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My HF heat gun gave out before I did. Got one panel done, and heat gun is basically a bulky handwarmer at this point. Heat gun recommendations? Maybe the Wagner Furno 500? This job would be the extreme use case for me. My HF heat gun lasted ~10 years because most of my usage is short duration...

I scraped one door with 5-in-1 tool and carbide scraper (just what I had, not the one Stelzer just recommended in post above). Before and after on one section: To @Fav Onefour's point, this paint is pretty hard and it's certainly harder than the bare wood. So I think pressure washing will...

What do you guys think about pressure washing? Someone (offline) suggested that, and I do have access to a pressure washer. My guess is that pressure washing won't take nearly as much of the loose paint off as scraping and wirebrushing will, and will only add a delay as I wait for the doors to...

Not a concern. I'd be wearing a respirator, and paint chips collected, and any sanding would be done with attached shop vac with HEPA filter, regardless.

What did you use the heat gun for? Good idea - maybe I can use oscillating multitool to cut a little bit off the broken piece, then screw it down - the other side of the door panel has similar wood trimming, so drill a thru hole on the front side and screw that piece that's sticking out into...

I'm going to paint these wood garage doors with an airless sprayer. I had some questions about prep, but first, some pics of what I'm dealing with. I'm thinking first step is remove all the gasketing. This includes the bottom rubber, as well as the trim holding the side and top gaskets...

Good point. I did raise/lower the door manually a few times, and noticed that even raised up (so no cable tension), the high side is still higher, so I guess it's not the cable. Maybe 1/4-3/8" isn't enough to worry about and I should let new bottom rubber seal close the gap.

I have old wood garage doors (7ft tall, 8ft wide) on extension springs and chain drive openers. One of the doors had come out of level by quite a bit and made a racket and bounced around going up and down. When one side was touching the ground, the other side had a 3/4" gap. I replaced the old...

Can't recall the last time I used a crescent wrench on a vehicle. And for larger fasteners, you're dealing with higher torque. Not something I'd use a crescent wrench for on a car when there are better options. Also, unless you're dealing with lots of different vehicles, you don't need many...

I'm familiar with PEX for water line, but didn't think it could withstand high pressure. Wow, you're running 150 PSI with no blowouts; definitely learned something new today. Makes for a neater install than an air hose between compressor and reel. The outside use is sprinkler and dripline...

This is a bit over my head, to be honest. I can wrap my head around a union, and that seems like it would solve the problem with my current configuration.

I need to use the compressor outside of the garage a couple of times per year, so I'd want to keep the regulator on the compressor. @Beerhippie what is that red line from your compressor to the wall mounted regulator? And why did you use that instead of an air hose?

I should have mentioned it, but frankly, I forgot about it since this was set up several years ago. Yes, you are correct - I added that extra fitting so the regulator clears the tank when turning to install it. I'm not familiar with unions, but not having to turn the regulator to install it...

I'm using a 3/8" regulator because I'm using a Milton V high flow coupler (and high flow fittings on main hose, and on tools that benefit from high flow). But I've never been happy with this plumbing because the end of the coupler sticks out 6" from the tank, which makes it vulnerable to getting...

My current setup with 1/4" high flow fittings and 3/8" hose is used for sprinkler blowout. I could live with 1/4" regular flow for most other things, so I could use a hose reel, and use the 3/8" hose with high flow fittings for sprinkler blowout. But, if I could get high flow through the hose...

After doing a garage reorg I was able to find a spot along the wall for my compressor. Now that it's out of the way and only needs to be moved a couple of times per year, I'm considering getting a reel. Seems like there are good deals to be had on used reels on FB and CL. I'd prefer manual to...

Happen to have a picture of your DIY trolleys? I do have a drill press. I was thinking something like this: Maybe some steel sheet (1/8" thick) instead of door hinges. Good to know, thanks.

Thanks for the link. So it looks like my concern about the force shearing/breaking through 3-4" of plywood above the bolt is only relevant for loads much greater than what most DIY'ers would store on their garage shelves. But good point about the tilting and how that would wear the hole. I...

His build was inspired by a similar build that used strut channel and trolleys. He specifically avoided going down that road to stay within a tighter budget. Strut channel is cheap enough, but trolleys add up quickly, especially if using 4 trolleys per shelving unit.

The appeal is the greater storage density compared to shelving units placed against a wall. If you don't need the greater storage density, shelves against the wall is superior, no doubt.