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Looking good Dan. :thumbup: The eaves are above the ceiling in your application, right? If the answer is yes, then you should not need to do anything to them...

Focus Finn because once again, you miss the point. Just sitting there... no load at all on the 2 post lift, just two columns sitting there, doesn't even need anchors at this point. The wedge style anchors are applying a load into the concrete. The epoxy anchors aren't. The wedge, when you...

And that is what is being discussed. The wedge loads the concrete, the epoxy anchor doesn't. The anchor to anchor spacing is close. So if the user wants to minimize the loading on the concrete, use the epoxy anchor.

FEA and Free body diagrams aren't needed, you're simply being argumentative. Without any load applied via the 2 post lift, the anchor itself exerts high loads into the concrete due to the "wedge" design it uses to prevent itself from slipping out of the concrete. The epoxy anchor does not...

I've got the original version... a Rotary, and the base plate on that Atlas appears thinner to me from that photo? Perhaps that's the reason for the extra anchors... thin base plates?

Typical mechanical anchors apply outward loads on the concrete when you tighten them down, that's how they hold onto the concrete, outward force. So they load the concrete just sitting there with no load at all on the lift. Epoxy anchors apply zero load to the concrete, if there is no load on...

Obviously the folks saying "It can't be done" or "tear it down and start over" didn't watch the video Captain Spaulding posted above.

You're wanting to place the metal building insulation outside the barn framing, right? Does your barn have bookshelf girts.. or regular vertical girts? Keep in mind that once the insulation is smashed flat (like at every girt and column) it's R factor drops down to almost zero.

More wood lathe projects. Built some model rocket stands.

Looks like they are doing a good job!

5 posts for 1 comment... geeze.... 32,000 posts... turn the page.

Rotary. Call them, tell them what you are after. Some of their lifts are made right there in Madison Indiana. They'll tell you which ones. https://rotarylift.com/videos/raised-in-madison-two-post/

Bummer. If you wanted more insulation than the bubble foil you'd have been better off to not have the bubble foil installed at all. Then have either spray foam applied to the underside of the new roofing, or installed the batts. Then moisture could have escaped via the ribs in the metal...

I've built 2.. first one was in the mid 1980's.. 2nd one was in the late 1990's.

Any "good reason" why they didn't haul off the sod?

Pick a lift... and follow their instructions. :thumbup: But equally as important is how the sub-grade is prepared and compacted. The old adage about a good house on a bad foundation applies here. Here's what I did... go to thread 124...

I always grab the lift arm and push/pull it before it engages the frame, just to be sure it is locked. I'd be concerned if they didn't lock.

The same thing could be done with wooden trusses. Basically make a 3 ply truss by building new trusses on each side of the existing truss. Then use purlins that span the space between the trusses. But I gotta ask... why not simply install the lift such that the vehicle lifts up between the...

What's the distance between the existing trusses?

Yeah... that's for a traditional stick framed wall. Additionally, that won't work for just a short section of roof unless a king post truss is used on both ends of the open area. And those two king post trusses need support on their ends via posts.