Search results

HOAs are gonna HOA but, generally speaking, those in townhome/condominium communities tend to be even more stringent than those with single-family detached housing. Just kind of the nature of the beast. You're into a whole different realm of liability when it comes to shared structure and...

Despite the exorbitant construction costs in the OP's area, I still think that $500K bid was a "I don't want to do it" number. This is a garage: 4 walls, a couple of doors and a window or two at most. There is no flooring, interior walls or fancy finish carpentry involved. That is a flat-out...

Agreed. That foil is going to do nothing in this application. My first thought when reading 'townhouse' is that this conversion breaks a bunch of rules for your HOA. Good luck.

They are all made for the bar to connect to either side as far as I have seen. It would not make any sense for them to manufacture left and right hand versions.

If you're in an area where a 3500sg ft home is $2MIL, you might be screwed. I see a lot of these expensive areas where older folks just kind of get priced right out of the market they've lived in for 50 years. They own a house and some land but they can't afford to do any improvements or...

Get another quote. You got the "We don't want to do it" quote. They quoted you a ridiculous price to see if you'd do it. They don't want to do it at fair market but for $500/sq.ft, they'll find the time. $625K with a bathroom!? Are you telling me that a new construction single-family home...

Middle. Parking lifts go to the sides whereas working lifts go in the middle. I might even consider downsizing those doors a bit. 8' door is real big for lawn equipment (but I see the virtue of sizing it that way to allow a car to be put there in the future) but the single 10' doors are...

Nice barn. I don't think you have a chance in hell of parking multiple cars on that floor much less stacked on a lift but what do I know? Anyone with enough money to buy that has enough money to either bolster the structure to make it work or fix it when the floor caves in. :ROFLMAO: All I can...

Expectation management....nothing you do is going to preserve anything for 'decades'. Coatings wear off. Sounds like you'd be a good candidate for a densifier followed by an sealant topcoat that can be applied by a pump sprayer. Still expect to renew the sealant every 3-5 years depending on...

First and foremost, determine what kind of framing is up there. I've seen way too many well-meaning husbands (led down the garden path of a demanding spouse that did some Pinterest 'research') put up all manner of racks holding hundreds of pounds of junk that end up causing sagging of the...

Given your intended uses and your restrictions, I'd be leaning toward still using the rectangle with the two dailies pulled in the 'front' and the project side entry with the lift centered under the ridge so you get max clearance given that you seem to work on larger 4 x4 type of stuff. This...

We still need to know which way the ridge of the roof is going to go.

I'd prefer the rectangle. I keep everything on casters, so this would give more flexibility on where to keep boxes and benches and they could be moved more easily. The offset design really cuts off the space with that bathroom door as a choke point. I feel like the offset is better in...

Look at it this way: let's say you can wait this out and prices do come down. How low do you think they are going to drop? If it's 10%, it will net you $15K to wait a couple of years. That kind of savings would not be worth the time and aggravation of having to travel to get to my shop, even...

Zeke, I think we are saying the same thing. I didn't word it very well. I meant that the metal panels of the door should be just ever so slightly wider than the opening. Mine are about 3/4" on each side. It looks like the OP has a door that is not quite as wide as his opening.

The metal panels should ideally sit inside the framing. Take my weather stripping away and I have a 1/8" to 1/4" gap all around. This is showing what loos like an inch and a half gap. Not great...

That's the second way the big box stores get you over a barrel. Any reputable overhead door company will not charge you a penny before they complete the work. Unless it is a true custom door made to order, they might charge you half.

You did get lucky indeed!

My new system for figuring out the pice of things goes like this: I determine what I think sounds about right. Then I double that number. Seems to work pretty well.

A proper tech can get that sealed up but ideally the door should be about 6" wider. That said, it sounds like you got an inexperienced tech. I'd call the install company and politely request that a different installer come out. The bigger lesson here (since this is your first house) is that...