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The same reason I am looking to do it. For the same quality, it's much cheaper. The only reason you would manufacture here now, is ease of communication, and to get the sticker that is so near and dear to people (which really means nothing these days).

I ordered in 2 bags of Rapid Set Tru Flow topping mix so we will see how that works! Hopefully I can get 1/8-1/4 out of 2 bags. Stuff is pricey (not as pricey as the primer though!)

I meant I have 3.5" of leeway, my mistake if I said too deep by 3.5". I'm shooting for 1/2"

Well, brother in law. I can't piss him off too much. (And by concrete buddy, I meant guy who works with concrete. Not a buddy made out of concrete!) So anyways, couple quickies! He just looked and said, "Yeah, try some self leveling. I've never used it for this type of application though!"...

Instructions? hahahha! Full contact would be nice, but I'm not too concerned about an 1/8 here and there. I can see where the rollers are putting pressure on the floor (And 1 point load at the rear). I'm an engineer, not a stone mason! :D Having my concrete buddy come over here and see what...

Thanks guys. Yes the TDS specify the compression strength at different thicknesses. Not too worried about that. It's not cosmetic, since there is a lip around some of the edge (Where the concrete didn't make it 'up' high enough under the form). Maybeeee 1/4" at the highest. Bought a diamond...

Which brand did you try?

What do you mean exactly by "Floor on top level enough to match"? I would be mixing 2-3 bags and pouring. Yes they do seem rather pricey! Maybe I'll just grind? hah

Well I found some self leveling that is 4000-5000psi (or around that) so it shouldn't have a problem with strength. brownbag: I want to avoid that since I can't level and trowel worth a ****.

Not worth it eh? I think the 1/2" difference is spread out over the entire 6' width, so I don't think leveling the bases will be needed. My only concern is it didn't go as shallow as I would have liked, so at 12.5", I'm losing about 3.5" of lifting height. Maybe I'll grind it and see where I'm...

So I finally poured the pit for my scissor lifts. While not perfect, happy with the way it came out for one pour. Unfortunately around the edges where the bottom of the forms were, it's not completely level. Sometimes the concrete went under the boards, sometimes not enough, so sometimes there...

Hah! Well I'm doing the ceiling, electrical, walls, etc. There is bound to be ****. No I haven't cleaned the lift yet but I will. lol So my lift CAN go down to about 9.5-10".. But you guys went with 12.5"ish (Different manufacturers I'm sure, etc). I think my manual says 12.20 when it's...

Yes I actually just read it in the greg Smith manual as well (Although mine is some Feng Shui scissor lift straight outta china). But reading the 'manual' for mine, and the greg smith, my manual says 12.5" depth and his says 13".. So maybe I should just cut out some of my headroom (I only have...

Has anyone installed these in their absolute LOWEST position? Mine appears to shrink down to about 10' when all the stops are lowered and the scissors are resting on 'themselves'. I'm just afraid that since the ram is almost horizontal at this point, there will be much greater forces on it...

I'll grab some pics tonight when I get home. Yes new drums (400-54 as mentioned) and springs. I'm not too concerned with the springback at the moment, more so the cable taughtness. I can deal with the spring issue later (Although they were calculated, so they should be correct!)

I will grab some pics when I get a second. Cables are the same length, because they started life as 12', and I cut the ends off, inserted them into the 400-54 style drums, and tightened them down . I believe adding 33" of track, and 33" of high lift IS the same thing in this instance, no...

Agree with sberry. Obviously there is nothing wrong with testing, but a 2 post lift isn't exactly considered a high stress application. This is very similar to the standard Car forum discussion of "You need grade 8 bolts for that windshield wiper arm". Don't get me wrong, better safe than sorry...

Everything seems square at the bottom! I haven't checked the horizontal tracks yet though. (Honestly, I'm an engineer and I've been defeated by a garage door so far. hah)

Thanks for all the responses guys! As it is wound now, it takes a lot of my (rather light) frame to hold it down! Which isn't a concern at the moment, we'll see how the opener handles it. It does balance in the center, but yes, it lifts itself quite strongly off the ground, stops about 3/4 up...

Like when they are guests in your house? They change your thermostat? You sound like a great host!