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With all that being said, I don't know if I would ever run a 220V line again without a third conductor for a potential neutral at least. More and more you are seeing 220 V appliances that have some type of 110 control on it that needs the 3rd conductor. Your current application may not need it...

Anyone here have one of these? http://www.dualsaw.com Is it any good?

I guess it must change with the area or the concrete provider. Everyone I have dealt with makes you take everything you order. You could ask the supplier when ordering about it.

I rented a skid steer last week and was able to get a "tooth bar" accessery. It just bolts on to your regular bucket. Can't remember what I paid extra for it but it was affordable.... or I wouldn't have gotten it.

Unless you are limited by space I always say bigger is better. You can usually get more done quicker, thus maybe save some on rental fees. I would think either unit is gonna tear up lawn since they both are in essence "skid steers", unless I'm not understanding what a bobcat is.

Drats! That looked like a nice unit for my needs. Yea, it's 51 and raining.....again right now. But we both know that won't last long.

Good advice. I would also add... wear something over your ears. I knew a guy years ago doing some overhead welding and had some slag drop in his ear and...... well you can imagine the pain and damage it caused.

Where did you get it Scramblur? I'm 40 miles north of you. What kind of media does it use?

I think Bosch tools are some of the best ones out there. I bet someone had a cheap small guage extension cord plugged into it that overheated. I'd do as nehog said. By a good quality male connector and put it on.

I removed a bunch of 400 watt MH fixtures and changed over to a 6 bulb four foot T8 fixtures over a year ago. These fixtures were bought at an electrical contractor supply house. The ballasts are G.E. all assembled in Mexico. Although I have not had a failure like the one your picture shows...

That is truly bizarre. Any chance something dripped on it from the ceiling? I am really interested to see what you turn up.

Is the 250 hp a misprint on your post, or a misread? That makes no sense to me.

Typical made in mexico gar-bage!

I recently replaced about three hundred 400 watt metal halide lamp fixtures with the 4ft 6 lamp t8 fixture. If anything the lighting improved. My only gripe is about 20% for these fixtures are for wet locations and use two 3 lamp ballasts where the regular ones use a 2 lamp ballast and a 4 lamp...

Regular solder for the air lines. I prefer tha Map Gas with the turbo torch and the auto lighter on it. For HVAC silver solder is in order and I agree with Brian, oxy-act will be the best. It needs to be plenty hot for silver solder to take.

I guess my first question would be why are they on a GFCI?

Metal Halide bulbs are notorious for being finicky. I have seen them do what you are describing at times, and other times work fine. An hour is ample time for one of these to cool down and restrike so I don't think that's the problem. The only Metal Halides I have worked with that are not so...

I hate the thought of pouring a new floor on top of the existing one. Unless they drill a bunch of holes (and I mean a whole bunch of holes) all the way through the existing floor into the gravel below it, you are not going to have an easy time getting rid of the water in the new concrete. The...

I have to agree here. I think "skinning" it with some OSB or plywood on both sides, using construction adhesive and screws would help fortify it.

I have used dimesional lumber for this before and it always ends up cracking and splitting over time. My last set I used 3/4" OSB screwed and glued together. 10" wide the bottom length was the longest and each section I cut a few inches shorter. That gives it a decent angle for your car to drive up.