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I have pics indicating one way of insulating trusses. It kinda depends on the size of the trusses. Bottom line is you need free air flow from soffit to ridge with fiberglass. Or you could spray the underside of the roof sheathing with spray foam, and seal it up completely.

First thing I would do is put some plastic on the ceiling. Second put some insulation up there. Third drywall the ceiling, even if you don't mud and tape it. Then use a heat source. The heat will just go straight up and not do much good unless you close in the space. You could probably do all...

I heard on another site that there is a timeout related to spammers and thats what boots ya.

Yep, red rosin paper does wonders to keep the floor clean :thumbup: Maybe some Goof Off or just regular paint stripper. You could also try a wire brush in an angle grinder or a drill. That would make it go quicker. Just gotta be careful not to leave big swirl patches.

Why??? One word SPAM and email crawlers

I put steel siding on my ceiling, everybody loves it so far. Gives it a distinctive look.

I have 3/4" copper visible in some pics, feel free to browse.

You just had to say something didn't you. I was doing just fine till the thread after I read this one. Guess what happened...timed out and it's sluggish now. :lol:

Use the wire nuts like the pic, and make sure to twist until the wires themselves are actually twisted together a bit. That way it can't pull apart easy.

I definitely recommend hardwiring...gives you future proof ability and much better signal transfer for the "educational materials" or whatever you need to look up. Be sure to pull one or two extra runs of Cat 6 or 5e just because you might find a use for them later. Like a security sensor or a...

I would agree with the insulation in the trusses. That will make the biggest difference. I have also heard great things about that foil stuff put on the underside of the roof sheathing. Gotta get rid of the heat source for starters then you can move on to the other good ideas that were mentioned.

Especially for longer runs make sure to upsize your supply line. I would suggest at least 1/2" pipe.

Well one thing I have learned over the years...just because someone does it...don't make it right. Like PVC pipe for airlines(a whole different conversation). But your right in the south you would likely have less condensation issues. But I do know some coldspells get you down in the 20-30...

Just make sure you don't put fiberglass directly against the inside of the steel. It will wick the condensation and mold.

Or just walk around all day with a mask on. Only take it off for a shower. Just tell people you have a contagious disease and it's for their safety. They will be very thankful :bounce:

Goof Off will probably work if the paint is fresh. Just be careful not to rub the aluminum itself, if possible.

Wow looks similar to my build. I have to say, the drywall has been the worst aspect so far.

Well I have to say I haven't really had much of an issue with neighbors since I completed the exterior. But I have had all my ducks in a row. So for now it's all good. I think they may have realized that their silly little games are no good. The little old ladies huh. Hmm I gotta think about...

Grab a shovel and dig down along one wall to see what's there to work with. Regardless the dirt will have to be dug out a bit and replaced with gravel or some other sub base. Then contact some local concrete contractors and have em look at it and give you options and a quote.

I think every tank that I have ever seen had a pipe bushing at the outlet. Could you just change the bushing to a 3/4" or 1/2"? My new compressor had a 2" bushing that reduced to 1/2" so I just went to my local plumbing supply and purchased a 2" to 3/4" bushing for about $3.50 and went through...