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SER in the attic. You don't need conduit, but you do need to protect it if it is close to an access or runs through an accessible area. You need something rated for wet conditions between house and garage, you can use XHHW for that. You want a lot of current a long way from the main breaker...

PoorOwner, Thanks for asking all these questions. You're just ahead of me and by reading your threads I'm learning what I need to know just in time. Thanks also to those responding. Garage Journal is a great resource because of people like you! -- Carl :beer:

Given everything else wrong with that picture, it's probably a left handed dry wall screw...

... and brace the load bearing wall, and move the plumbing inside it, and temporarily relocate the electrical panel for that end of the house, and... :)

Might be worth checking with Wire and Cable Your Way to see if they ever deal with the Southwire product you were originally looking at from Home Depot. Maybe they do sometimes, maybe they do all the time but it's just not posted on the site...

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I love this forum because when I ask a question I often find out the more important question I should have been asking all along! The longer term plan is to enclose this area, but until that happens it will see rain. Actually, it's been seeing a lot of rain...

Good catch, rookie mistake, sigh... got to read all the columns! Would pulling individual conductors help? Once I transition from SER in the attic I'm going to individual XHHW conductors in conduit for the run down the side of the building and underground to the detached garage. My run is only...

These guys did better than HD for me: Wire and Cable Your Way I don't see the MHF you're looking for listed, maybe just a Southwire product? They do list 4/0-4/0-4/0-2/0 AL MHF for $1.54 a foot. How about upgrading size, getting it by the foot, and cheaper than HD all at the same time? :)...

I've got a spot where the metal siding on my detached garage is trimmed back for a walkway/steps between it and the house. I want to do something to seal the joint between the trimmed part of the siding and the walkway underneath it. Goal is to keep debris out of the joint and prevent water...

Code reference: Caddyshack Baby Ruth

If you kill the main breaker in the shop does the house stay on or go off? If it stays on you will have to pull the meter to power the house. -- Carl

Yep, that's what I want to do. I got out the multimeter and found continuity between hot/black and neutral/white. Time to do some crimping!

Thanks to all for their contributions, I learned something new. Here are a couple pictures. Hot and neutral each feed the switch and one side of the light circuit. To rewire it to switch hot on both sides I'm thinking I need to tie all the neutrals together, then come up with a way to split...

I really like my light, but sometimes there's not a convenient ferrous surface nearby. I've found that sticking it to a piece of steel bar stock is really handy for those situations. I'm using a 6" length of 2"x1/4" and it makes a nice stable base. -- Carl

I've got a Delta drill press. I've had to replace the on/off switch about every 10 years. This is a 120V machine. Last time I replaced it I noticed that two conductors are being switched. Why is that? If I had a light bulb I would switch the hot to turn it on and off. What's different about a...

Following this thread I learned that Ufer grounds seem like a great idea, and some places even require them for new construction. I haven't seen any discussion of them in central Florida and I was wondering why; this is the lightning capital of the US so it seems like we'd be all over another...

Thanks for the references, lakeroadster. I guess in central Florida this is an area of building code where goals conflict, and you have to weigh the probabilities and costs of each. While lightning might test the grounding of your structure at some point in its life, termites are definitely...

Exactly. We have a couple garage slabs with 24" thickened edges and there is vapor barrier under all of it. The only place with concrete to earth contact is where you back fill around the sides after the forms come off. This caught my eye because if any place could use more grounding options...

Ok, I see. Vapor barrier goes under everything here to prevent rain dilution of the termite treatment until the pour takes place. Seems like that requirement rules out use of an Ufer in central Florida. -- Carl

When slabs are poured in central Florida they are required to have a vapor barrier under them. Does a vapor barrier reduce Ufer capability? Those of you in areas that require Ufers, is a vapor barrier required under the slab? -- Carl