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About 150ft. There is a path worn in the grass from me going back and forth.

I’m not sure there wouldn’t be a little more play on the hinge end to let them get a paw in to get the door off. I’ll get a picture tomorrow. Got chased inside when the storms rolled through this evening and the last one is hitting now.

If I was going to spend too much money, I’d at least get a toy, I mean tool, out of it!

Am considering it. Can’t get my head around brass being cheaper than plastic. Even if it’s brass plated steel.

Little steep to pay $10 for a hinge on a $15 birdhouse. I have 39 of them, though not all need replacements yet. I’ve looked online a bunch and haven’t found anything reasonably priced that claims UV resistance.

I’ve thought about that. I’m a little concerned it might make it less **** resistant.

Quick research shows Allison Steel, a window manufacturer was at 2nd and Palmer in Chester. Started by T.W. Allison. Joyce Steel occupied the building by 1951 after a lengthy vacancy.

It’s been called antifreeze-coolant for the 50+ years I’ve been working on cars. It lowers they freezing point of the mixture and raises the boiling point.

I have a bunch of bluebird houses. The doors are hinged at the bottom. It’s basically a live hinge, a two inch wide piece of plastic with a thinner section at the hinge point. Rather than being a commercial hinge, it really looks like a piece of vinyl building material adapted for the job. I...

I’d seriously consider cutting after they are set in place. It’s very hard to get a level frame on unlevel ground unless you mark a level line on posts that are in place and cut the tops off.

Not that much. We have fairly heavy soil, and builders here won’t go more than I believe 23” or 26” without a concrete wall. I‘m not sure what the cutoff is, but some will pour a retaining wall inside the skirt boards using them as one side of the form and a piece of scrap siding for the other...

Set the air pressure first. If that’s not right, they won’t work.

Build a tank with concrete blocks and a plastic tarp. Did a trailer frame that way.

It’s possible to support trusses in a way that makes them weaker. This is a question for a structural engineer.

What was done to the site from the beginning? If top soil and organic material wasn’t removed, it will decompose and settle resulting in cracking in the concrete. Gravel, like #53 or #73 is excellent leveling material. I filled 26” with #53 almost 30 years ago and the slab is still flat and solid.

Till-Guard is a handy product for a storage coating. It’s an easily removed black paint used for farm equipment like moldboards on plows. Spray or brush. I pour a bit in with the mixer running, then tilt it down to coat the drum. A couple of minutes mixing gravel and it’s gone.

I have an ancient mixer I paid $15 for ages ago. The motor was seized, and I soaked it with penetrating oil and then spun it with a big drill until it would run. Mixed many yards. Finally had to replace the motor a couple of years ago with a used one I bought on eBay. Had to buy a new pulley and...

Problem with a truck is the minimums. You get into the 40-50 bag range and you have to pay for two yards if you want it delivered, 3 times what you need. 50 bags is a big job to do by yourself, even with a mixer. I’ve lived here long enough I have slabs for everything that might need one to use...

A key issue with using desiccants is to seal the container. You can’t fight the moisture from the outdoors

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