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My advice is to get out some graph paper and sketch it out based on what you want to store in it, and what you want to do in it. That will lead you to what is best for you :thumbup: That's what I did and lead us to adding 4 ft to the building length so we could add another door....

With a 4-12 pitch roof... scissor trusses won't help much at all.. plus they try to push the walls outward. What's the roof construction? Plywood w/ shingles or steel roofing panels? Why steel trusses? You could likely go with double or triple ply wood trusses. BUT Ideally the location of...

Let's think about your bounce test. You're point loading the floor (where your foot / feet lands on the floor). The sheathing spreads that load across multiple joists. Depending on how far apart the joists are spaced, the blocking helps reduce the span the sheathing covers. The reduction in...

Some are press formed and some are spun from plate on custom machines. Some of the really big heads are welded together. Check out this video: http://brightontruedge.com/

I designed ASME Section VIII Div. 1 pressure vessels from 1981 until 4 years ago. During that time period there was no ASME requirement placed on the Manufacturers to specify an expiration date on a pressure vessel. Manufacturers create a Data Report, it specifies the minimal vessel wall...

Teaching An Old Dog A New Trick... Since September I've been using the mirrors on our new Ranger pickup to back into the garage. That works but occasionally when I get out of the truck, when the drivers door is wide open, the door touches the wall if I don't get the truck centered up just...

Put some Gorilla Tape on the floor... Our '19 Ranger is our 1st vehicle with a back-up camera.. kind of like landing a plane, but in reverse. :thumbup:

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I'd suggest using concrete dobies to locate the wire mesh. They have wire ties to hold them in place. Also, the wire mesh sheets should be overlapped and then tied together using re-bar wire. If you use sheets of 6 x 6-W2.9 x W2.9 wire mesh, and 3 inch tall dobies, the workers can walk on it...

After you load the photo's like you have been doing, drag the file up into the text. Then put behind the file name. Then the photo will look like this

T1-11 gets a bad name, because 9 out of 10 installations aren't done correctly and or it is not maintained correctly. Our home was built with it in 1978. It's still great. I go around and touch up the paint on a yearly basis, focusing on seams and the ends of the sheathing. The key is to...

But the number of trusses has nothing to do, in this case, with the steel blowing off of the roof. The steel attaches to the purlins.. the steel does not attach to the trusses. The largest truss to truss spacing on my barn is 12 feet... double trusses... designed for 116 mph winds.

I think you've identified the problem. The roofing steel should have been attached to every purlin. As a ref. see below for number of screws per sheet. Tell the contractor you want a copy of the drawings. The only way you will know if the barn is built to spec. is to have a copy of the drawing.

I have a Rotary SPOA10 2post lift. At my last shop the bay where I put the lift, the walls were 14 ft apart and the left post was only about a foot from the wall. Ideal, not at all. But it was still workable. In my new barn, the walls are 19 ft apart and the lift is centered side to side...

Take out all the guess work and buy a moisture meter... Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V6I840/?tag=atomicindus08-20 More here: https://www.firewood-for-life.com/firewood-moisture-meter.html

I'll be out in "The Barn"... I just love being able to say that.

What is the sub-grade and was it compacted properly and tested? If the answer is no then don't support the mezzanine off the slab. Make Isolated Footings for each support post. :thumbup:

What you do depends on a couple factors: What is your location? Does the slab extend out past the sill plate? Is the slab up high enough such that the siding will extend down over the slab, yet the siding will be high enough to ensure water won't get behind it...

Sure, lot's of folks use them. That's where good - better - best comes into play. Folks need to be aware that bolting 2-bys to either side of the posts generally won't comply with building codes without an engineer's stamped drawing.

Good-Better-Best Curious where you got your information for building the structure? Bolting headers to the sides of posts :headscrat? Probably to late for your deck, but in case others are viewing this thread here's a great link to decking structure design and construction...