Search results

MD. Posts weren't sleeved, but I did put XPS foam board around the perimeter of the building to separate the wood from the slab. Great idea. Definitely will do that.

I'm trying to not have anything solid up against the floor because I'm worried about it moving when the ground starts freezing. I think I read somewhere that when you do that it's going to want to lift the poles up out of the ground.

I think I'm going to set it 1.5" off the floor and then use some rubber baseboard stuff to cover the gap. Waterproof and flexible.

So I have a pole barn with a concrete floor. When I'm installing wall panels (osb or metal) should there be a gap between the floor and the panels? I'm thinking yes, because the floor is just a slab on grade and will behave differently than the posts buried below frost line. Thoughts?

Perfect timing on this thread. I just got attacked by a cricket the size of a honda civic this morning and I've been contemplating revenge. Fogger it is.

Is that supposed to be a laminated post? Looks almost homemade.

No, neither side is attached to a post. The two vertical boards look like they're just attached to the girts and the bottom 2x8 grade board. They don't go all the way up to the ceiling.

Ok sounds like the consensus is that the door needs to come out. What should I do about the framing? Can I just remove the part of the untreated lumber that's currently below grade and then reinstall the door with the threshold sitting directly on the new concrete?

I'm getting ready for concrete in my barn and one thing I keep coming back to is how the walk in door is installed. I'm worried that the untreated 2x6 lumber isn't going to last long if I pour concrete around it. Can you all take a look at the pictures below and let me know if there is a better...

They do make converters but I don't think you want to spend the $ for one that can run an AC.

I agree. We must sjflauflskdfbs,fsgs the sjflauflskdfbs,fsgs!

Call your local garage door guy or 3 and get estimates. Doors that size are commercial not residential. My 20x12 r20 insulated door will probably cost around 4k installed.

So I'm trying to figure out the best way to install a metal ceiling and blow in my insulation. Problem I keep running into is my trusses are 4:12 pitch and 4' OC so there is very little room up there. Is it even going to be possible to move around up there with the blower hose after the metal...

Some people live to be offended so whatever you do you'll find someone who isn't cool with it. I would put the US flag up by the ceiling and everything else under it.

I just did the math for my ceiling a couple of days ago and the blown in R45 + metal came out to around 2.5lb psf. That's what i'm doing with my 48" oc 5lb psf trusses. Hopefully I don't end up on the news.

The opening is 20'x12'. Yeah I was thinking about where the water is supposed to go and not coming up with too many options other than the middle or the sides. I can live with that as long as the wood doesn't rot under that trim.

Thank you lakeroadster! I was having a hard time picturing that in my head. Now I know what to look for when he tells me what he's going to do about it.

Called the guy who built it and he's supposed to come out and look at it. I think his kid did that part of the job and he just missed the trim piece.

Only had it built around 10 months ago and no insulation yet. Figured i better deal with it now before there is a door or anything else in the way.

Whenever it rains I see water dripping out of this trim joint on top of the door opening. Is there a piece of trim missing thats allowing the water to get in there?