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Isn,t this garage journal you need one of each (flip top, roller with wood top and a slide top). You also need a separate cart to put greasy and oily things on so it’s not on your tool cart.

I understand the OCD of wanting it perfect but honestly if you actually use it you will inevitably make new divots. If it functions I vote for just use it

Well every box is a give and take. Yeah you can’t use the top for a work space but you also lose the screw driver and prybar storage in the top til. Not to mention if you store your box next to anything you can’t open the top without pulling the box away from it.

flip top with a flip out side tray.

I have two arbogas one with a Wilton label and one with a jet label A2608. Wanted the power downfeed version but don’t drill enough holes as a hobbiest to warrant it. This is an older picture they both have vfds now

Lol I actually went this route with my clausing 20. Ended up selling that for my Wilton/arboga gear head. Takes up a lot less space and has the same capacity. OP to bad we are on opposite sides of the country I actually have a spare Wilton/arboga and a spare clausing 15 VS.

I believe the newer powermatics like the PM2800B are imports more suited for wood. Sounds like the OP should probably skip the DP and go for a milling machine.

It’s a C1 based off the model number

You can absolutely use a full-size router to flush trim Formica and if I had to only have one router it would be my 1617. But generally this project would be handled by a palm router like the Colt. Either way you are going to run a flush cut bit with a guide bearing

How thick is the material? If it’s just Formica with no backer I would lean towards a palm router like the Bosch Colt. If it has a mdf backer you may want to look for something bigger like a Bosch 1617. I personally like Bosch routers if you couldn’t tell.

Yes exactly what I was thinking. Have a set of SAE and Metric that have gotten me out of plenty of jams. Put the die behind the bad spot and thread it off with a socket or even an adjustable wrench

Haven’t had a chance to take it apart yet. I imagine it has a circuit after the first trigger to interrupt the second trigger and require a reset if you let off either trigger. Just trying to see if anyone has already figured it out before I dive in

I got a great deal on this bandsaw but can’t stand the 2 switch safety. Has anyone found a bypass for this. Before anyone says it you can not just Ty wrap one of the switches. In order to reset both switches have to be released then the trigger pulled first followed by the safety on the...

Did I miss that part of the video

Wonder if this was the USA version or the made in Taiwan version lol. I’d be interested in a 4/4.5 jaw width max open of 6ish. And could fit on a normal work bench.

Very impressive just wish he would make a 1/2 scale USA version I would buy it in a second

You can always buy the snap-on 7 piece sae set then the Williams/blue point 3 piece large set. Also snap-on have the larger wrenches in zero offset non reversible never understood why they don’t make the reversibles in the larger sizes

In Jason’s torture test video the forged Heurer started to deform ie making is unusable about the same point the cast vises failed.

That’s a beautiful starrett I’ve had my eye out for one of those for years

I have the Murray set as well and it has got me out of a few jams. JME is another company that makes split dies.