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Loose fitting fuses or any loose electrical connections can cause an amperage increse. Do you have access to a clamp on ampmeter to see what you are drawing? The larger motor maybe right on the thresehold of your fuse protection.

Whew. You made me crack open my books with this question roaddog. It's been a few years since I took this class. First, you will need to obtain from your N.G. provider the the BTU per cubic ft of the N.G. they supply. Second, you then need to figure your total BTU/H of all your intended...

I agree. If they are going to use two bottom plates the j nut needs to extend through both plates. I've only ever seen one bottom plate used before.

I prefer a stand if it's heavy duty enough and anchored down solidly.

How many bulbs in the T8 troffers? In my opinion it's almost impossible to have to much light. I'd just be sure to have plenty of switching capabilities with it to keep your energy costs in check.

1. Lights, and plenty of them. 2. My wifes damn ceramic kiln. (anyone wanna buy a good kiln?) 3. A ******* would be nice.

I have two of the Mitsubishi units and have never had a problem with them. One unit is at least 15 years old. The other is just two years old. I'm not familiar with the other two brands you mentioned.

I have 4 on order from Grainger this very day. The book says they are rated for 20 lbs. But as Torgue mentioned, they may have issues of sliding down on a vertical surface. I hope not because thats how I intend to use them. I'll let you know when they show up how well they work.

If you have the room in your panel for the 50 amp, that's what I would use. A little more for bigger wires now may save a lot of frustration later.

I have spent many hours working on Lanier waste oil heaters and at best would get only about a months use out of them and them would have to break them down and clean all the crud out of the combustion chamber, flue, and nozzle. With the Lanier units the nozzle cartidge had two electric heating...

Good fix. :thumbup:

I think as long as you are not using the plexiglass to support the unit you should be ok. I hope you live in a dry climate. Evaporative coolers don't help much in humid climates.

I'd say your doing all the right things. If it does work for you after replacing the cap. I'd throw an amp meter on your compressor line to see what it's drawing. If it's higher than the name plate you could be needing a new unit.

:thumbup: Works every time.:bounce:

I would think you could get an extension box (steel) that would attach to your existing box. Then come out of that with 1/2 or 3/4 inch conduit over to the other side. My own preference is to keep and cords as short as possible, so for me I would not even consider a run of S.O. cord that long...

I would think your first consideration would be to determine what resources you have at your disposal. For example, my preference in an existing garage would be to go with a gas fired forced air unit, a shop heater that hangs from the ceiling. But if you don't have a Nat. gas line going into...

I installed over 100 outdoor two bulb T8's two years ago and have never had an issue with them coming on in even the coldest weather. If you have T 12's you'll need HO ballasts and bulbs. Not cheap.

Having dealt with a lot of the T8's I have been stunned by the number of bad ballasts, right out of the box. G.E. seems to be the worst I've seen. Based on your description of what happened I would lean towards a bad ballast.

How about some enviormental curtains? They are used a lot in industry where there is a lot of traffic. I'm not sure how pricey they are though.

Well I have a simple regulator in line with a Speedaire moisture seperator on mine. The way my locks work, you don't want to use an oiler on them. That's because the vent is clear back on the lock pushbutton. I ended up with 50 foot of airline full of oil. Not sure what type of setup you have...