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GGeof, thanks. Looks like they're $200 for an 11 piece set, which is a price point that's ok for me. Still not the economical choice that orig. Craftsman was, but those days are gone.

Geoff, Proto's current ratchet wrenches are reportedly made in Taiwan. (At least it's an Amer. Ally). Goat, SK's are nice, but they're $300 of nice.

I am in the market for some ratcheting Sae box wrenches. I want to go made in America, but it looks like the only place that still makes those here is Snap-on. Are there any American makers left that are a little friendlier to my wallet? Joe

Will it harm a stand alone dehumidifier to get exposed to freezing temps? I'm up in Massachusetts, and have a dehumidifier to keep moisture condensation down. I removed the dehumidifier in the Fall, to protect it from freezing, since I thought it might crack some internal lines. Is that...

I had this problem, but because I'm in New England it happens during the non-freezing months. Solved it by putting in a dehumidifier, that runs 24/7 during the Spr, Summer, Fall. A single medium dehumidifier worked for me, but my shop is small, 14x20'. Perhaps you could put in a larger...

GRiv, I was getting condensation, quite a bit. I put in a dehumidifier, and it's solved. This will help protect some vintage cycles I keep in there. Redidbull, No floor on top of the concrete. It's cycle shop, and the concrete will do. Often there's spilled oil, fuel, etc. Joe

What are the wood + concrete issues? Re vinyl cove base, I don't get condensation (anymore), because I put in a dehumidifier. I store antique motorcycles there, and the drier air helps w the rust. Joe

I'm in the northeast , and flexible cove base board isn't common at all. Do the advantages outweigh simple wood and nail? And Sinko, yes, I'm thinking of just staining it, after cutting and checking fit, then putting it up. The stain will match exterior siding. Joe

Q Sinko, Thanks for the tip re seal the edges of the trim. The slab should be impermeable, but sealing the trim is no problem. Thanks! Joe

I don't know, I've never done window and door moldings, so I don't to screw it up too much. I was going to go slightly less than the house size trim, only because the workshop has lower ceiling, it's smaller, etc. Thinking 3" or 3.5" for window trim, and 4 or 5" for baseboards. Sound...

It's got a concrete floor, so... it sounds like flush is the answer. Any tips on the wood trim around the window and doors? Joe

Building a workshop. The drywall is 1/2" off the floor, but now it's time to put in the baseboards and all the window/door trim. Should the baseboards go in flush to the floor, or off a little (1/8' or 1/4" idk?). Any other tips? Joe

My ex-wife can. She's something of a spider.

Thanks Dawg, every tip helps. Joe

Iced, I am totally with you on the eggshell. I think it's the best compromise. Cadunkle, like you, I am about doing the minimum of finish work and just getting the job done. I'm thinking one coat of mud and that's it. 56Mark, thanks for the ideas on the two one separation. I will follow...

The drywall is a shoddy job, but the labor was cheap (me!). Still, I'll put one or two coats of mud on it. I was planning on mesh tape. It's a little easier, and this isn't the Whitehouse Lincoln bedroom. Joe

Adriatic, There's another thread on interior paint color: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7848713#post7848713 I like the black paint near the welding area. Sound like a good idea to me. Joe

Thanks Mike, that sounds like it should work.

Craig, I was going to follow your suggestion, and not finish the screws and joints, but everyone on the board says to do it right and finish it. Anyone else w Craig on this, and not doing the finish work? Joe

I'm thinking eggshell is the best compromise. Probably in a very light blue. Dawg, I like your two-tone idea and I think I'll borrow it. Maybe a darker blue, 3 ft high. Any tips on keeping the seam pure, i.e. not having colors bleeding over?