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Hey I have a Hoover in the back room of my shop as well. Okay it is not really a Hoover, I just stuck a label on it. It is part of my dust collection system.

A word of caution with contact cement. It is unforgiving. Once you drop that sheet metal down, you can't adjust it. When you put formica down a little trick that is used is to put a bunch of dowels on the bench top and then slowly role them out as the formica is positioned and pressed in...

??????????? I solder copper everyday. For a beginner, Mapp gas is the way to go, it produces a much hotter flame. Too cool a flame or not allowing the flame to get the joint hot enough is the primary cause of bad joints for the beginner. Yes, you are supposed to scuff (with emery cloth or a...

I recommend you go with copper. Buy a cheap torch and a tank of Mapp gas (yellow). Scuff the joints ( male and female), use a tinning flux and you'll be soldering like a pro.

If the shelves are secured to the wall you may not need those diagonals. If it turns out to be flimsy then you will need to do something. You would actually find greater strength by gluing and nailing say 12 or 15 inch plywood triangles under the corners of each shelf.

^This +2 or a pin hole in the bottom of the tank due to rust... I hope not the latter!

You guys believe what ever you want. But adding 1 1/2 inches to the bottom of an existing 2x10 joist and expecting it to yield grater strength than sistering another 2x10 are smoking the wacky weed! As I stated, with the joist being under load, adding a 2x4 lying on it's side to the bottom with...

I was addressing the Original Post which stated that a 2 x joist can be significantly improved by simply adding a 2x4 to the bottom. I strongly disagree that it will anything at all other than eliminate an inch and a half of head room. Composite I-beams are a totally different item, like...

First I will state that I am not an engineer. Second I will say that putting a bottom and/or a top cord on a 2x10 joist will yield a negligible improvement in the structural integrity of the joist. You will see measurable lateral (sideways) improvement and that is about it. However if one...

I would take the faucet to a plumbing supply house and just get a new one. If you really want to reuse the faucet maybe you can find an all-thread type pipe (probably 1/2") and nuts to attach it to the sink. I would get new washers and seats as well. The drain looks to be a total loss though...

Yea, duh! I would have caught that error after the first sheet was cut! :thumbup:

c = p(2b*h)/24 Here ya go. you forgot the "p" which is the number of persons working on the job.

The word "Ferrari" is spelled wrong or it's upside down? ...and that drywall wicking moisture thing!

I would go with the 10 and 12's first row would be 10'-12' next row 5'-12'-5' then repeat...

+2 on that. I use mine almost daily

The stress point in question is where the new roof rafter meets the existing truss. Beyond the sidewall there is no issue assuming the load bearing wall is built to acceptable standards. All the weight, even if it is nominal considering the cantilever effect, between the side wall and truss is...

Yes and no. Compressing r-19 into a 2x4 cavity will yield a higher than r-13 r-value BUT less than an r-19 value. Compressing insulation and r-value are related to each other on a geometric bell curve. As you begin to compress the fiberglass your r-value per inch starts to increase but once...

Unfortunately even bczygan's solution would have put too much stress on my trusses. The weight of the short span of rafter and all the roofing product above it lying on that truss (4' o.c.) will deflect that weight down onto the ceiling joist below and deform it. Once you add a snow load to it...

Hey thanks! I am **** with it. My wife wishes I could be the same in the house but it is not my domain! :bounce:

Yea, it's been slow lately on and off. Must be lots of traffic at certain times...