller diameter bolts often result in a stronger than original repair. They work much better and more reliably than heli-coil type kits.

Obviously it is best to avoid these problems to the extent possible. But since moving from Cali to Michigan I find it is inevitable that I have to do frequent rusty thread repairs. I liberally use anti-seize lubricants in everything I take apart and that helps a lot on repetitive stuff, but it does not address the original iterations.
 

WWheeler

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Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
That's pretty neat. I saw on amazon there is one made for two grease guns but it's a chinese version. I might have to pick up a couple of these.
PitPosse also has a made in USA model for two grease guns

 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,670
Location
Far NE Oregon
I've had at least one occasion where there was a problem at the start of the threads and I was able to use the files but not the rethreaders

I've had threads that were suitably a problem that I couldn't really use the rethreader until after I had used the files
I usually use a flapdisk on an angle grinder for that problem. Just chamfer the end 'til you're past the binged threads.
 

Vinny

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Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Messages
625
Location
Simi Valley, CA
I guess I don't deal with damaged fasteners much (I just replace them), so learning a lot here.
I see folks mentioning rethreaders. Are these different to just "normal" taps and dies?
 

Ohio Andy

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Joined
Jul 31, 2024
Messages
2,248
Location
Columbus, Ohio
I guess I don't deal with damaged fasteners much (I just replace them), so learning a lot here.
I see folks mentioning rethreaders. Are these different to just "normal" taps and dies?
On some old things they have stuff that is no longer made with the same quality. As an example, all modern wing nuts I have found new are flimsy cheap formed metal. And generally smaller (when compared to the ones on equipment made back in the 1930s). There's also a bolt that has some kind of wing head that are tricky to find these days but I see them on some old hand tools.

If it is just a bolt, yeah I replace it if I have one. If I don't, I might repair it and then make a note to get a replacement.

Even with rethreaders, I go slow and easy.
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,670
Location
Far NE Oregon
On some old things they have stuff that is no longer made with the same quality. As an example, all modern wing nuts I have found new are flimsy cheap formed metal. And generally smaller (when compared to the ones on equipment made back in the 1930s). There's also a bolt that has some kind of wing head that are tricky to find these days but I see them on some old hand tools.

If it is just a bolt, yeah I replace it if I have one. If I don't, I might repair it and then make a note to get a replacement.

Even with rethreaders, I go slow and easy.
All my local hardware stores--ACE, Do It Again, etc, carry real live wing nuts forged from solid steel.
 
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Ohio Andy

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Jul 31, 2024
Messages
2,248
Location
Columbus, Ohio
All my local hardware stores--ACE, Do It Again, etc, carry real live wing nuts forged from solid steel.
Yeah, but even those cast ones at Ace are not even almost the same. The one on the left is original. The one on the right is what they sell at Ace for cast these days
 

Ohio Andy

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Joined
Jul 31, 2024
Messages
2,248
Location
Columbus, Ohio
Yeah, but even those cast ones at Ace are not even almost the same. The one on the left is original. The one on the right is what they sell at Ace for cast these days

1000004691.jpg

Had trouble uploading the image. Had to post again to do it and noticed the one on the left is Mammoth compared to the one on the right. Same threads. Same size but not even close.

Now I will see if it'll let me upload the hand vice that this goes with

1000004692.jpg
 

redragoon

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Joined
Jun 12, 2018
Messages
296
Location
Greenville SC
So I bought this one sale a few years ago for $20-30. Keep it inside with my "house" tool kit.
Lexivon 2 in 1 laser tape measure. 16' tape measure with 130' laser measurement.
Tape measure body is added to the laser reading so you place it against a wall or in a corner and it will give true measurement.

It has become invaluable for checking space/distances in rooms for furniture.
Check item with tape measure then shoot laser between walls to check.
Tape does not have the best "standout" to reach far away, but that's when I switch to laser.
I've found it highly accurate to 1/16" readings and it gives measurements in fractions.
Screen displays 1 or 2 previous readings.

81B7RNgGOBL._AC_SX466_.jpg

www.amazon.com/LEXIVON-Distance
 

bonneyman

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Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
8,759
Location
Desert SW
Two of the more useful weird tools I've found.

Electricians helper. Receptacle holder to safely swap out live wall plugs.
Palm sized pressure gun to clean drain lines using disposable CO2 cartridge. Super portable.
 

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cdoublejj

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Joined
Apr 11, 2022
Messages
167
Location
MO
I might be the only one that didn't know this was a thing but its super nice. After getting one I bought some for my equipment maintenance guys at work and they all bought them for their own shops. They are around $30.


greasy_.jpg
shame it isn't already magnetic https://www.harborfreight.com/66mm-round-magnet-96650.html
 

cody1325

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Joined
Apr 17, 2024
Messages
1,075
Location
Southwest Virginia
Articulating clip tool.
Didn't know there was such an animal until I was aimlessly poking around Matco's website.
Love this thing!

Screenshot 2025-09-10 at 12.59.01 PM.png

Had I bought one of those, I could've installed the Weathertech mudflaps on the car. Space was so tight with some of the clips (also, I was using the same small Stanley prybar I had for years--not the correct tool...). I ended up taking it to a relative's shop. He ended up having to put it on a lift and take the rear wheels off. So, I kind of wonder if even that would've worked...

That being said, my next main "pry tool" I need to buy is a body clip puller.
 

WWheeler

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Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
Had I bought one of those, I could've installed the Weathertech mudflaps on the car. Space was so tight with some of the clips (also, I was using the same small Stanley prybar I had for years--not the correct tool...). I ended up taking it to a relative's shop. He ended up having to put it on a lift and take the rear wheels off. So, I kind of wonder if even that would've worked...

That being said, my next main "pry tool" I need to buy is a body clip puller.
You may also want to consider the SK Body Clip tool. It's a lot more stout than the Matcos are, basically an actual pry bar, that I find myself using for a lot more than just body clips. I really like the Matcos too, as I bought them when the SK tool had been unobtanium for a long time, but now it can be had at a few places. I got mine from Zoro.

SK Tools USA Body Clip and Rivet Removal Set (6642).jpg
 

engineer2

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
11,795
Location
Chicago burbs
Most of these you'll recognize.
Dawn Industries Kwik Cut is quite handy to make square tubing/hose cuts. (Mine is an old model)
KD No. 465 shock/strut tool is very useful, even on some modern vehicles.
Crescent adjustable wrench with thin jaws is useful for bicycle hubs.

IMG_7751.jpg
 

RoninB4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
3,488
Location
Under My House
I have had these for years as part of a rethreader set and I never was able to make effective use of them. Maybe I was just trying wrong or lacking patience.
-It's also possible that the thread file is just dulled, especially if you've had them for years. Thread files are a cutting tools and they can, like a regular file, become dull with use. If they've ever been used on threads that were heat treated steel then they'll just "skate" across the surface. I always try to feel if the thread file will "bite" into the material or not before further use. Mine are Blue Point and I'm selective about using them. An inexpensive brand of thread file may not even work well when new, some brands are more expensive for a reason.
 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
759
Location
Michigan
-It's also possible that the thread file is just dulled, especially if you've had them for years. Thread files are a cutting tools and they can, like a regular file, become dull with use. If they've ever been used on threads that were heat treated steel then they'll just "skate" across the surface. I always try to feel if the thread file will "bite" into the material or not before further use. Mine are Blue Point and I'm selective about using them. An inexpensive brand of thread file may not even work well when new, some brands are more expensive for a reason.
In my case I have to confess it was likely from ineptitude and being impatient. They were new condition (stored well with no rust etc).

I think the Blue Point set you have is likely the same as what I have (Craftsman). Most of these are rebrands from the same USA manufacturer. So all of these files should be pretty much the same quality. But there may now be Chinese knock-offs of rethread kits with possibly poorer quality. Cutting tools certainly need better materials and fabrication to be most effective. Harbor Freight type tap and die sets are generally wise to avoid since they will just cause more trouble with failures. The rethread taps and dies I have all have been used a lot and have held up remarkably well. The rethreading applications are likely lower stress than cutting new threads.

I will try the files again more carefully the next time a potential use come up within the context of applicability. It is often useful seeing how other people regard certain tools in this forum. I have found a couple of times I was using things dumbly from reading the threads. I do a lot of work alone so that can happen! Sometimes, targeted you-tube videos made by someone who really knows what they are doing vs some hack can prove quite helpful for good ideas on improved approaches.
 

bigredcornhead

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
432
I bought one of these and use it in my drill press frequently when trying to clean up oddly shaped pieces. I dont have a lathe to chuck up dowels etc so i find this help. Used it once on my battery power drill at slow speed did a fair job.

 

lund

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
759
Location
Michigan
I guess I don't deal with damaged fasteners much (I just replace them), so learning a lot here.
I see folks mentioning rethreaders. Are these different to just "normal" taps and dies?
Yes. Rethread sets are much better than tap and dies to clean up threads that have a bit of damage or corrosion. As other say, they push the metal back to where it should be (reform) vs cutting. You can quickly save a lot of lightly damaged fasteners and save a lot of fastener orders. They are also easier to start than conventional taps and dies. Sets are pretty cheap and work well. Plus since they are not doing a lot of cutting, they tend to last much longer than tap and dies. I strongly recommend getting a rethread set if you do a lot of car work in the rust belt or do a lot of old equipment restoration. It is a good idea to also use anti-seize lubrication on rust belt car component reassemblies also. That helps tremendously in any future work, but anti-seize also has a nasty tendency to get all over everything while working (silver smudges on everything you touch!). I am pretty much resigned to all clothing getting slimed when doing any car work though.

I probably use rethread kits 20x more than tap and dies. After you start using them you will never go back to tap and dies to clean up threads. Tap and dies are more expensive, much more of a pain to properly start properly, and take much longer to use with more potential for screw ups.
 

KnurledNut

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
8,096
Location
n/a
I use a fairly unknown tool called a Krikit belt tension gauge on some machinery V-belts I service.
It can be used on all kinds of belts though.
Here's a Gates rep using one on a bicycle drive belt.
I have never used the phone app he mentions, but it detects belt frequency to determine tension.
615tDsulVlL._AC_.jpg
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,670
Location
Far NE Oregon
I use a fairly unknown tool called a Krikit belt tension gauge on some machinery V-belts I service.
It can be used on all kinds of belts though.
Here's a Gates rep using one on a bicycle drive belt.
I have never used the phone app he mentions, but it detects belt frequency to determine tension.
615tDsulVlL._AC_.jpg
I have a plunger-type tension tester. It's a little more accurate than the tried and true "push on with your finger" deflection test.
 

MiteyF

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2022
Messages
135
This a new one for me. Why would you use this instead of just running a tap/die over the threads?

Good luck finding a die for this

20231031172202-1904dcfb-me.jpg

There are a LOT of threads that dies simply don't exist for. I used the hell out of my thread files as a rotating equipment machinist, repairing old shafts. Sometimes I was cutting threads that were something wild like 8"-12tpi
 

Beerhippie

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,670
Location
Far NE Oregon
This is a pretty minor, usually jobsite-built tool:

54782388091_e995845a3b_o.jpg

I was taught they're called "painter's points". They allow you to paint both sides of something without waiting for the first side to fully dry. As the object rests on the points of the screws, there is very little damage to the paint--usually not visible unless you know where to look.

I used them yesterday for painting a signboard. I didn't want to wait half a day between the two sides.
 
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