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I have seen a lot of 2 post lifts saying 12' posts, so to stand them up you need a bit more. There are lifts available shorter, but I would recommend going taller, or using different trusses. I have 10' walls with parallel chord trusses giving me about 13' 6" at the center.

Just don't tell your inspector :thumbup:

Most Home improvement stores have nice little access panels normally near the plumbing dept. Generally a couple different sizes. They are just a plastic trim ring and a panel that snaps inside of it. Cut your hole in the drywall and put the panel in. The plastic can be painted to match the wall...

Welcome aboard, browse around. Make lists and notes of what you see, like and want. Then it will be easier to plan as you build.

At full insulation, you should be using about a 70-80k Btu max. Spend the money insulating the ceiling at a minimum. Then you will retain at least some of the heat. If that is completely out of the question staple up some 6 mil plastic, you will likely need it up there anyway for any finishing...

Where did you find that intercooler with 3/4" threads on it? That looks like a viable option for many depending on cost. I have seen smaller units with 3/8 or 1/2" threads, but nothing like that.

Another whiteboard idea is to use a piece of white gloss laminate. Can be cut to size and contact glued to almost anything. Use regular dry erase markers.

I used white steel siding, pics are available in the link below in my Sig.

Here you can see the weatherstripping.

OOOh I wanna add to the confusion. Or try to clarify, I guess it's an individual opinion. Wired connections are almost always simpler and more stable. Use it if at all possible. Run a Cat cable to any location you desire access. Other clarifications As corrected, you want one modem, Coax is...

I think it's the same as mine basically. I just ran the feed to the switch first then continued down to the pump. But essentially it's the same. You could put a meter on the switch and see if it's normally closed, then opens when triggered. There's probably just two contacts on the limit switch...

Hope you didn't pay him yet. I would argue with him a bit. A safety device that shipped with the lift should have been installed. It's been a while, but if I recall my lift switch was wired in line with one side of the Line from the feed to the motor box. So the limit switch basically...

Yep I would make sure to ground it. Weather makes all kinds of problems when metal objects are outside and connected to electronic equipment. I would think you could tie it in to almost any ground, depending on the location of the antenna. I'm sure a ground rod would work, or connect to an...

Yep try a different\new outlet then a breaker. Narrow down your variables. What else is on that circuit? Could be overloaded. Check to see if it's on a GFI, I have heard rumors of high loads not working properly on GFI's. My money is on the breaker or an overloaded circuit. Check the easy stuff...

I'm no expert...but it needs to be pulled and replaced properly. Pull a pull rope when you pull the old stuff out. Worst case use a string attached to a plastic bag and use a vacuum. Then pull a rope etc, then pull your wire, use some wire lube for good measure. If the conduit was sized near...

I got a tour of a small owner setup motorcycle shop. I seen pvc airline running on the floor at the base of the walls to each of the machines. His reply to my questioning of the PVC. "Yea I know...but I thought I would try it, and it's working fine, it's only temporary."

My house is a ranch and about 60 years old. There is a mix of conduit and bx(metal flex). It's all 12ga wire and had no grounds. All it needed was some ground pigtails in the boxes and new outlets and switches. I installed gfi's and separated some of the circuits.

I prefer the Porter Cable or the Hitachi newer green and black model framing nailers. They seem to be very powerful minimal recoil on shots and toenail very well. They also handle cold temps very well which is hard on nailers. The Senco I had exploded its guts in the cold.

Yes, you have too options, vented attic or sealed and sprayfoamed. If you just have 2x4 rafters, then using the 2x2 method will work for you. I was under the impression you had regular trusses. A cupola could probably eliminate the ridge vent. But you also need the whole length of the roof to...

Sorry I should have been more clear. I have pics in my shop thread Here Scroll down to the ceiling pics and you can see the upper layer insulation running perpendicular to the trusses woven through the chords, then a second layer between them stapled to the bottom chords. I have an R38 up there...