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That's what I'm going to do at this point. :thumbup: Thank you all for your advice. :beer: This kind of stuff really puts me in a bad spot. I'm an electronics tech by trade. Everything I work with is DC and controller circuits. People I work with think electrical is all the same and ask me...

Sorry these are a little unclear, he sent them via text.

Sorry that was confusing, after I re-read it, it doesn't sound right to me either. He is adding the sub panel to the garage. That's what got us talking about his electrical supply. He showed me pictures of his current service, and I'm unsure if this is right, or if he should even be thinking...

I have a co-worker who is adding a sub panel to a large unattached garage. He currently has a Eaton BAH 25k breaker installed below the meter acting as a disconnect. The Meter is a fair distance from the house. Now the question. Should the panel in the house be treated as a sub and have...

I feel a little bad saying this, but I'm glad I'm not the only "lucky" one. Thanks for the link.

That's word-for-word was the tech told me. Thanks for making me feel good and fuzzy about it. On a side note, the new manager of the HVAC company has always treated me right. I guess I just needed someone to remove the 1% of doubt.

Tech claimed compressor manufacturer was using a rust inhibitor that reacts with 410-a and flakes inside system. Inhibitor no longer being used. This flaking blocks expansion valve. He added some kind of additive to break this up. I'm still under warranty for a few more months, so the service...

Compressor motor is humming. If it makes any sense, (and something I'm more familiar with) it reminds me of a pump in a hydraulic system "dead heading"... i.e. pressure on both sides. Shutting the compressor down resolves the issue fairly quickly, but it also returns quickly. The only way to...

I'm well aware it's time to call someone, I just want some advice on what's going on so I don't end up paying for things I don't need to. Problem; Trane A/C less than 2 years old. Compressor runs for an hour or so, Cools OK. After a while I get a loud humming noise and it stops cooling...

While the dryer is gas now, and 120v would be fine for now, if we ever need/have to run a electric dryer I would need to be at 240v on this panel. Better build it right the first time.

I knew that. :thumbup: Thanks what I didn't. Thank You

Looks like I'll be doing a little sheetrock repair too. Thank you for the insight and help.

I guess I should have clarified. This is an older house and the original panel was 220v. It has 2 hots and a neutral. The wiring into the panel is #2. Only thing lacking is a legitimate ground.

I'm in the process of remodeling my basement. I have an unused panel downstairs that only has 3 leads into it. I plan on installing a 100 amp sub in it's place. The original panel was 100 amp for a dryer and A/C that is no longer used. My question to the electrical geniuses that frequent this...

I guess I was unaware that I was only allowed to offer help/advice/suggestions/opinions to one person per page. My mistake, thanks for correcting me. But if you read my entire response, I did say the "IC" type fixtures might have a zero side tolerance, and might work for the available truss...

Well, Stuart in MN, I must have read this wrong then.

I personally would go with 2 bulb fixtures for more even light distribution, and less shadowing. I also would put 4 fixtures on one switch and 4 on a second. That way if you are just running in to grab something quick, you are not starting all the lights. Saves electricity, and makes the lights...

Recessed fixtures must be UL "IC" rated for direct Insulation Contact. Most recessed troffers are not "IC" rated. "IC" fixtures are special fixtures. However, I have seen the practice of covering non-IC lights done before. The top of the light doesn't really get that hot so I don't think it...

It currently has a 15 ft. torch lead. Anything smaller than .030 will bind. I have debated about a spool gun, But by the time I buy the adapter kit and the gun itself, I'd be better off buying a second welder for the thin stuff.

True, but the amount of spatter flux core leaves behind is a pain. I would rather spend the time prepping the joint than the time it takes to clean the surface later. Of course that also depends on what you're working on. if it's not a high visibility piece then it doesn't matter. I wish I...