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Any of you have a sheet of steel for a work bench top? If so, how do you like it? I sold my brothers tractor for him this weekend and I came home to a 5’x10’ x1/2” sheet of steel waiting on me. 1100 pounds of it. I’m almost done with my new garage and had been talking about putting steel down...

I don’t know how you guys deal with all the permits and inspections. We live in a small town of 200 or less, when I want to build something then I just build it. The tax assessor will find it soon enough. But we have no permits or engineering, inspections etc. the only thing in our area that...

Tie them together under concrete and exit the foundation with 4in sch 40 pvc. Make sure you put a floor drain in too. You don't have to run your waterline yet, but at least put a thimble in for it. Later you can dig up the end and run your line though it.

I would put 60 psi of air on each loop or just on all at once, but just the loops. Then you can cross that off if test is good.

You might not have a leak until things get hot and psi goes up.

It takes awhile to get all the air out. That's why you put a air separator on these systems. Your psi going to zero at cool down sounds like a leak somewhere. That could explain the air getting in too. Are your tubes in concrete? Saw cut floors? ECT. With shark bit fittings it would be easy...

What's your initial system psi before it heats up? Is it holding psi when room temp?

Make sure your bladder on that tank isn't bad. Take your pocket knife and hit the schrader valve and see if any water comes out. If so, then you bladder is bad and you have no thermal expansion. That will cause the psi to skyrocket

Your psi should never be at zero, even if your system is at room temp. And the position of the tank doesn't matter. The air and water never touch each other in the tank, it has a rubber bladder inside. How many gallon is your expansion tank? Need to be around 5 gallon tank.

How many btu is that boiler?

You need a check valve in the loop going go to upstairs zone. Even with that zone not calling for heat, the hot water is still moving through it because nothing is stopping it. I had this happen on a boiler job many years ago. When part of the house was on then the 2nd floor baseboards where...

It will work, just insulate the slab from the concrete to keep the concert from sucking the heat out. I would put 2x4 on edge and put 2in foam on concrete. Like the previous post said, temps will be different then tubes in the concrete. 180 max under wood and 125 max in concrete.

I can see it being air tight inside when they use plastic on the face of the girts before they cover the inside walls. But inside the walls air is moving like crazy. When metal is put up on the girts there is leaks from every seam, top trim, bottom trim ECT. that kills the r value. What's left...

Plywood and house wrap stops the air infiltration. Steel siding over girts leaks air bad. There is noway to stop it unless you spray foam the backside if the metal

Yes, I'm not a fan on having to pump a sewer but it these cases it's the only choice. Insurance company will only pay out so many times for the same problem plus it's absolutely disgusting to have your basement full of the neighborhood sewer.

A septic system is not sized per bathroom, they are sized per bedroom

Vent to atmosphere, as long as you keep vent going uphill your good. 22.5, 45,60,90’s it don’t matter on a vent.

Here's a fix...... find your outgoing sewer line. Dig down and cut a ten foot section out. Install 5ft diameter concrete tile starting 3ft below for sewer line up to a foot above ground level. Run the gravity sewer line from your house into tile . On the out going side you will run the sewer...

Sure, but they are typically only around 120 Cfm. So probably would not keep up with a long vehicle run time but would keep the air exchanging after